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General Category => Bike Builds, Rebuilds And Restorations Only => Topic started by: Canuck750 on November 24, 2020, 05:11:47 PM

Title: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on November 24, 2020, 05:11:47 PM
I picked up this 1948 250cc Airone (these early generation models are nick named the Astorino as it has the same rear shock absorbers damper design as the 500cc Astore)

(https://i.postimg.cc/MT3R1rQN/2-D59-E562-38-F9-47-CA-97-EA-8-D9-E1-FFD29-C7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mzMtsjVy)

It came out of the San Diego area and I have had it for a couple years but have only fired it up but not ridden it. The tank is apparently not the original flatter chrome type (I have a repro) and the tank was touched up at the front and top due to some serious ruts.

(https://i.postimg.cc/VNnmqSb8/B293-CB84-A69-F-4-A9-B-AEA4-5-F339906-CEC2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBjkygc6)

At a minimum I need to overhaul the brakes, wheel bearings, suspension, steering bearings, fit new tires etc. It has a serious oil leak I need to find and fix.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XNQ3k6Xp/FA78-EC42-6130-445-D-8-F91-D7-CDB01-F02-DE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4n7rXM6g)

I have been struggling with what to do with it for a couple years, restore it 100% or save the 'Patina' and just go through it mechanically??

This spider web of rust below the surface of the tin wear is typical, worse in some areas.

(https://i.postimg.cc/TYg0XfmP/1-FEBBF08-D003-4-C01-BFDB-B5192-C58568-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnc8V9g9)

The fenders and the rear fender supports are very corroded, but its all in or nothing.

All the bright plating is mostly gone, it is however a complete bike, nothing missing other than a tire pump and tool kit and nothing appears to be broken.

(https://i.postimg.cc/hjngpS97/A92-B4-D85-96-C9-4-AEA-B5-A6-7-AB8-C1-DEEC2-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1gvLz179)

I have gotten so far as putting it on a lift and giving all the fasteners a good blast of penetrating fluid.

(https://i.postimg.cc/k5zR4tPP/4693-D9-FE-1-AD9-4280-877-D-2-D707-CE7-E250.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FfbHCzKT)

Front wheel is a chrome plated rim with galvanized spokes, the rear is a red painted rim and spokes, I am betting the front was replaced at some time???

(https://i.postimg.cc/cCZHgRD2/D9772-C51-6-BFE-42-E8-964-E-293414425269.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9R8Vs7HY)

Restore or conserve?

Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Turin on November 24, 2020, 07:11:38 PM
If it was 100% original, I'd say preserve.  The tank, the wheel and the rust pushes me over to the restore column.
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Dave Swanson on November 24, 2020, 08:51:06 PM
I am in the same camp with Turin. 
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Canuck750 on November 24, 2020, 09:58:53 PM
If it was 100% original, I'd say preserve.  The tank, the wheel and the rust pushes me over to the restore column.

I respect both of your opinions very much, thank you. That's where I keep leaning to, many who have seen the bike want me to conserve it, I hate rust and I even hate it more when its called PATINA.

The Airone is not a big money bike, a real nice one can be found for between $8 and $10K USD. It could be freshened up and just ridden but I know I am going to take it all apart regardless and I think I would really struggle to put it back together without refinishing it.

I was able resist restoring my 1957 Cardellino because the overall condition was so good despite some big paint scratches in the tank, the Airone is in no where equal shape.

It will come apart ……….
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Glawster on November 25, 2020, 06:18:28 AM
+1 for restoration.  It needs the corrosion on the tinware arresting and by the time you've painted it, well better make a proper job!

I have a similar potential project with the Falcone Turismo below.  A good friend of mine bought it from Garlatti Moto in Italy a couple of years ago.  It has languished unloved in his boatyard since then.  We got it going a few weeks ago and it runs very well.  Actually I find it a better ride than my Falcone Sport, probably the smaller carb and lower compression make it more even tempered.  Anyway he want to trailer it to the 100th anniversary in Mandello next September and spend a few days riding in Northern Italy, and wants to improve the cosmetics.  As I'm newly retired with time on my hands I volunteered to have a go at it, thinking I'm bound to learn a lot along the way.
I look forward to following your progress on the Airone.
Cheers,
Derek


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50644742587_e819cfef39_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kaixx2)20200731_110644 (https://flic.kr/p/2kaixx2) by Derek Wardell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154993838@N08/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: s1120 on November 25, 2020, 07:44:31 AM
Its a cool bike, but with all that rust everywhere under the finish, if you start taking it apart to repair stuff it makes zero sense not to restore. If nothing else the tin all needs doing, and no use doing that half way...  maybe a serviceable clean/repair on mechanical bits, and a restore on the tin work.. 
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Groover on November 25, 2020, 08:33:31 AM
I'd just get it running and let it idle forever in your shop as music... the low RPM capability of those engines is very zen.

I'd also start sourcing the right parts to restore it.

Edit: got the engine confused with the Falcone, 500. That's the low idle magical one. (I misread where you said 500cc)
https://youtu.be/-j_B-ZbmjLI (https://youtu.be/-j_B-ZbmjLI)
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Canuck750 on November 25, 2020, 11:05:56 AM
I'd just get it running and let it idle forever in your shop as music... the low RPM capability of those engines is very zen.

I'd also start sourcing the right parts to restore it.

Edit: got the engine confused with the Falcone, 500. That's the low idle magical one. (I misread where you said 500cc)
https://youtu.be/-j_B-ZbmjLI (https://youtu.be/-j_B-ZbmjLI)

This 250 idles very slowly, a gentle chug chug. It’s so easy to turn over by hand, compression must be very low. I have collected some engine service parts but need to find rims and spokes. I am rebuilding a 1948 GTV engine and thanks to Patrick and Shawn for their brilliant translation of the factory repair manual the mysteries of the bacon slicer have been explained. I will replace the case bearings and felt seals at a minimum. If it needs guides, valves or a piston I will replace them.

Anyone have a contact for a shop that can go through the magneto and dynamo?

Thanks
Jim
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Glawster on November 25, 2020, 11:48:16 AM
I sent my MCR4E to Marco Valenti for reconditioning.  He sells all the parts but persuaded me to send him the whole unit.  I was nervous about this, but within 3 weeks the magneto was returned with new coil, condensor and bearings.  Cost including return postage (to UK) was €180, which seems to be somewhat less than half the price of a UK overhaul of a Luca / BTH
https://valentimotorestauri.com/en/
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Canuck750 on November 25, 2020, 06:58:13 PM
I sent my MCR4E to Marco Valenti for reconditioning.  He sells all the parts but persuaded me to send him the whole unit.  I was nervous about this, but within 3 weeks the magneto was returned with new coil, condensor and bearings.  Cost including return postage (to UK) was €180, which seems to be somewhat less than half the price of a UK overhaul of a Luca / BTH
https://valentimotorestauri.com/en/

Thank you!
0
I will send mine to Valenti, Mike Peavy handles all sales in North America for Valenti so I will ask Mike if I send it through him.

