Author Topic: Plastic quick connect from fuel tank (Read 19988 times)

jackson · « **on:** March 23, 2015, 05:25:27 PM »

Well..........I've read about it happening to others but today was my day to join the club of buggered quick connects for the fuel line coming out of the gas tank. I've had the tank off of my recently acquired, 2010 V7 Classic several times and each time, the quick connect system was really difficult to remove. I used to have a 2007 Breva 750 and although it could be a little stubborn (sometimes, but not all the time), they would release after a few attempts without having to pull too hard. The red connector did not break (like I've seen in pictures with others) but there is a very small (super small would be a better description) nick in the round-raised part of the red tube. So, now the connector just slides off easily because it won't grab that round raised part of the plastic tube.
*Edit: The more I look at the red pipe, I'm wondering if the tiny nick in the nipple is the problem. The nick is so small that the problem may simply be with the female connector. Though my searches on this problem, the size of the connector is 5/16" so will any 5/16" female quick connect fit on the red tube?

balvenie · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2015, 05:47:08 PM »

This site might have what you want

www.beemerboneyard. com

Look for a CPC chrome plated brass fuel line quick disconnect. Check that the hose size is correct for your model.

smdl · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2015, 06:54:01 PM »

If you need a new elbow, you can order it as an independent part (from an Aprilia Pegaso). It's not available in North America as the Pegaso wasn't sold here, so you have to order it from Europe. Not cheap, at GBP 25.00, but a heck of a lot cheaper than ordering the whole assembly for the Guzzi.

You can find it at gutsibits.com. Search for "Plastic Spigot" or part number FUA30000. Given the cost of shipping, I ordered two, and now have a spare.

Note that this model is white, not red, but seems a direct replacement.

Hope this helps.

Shaun

Matt Story · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2015, 07:08:20 PM »

Here is a direct link to the CPC website. If you can buy them direct, you'll probably save 50%.

http://www.colder.com/Tabid/72/MaterialID/2/cID/1/sID/15/tID/1/Products.aspx

Wildguzzi.com · « **Reply #3 on:** March 23, 2015, 07:08:20 PM »

jackson · « **Reply #4 on:** March 23, 2015, 07:17:37 PM »

Does anyone know if any of the 5/16" Dorman female fuel connectors will fit the red tube/nipple or do I need the specific Guzzi female connector Part #883265?

krglorioso · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2015, 08:44:07 PM »

Both my Stone Touring models have been fitted with the Beemer Boneyard quick connect and I'm very pleased with them. I cut off the OEM plastic fitting and fitted the BB connector to that. The, I clamped and safety-wired a short length of 5/16" (8mm) hose to the original red nipple and the forward end of the BB connector is fitted into that. Several years now and not a problem. It's a delight to use, compared to the horrid OEM POS.

Ralph

Mayor_of_BBQ · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2015, 08:48:41 PM »

Sorry that happened

I still don't get how ppl have such issues with these fittings?
It's really no different than a quick connect on a compressed air line??

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Adk.IBO · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2015, 09:29:16 PM »

I still don't get how ppl have such issues with these fittings?
It's really no different than a quick connect on a compressed air line??

[/quote]

I have disconnected and connected thousands of the compressed air line fittings you speak of and to compare them to the POS fuel line disconnect that came on MY Norge would be just plain ludicrous, yours may be different. Beemerboneyard had the solution that should have come on MY Norge to begin with. They also had the proper fuel line clamps and I was fortunate enough to know what tool to use and borrow to properly install them on my fuel lines. Taking my tank off for routine maintenance like inner spark plugs or changing the air filter will be a piece of cake now. I would have gladly paid more for MY Norge for it to have come properly set up from the factory without those aggravating POS cheap bargain brand connectors, maybe yours came with something different. The ones that came with mine could have cost me valuable downtime in a short riding season to save how much....? Sorry but you hit a nerve.

Stay safe, John

Mayor_of_BBQ · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2015, 09:39:18 PM »

I have a breva 1100 it's the same tank, lines, & connector

I've had my tank off 4 times, and besides the first time around.. No issues :shrug

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Adk.IBO · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2015, 09:46:55 PM »

Must be they ran out of the good ones.✌️

jackson · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2015, 05:16:38 AM »

Quote from: krglorioso on March 23, 2015, 08:44:07 PM

Both my Stone Touring models have been fitted with the Beemer Boneyard quick connect and I'm very pleased with them. I cut off the OEM plastic fitting and fitted the BB connector to that. The, I clamped and safety-wired a short length of 5/16" (8mm) hose to the original red nipple and the forward end of the BB connector is fitted into that. Several years now and not a problem. It's a delight to use, compared to the horrid OEM POS.

