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One additional note is that it does seem to require a warm up period (on each ride) before it will shift correctly. It's cold here though so I'll have to see how that changes as we (finally, hopefully) see warmer weather.
Also just to confirm another comment on this thread, the black Stones ship with Metzeler Lazertechs and the white Stones ship with Pirelli Sport Demons (like the Racers). Not sure why the split within the same model.
That'll improve as it breaks in.Hmmmm ???
Hey JAY - check out my clutch thread - I forget - does YOURS RATTLE like a big block or is it silent like my Stone?
Also check you clear air box drain hose. If it has oil in it either the motor had to much oil in it and the extra pumped out. Or one of the vent hose from the heads is pinched. On my bike after every decent ride the drain hose would have a couple ounces of oil in it. When looking around I four a vent hose pinched. Gave it better placement and for the last couple thousand miles no oil in the air box/drain.
I know this was asked a while ago, but just now saw it.Yes, it rattles, just not quite as loud. Also, the Breva 1100 rattles with the clutch lever pulled, where the V7's rattles with the transmission in neutral and the clutch lever released (but not when pulled).
I think that's cause there are way too many threads around here already discussing oils :DFor the record I stuck with AGIP for the motor, but bought something local for the gear oils.
No, no, no Kev. No Agip anymore. It's ENI these days. ;)
Not if you still have a case of bottles labeled AGIP... :BEER:
What weight oil goes in the motor of a 2013 V7 Stone?
Kev, did you notice that the labor times are lower for most services on the single TB units...as much as 30% lower? So, not only are the service intervals longer now but a shop visit should be less expensive.
I'll confirm that there are different tires and shocks on the white and black V7 Stones. Also that the clutch cable ships too loose.
My MAINT light came on more than a bit early (about 1500 miles early) according to the Maintenance Schedules for the 2012/2013 1TB models.http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=64986.0Not fully realizing the light was so early I pulled the bike in the shop yesterday to get the service done.I'd already changed the engine oil early because Jay had needed to steal the oil filter cover. So I figured I just needed to do valves, trans/drive oils, lube some levers/cable ends, and check various things.But to my surprise (see thread link) the 2013 maintenance schedule is a bit different from the earlier models and I may not have to do any of that yet.I went ahead with the valves anyway and found them all a bit wide (maybe 002-003" wider than spec).I also was glad I checked the spark plugs because they were WAY WIDE like 034-040" instead of 024-027" or so of the spec. MENTAL NOTE PEOPLE, check those plugs on the next service and maybe have spares at hand. I regapped them and will probably use them till the next service (as long as they don't start to miss in the meantime). But still, it's probably a good idea for me to buy a spare set now and have them handy for that reason (you all might want to do the same).EDIT - just noticed the maintenance schedule actually says to REPLACE the SPARK PLUGS every 10,000km/6000miles - I'm SHOCKED, but THAT EXPLAINS IT. Maybe I'll get a set and throw them in by 6k.I'm happy to report pulling the front cover was simple this time (thanks to replaced and/or cleaned bolts).The timing marks I made on the alternator rotor and front of the motor were PERFECT - took me seconds to align each cylinder to TDC.So life is good.I just have to decide what maintenance schedule I'm going to follow here on out.RIDE SAFE!Kev
Just bumping cause I like this photo... and cause I wanted to make sure people saw comments about valve adjustment and spark plugs.RIDE SAFE ALL
I found it strange in removing the plastic front panel to turn the engine as lock-tite was used on those bolts. Not sure why this was done since removing this place is essential to move the piston. Any thoughts on that?