I started the disassembly today getting ready to pull the engine out of the frame, cleaning the parts as I take them off and cataloguing them.

(https://i.postimg.cc/J49fcV5S/61-E3-A55-F-EB6-E-4-C0-F-82-B3-3-FF9-A5-FA47-E2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXB74zyC)

I had changed to oil when I got the bike and fired it up, I was surprised to see the tar like sludge that came out of the oil reservoir when I removed it and flushed it. Same heavy sludge deposits inside the right hand timing case,

(https://i.postimg.cc/VNPMQRjd/804-E7-D16-66-BD-412-C-8-F95-695-EAB1-F9-CF9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCKN11Vj)

Interesting stack of sheet metal shims under the magneto, some of them are cut from Shell Oil tins.

(https://i.postimg.cc/9XN50qRm/757-CB631-2192-4463-AE1-C-CC7-D2-ABA7-F94.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7PmmJNw)

I don't think I can salvage the sprockets  :evil:, hardly anything left of them, the rear is no better

(https://i.postimg.cc/KvkXMvBn/FA8-DFB64-36-D4-4471-901-B-44-E1-A1-CC2492.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcsSRyPB)

I don't think the gear selector has ever been off the motor, it took a lot of pressure before it cracked loose

(https://i.postimg.cc/8cc2wT3g/59-CB1-CBD-8836-4-C5-B-9-BE1-753-C6-BBA41-F5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/H8Gvk1d6)

Such a difference from the 70's bikes I am used to working on, something new at every turn, a great - project!


Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Dave Swanson on November 26, 2020, 06:31:06 AM
I am glad to see the process beginning.   This will be a heartwarming story similar to those dog videos where the abused, skinny, and neglected dog gets a new lease on life!  :popcorn:
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Canuck750 on November 26, 2020, 06:05:36 PM
It's a mutt Dave!

OK so the GTV 500 manual says the engine can come out by removing the three through bolts, shifting the engine forward, then rotate and back end out on the right hand side.

Well this is NOT a 500 and try as I might I could not get the engine to come out in one piece, I unbolted the fender and shifted it forward and onto the tire for more clearance, I had removed the magneto and dynamo ….

(https://i.postimg.cc/SKr4pMK6/9-AC85-A61-885-B-4441-8027-415-D61-EC2-E94.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1ckrDfT)

So after spinning, twisting, left and right I pulled the head off

(https://i.postimg.cc/gkCmyp5Z/DBD16-D4-B-DC8-C-439-F-B286-A0-BEDA2-B49-C8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2V7smsCk)

Not pretty

(https://i.postimg.cc/hPzK7vCn/22871703-C68-E-47-BA-B862-B9-F281-E469-FC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xc2wwfDp)

I gave the head and the cylinder an initial clean in the vapour blast cabinet, once the head is stripped I will give all the parts a final vapour blast then into the ultrasonic tank for ahour to get any beads out of the blind threaded holes

(https://i.postimg.cc/FFPKL2Ny/4-D88510-D-A11-B-4482-8-E29-99-D126325-CF1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3g5m2Lv)

(https://i.postimg.cc/T1HYvWC7/2066-B986-71-A3-498-F-97-AB-2-C066-E1-A2-A4-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0ncj5yn)

Next to split the cases and see what all the internals and clutch look like, the barrel feels good but I need to measure it and everything else

(https://i.postimg.cc/3Rt32v58/AEC25-F65-6907-476-E-9251-5-B59250-E5088.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/phnNHyL4)

The cleaned parts pile so far sharing a spot with my 500Cc GTV 500 engine project

(https://i.postimg.cc/d1w02FhB/E6785159-1418-4417-95-ED-E239-E0-BF8831.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TyNGxZqL)



Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: jas67 on November 26, 2020, 06:53:39 PM
Wow, the before and after vapor blast pics of your cylinder head are a fantastic add for vapor blasting.
I really want one, but, haven't been able to justify the cost, as I wouldn't use it enough.    Now, if I could get a local friend or two to go in together on one.....
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: 80CX100 on November 27, 2020, 12:01:07 AM
Hey Jim,     It's amazing watching you work  :bow:

    Thanks for not only documenting the work, but also the tools you're using;

    I bought a big collection of old tools a while back and still haven't figured out what they all are, but I'm sure I've got a set of those split collar puller attachments similar to what you're using on the tranny.

    Re your bike, I thought it looked pretty good for the years on it, I might've been inclined to just do fluids and tires and go for a ride,lol, but man that cylinder head did look nasty and gnarly, I agree very impressive cleaned up.

    Looking forward to watching you work your way through it, it's a very pretty bike.

    Tia following

    Kelly 
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Dave Swanson on November 27, 2020, 06:54:59 AM
Very cool to see the process started.   I have my seat reserved.   :popcorn:
Title: Re: Airone - referesh or restore ?
Post by: Canuck750 on November 27, 2020, 07:00:40 PM
Today I stripped the head down and finished cleaning all the components.

(https://i.postimg.cc/8CMN6j0K/B3-FC9-BCE-030-A-4-A71-BD2-E-9-DA82484314-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y4r5cqkY)

The push rod access plug is all messed up from a previous owners use of vice grips

(https://i.postimg.cc/NjNrzPGq/51-B0-CA07-272-A-4-B40-8943-F6-A3-C4-C16-F57.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nXDzs2Q0)

A propane torch heated the plug and case until the plug cracked loose, one more part to be replaced

(https://i.postimg.cc/7hyC2F97/897-CC085-07-F5-4-AA4-82-DE-8-DDDD984-A64-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLCY8HZY)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1zn4YmYw/6-C481041-03-B3-4153-B6-F3-31734-A1-E5853.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1yQ4syZ)

The vale to guide clearance for both intake and exhaust is sloppy, the head will need new valve guides at a minimum, the amount of carbon on the inner surface of the intake valve suggests the guide has been worn for a very long time

The exhaust valve was much cleaner but the guides is too loose

(https://i.postimg.cc/761Hpf1G/CFE75-BBC-61-E4-426-D-BAEC-DF51117-C84-E9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hcx1MWhd)

after cleaning the valves, rockers and rocker bushes

(https://i.postimg.cc/tCN6h4Lg/E4685-BBB-E8-CB-45-BC-83-E0-861-C55-D008-E9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1f44SsRx)

Back to the rest of the engine, separated the clutch, a combination of steel and copper plates with a single fibre disc, steel plates are deeply scored, will need a new clutch kit

(https://i.postimg.cc/G2mG2wMp/D6-B96-EFB-BB30-401-E-828-A-3-ADB1-DFFA804.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsNCR5f8)

The clutch springs are on the opposite side of the engine, a steel push rod runs though the center of the output shaft and the clutch springs are outboard of the drive sprocket, different huh!

