750 Breva and new Instrument Cluster

[1stGuzzi]

I reckon I know the answer to the main question already but thought I may as well ask.. some background first.

I've had my 2008 Breva for less than a year, so still getting to grips with the trials, tribulations and joy of it. The poor thing had been kinda neglected by previous owners but by no means the worst one that I've come across. Along with thorough cleaning (rear of engine especially), full oil service, tappets and throttle balance, I've done the starter interruptus mod. I've sourced much better condition headers, a used original windscreen and Hagon shocks. I've added cheap hand guards and heated grips, plus other odds & sods.

The bike runs great, though very slow speed handling is very disconcerting, in that it drops into corners/junctions. Anything above say, 30mph and the handling is super, for this style of bike. I'm in the process of switching out yokes/steering stem, to see if that helps - just in case there's any twist.

Prior to my ownership, there has been zero care for the type of ethanol petrol being used and the tank has small blisters and is possibly swollen/distorted. I run it on E5 (at higher expense) rather than E10, that is available in the UK. I had to move the handlebars more upright to clear the tank on the right hand side. Replacement new (CB5000) 'bars have proven it isn't bent 'bars. In any case, I have bar riser spacers on just now, which circumvents the issue. Perhaps it's related to the yokes.

When purchased, the rubbery hazard warning switch was nigh on demolished and previous owner(s) never had the gumption to cover it over, even with some Gaffer/insulating tape! Of course, water and the underlying electronics do not mix well. Although the odometer works, the switch to change to trip/temperature doesn't. A careful stripdown and cleaning with lighter fluid/WD40 hasn't helped. Toothpicks sure cleaned out a lot of corrosion but to no avail.
Yup, I could've lived with it (especially as this is my 'secondary', relatively cheap bike) but I like to have a trip meter to judge when to fill up, as I hate having to trust just a low fuel light. What if the bulb blows? My memory doesn't cope well with remembering the odometer reading from the last fill up, which might be weeks before.

I took the plunge and sourced a brand new instrument cluster, from feeBay and a seller in Germany. Was a decent price, being cheaper than a used one from Gutsibits! Now, the original clocks are sitting just above 16,000 miles (it's barely run in!), if accurate. The ideal situation would be to set the new clocks to the same/very similar mileage. I assume that this can't be done: is that the case?

 





"Archive" photo: have made a few changes since then.

[guzzisteve]

That is correct, not that I have seen at the dealers I worked at. Carmo in the Netherlands have dash software. I would think they could do what you need.

[1stGuzzi]

Carmo in the Netherlands have dash software.

"Dashboard / counter unit / instrument panel data transfer €182,50 Inc VAT" Yikes! About 3/4 the cost of buying a new cluster.
TBH, I had looked into sending the existing clocks for repair but the high cost meant total replacement seemed like a better plan. Admittedly, there's the cost of the required equipment and fixer's time but one would need to have a particular love of a unit, to justify repair costs, if/when a new one becomes available.

[faffi]

Cannot say anything about mileage, but when I did something similar, was to take a picture of the old and new instrument at the same time, the old one still attached to the bike, to document the mileage at the time of replacement.

As to the yokes - it is VERY unlikely that they are bent. However, they very well be twisted, but not structurally. Here is what I would attempt before buying any parts:
Slack off the top center yoke bolt a turn or two
Slacken the upper triple clamp/fork stanchion pinch bolts
Slacken fender/fender mounts
Slacken the wheel axle

Now, pump the fork HARD, repeatedly. Preferably without applying the brake, since the singe disc can cause the fork to end up twisted despite the pumping. Then tighten all the bolts to speck, bottom upwards until you finish off with the center yoke bolt.

Usually, this will align everything. If not (check that the wheel visually is 90 degrees to the handlebars) I would remove the front wheel and fender, put back the wheel axle (no nut, just to keep the lower legs from turning) then slacken off the upper and lower pinch bolts. Now the fork stanchions should be free to turn. As you turn them, one at the time, the lower leg should stay in position. If it seems to turn/wobble, the stanchion is likely bent. You can also turn the stanchion and lower leg together, and you will see a wobble if the stanchion is bent, but in my experience this is less sensitive than keeping the lower legs from turning.