Hi,I just performed my 600 mile service on my new 2013 V7 Special. I was pleased to encounter this post because there seems to be no official manuals available for this bike yet. Actually, there are manuals available at least in PDF, you need the V7C manual for much of the motor and most of the basic chassis that didn't change, then you need the new Stone/Special/Racer manual for anything that is new to the 1TB models. I forget if Greg Bender's website or Guzzitech has them yet, but one of them should.This being my first Guzzi, I was (and am) excited to do the service myself. Since the service, the bike runs better than ever. Going into the service on a brand new bike without the official information was a bit sketchy, FWIW the specs I used in this thread come from dealer techs who post here on WG. but I went with all the values listed in this thread, and like I said, the bike runs and feels even better. So I thought I'd share my experience.1. Changed all fluids as suggested in the manual. No problem there. I replaced the crush washers as they were supplied with the APIG oils provided in the kits (I ordered the change-kits from AF1 Racing). Changing the oil filter was interesting- its nice how concealed it is but somewhat messy taking out -be prepared with lots of rags and clean off the oil pan thoroughly with Simple Green and clean rags after. Also, I fashioned a funnel with a plastic tube to fill the transmission and final drives and that worked great. 2. In adjusting the valves, I went with 006 & 008 as listed in this thread. All 4 valves were tight according to the tech I was working with -so we loosened them all slightly -but to 006 & 008. There were no torque values (that I could find) for the valve covers so I did that by feel -I wish I knew those, anyone have any info on that? -that said no leaks 4 days later. I've not bothered with torque values for things like the valve cover, or oil filter cover, ask JAS67 about the later, he used the value in the book and cracked the cover - either his torque wrench is out of calibration or the value is bad. Actually, I've always found that the method of technical information distribution used by the European manufacturers leaves a lot to be desired. I.E. they write a manual for a new bike or car, then years later write a new one once they have enough differences. And that can happen multiple times. Problem is that means you have to look at multiple ones each time to know you didn't miss a change, and WORST is that IF there is a change sometimes it either doesn't get documented or you can't get your hands on the update so you don't know about it. For instance I KNOW there are torque values in my Ducati 696 manual that disagree with the owner's manual. Problem is the tech manual was written in 2009 and my bike is a 2011 and I KNOW some of the fasteners changed. So I got out of the habit long ago of trying to get torque values for things like the valve cover, oil filter cover, drain plugs etc. I just grasp the head of the ratchet and snug.I found it strange in removing the plastic front panel to turn the engine as lock-tite was used on those bolts. Not sure why this was done since removing this place is essential to move the piston. Any thoughts on that? Well, it's not ESSENTIAL to turning the motor, you CAN certainly lift it and turn the motor with the rear wheel, but I don't like that method personally and really prefer using the nut on the front of the crank. NO IDEA why they put threadlock THAT strong on those bolts. I wound up replacing two of them that bent under the force of loosening them. That said, I DON'T REMEMBER if I added threadlock to the new ones or not? almost 5k later none of them had loosened again though. Obviously there's no harm in using some blue/medium strength Loctite on them to be sure. If you didn't replace them I suspect the remnants of the old threadlock will probably keep them tight. But if you're unsure, no big deal, just check them after maybe 500 miles and 1000 miles to be sure.3. In re-torquing the heads both the tech and I were surprised on how loose they were. I don't have experience here but all the bolts were at different values so I went with 31 on the 4 main bolts and 21 on the center bolt. We felt confident as the bolts continued to tighten up but I'd say that they were all loose and some by 8# -again, a bit sketchy, I thought they all be tight or loose by 1 # or something. (I can't remember now if Pete said he usually finds them loose or tight, but I THINK I remember whatever he said, I found the opposite :BEER: not that I was worried about it).4. I adjusted the clutch. It was too close to the grip and sometimes I wasn't convinced I was disengaged even when I pinned the lever against the grip. A lot better now. That sounds familiar.
That lock-tite is there for a reason, as fasteners like to loosen up on these bikes. You should use a little blue lock-tite when putting those bolts back in. I use lock-tite on almost all fasteners on my Guzzis with the exception of any ny-lock type locknuts.
I've never actually pulled the front cover to turn the engine. I just remove the spark plugs, put the transmission into high gear and turn the rear wheel to turn the engine. I've done this on both my V7C and my Breva 1100.