The knurled outer ring is threaded to the output shaft (left hand thread) and by turning it in or out the clutch spring pressure is adjusted, the adjuster was seized to the shaft and took a lot of persuasion, heat and penetrating fluid to release

(https://i.postimg.cc/FKZ0NsVq/364-BE37-E-3-DF6-4-F75-BEA3-BB56218-CB36-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DWSSchDd)

(https://i.postimg.cc/K8tnp5km/139080-DA-2-CE8-466-A-87-ED-5610046158-B7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCrpPYQ7)

with the clutch and drive sprocket removed and the crankshaft pinion gear that drives the cam removed the cases can be unbolted and with a few soft taps of a rubber mallet on the protruding shafts the case easily came apart

(https://i.postimg.cc/hjZxQyw1/658-F0-E2-F-B7-F9-4-EF0-A00-A-4677682920-E4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhng9LpN)

(https://i.postimg.cc/gj9z736P/AD5-C253-F-46-E8-42-D9-9655-137482-DB6-F4-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDqCDDqT)

The crank shaft pulled free of the bearing with little effort

(https://i.postimg.cc/PrjfzzjW/74-E9794-A-04-FE-490-E-91-BF-325-D04-BA3409.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sZVTvsc)

The opposite side kept the transmission set in place

(https://i.postimg.cc/qMsR9DLD/A7-FD9712-FF9-A-450-A-B3-D7-A0-D098594-F09.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXv4FgR2)

The transmission shaft is reluctant to leave the bearing, I will leave it to soak with penetrating fluid over night

The crank, output and lay shaft bearings all feel like crap, at a minimum all will need to be replaced and the felt seals renewed

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hk1Yz010/FC1-F2297-CC31-4929-A9-DB-44-BCFB3-C25-D2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcgVTzCq)

The crank / rod assembly 'may' be ok, needs to be stripped and cleaned then measured

(https://i.postimg.cc/G3Nh8wM5/81-F65820-4-CF5-479-C-8154-8-B3342-C324-A2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCHrm9YH)

All the parts I removed today have been degreased and vapour blasted, bagged and tagged for reassembly.

The bolt together frame shows its simplicity with the engine removed

(https://i.postimg.cc/XJ1NkTnX/DD7975-B1-7888-45-C4-ADF0-E233-D4-D748-A7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cgYNskgN)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on November 28, 2020, 05:50:13 PM
I finished the engine strip down and cleaning today, that's about 16 hours to strip, de-grease and vapour blast and tag all the parts.

One case cleaned beside the degreased only case

(https://i.postimg.cc/SNtCzJwp/90814839-4755-48-D0-9-A82-FB3588848785.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5m53fsN)

Pulled the roller bearing off the crank the roller is toast

(https://i.postimg.cc/yYqkq04x/941-CD674-D8-B6-4512-BE56-C79-C1-E993-EE1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qgLkyh7H)

Opened the crank sludge trap, clever through wire retainer for the plug

(https://i.postimg.cc/X7y7QqrW/873-BAA16-FE24-429-B-BA5-A-E064-F0608-A52.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6ytXQ9Vb)

Rod and rollers are very clean, no scoring on the crank bearing surfaces

(https://i.postimg.cc/7PJfQmRj/BD7-BD0-FE-91-B2-4-A3-C-B72-F-B7992-E4-DC5-D9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXx6nbqY)

I stripped the transmission shafts down and cleaned all the parts, they look fine

(https://i.postimg.cc/GmHPMkk2/E1643-D1-D-3-B58-42-D9-AEBB-506-C490920-BD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKvW15NM)

All the bearings  fell out after heating the cases to 350 F except for the roller race, had to drop an old bearing into the recess to protect the aluminum and weld a bead along the race to shrink it

(https://i.postimg.cc/KvV38CMG/C717-E5-D2-8690-4-A4-F-BF3-B-7-EBDCC39-E37-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBQgj1sz)

Cases got a final clean with the bearings out

(https://i.postimg.cc/fTbYLxqK/D5-E47-B11-9-B34-4112-8001-D2-F9-DDD7-A237.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qg9NDCTh)

Stripped the oil pump down

(https://i.postimg.cc/VLzYwg67/E6-A881-AA-E935-46-A0-ACF3-6-A4148-CC795-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzY6CS5W)

Cylinder has a deep rust spot from the engine sitting, may have to go wit a resleeve

(https://i.postimg.cc/mDMbL6Cn/3-FCEC4-A2-C60-A-4-C82-BEFB-3-EB0-B566443-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mzLxVjd3)

Now to source parts, hopefully delivery from Italy is going to be less than a couple months, its been crazy slow this summer / fall

I do have a set of case bearings and felt seals so I think I can at least get the bottom end back together, new valve guides and a piston on order and will replace the fasteners with the kits Valenti sells.


Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on November 30, 2020, 04:32:10 PM
Most of the fasteners and hardware on the Airone are treated with black oxide, I am guessing the factory finish may have been a hot oxide coating, I have a Caswell Black Oxide kit, it includes the black oxide solution that is mixed 9:1 with distilled water and the sealer that is used full strength.

(https://i.postimg.cc/MT3vHgm8/9-B0-C4463-430-F-4623-A390-102945-C00-CFD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vg9QSqKP)

Caswell says to get the parts clean and degreased. I vapour blasted each of the parts then put them in the ultrasonic cleaner with dishwasher detergent for a half hour.

(https://i.postimg.cc/FsL7FWf2/08-E50714-A96-E-4060-A901-E3391-FBEC326.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzwFm4sN)

Then I soaked the parts in a 25% solution of muriatic acid / water for 5 minutes and rinsed distilled water before soaking them in the black oxide / water solution for 30 minutes.

