Suitable '98 Guzzi EV Turn Signal Replacement

[Aldo]

I recently acquired a 98 EV which is in decent shape, but the turn signals stocks are baked and brittle. The signals themselves work fine. I know this problem is pretty common and was wondering if anyone knew of some good, cheap, red suspender-type replacements that would work or if anyone has tried 3d printing them.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Nice bike, why dont you spend a little and get some period correct from MG Cycle https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=37_156
Failing that the rice burners from the 70s had some pretty nice lamps.

[Iron Cross Junction]

I recently acquired a 98 EV which is in decent shape, but the turn signals stocks are baked and brittle. The signals themselves work fine. I know this problem is pretty common and was wondering if anyone knew of some good, cheap, red suspender-type replacements that would work or if anyone has tried 3d printing them.

Nice bike, why dont you spend a little and get some period correct from MG Cycle https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=37_156
Failing that the rice burners from the 70s had some pretty nice lamps.

Or ...

WARNING: 

Viewer discretion is advised.

The following pix are graphic, and may affect the sensibilities of purists and the fastidious. 

Fusspots have been warned.

====================

So, when I had similar problem — and they all do that — I took a more suspendery route.

The first two pix are of the identical repair of the (equally lame) OEM rear signals.  Popsicle sticks, electrical tape, and cable ties are the key ingredients.   

I couldn’t find the same of the front, and am too lazy to wander down to the Moto Grappa to take a better one of the finished item than the third shows.









In the interest of full disclosure, I did finally succumb and get an original rear unit from a member here, but the fronts are as shown. 

Bill

[guzzisteve]

Not being a cheap ass, I bought 4 new ones, stock. Invested $200 for the next 20yrs. MG has them.

[Ncdan]

I’ve been through this issues with my 02 Stone. All four broke within a couple months from when I got it.
The issue is not the entire signal unit, just the rubber.
There are two different lengths also, front and back are different, on mine anyhow.
It’s a shame that one must suffer the expense of buying the entire unit for just needing the rubber part.
I think the idea of the 3D printing that part is a great idea and it does not necessarily have to be rubber, I think ABS or any type of good quality plastic material would work fine.
By all means print up a hundred snd offer then at at reasonable price and make some money.

[LowRyter]

I glued and clamped my signals when they broke.  The epoxy seems stronger than the original plastic.  The key was clamping them with rubber bands and perhaps a screw clamp.  I let it set over night with generous amount of glue and it seems real solid.

The bigger issue is that light fixture attached to the fender.  I've got mine jerry-rigged with with nuts and bolts to attach the signals.  Surprisingly, this has held up for years.  I think Harper's has come up with a metal replacement.  I'm sure I'll have to get one someday. 

[Ncdan]

I glued and clamped my signals when they broke.  The epoxy seems stronger than the original plastic.  The key was clamping them with rubber bands and perhaps a screw clamp.  I let it set over night with generous amount of glue and it seems real solid.

The bigger issue is that light fixture attached to the fender.  I've got mine jerry-rigged with with nuts and bolts to attach the signals.  Surprisingly, this has held up for years.  I think Harper's has come up with a metal replacement.  I'm sure I'll have to get one someday.

^^^^^^^^
Likewise

[Aldo]

Thanks folks, I have temporarily glued and taped the signal stocks, but ideally would like to find a prettier (and longer lasting) solution to this common issue. I have a friend who can get me replacements, but I think it's only a matter a time before they get brittle again.

[Ncdan]

I still like the idea of using one for a pattern and getting someone with a 3D printer replicate the rubber connector and spit them out, which will fix the demand permanently.

[kidsmoke]

Suitable is the key word I suppose. Somewhat subjective. I certainly respect pursuing the stock arrangement.

I still like the idea of using one for a pattern and getting someone with a 3D printer to spit them out which will fix this issues permanently.

This. Seems best if keeping 'stock' long term is the goal.

I'm really REALLY happy with the solution I settled on. My riding mates are all astounded at the improved visibility. Admittedly I've abandoned the 'stock' requirement. I recycled the original metal frame which supports the original 'double tail light' assembly, added all metal light housings.







figured I'd match it up front. 3D printed standoffs set them off nicely, I think. The turn signals are VERY robust.

[Iron Cross Junction]

Suitable is the key word I suppose. Somewhat subjective. I certainly respect pursuing the stock arrangement.

This. Seems best if keeping 'stock' long term is the goal.

I'm really REALLY happy with the solution I settled on. My riding mates are all astounded at the improved visibility. Admittedly I've abandoned the 'stock' requirement. I recycled the original metal frame which supports the original 'double tail light' assembly, added all metal light housings.







figured I'd match it up front. 3D printed standoffs set them off nicely, I think. The turn signals are VERY robust.

THAT is impressive.   

Bill

[guzzista]

My solution for the plastic tail light bracket that cracks and the plastic turn signals.  CEV tail light with metal bracket as in Cal 2 etc, and 1970's aluminum CEV turn signals

[Ncdan]

I don't see the point of replacing those awful, precrumbled plastic stalks with awful, precrumbled plastic stalks.  When I ran into the issue with my bike I moved the rear turns into my side bags -- simply replaced the 1156 sockets with 1157's and wired in 2-element bulbs.  The front turns are "switchback angel eyes" surrounding my 4" driving lights.  The switchback lights are white DRLs that become flashing amber for the turns and then "switch back" to white.  I glued them to the rims of the driving lights.  So nothing sticks out to get knocked off, and there is no shabby plastic involved.  The best part is that they look unusual so oncoming drivers notice them.