Quote from: Adk.IBO on March 23, 2015, 09:29:16 PM
I have disconnected and connected thousands of the compressed air line fittings you speak of and to compare them to the POS fuel line disconnect that came on MY Norge would be just plain ludicrous, yours may be different. Beemerboneyard had the solution that should have come on MY Norge to begin with. They also had the proper fuel line clamps and I was fortunate enough to know what tool to use and borrow to properly install them on my fuel lines. Taking my tank off for routine maintenance like inner spark plugs or changing the air filter will be a piece of cake now. I would have gladly paid more for MY Norge for it to have come properly set up from the factory without those aggravating POS cheap bargain brand connectors, maybe yours came with something different. The ones that came with mine could have cost me valuable downtime in a short riding season to save how much....? Sorry but you hit a nerve.
Stay safe, John
Ralph

Well, it looks like I should order the connectors from Beemer Boneyard. Is this the correct connector that they sell? http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html
What is the tool that you're talking about in your post? I am an old carburetor guy and have only a limited experience with fuel injection lines. Since my red nipple is intact, I will connect it like krglorioso did on his bikes.
Thanks much for this information.
Jack

molly · « **Reply #11 on:** March 24, 2015, 05:24:46 AM »

It is a pain to release you either get the hang of it and have no further problems or continually struggle. I found the use of a very small flat bladed scewdriver to prise the locking teeth from the rear of the fitting to be the best method. Of course if the elbow locking rings are damaged all bets are off.
I can recommend Gutsibits here in the U.K. for replacement parts as mentioned earlier.
If it is any comfort the connectors Triumph use are just as bad.

jackson · « **Reply #12 on:** March 24, 2015, 06:31:25 AM »

I was able to remove the quick connecter from my Breva most of the time with no drama but the connector on this particular bike has been a struggle every time since I bought it several months ago. The connectors are just junk and should have never been used by MG. I always unplug the electrical connector and then start the bike to relieve pressure in the line but undoing this connector has been the equivalent of wrestling with a bear.
As soon as someone confirms that the connectors that I need to order from Beemer Boneyard http://www.beemerboneyard.com/cpcqkdiscon1.html are the correct ones, I'm going to order them and use the method that krglorioso and Adk.IBO used with these connectors. Since my red nipple is intact, I'll attach directly to the nipple using the forward end of the BB connector.

biking sailor · « **Reply #13 on:** March 24, 2015, 07:11:11 AM »

My experience over 3 bikes.

2007 750 Breva, connector was slightly hard, took several attempts being coaxed with a micro flat screw driver but was able to get it done.

2008 1200 Sport wa a pain in the arse to get loose. Would fight it for 1/2 an hour and require my sons help for a third hand. Would eventually get it off but much cursing was involved, and when it finally came off, feeling of great relief fell over my body!

2013 Stelvio. I tried to get it apart on several occasions, spending up to an hour and many beers to calm down, never had success. If I hadn't lost the bike to a deer strike, it would have been changed out to a real connector!

Note, this is just one of many reasons I did not replace the Stelvio with another one and have gone to a different brand for my big touring bike. Loved so much of that bike but just too many little issues to deal with before I could trust it and the over cooling in winter was the big last straw issue.

jackson · « **Reply #14 on:** March 24, 2015, 10:15:26 AM »

We're having some great riding weather at the present time so I bought some 5/16" fuel injection hose and connected one side to the red nipple and the other to the RH barb. Put the proper FI clamps on each side and fired it up. Works fine (at least, for now). I ordered the quick connects from Beemer Boneyard and when they arrive, I'll just cut a section out of the hose that I just installed and insert the new connectors.
Thanks to everyone for your opinions and assistance.
Jack

ken farr · « **Reply #15 on:** March 24, 2015, 10:28:05 AM »

Quote from: balvenie on March 23, 2015, 05:47:08 PM

Look for a CPC chrome plated brass fuel line quick disconnect. Check that the hose size is correct for your model.

Could anyone tell me what size fuel line an 06 B1100 or Norge has ? I could just take the tank off and measure, but then I have to fool with the *#!^ing quick connect.