(https://i.postimg.cc/WpKdvL4G/771-EC1-FB-CE23-4-EC2-8-C0-F-5-F443-F4-F793-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NL6s6nmF)

The oxide solution gets a little cloudy after three lots of parts going through but I will save it to reuse

(https://i.postimg.cc/sxB1hKTG/B0-D74-CD8-1-A2-E-48-C7-95-CE-5-CC03338-FFFF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BP0qW59J)

I soaked the parts for 10 minutes in the sealer and left them to air dry

(https://i.postimg.cc/jC0dmfbD/C79-F4-B3-F-735-C-44-EE-8-A0-E-B4-BFFFB455-EE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRjktKzT)

Caswell says let the sealer dry for 24 hours, this is the finish after a couple hours of drying

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJjJZds2/296-CC2-A9-0317-4542-A497-DA9883-CB8-F83.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBkZGGXG)

The finish is dull, perhaps that's what it should look like but I had hoped it would have a little more gloss, I am going to try soaking the parts in ACF-50 and then heating them in the oven at 200 F for a couple hours.

At least the cylinder studs and case fasteners are black again

(https://i.postimg.cc/d1f0RXNm/EC0165-AA-C158-49-D8-98-F5-8-C34030-F166-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cgQZ0DSr)

I coated the kick start and shift shafts and the clutch springs that are exposed beneath the drive sprocket cover.

I am debating if I should coat the transmission gears and shafts as well, they are immersed in engine oil but I think at least the gears were black oxide from the factory.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Groover on November 30, 2020, 06:51:50 PM
Really enjoying this one. Thanks for sharing all this. It's my understanding that the shine on the black oxide starts from the shine of the bolt. Have you tried polishing a stud then see how that turns out? Can't wait to see if the baked ACF-50 does the trick. The Le Mans SE have black bolts, so this is exactly what I need to know how to do! Thank you.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on November 30, 2020, 07:56:50 PM
Really enjoying this one. Thanks for sharing all this. It's my understanding that the shine on the black oxide starts from the shine of the bolt. Have you tried polishing a stud then see how that turns out? Can't wait to see if the baked ACF-50 does the trick. The Le Mans SE have black bolts, so this is exactly what I need to know how to do! Thank you.

That's a good opint on the shine of the base metal which is applies for anodizing of aluminum, if the aluminum isn't polished the finished anodized piece will be dull. I am going to try polishing some parts and then going through the black oxide process again but I am suspect that this 'cold' process can replicate a semi gloss finish.
There are several hot black oxide chemical processes, one that heats the chemical to around 220F and a second that takes it close to 260F, the basic set up with heater, tanks etc runs around $2500 so its cost prohibitive for me. For my Cardellino conservation I just stripped the black oxide parts and powder coated them flat black, looks good and will last forever but for the Airone I wanted to experiment with Black Oxide, I will keep you posted on the ACF-50 treatment.

This is how the Cardellino parts turned out with flat black powder, I treated the chrome plated parts to semigloss clear powder and I didn't repaint any of the original red on the bike. I pulled everything apart on the Cardellino and refreshed / cleaned all the fasteners, I just went with clear powder, it looks untouched for the most part but it won't rust any more.

(https://i.postimg.cc/50bLqMKZ/F17622-EA-8-D55-43-CC-925-D-646-A185-D5-ACB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGVZp4hT)

(https://i.postimg.cc/vT5TTRr4/3-FF32-C3-C-327-D-460-D-899-B-37-CBFB455192.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BPQ47Vw3)

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 01, 2020, 08:05:28 PM
An update on Black Oxide coating - after allowing the Caswell sealer to air dry for 24 hours the finish is solid but not attractive, too dull for my liking. I coated all the parts with ACF=50 - immersing the small bits in a tub, draining the fluid back into the container and hand pump spray the bigger pieces. I then shook the parts in a strainer to get most of the fluid off the part and placed the pieces on a baking sheet. I set the oven to 225F and baked the pieces in my shop oven.

The bad news - the smoke / fumes developed is probably deadly, I had to leave the shop overhead door open and the exhaust fan running, I pulled the parts out, dabbed them dry again and back into the oven, repeated this step a couple times.

The good news - the parts dried to a nice even semi-gloss finish, very good appearance.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HnL8qb6H/86-A44-B30-B24-F-482-E-9-DA4-E5443-DF5474-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2wK8Y0t)

I have all the frame fasteners to do so next time I am going to carry out the final step - baking the ACF-50 on in an outdoor BBQ.

(https://i.postimg.cc/WzfqTtyZ/D827-FA78-B3-B0-494-B-A5-BB-1-A8-FE69-E1-E23.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/y3c8T6s6)

I can recommend the Caswell kit with the final extra step of ACF=50 anti-corrosive coating. The finish may have been achieved without baking in an oven but based upon what little I know of the hot black oxide process I don't think this will hurt. I can't say if the ACF-50 will retain the semi-gloss finish over the long run

(https://i.postimg.cc/kXBtwFVv/D824-EC44-C18-C-49-DD-8-E3-E-FAEB0-CCA138-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Tpvw3bJK)

(https://i.postimg.cc/8ky6hnCC/E32-C2-B99-9-CA6-43-F8-B5-A8-3364-AF6-B2103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3mMz2LK)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Groover on December 01, 2020, 09:27:38 PM
Those look great! Does the baking set the finish in more, or is it just to cook on the acf-50? No that regards, even if that were to wash off, they won't ever look as "dry" as they did before I don't think.


Great tip on the fumes, and thanks again for the specifics
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 01, 2020, 10:20:57 PM
Does the baking set the finish in more, or is it just to cook on the acf-50?

Hi Groover,

Not sure if the baking hardens the ACF-50 film, literature states ACF-50 will dry to a film and resist corrosion for a couple years in an exterior environment. When I spray ACF-50 onto a bare aluminum surface it can take weeks before the stuff fully dries. I wanted to be able to handle the parts and not contaminate the surface with oily finger prints etc.

I am going to coat some extra bolts on my next run and finish them with ACF-50 but leave them to air dry only and see if it makes any difference.

This is a pretty simple to use product albeit the precautions required of using the muriatic acid and the potential fumes from the AC-50 being heated. If it was not winter here I would be doing this outdoors!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Groover on December 02, 2020, 06:50:59 AM
Ok, got it that makes sense. I haven't tried this myself, and when I asked here on this board, someone mentioned to use saran wrap between the bolt head and the socket to prevent the wrench marks that may happen when eventually torqueing down these black oxide type nuts and bolts.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 02, 2020, 05:29:20 PM
I tore the rear wheel down to inspect the axle and bearings, there is a fixing ring on the brake drum side that is secured with a pin wrench, sometime in the past 70 years a ham fisted mechanic buggered up the nut, the nut is split on the side, how tight did this nut get hammered to split like this?

