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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Bpreynolds2 on November 27, 2021, 07:43:32 AM
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I just greased and replaced the upper and lower tapered bearings on my ‘03 Stone project. First time doing this kind of work on any bike and putting it all back together, even after watching vids and trying to research on here, I’m confused as to how tight I should go down on the top spanner nut? Any advice appreciated here. I first tightened them down very tight to try and set the bearing, then I backed it off but confused how tight it should be. Should I feel any resistance when turning the tree? A little resistance? None? Is it splitting hairs? Thanks.
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I tighten the stem until it just starts to bind, then back it off a tiny bit. You want smooth movement with no fore and aft looseness.
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This ^^^^ is what eye dew.
Me 2 :wink:
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As usual much thanks guys :boozing:
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None of the above I think is wrong.
But I’d not use the nut to bed the races by pulling them up “very tight”. It’s a bit cruel to brutally force the inner and outer together with that level of force.
If you freeze the inner and (perhaps) warm the housing, they should fall in. But I do appreciate the need to have them properly seated.
A simple tool can be made in the form of a long bolt and two discs, with the the bolt through the stem and the discs drawing the races together.
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None of the above I think is wrong.
But I’d not use the nut to bed the races by pulling them up “very tight”. It’s a bit cruel to brutally force the inner and outer together with that level of force.
If you freeze the inner and (perhaps) warm the housing, they should fall in. But I do appreciate the need to have them properly seated.
A simple tool can be made in the form of a long bolt and two discs, with the the bolt through the stem and the discs drawing the races together.
This is a true statement. You don't want to force the outer race into its fit applying pressure through the inner race and rollers. that will immediately destroy an otherwise good bearing. The term is called brinelling and it will leave you with a dangerous motorcycle to ride.
Use heat and freeze the parts. Like Huzo said.
Skippy
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Appreciate all the responses. I wound up doing a little of both in a way. My spanner wrench curved as such that it won’t let me get a perfect grip so I could really only go down so tight per se, then backed off to a bit of resistance.
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IIRC the nut is 35 or 36 mm. You can buy a stamped thin open end wrench (spanner) on line that fits right in there.
Nice work doing the bearing maintenance that 9 out of 10 bikes never get.
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My experience is it depends on the bike...Some like a slight preload to dampen the movement, some don't..For instance with the front wheel removed and no binding from cables or brake lines, about a two pound pull on upper fork tube to get it moving is a slight preload...A fishing scale is the measuring tool. Or the Harley type adjustment where it takes a slight push to move the forks off center and they they fall to the side on their own..
Some newer bikes have gone back to roller bearings, caged not loose...
What Rodekyll said, tapered rollers can handle stiff preloads in constant rotation ....
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I had a 2001 Roadglide and the manual had very detailed directions for adjusting the steering head. Once set properly the fully equipped bikes front end in the air, should rotate from lock to lock and settle after releasing. I can't remember exactly but it was like back and forth one and three quarters turns. Anyways I would set up with no play but no tightness either. The steering damper on your Stone can then be used if additional tension is needed for high speed driving.
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My former Audace was always a bit notchy, especially at slower speeds. I was having more and more trouble riding it as I got older and more feeble. I decided to check the steering even though it was a low mileage bike. So I pulled out the service station manual to see what it had to say. It gave a ridiculously high value to torque the nut so I set it up using the Harley method. Mucho betta.
kk
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I just greased and replaced the upper and lower tapered bearings on my ‘03 Stone project. First time doing this kind of work on any bike and putting it all back together, even after watching vids and trying to research on here, I’m confused as to how tight I should go down on the top spanner nut? Any advice appreciated here. I first tightened them down very tight to try and set the bearing, then I backed it off but confused how tight it should be. Should I feel any resistance when turning the tree? A little resistance? None? Is it splitting hairs? Thanks.
If it was my Stone and I had no specs….
-Gradually torque lower spanner to 20-25 lbft
-Back off lower spanner ¼ to ½ turn
-Torque locking spanner to 30 to 45 lbft
-Install top clamp & torque nut to 50-70 lbft
-Loosely install forks & frt wheel
-Attach a cheap fish scale to a fork leg just below the lower clamp. The amount of force to pull through lock to lock should be 3 to 5 lbs.
If the force is required is less than 3 lbs, the lower spanner needs to be snugged a bit...remember you loosened it ¼ to ½ of a turn so, to snug rotate clockwise maybe an 1/8 turn, reassemble with lock spanner & top nut and recheck for 3-5 lbs.
If the force is required is more than 5 lbs, the lower spanner needs to be loosened a bit...remember you loosened it ¼ to ½ of a turn so, to loosen, rotate counter clockwise maybe an 1/8, reassemble with lock spanner & top nut and recheck for 3-5 lbs.
IMO, the 3-5 lbs of force is more important than the overall torque of the locking spanner & top nut. Once the 3-5 lb spec is achieved, continue reassembling front end.
Good luck & hope this helps.