I think this is on my list when my next service comes due.....

kjf

Adk.IBO · « **Reply #16 on:** March 24, 2015, 10:28:35 AM »

Hey Jackson, the tool that I used for installing the clamps on fuel injection fuel line is a Snap-on YA3080. Google the part# YA3080 and you will find it quickly. If you need fuel line be SURE to purchase ONLY fuel line rated for fuel injection systems as gas leaking all over a hot motor has potential to be very bad! I stress this because the first clerk I spoke to at Advance Auto cut a piece that was not rated for fuel injection and luckily I picked up on the fact that she was unsure of what I was talking about. beemerboneyard code #'s are: cpcqkdiscon1 for the disconnect and BB13311460928 for the fuel line hose clamps.

Stay safe, John

jackson · « **Reply #17 on:** March 24, 2015, 11:20:54 AM »

Quote from: Adk.IBO on March 24, 2015, 10:28:35 AM

Hey Jackson, the tool that I used for installing the clamps on fuel injection fuel line is a Snap-on YA3080. Google the part# YA3080 and you will find it quickly. If you need fuel line be SURE to purchase ONLY fuel line rated for fuel injection systems as gas leaking all over a hot motor has potential to be very bad! I stress this because the first clerk I spoke to at Advance Auto cut a piece that was not rated for fuel injection and luckily I picked up on the fact that she was unsure of what I was talking about. beemerboneyard code #'s are: cpcqkdiscon1 for the disconnect and BB13311460928 for the fuel line hose clamps.

Stay safe, John

John, I bought fuel injection hose this morning and it was rated for 100 psi so I'm good to go. I already had some proper FI hose clamps. I lubed the fuel line before attaching it to the old barb at the "T" and it was fairly easy to get on; then I put a FI clamp around it. Same with the red nipple connection. Not sure why I would need the special tool since the clamps that I have are screw on type but made specifically for FI hose of this specific size. I installed a pair of "better than factory" connectors on a BMW R1150 RT in 2002 and used these same clamps with no problems. This way, I can ride my Guzzi until the connectors arrive (Friday). Then, all I have to do is cut out a section of the hose that's already installed and splice in the new connectors.
Thanks for your help.
Jack

Adk.IBO · « **Reply #18 on:** March 24, 2015, 11:46:17 AM »

If you used the type of clamps I used you would need the tool. Otherwise, you're on your own I'm afraid. What you're doing may very well be fine. Sure wish I could say riding weather was here but it's not. Way to much sand, and salt still, not to mention -10 degrees farenheidt this am when I got up. I did speak to a friend who saw a pair of robins already (don't know what they could possibly eat yet) so it's coming soon.

Stay safe, John

pyoungbl · « **Reply #19 on:** March 24, 2015, 03:28:22 PM »

I'm doing the same conversion on my '13 V7. When I finally got the darn QD to disconnect I saw that the red barb is really not a barb at all, it's straight. For that reason I'm going to re-install the QD, put some 5/16" fuel injection line on the QD barb, with an Oetiker clamp, then the metal QD (barbed on both ends), more 5/16" hose, and clamp onto the lower QD end. I'm just concerned that, over time, my hose would work its way free of that barbless elbow up at the tank housing.

Peter Y.

jackson · « **Reply #20 on:** March 24, 2015, 03:47:30 PM »

Quote from: pyoungbl on March 24, 2015, 03:28:22 PM

I'm doing the same conversion on my '13 V7. When I finally got the darn QD to disconnect I saw that the red barb is really not a barb at all, it's straight. For that reason I'm going to re-install the QD, put some 5/16" fuel injection line on the QD barb, with an Oetiker clamp, then the metal QD (barbed on both ends), more 5/16" hose, and clamp onto the lower QD end. I'm just concerned that, over time, my hose would work its way free of that barbless elbow up at the tank housing.
Peter Y.

I just rode my V7 for 70 miles under a variety of conditions and nothing moved. At this time, I just have 5/16" fuel injection hose from the red nipple to the barb on the other end. Both are clamped with a fuel injection hose clamp (screw type). I'll be installing the quick connects when they arrive later this week and will just remove a section of this hose like Ralph, aka "krglorioso" did on two of his Guzzis.
Although the red nipple is not a barb, I would think that there wouldn't be any movement of the hose if it's clamped tightly (whether you use an Oetiker clamp or the type that I've used). krglorioso said that he also installed safety wire between the clamp on the red nipple and somewhere else (he didn't specify where). He said that one has been on for several years with no problems. I sent him a PM and asked where he installed the safety wire but haven't heard back from him yet. It would be an extra step to ensure "peace of mind" but I don't really see any reason for it to come off of the red nipple.