(https://i.postimg.cc/fW5BzCgG/0420-CC76-A37-A-4915-AD6-E-61-ADD035-B6-D8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bGgX349)

(https://i.postimg.cc/CxRv687W/FCCD2-F31-CDA1-4902-9075-381-EC3-F7423-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXqbXfHr)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 03, 2020, 10:51:31 PM
Great thread - love it!  Your reconditioned parts look perfect.

ACF-50 is going to be a much better preservative, but I used Caswell and sealed the black oxide with boiled linseed oil which was the old fashioned way.  The linseed oil dries satin sheen and darkens with exposure. 

the nut is split on the side, how tight did this nut get hammered to split like this?
(https://i.postimg.cc/fW5BzCgG/0420-CC76-A37-A-4915-AD6-E-61-ADD035-B6-D8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bGgX349)

The split is for a pinch screw.  (a little like the float chamber lid on remote float AMALs and Delortos)  The GTV has the same type of threaded nuts.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 03, 2020, 11:07:29 PM
You've got a BL magneto and they are easy enough to rebuild (easier than Lucas) if you want to try.  The trickiest part is soldering and making a fixture to hold the replacement condensers.  Digikey has the condensers, Mark's Magneto can rewind the armature if it needs it.


(https://i.ibb.co/Jpjj7dH/BLmag.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Jpjj7dH)   (https://i.ibb.co/WDPnN5z/IMG-6661.jpg) (https://ibb.co/WDPnN5z)   (https://i.ibb.co/bK4VNXy/IMG-6622.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bK4VNXy)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 04, 2020, 10:32:49 AM
Thanks for the info on the magneto. It’s on the to do list to overhaul.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 05, 2020, 05:38:43 PM
Finished another batch of black oxide / ACF 50, bought a cheap toaster oven, moved it outside and left the ACF-50 to bake at 250 F for about three hours. The original finish on the transmission gear clusters and primary drive is black oxide. Even though these pieces are internal to the engine cases and are bathed in recirculating engine oil I suspect the factory coated these components to resist corrosion from a motor sitting for prolonged periods and the cases being vented to the atmosphere.

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRkmSbTF/EC16-BB2-E-8-E38-4506-9-EF5-2177-D67-F758-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBJqPRGv)

Dismantle and inspection of the swing arm is next. The center stand wobbles like a drunk on a bender, I think the bolts have worn oblong holes into the frame, that will require rewelding and drilling.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 06, 2020, 01:48:11 PM
Your parts look new!  Nice work.

The frame may also be badly worn where stand contacts it - the GTV was worn back to the rivets.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 06, 2020, 05:51:10 PM
Hi Shawn, the frame holes are not too bad but the center stand holes are very oval

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJyfjyQs/381-A7400-643-B-4-AAA-903-E-73-EDEBB8-E89-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FdRPnS9k)

and the side stand bolt shafts are very worn.

I got the rear fender, swing arm and spring box off and cleaned today, the spring box was full of dirty grease but no rust,

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hn27sKT2/08-C548-FB-BD42-44-A4-9-C79-79-B50-D6-BC70-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvWqwwBB)

(https://i.postimg.cc/cHfnPCjP/DDB84797-F026-4709-8597-4-FAD864-BE473.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLQbKSJC)

(https://i.postimg.cc/d3d4HJm0/FFD827-BD-4465-4-E88-9314-C474-EFBB759-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SYS6jFP0)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Pf83rMsk/A8443-A95-27-CE-41-B0-A2-D9-DB8-CCA02-A116.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Rq4QgKZP)

Swing arm axle was coated in grease and in nice shape after cleaning it up

(https://i.postimg.cc/Vk7BFSQR/1-D625-D8-F-035-A-496-C-BDF2-E7694-FA84146.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JskkrzhD)

The chain has been sawing away at the swing arm pivot tube for a couple decades,

(https://i.postimg.cc/KcN6yNnv/C6-C44-F92-3-D47-478-B-8698-F3-B57136-D76-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qgNbs2b9)

same marks on the underside

(https://i.postimg.cc/SsbBm1Tj/0-F5-C2-FE7-0098-488-C-BE92-012366-A01-BD7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VS4GRgcc)

Should I weld up these scores on the swing arm tube?


Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 06, 2020, 10:02:49 PM
I didn't - but wasn't trying for a perfect resto.  How would the bronze swingarm bushings handle the heat?

My solution to the stand was to drill the holes oversize and weld up the rest.

(https://i.ibb.co/ctwcjB6/IMG-8400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ctwcjB6)






Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 06, 2020, 10:43:29 PM
How would the bronze swingarm bushings handle the heat?

good question, hadn't thought of that. I would have to heat / pull the bushes out, weld, grind then reinstall the bushes, maybe not worth the effort, going to think about it for a while. I was thinking of welding some pipe sections, 10mm ID into oversize center-stand holes, after running a through bolt through the frame / stand for alignment, weld the tube sections, remove the stand, fill the weld then grind flat. Then repeat for the frame, it sounds simple enough, how it works in reality? … we shall see.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 07, 2020, 08:08:59 PM
Last of the major component strip downs completed today, front fork and steering linkage, front wheel. Surprised to find the front brake shoes in very good shape, clean and not rusted.

(https://i.postimg.cc/90f0Zn6c/7-E5-D980-F-AD9-F-4-F29-8369-42-AC7-DA0-A5-C8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJW9StjZ)

Front fork tube is a very robust design.

(https://i.postimg.cc/m20NwY8Q/A89-CCA09-9242-458-A-9-A1-C-0-A7-AD176-A323.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RNLHCHrF)

Fork slider box is dirty but components cleaned up well

(https://i.postimg.cc/qRR30q1J/D1-AFC480-B855-42-E0-80-E1-D625-FE7-DF017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p9wTJWN4)

One of the front wheel bearings collapsed as I removed it, cage was mangled

(https://i.postimg.cc/zDwVMnzC/2293-E0-CA-DAF9-4-E07-B4-CC-1-B77-E5767-A5-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDBYxx6T)

Steering stem ball bearings still have grease but its of the consistency of clay

(https://i.postimg.cc/qvDtw4kW/0229-A571-25-DD-4-ECB-B37-A-A6555-DF6-E05-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Sn8NN0YG)

Inside of the headlight bucket is clean

(https://i.postimg.cc/vmkw3SxQ/36-AA5-B84-7-A72-463-C-A45-E-00-C3043-C0-DF4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z98QqHLg)

Frame stripped to just two sections, I have a big pile of boxes. all the parts have been cleaned, sorted and tagged. just like a great big model kit now, like the manual says "reassembly is the revers of disassembly", sounds so simple.