[1stGuzzi]

As to the yokes - it is VERY unlikely that they are bent..

I have tried to realign but didn't notice any difference. No harm in trying your method(s) though. 
The paint is a bit flaky on the existing yokes and I've already resprayed the used replacements (which were a reasonable price), with the new bearings likely to arrive tomorrow.

When I first got the bike, it became obvious that it has been over on its right side at some point, most likely at a standstill. The headlight glass (plastic) has multiple scratches and a chip at the top right edge. I've had to repair the shell. The indicators were not originals and since replaced. The silencer was considerably closer to the shock than on the other side. The mirrors weren't originals (I have now got Breva 1100 ones), so they may have got busted. The levers and barends were scabby anyway and I got replacements. No sign of any other telltales but twisted out of alignment yokes *could* be a possibility.

Given the low speed tip-in mentioned above, it's gotta be worth a little effort to hopefully improve things.

[BTW I'd love a Griso but health, size and age, in that order, dictates otherwise. V50/V65 still command too much money for a second bike. With the benefit of hindsight, I may have been better getting the lightest V7 instead of a Triumph Street Twin. Choices, choices - and availability at the time.  ]

[faffi]

Usually, it takes a bit impact to bend the triple trees. But if you to replace the bearings anyway, you should easily see if they are straight or not.

From a Honda I crashed where the forks and triple trees/yokes did bend. But that was a massive hit, and they bent less than what you would expect.

[1stGuzzi]

For thread completion.
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The Breva is back in one piece and I've just added 19 miles onto the brand new clocks. If I liked the bike before, then now it's even better.

The slow speed tip-in is gone - hurrah! The culprit: dry as a bone, with rust and indents, the lower steering bearing was seriously neglected. Circa 16,000 miles is a fairly short life span and given the seal is in good condition (replaced anyway), it makes me wonder if it never got treated to grease by the factory.  Certainly, the upper bearing appears to only have had manufacturing oil on it. It was a bit of a hassle getting the bearings changed (a couple of bashed, cut & bruised fingers) but £16 (GBP) well spent, excluding the used yokes that I purchased at a good price.

I'm going to assume that the petrol (it's a liquid not a gas!  ) tank is swollen to the right, rather than any other cause for the bars getting too close to it. Highly likely given the numerous ethanol-induced paint bubbles that scar the paintwork.

Hey @faffi, if that wasn't a symmetrical dip headlight, then I'd have bought it for the Breva. ;) How the heck did that survive the prang!? (Rhetorical, as I've hopefully sourced an alternative).

[faffi]

It was a very cheap lamp from China, and I have no idea how it survived. I have seen several lamps smashed simply from the bike tipping over, and I have no idea you they could even hit the road. Perhaps the class just shatter from the shock, without no direct impact?

[sign216]

For thread completion.
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, it makes me wonder if it never got treated to grease by the factory.  Certainly, the upper bearing appears to only have had manufacturing oil on it.

If it makes you feel any better, BMWs bearings are notorious for being installed with no lube other than the thin oil from the bearing maker.

[Muzz]

For thread completion.
__________________

The Breva is back in one piece and I've just added 19 miles onto the brand new clocks. If I liked the bike before, then now it's even better.

The slow speed tip-in is gone - hurrah! The culprit: dry as a bone, with rust and indents, the lower steering bearing was seriously neglected. Circa 16,000 miles is a fairly short life span and given the seal is in good condition (replaced anyway), it makes me wonder if it never got treated to grease by the factory.  Certainly, the upper bearing appears to only have had manufacturing oil on it.

I have had my 2003 from new. Checked the steering head for grease very early on after hearing stories of Luigi and his grease pot. Basically nothing on them. Rectified smartly and have been good ever since.