Mark_Z · « **Reply #21 on:** March 24, 2015, 05:27:09 PM »

I love Sophia, my 2007 Griso, and I don't think I would trade her for anything less than a newer Griso (sorry, sweetheart). Having said that, I have never been able to disconnect the fuel tank. First off it wasn't obvious to me which way the disconnect was supposed to move, since it would't move either toward or away from the tank. Which way is correct?

jackson · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2015, 05:44:34 PM »

Quote from: Mark_Z on March 24, 2015, 05:27:09 PM

I love Sophia, my 2007 Griso, and I don't think I would trade her for anything less than a newer Griso (sorry, sweetheart). Having said that, I have never been able to disconnect the fuel tank. First off it wasn't obvious to me which way the disconnect was supposed to move, since it would't move either toward or away from the tank. Which way is correct?

The first thing you should do is (1) disconnect the multi-pin electrical connector that runs from the tank. That will stop the pump from running when you then, (2) press the starter button and let the engine turn-over (it won't start) so you can relieve any pressure in the line.
Some remove easily after doing this and others don't. Here's a YouTube video where someone is removing the connector: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo

LaGrasta · « **Reply #23 on:** March 24, 2015, 06:20:41 PM »

http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Quick-Connect-Disconnect-Fuel-Line-Adaptor-1-4-or-5-16/238549415?st_id=29673245

I bought this one, $13 shipped. Although still plastic, it's built smart. The thing is, mine didn't even break, but the few times I've had the tank off, I nearly have. I cringe just thinking about removing the tank and that's not right. ;)

jackson · « **Reply #24 on:** March 24, 2015, 06:28:10 PM »

Quote from: LaGrasta on March 24, 2015, 06:20:41 PM

http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Quick-Connect-Disconnect-Fuel-Line-Adaptor-1-4-or-5-16/238549415?st_id=29673245

I bought this one, $13 shipped. Although still plastic, it's built smart. The thing is, mine didn't even break, but the few times I've had the tank off, I nearly have. I cringe just thinking about removing the tank and that's not right. ;)

I assume that you attached the side that's connected to the red nipple with fuel injection fuel line and a clamp? If so, how long has it been on the nipple and has there been any slippage off of the red nipple?

pyoungbl · « **Reply #25 on:** March 24, 2015, 06:56:31 PM »

Oh, and make sure you have the correct allen wrench in your tool kit to take the tank off. It's not in the supplied tool kit. I discovered this when my QD popped off about a mile from home. No way to take the tank off and re-connect the QD. Luckily my wife has a sense of humor and could hook up the trailer.

Peter Y.

krglorioso · « **Reply #26 on:** March 24, 2015, 11:05:13 PM »

Jackson: Sorry, but your PM never received. I sent one to you just now.

For others, I fitted the safety wire upstream of the shoulder on the red plastic elbow. The shoulder keeps the safety wire from moving. The other end of the safety wire is wrapped around the EFI hose just downstream of the (proper) EFI hose clamp. Wired like this, the hose is going nowhere. Well, at least neither one has, so far. The BB fitting is a joy to use. I no longer cringe at removing the tank. Easy as pie!

Ralph

Mark_Z · « **Reply #27 on:** March 25, 2015, 01:14:05 AM »

Thanks Jackson. Why doesn't the shop manual say this? All it says is "Remove the fuel tank by the disconnect" or some such laconic verbiage.

jackson · « **Reply #28 on:** March 25, 2015, 05:32:01 AM »

Quote from: krglorioso on March 24, 2015, 11:05:13 PM

Jackson: Sorry, but your PM never received. I sent one to you just now.

For others, I fitted the safety wire upstream of the shoulder on the red plastic elbow. The shoulder keeps the safety wire from moving. The other end of the safety wire is wrapped around the EFI hose just downstream of the (proper) EFI hose clamp. Wired like this, the hose is going nowhere. Well, at least neither one has, so far. The BB fitting is a joy to use. I no longer cringe at removing the tank. Easy as pie!

Ralph

Thanks! I'll do it as an extra precaution when I install the new connectors.
Jack

boatdetective · « **Reply #29 on:** March 25, 2015, 07:10:15 AM »

Just another vote to confirm tha tthe factory fitting is a cheap POS. I replaced it on my Griso as well as the 1200S. I didn't have the beemerboneyard fitting- just went to the local Autozone and their standard FI fittings were better than stock. Only like $12. I didn't spend hours trying to coax the old ones off- I just lopped them off when it seemed like i was wasting too much time on a fitting i was going to toss anyway.

BTW- I know about running the pump to relieve pressure- still didn't work.

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Author Topic: Plastic quick connect from fuel tank (Read 19988 times)

Wildguzzi.com

biking sailor