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: jas67 on December 08, 2020, 08:41:46 AM
If you're looking to weld-fill the chain gouges for cosmetic reasons, could you use JB weld or other epoxy on it instead?
That way you can leave the bronze bushings in, and not worry about damaging them with heat.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 08, 2020, 08:50:26 AM
If you're looking to weld-fill the chain gouges for cosmetic reasons, could you use JB weld or other epoxy on it instead?
That way you can leave the bronze bushings in, and not worry about damaging them with heat.

That’s a good idea, hadn’t thought of epoxy will definitely consider it. I am considering powder coating the frame, swing arm and forks and having the fenders, tool boxes and tank sprayed to match. A metal epoxy should be able to handle the curing temp of powder coating.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on December 08, 2020, 09:14:50 AM
That’s a good idea, hadn’t thought of epoxy will definitely consider it. I am considering powder coating the frame, swing arm and forks and having the fenders, tool boxes and tank sprayed to match. A metal epoxy should be able to handle the curing temp of powder coating.

The guys that do my powder coating say that JB Quik is more heat resistant than regular JB Weld.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 08, 2020, 11:12:45 AM
The guys that do my powder coating say that JB Quik is more heat resistant than regular JB Weld.

Thanks Charlie. I don’t think I have used that particular JB product before. Is it a two part liquid gel or is it the putty type that you kneed together? Assuming I keep the chain in tension and not let it ride on the shaft how durable do you think JB is for vibration? My only concern with an epoxy is it breaking off the original surface

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on December 08, 2020, 12:23:12 PM
Thanks Charlie. I don’t think I have used that particular JB product before. Is it a two part liquid gel or is it the putty type that you kneed together? Assuming I keep the chain in tension and not let it ride on the shaft how durable do you think JB is for vibration? My only concern with an epoxy is it breaking off the original surface

It's actually called "JB KwikWeld". My mind must have went back to my childhood favorite drink Nestle Quik.  :wink: It's the same as regular, just cures quicker. Either will handle the vibration, no problem (if applied correctly).

If it was my project, I'd just machine a slip-on donut out of UHMV plastic for the chain to rub on and forget filling in the grooves.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 08, 2020, 12:31:02 PM
If it was my project, I'd just machine a slip-on donut out of UHMV plastic for the chain to rub on and forget filling in the grooves.

That’s even a better idea! Hide the scores and protect the frame / chain

PS. I had forgotten about Nestle Quick, loved that stuff, I can see the tin in my mind right now.

Thanks

Jim

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 08, 2020, 07:18:29 PM
I took a closer look at the front fork components, the upside down fork tube slides through an upper bronze bush inside a steel outer shell and a lower set of roller / slider for each leg.

(https://i.postimg.cc/28VKHm4v/D8210-C1-F-95-B6-4242-9-B22-63-ACDC6981-D5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzHwRPDM)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Rh0Dxxyk/4-C4-BC30-D-30-F4-4-CE1-852-A-74-C1-DD1-C3-A89.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZL5FwXk)

The sliding fork tube has an internal hydraulic damper rod with a minor spring, removable top cap for filling with hydraulic fluid.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HL4ZJLgG/D48-BC065-3-E5-E-41-C2-8028-231-DE6106-A09.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R3hQy4hG)

The large spring surrounds the moving fork leg and is inside the fixed upper fork tube. Guzzi provided grease nipples to flood the upper bush and the lower roller / slider components. At the very base of the fixed upper leg there is a round seal through which the chrome fork leg slides, this is the grease seal.

The inside of the fixed spring tube was full of grease but it was filthy, probably never been opened up in 70 years.

Seventy years of the fork tube sliding up and down has worn the roller to the extent each roller has extensive flat spots, the roller was not rolling, gummed up with dirty grease.

(https://i.postimg.cc/769WRZs1/31-EB6651-0-CF9-456-F-A15-E-3-A89-F3-EF85-AB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0dj0MLz)

The upper bush is also worn, not as severe but plenty of slop.

(https://i.postimg.cc/sgGb2yxy/BF9-F4258-36-BE-44-D7-9866-7-DBE80304-C8-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G4rXMWvS)

all should be replaced, hopefully these wear parts are available from one of the Italian suppliers.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 08, 2020, 09:26:32 PM
I am considering powder coating the frame, swing arm and forks and having the fenders, tool boxes and tank sprayed to match. A metal epoxy should be able to handle the curing temp of powder coating.

Some thoughts on powder coating.  I've had 1 frame done well and another done poorly by different powdercoaters.  The 'coater that did a good job cleaned and degreased the frame then put it in the oven to bake the grease out of the head tubes.  He said they bake it repeatedly until there is no more grease. 

The other company must've powdered that frame a dozen times - it was so thick you can't read the frame numbers! 

Powder is more difficult to clear from threads and make electrical grounds.

The paint supplier said that paint is more chip resistant than powder, but that powder is more scratch resistant than paint. This surprised me but it matches what I see on the pipes exhaust I've had powder coated.

JBWeld does survive the oven, but it is difficult to feather out to the point where the edge is hidden by the powder (or maybe I was a rookie).

Great project.  Always wondered what was in those upside down forks!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 08, 2020, 10:03:03 PM
Some thoughts on powder coating.  I've had 1 frame done well and another done poorly by different powdercoaters.  The 'coater that did a good job cleaned and degreased the frame then put it in the oven to bake the grease out of the head tubes.  He said they bake it repeatedly until there is no more grease. 

The other company must've powdered that frame a dozen times - it was so thick you can't read the frame numbers! 

Powder is more difficult to clear from threads and make electrical grounds.

The paint supplier said that paint is more chip resistant than powder, but that powder is more scratch resistant than paint. This surprised me but it matches what I see on the pipes exhaust I've had powder coated.

JBWeld does survive the oven, but it is difficult to feather out to the point where the edge is hidden by the powder (or maybe I was a rookie).

Great project.  Always wondered what was in those upside down forks!

I am very lucky to have an excellent powder coater, the owner runs a couple race cars and is a real gear head + he does most of the motorcycle work in these parts. Just as you noted Impact Coatings blasts the parts, pre-bakes out all the grease and oils and has a dip tank to etch the steel prior to coating. They are also very careful to not fill in any vin stampings. I pay a little more but I typically get a clear UV coating over the base powder. The shop has also been able to cut polish out small scratches I made while assembly of a part. The shop almost never misses plugging or masking a hole, like I said I have been very lucky so far. There are many competitors around here for much less money but these are shops who specialize in commercial bulk coating like lawn furniture and I have seen some real crap work, you pay for what you get.