When I was restoring one of Tex's bikes, we had the same problem, and Tex isn't a fan of plastic.  So I modified some old loop driving light bars to mount some old GUIDE turn signals -- the kind that a lot of loops and HD came with back in the day.  All metal.  Zero cost.

Thing is RK, if that cheap rubber stalk was replaced with a good quality nylon or ABS there would possibly  be no more breaking down of the material for the rest of the bikes life?

[normzone]

Zip ties.

Just riding, not proud.

Of course, the tension on the stalks broke the last remaining shred of rubber/shard of bracket.

So I'll keep you posted as regards the warranty life of this method.

Two around each stalk, and two each over and under the art deco taillight tunnel.

[bigbikerrick]

The turn signal stalks went TU on my 2003 Cali Aluminum, and I replaced with aftermarket( Emgo I think) aftermarket replacements meant for a Kawasaki Vulcan 1500. They look almost the same as the stock Guzzi ones, and they are inexpensive. They also mount with one bolt and a nut. Fairly easy to adapt.
Rick.

[bigbikerrick]

Here are some for 14 bucks a pair!
Rick

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266078016818?hash=item3df37c5532:g:5fEAAOSwwQljvMhZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8KCROx8EysqAwhXv6RkLi0j0E81UIRpbVoJXkDlLJywhuyMsTUvaC1YVcu8C4sZ%2FwTrOMygJW6APS2tj%2BsjgZRqZUho5v4utABNL8iXvjku0gruq3kBvVCWjpL3Kc6oOQVJ60DsL8JSMm9rzZGLVcY%2FFyYY%2Ff2RtZpRz9rcP0MA%2FDlm69Nso4OxpfX%2FgFoMwnWAoSy2rpI%2Bz2k5WYFvjM%2F7bCWQQkGoOFLJ0%2FqKg6PsfiUQoDt1em6qldiCB9MisD46P4gvmny0FWmnhN%2BORylfpdC7k6W81Km8XcB8ay5Z7QLA9w9G3joxwMpjncW6klA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMysmq5pNi

[normzone]

Ordered two, thank you.

Looks like I'll need to get mildly creative to mount them, but not overmuch.

[s1120]

Here are some for 14 bucks a pair!
Rick

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266078016818?hash=item3df37c5532:g:5fEAAOSwwQljvMhZ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8KCROx8EysqAwhXv6RkLi0j0E81UIRpbVoJXkDlLJywhuyMsTUvaC1YVcu8C4sZ%2FwTrOMygJW6APS2tj%2BsjgZRqZUho5v4utABNL8iXvjku0gruq3kBvVCWjpL3Kc6oOQVJ60DsL8JSMm9rzZGLVcY%2FFyYY%2Ff2RtZpRz9rcP0MA%2FDlm69Nso4OxpfX%2FgFoMwnWAoSy2rpI%2Bz2k5WYFvjM%2F7bCWQQkGoOFLJ0%2FqKg6PsfiUQoDt1em6qldiCB9MisD46P4gvmny0FWmnhN%2BORylfpdC7k6W81Km8XcB8ay5Z7QLA9w9G3joxwMpjncW6klA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMysmq5pNi

While not looking fully like the stock ones, they are clearly "stock looking" and anyone that didnt have one of these bikes would never know the difference. Thanks for the idea, and the links. Mine are still good, but Im sure the day is coming! 

[Wayne Orwig]

I printed replacements with my plastic printer.

[bigbikerrick]

I mounted mine on my Aluminum, which had the "Bassa "type of taillight in the fender top housing, the signals attached to. I made a small adapter plate out of aluminum, with a hole drilled i the center. The lights  proved to be sturdy, and I used them for quite a few years before I sold the bike.
Rick.

[normzone]

I mounted mine on my Aluminum, which had the "Bassa "type of taillight in the fender top housing, the signals attached to. I made a small adapter plate out of aluminum, with a hole drilled i the center. The lights  proved to be sturdy, and I used them for quite a few years before I sold the bike.

I'll have to do something similar. My challenge is that while I have a machine shop mind, I live in an apartment and own a dull hacksaw.

EDIT: Looking around the apartment for something that is already in a form that is both structurally suitable and cosmetically not too far off from the look of the tail end of the bike, that I'd only have to drill a hole in.  - current candidate is a 2 5/8"  diameter canning jar lid insert. I will continue to look for more cosmetic candidates.

[kingoffleece]

Am I the only one who thinks solid will be subject to vibration stress and failure?  Would too stiff just transfer the stress to another part?

[Wayne Orwig]

Am I the only one who thinks solid will be subject to vibration stress and failure?  Would too stiff just transfer the stress to another part?

True, but the originals were very rigid, until they just crumbled.

[normzone]

While I agree with both  [Wayne Orwig] and [kingoffleece], another source of aluminum stock that is readily available and in keeping with the style of that end of the bike -  the bottom of a sixteen ounce can of Pizza Port Brewing Swami's IPA. It is a tad lightweight though ...