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Turned the shaft with my toy lathe, made a Delrin bushing for a light press in the footpeg pedestal and slip fit on the shaft. The bushing is brown in the picture.Total time 43 minutes, material cost nuthin. (Guzzi content) Works a treat.. The only slop in the shifter now is the clevis and transmission arm. If it were mine, I'd fix that stuff. Nope.
There were only two bolts in the battery tray. "Them ain't important, Cletus.. the battery will hold it down.." Unfortunately, one of the bolts is broken off flush in the frame. Worked on it with some AeroKroil and a punch trying to back it out. No cigar. Can't get a drill, eze out, etc. in there without removing the harness. Nope. Beyond there lays madness.
Originally, the ground cable from the battery attached at one of those two M10 bolts. Black electrical tape wrapped harness... never a good sign.
Where's a guy to stop, when its not your own. All you can do is advise and suggest that its not airworthy. Some understand, some act like they don't.
Ran to the hardware store and bought $2.49 worth of steel, chucked it up in the lathe, and ran a thread on each end.2018-11-17_03-00-30 by Charles Stottlemyer, on FlickrQuick and dirty.. I'll finish it up Monday.. but that battery won't be shorting out on something. 2018-11-17_03-00-06 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr
Oh Oh , greasy stuff on the table saw. That's a wood workers no no.
I sometimes do the same sort of thing, except I buy battery holddown "J" bolts at Autozone for around the same $$ and use a piece of 1" wide steel flat stock.
Not sure what the flange's function is originally....could be a shame to mod a rare original part.The later velocity stack for the T series should work well and hasn't got a flange ; might even work better due tot the internal necking.http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3201. only problem is having to pen the wallet !
Getting fairly close to finishing up.. but.. the new air cleaners interfere with each other. Yeah, I could cave man them on there, but they'd be bent up, etc. Is there any reason I shouldn't chuck these things up and turn that flange off of them? If I did, I could get at least 3/8" more clearance on each side.Oh, reading on this old tractor, it says to initially set the carb slides with 10mm from the body to the cutaway. That seems like a lot.. I'm measuring .210" after reassembly. <scratching head>
Since someone has already machined the rings down on them, you may as well finish the job and alter them however you see fit. I think you misunderstood my "basic setup" procedure - set the carb slides so that the opening is 10 mm wide on the engine (tall) side of the slide. I just do that by eye, though you can measure and compare to get them about the same for start-up. Of course, you'll need to twiddle things for proper running from the "basic setup".
How tight should the generator belt be? This one is pretty tight (maybe a half inch at the middle) and that can't be a good thing. I read in this old tractor about making a brace to beef up the generator mount, but that is beyond the scope of what I'm doing here. Making a shim for the pulley would just take a few minutes.I could easily spend a hundred hours on this old girl..
By the looks of it, it is time for another tank or major reconstructive surgery, just went through that myself. Good luck! DonG
One more thing on the filters. If you bought these: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=164_166&products_id=1901 then you remove the velocity stacks and they clamp directly to the carb.