Speaking of getting grease out of tight spaces, three dishwasher soap packages, hot water and 90 minutes in the ultrasonic cleaner, I can keep flipping the parts around and eventually it will be oil and grease free. The powder shop will still pre bake the parts but I want to get it as clean as I can.

(https://i.postimg.cc/pdtcXF3Y/B539-A1-BE-E0-BA-4-E55-B779-FA66-A449536-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWXLgNSN)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 08, 2020, 10:28:59 PM
Moto Morini ultrasonic cleaner - that's the best!   :thumb:
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 09, 2020, 06:16:02 PM
Moto Morini ultrasonic cleaner - that's the best!   :thumb:

Its good for basting rims as well!

(https://i.postimg.cc/nr7vRWwm/141-E527-E-F443-4603-BDE3-76-D996-A5-A392.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wRqy3wzx)

Some call this patina

(https://i.postimg.cc/tR2y7grL/345-F8786-B018-4-C76-8-C0-D-CD42-DC84-ECBB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3b4cqYj)

The rear wheel was slathered in red paint, under the red the spokes are black and the rims were painted silver over a coat of black. Soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner loosens the spoke nipples but some still needed a pair of vice grips to budge them

(https://i.postimg.cc/0jJ65JY1/C50-DB9-BC-10-D8-47-A0-B8-A1-4-F9943-BE438-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tnpR2JvB)

A little vapour blasting to reveal the bare metal

(https://i.postimg.cc/BvDwFhJj/F7866471-B960-410-A-B2-CC-8-E3-FDED58-A3-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKGNSDkb)

The rear wheel has a significant offset

(https://i.postimg.cc/PqpnRzTH/E9-EE9-E91-C9-A9-4536-9868-5-AE7-FD368402.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t1jc16sv)

I have built a lot of spoke wheels but never once had one with an offset.  I need to strip the wheel to get the hub out for powder coating. Is there any trick to lacing an offset wheel or will the lengths of each of the four groups of spokes naturally form the offset when I re-lace the wheel?

Last pieces stripped, the rear shocks, the fluid was clean must have had a recent service, the seals are worn

(https://i.postimg.cc/50yYGrj0/0-CD9-C57-B-94-FD-430-F-B28-A-92-C2838-F1250.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bpSL2QR)

Assembled a big pile of frame parts for powder coating, just need to add the front and back wheel hubs.

(https://i.postimg.cc/nzqbHFXw/288-ABF94-CBDC-40-D1-A6-F9-3-F1-F75290351.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftWgChjx)

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 09, 2020, 08:54:47 PM
The GTV front had the largest offset I've laced and the spokes on the offset side had to be much tighter (which makes sense geometrically).  I've always laced the wheels, then mount them in the frame and true to the frame.  The advice was to true the wheel with all spokes finger tight, then tension the wheel.  The offset side required more tension or it would be pulled off the frame centerline to the hub centerline.

Hope that makes sense! 
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 09, 2020, 09:36:07 PM
The GTV front had the largest offset I've laced and the spokes on the offset side had to be much tighter (which makes sense geometrically).  I've always laced the wheels, then mount them in the frame and true to the frame.  The advice was to true the wheel with all spokes finger tight, then tension the wheel.  The offset side required more tension or it would be pulled off the frame centerline to the hub centerline.

Hope that makes sense!

Thanks Shawn,

I do much the same, always finger tight spoke nipples then true the wheel. Having not built an offset wheel I assume I measure the offsets for both the R and L side prior to disassembly and then upon rebuilding set up some form of jig indicator to match the original dimension or will just assembling the spokes in the original positions naturally result in the offset?
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 09, 2020, 10:30:49 PM
I think I answered my own questions re offset or I should say Richard Rosenthal did in his article in the November issue of “The Classic Motorcycle “ I just picked up this months issue and as I read through it I come to Richard’s article with diagrams explaining why the offset is required. I get your explanation now with the rim center being aligned with the frame center and using the forks as the build jig. I will measure the offsets and I should be able to reassemble the wheel correctly.
Thanks for your explanation.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 09, 2020, 10:52:45 PM

(https://i.ibb.co/PWvCcjT/IMG-9402.jpg) (https://ibb.co/PWvCcjT)


 :grin:
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 09, 2020, 11:52:32 PM
Brilliant!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Glawster on December 10, 2020, 03:34:22 AM
I'm following this thread with interest as I'm refurbing a 1960 Falcone Turismo and you are always a few steps ahead of me.  The parts all look pretty much the same!  I'm currently struggling to get the swing arm pin out - have put it on it's side and keep adding penetrating fluid.  I don't see any steps on your pin which should prevent removal.  Also did you take out the light switch from the headlight shell?  That's got me puzzled - I don't see any way to release it.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 10, 2020, 10:06:55 AM
I'm following this thread with interest as I'm refurbing a 1960 Falcone Turismo and you are always a few steps ahead of me.  The parts all look pretty much the same!  I'm currently struggling to get the swing arm pin out - have put it on it's side and keep adding penetrating fluid.  I don't see any steps on your pin which should prevent removal.  Also did you take out the light switch from the headlight shell?  That's got me puzzled - I don't see any way to release it.

I was lucky with the swing arm pin, just some penetrating fluid applied a couple days before I removed d it.  A wrench on the square end of the shaft turned it out of the frame. I have not taken a close look at the headlight bucket yet, I did try to get the switch out while the headlight was on the bike but quickly gave up. Stripping the headlight shell and horn are on my to do list
Keep me posted on your progress.
Cheers
Jim
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 10, 2020, 07:55:30 PM
Tackled the center stand, both the oblong holes in the frame and the center stand, frame, typical each side, not sure what the slots are in the frame holes but they appear to be stock, my guess is the stand bolts should have a tang on the head that fits into the frame slot and keeps the bolts from rotating??

