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I used the existing wiring when I installed the Mosfet unit this weekend.I ran a 10ga wire from the VR to the two output wires in the harness. Same on the negative sideThis method reuses the bike's original fuseAll is well with steady voltage of 14.2 volts
Electronics don't wear out as does mechanics. Corrosion on connections would lower the voltage at the battery under operation so that's not a contributing factor. I suspect the R/R are manufactured and shipped that way.I'd be interested to see if the circuit card can be accessed and components changed to alter the output voltage. Any pictures of the rear of the OEM regulator available?
Not needed. The power loops back from the battery connection (the big red one).
I'll be replacing the Reg/Rec in my '14 v7 Special tonight with a FH020AA, using the existing wiring. I am seeing 15.2v at the battery terminals at 3k+ rpm. Will post results.
I'd be interested to see if the circuit card can be accessed and components changed to alter the output voltage. Any pictures of the rear of the OEM regulator available?
Corrosion on positive lead contact will introduce resistance to current flow. This would result in a voltage dropped across it (and great heat that could melt the plastic). There will be a drop in voltage if measured relative to ground. That means the voltage at the regulator output would be greater than at the battery. What will not happen is for the voltage at the battery to be greater than the voltage at the regulator output as a result of corrosion.
I agree Another thought: actually a suitable resistor on the +ve out from the R/R would drop the voltage BUT I think that would put strain on the stator and also lower the watts deliverer to the bikes electical system. So I dont think thats a good idea? but am i sure? no.It does seem that the body of the OEM R/R does not give a good ground. If there was a bad earth to the R/R what would happen? I think the result would be the same as a bad +ve?
So I got back from my ride on the Breva yesterday (but of course I had to stop it to use the key to lift the seat) and checked the voltages on my rather old battery.The voltage was now sitting at 13.05, up from the 12.5 obtained after a 24 hour rest. Started it and ran for a few minutes at about 2700 RPM. Voltage remained stable at around 13.7 volts. Thought it might have been slightly higher but as the charging system has never given any problems I am not too worried.A lot lower than the 15+ volts that you guys are getting.
During all the tests some are doing, are you just running the engines with the bike sitting for minutes at a time at 2500 rpms and higher? I could be wrong but if you run the engine at a few thousand RPMS for say 2-4 minutes, bike stationary, that seems like a long time to do something like that.Seems like it would be better or just easier to connect a voltmeter to the battery and tape the thing to a handlebar or tank and ride it. No doubt, someone will correct this.
A resister on the output of the R/R would not work at all, as it would still work to achieve the same voltage at the reference terminal. A resister divider on the reference terminal could be used to raise the output voltage, but, I'm not sure of a clean way to reduce it.The best thing is to just replace the VR with one that does the job properly.
Ok, checked 4 bikes today.2012 V7 Classic 21,000 miles: Idle 12.75 Revving 14.602013 V7 Special 1200 miles: Idle 13.45 Revving 14.722013 V7 Racer 4900 miles: (Rexxer Maps) Idle 12.65 Revving 14.29 2015 V7 Stone Mk2 240 miles: Idle 12.80 Revving 14.20All testing done with a harbor freight multi meter that was free with a coupon. So far I haven't found a hot one, but I'm gonna be keeping my eyes open and test everyone that comes through here.
Ok, checked 4 bikes today.2012 V7 Classic 21,000 miles: Idle 12.75 Revving 14.602013 V7 Special 1200 miles: Idle 13.45 Revving 14.722013 V7 Racer 4900 miles: (Rexxer Maps) Idle 12.65 Revving 14.29 2015 V7 Stone Mk2 240 miles: Idle 12.80 Revving 14.20All testing done with a harbor freight multi meter that was free with a coupon. So far I haven't found a hot one, but I'm gonna be keeping my eyes open and test everyone that comes through here.I used one of them to check my TPS on the old EV last year. radio shack good one said .514 the free one said .650 or so. it went into the recycle bin. just saying!
Do most of the failed ones have more miles on them? (I realize one of Jay's that tested bad is still pretty new).
Agreed. The resistor would not work well because the amount of voltage it dropped would be proportional to the current being drawn, which would vary dependant on the load. The resistor would have to be sized to the power it dissipates which is almost equal to the output of the alternator, around 300W. Have you seen the size of a 300W resistor?Hmm, Pikipiki's regulator looks to be potted. Too bad; can't access the electronics to see if the output is adjustable. The only solution is replacing the unit with one that works. The burnt wire is a result of poor conductivity due to a bad crimp connection, not due to excessive current draw. If you replace the regulator, pull the contacts from the alternator connector and solder the crimps.
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