(https://i.postimg.cc/V6hvPdjy/C24-AFCC8-6-C6-F-4345-982-B-19-A45-DFA7236.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBjSjMPJ)

Out came the MIG,

(https://i.postimg.cc/kXKQwmmM/C47335-D7-4-BCA-484-C-84-B9-5007-EDA5908-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpNB7tqt)

weld both sides of the frame flange and grind flat

(https://i.postimg.cc/FHvjBBry/C1-C15-EEB-1-D19-4-E2-A-B5-A1-DE77-F222-BB97.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QH69BSWC)

level and clamp the frame section on the mill, find the center and mill a new 10.5mm hole, the washer was just loose as a placement guide

(https://i.postimg.cc/QxJDpFHX/E7-AE0770-F810-4425-B0-AB-5-B8-F6912-DF3-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/crCPW4Rj)

Original bolt for fit

(https://i.postimg.cc/1RKw2Kdw/A143-EC6-E-157-B-4557-8502-4973144-F41-F1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6Ty8GCtp)

For the center stand the holes were so large I bored them out to 19mm and welded in new steel bushings then ground the stubs flat and bored the centers to 10.5mm

(https://i.postimg.cc/0yhwDX6R/4-DE9570-D-9-A93-4-DBB-882-D-0280-F732709-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKq1X9qC)

back together, a snug fit, should be solid now

(https://i.postimg.cc/9f4Bjq9V/06-F0-C5-E2-9-A66-4519-B82-B-98982364226-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdk41sgY)

I measured and recorded the wheel rim to spoke flange offsets and measured the length of each spoke, go figure there are four different lengths of spoke on each wheel

(https://i.postimg.cc/sxqR2WXz/3-B32-BAA5-1557-4442-B6-D3-D359-CA5-F509-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xNvZxcMp)

The Airone came with a spare rear brake hub and brake back plate that is larger than the one that was on the bike and the spare brake hub is ribbed whereas the rear brake hub on the bike is not ribbed,  Another feature of the smaller diameter rear hub on the bike is there are two studs riveted to the back plate that the shoes pivot on, one pivot for each shoe and a short steel strap joins the stubs after the shoes are in place and is secured with a M6 nut. The larger drum / plate has one fixed stud with the typical round pin that a pair of shoes share.

(https://i.postimg.cc/25z1SQtt/0-FBE7-B7-F-629-D-4314-844-E-5269-FFC90-E51.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G45LMydP)

(https://i.postimg.cc/D07jCYpg/C0-C9-D88-E-DF18-4855-B45-C-0-AE188-DE8-F71.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMrmHtSM)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Wb28h6Dx/B82182-AC-2760-4569-AA9-C-D6-CD20-B72570.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4HBWTD5)

anyone which of the two types of brake hub is correct for this 1949 Astorino?
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 10, 2020, 11:49:02 PM
Check the 1947 parts book from rpw.it.  It shows the pressed steel swingarm with the smaller brakes (tavola 15 & 16)
https://www.rpw.it/Files/Guzzi_Airone%201947%20-%20(testa%20scoperta)%20Catalogo%20ricambi.pdf (https://www.rpw.it/Files/Guzzi_Airone%201947%20-%20(testa%20scoperta)%20Catalogo%20ricambi.pdf)

My friend's 1951 Airone has the steel tube swingarm with the larger brakes. 

The parts books show that after WWII Guzzi put hydraulic forks and rear dampers into production before the larger brakes.  On the GTV/Astore the existing tiny front brake from the girder fork had a strap welded to it for use with the new teles.   It looks like they did the same with the Airone.

Nice work with the stand!

BTW measure the length of the swingarm rebound stops (#51-54 in Tavola 10) before you lose it.  Mine could use a little more rebound travel.

 
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 11, 2020, 11:10:16 AM
Thanks Shawn, great information!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 11, 2020, 09:25:24 PM
I was able to remove all the spokes from the front and rear wheel without breaking any, plenty of penetrating fluid being sprayed on the wheels for a couple weeks worked.

My spoke map

(https://i.postimg.cc/V6TG5QLH/4-A2-A0-A93-702-B-40-F0-BD3-C-B4-D6-CA07-E694.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fdygn6Sj)

The rear wheel spokes are thinner than the front and the rear wheel nipples have a concave washer between the nipple and rim, that's a new one for me.

(https://i.postimg.cc/5yVzsnP2/0510-FEE4-3-DF5-417-E-9-F63-92-C421-B4-A789.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GKb6M8F)

I typically string spoke nipples through thin galvanized wire to clean them and then send them off for Cad plating. The spokes cleaned up decently on a wire wheel. I think all the layers of paint preserved the spokes and nipples.

(https://i.postimg.cc/C1DDCWs2/430-EC2-F2-9075-4-D60-94-F9-B2-B474-CDF896.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yg1ksp5h)

I asked Valenti's USA rep Mike Peavy to enquire if new spoke kits are available, if not I will reuse these originals.

Stripped the seat cover off, making a pile of parts for black powder coating including the head light shell, rear suspension spring box, center stand.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gk3Sc79N/92-EDCD9-A-D6-A0-4598-AD45-A72718-A18-FE4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCcY00hD)

The seat cover needs some TLC, the metal folding straps need plating and the split rivets replaced, the fabric just needs some good scrubbing.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Glawster on December 12, 2020, 06:01:12 AM
You're moving on very fast Jim.  Regarding the seat cover I see Brezzi Samuele has them for €45.  I got a dual seat cover from Brezzi for my Parilla and was very pleased with the quality, so I'll be going for one of those.
I did finally manage to remove the swing arm pin.
However, I now have a problem to strip the forks.  Can you advise what holds the lower fork leg to the damper mech?  I've unscrewed the castellated ring and taken out the brass guides, but can't separate the lower leg.  There must be something I've missed, but I can't see it.
Cheers,
Derek


(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50708824568_3721718b7f_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kfXYSL)20201212_112622 (https://flic.kr/p/2kfXYSL) by Derek Wardell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154993838@N08/), on Flickr
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 12, 2020, 11:01:42 AM
The hard chrome lower fork leg is held by the upper shaft that has the castle nut integral on top. That castle capped shaft is sitting on top of the upper bush and the bush is bolted to the fixed upper fork. Could be the damper rod with the threaded end that sticks out the top of the chrome fork cap is sticking on the upper oil seal. I clamped the bottom of the lower chrome fork leg and grabbing the upper painted fork assembly I pulled hard on the upper section to free the leg.
I found that after the chrome leg was out getting the upper bronze bush out through the top of the painted upper fork required a long steel rod pushed in from the bottom of the painted fork and tapping on the bush to get it out the top of the fork body.

Hope this helps

Let me know

Jim
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 12, 2020, 05:18:44 PM
I dissembled the headlight shell, to remove the switch plate unscrew the four small screws that retain the wire eyelet terminals

(https://i.postimg.cc/XqMpDjkW/41964358-A810-40-C8-BCC9-148-FBA656-F9-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Pp4XCk7V)

The two center eyelet screws retain a removable plate, move the plastic / brass piece to one side, there is a nut hidden below that holds the outer key flange to the switch plate

(https://i.postimg.cc/T2my5bT3/4-A43881-B-95-F1-4-DD5-9280-F56033-D0-F3-F6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqSCjN3k)

I removed the plastic indicator light lenses by pulling the black plastic retainers off from the inside of the headlight bucket but the internal plastic clips just broke up, I will probably just glue the two plastic indicator lenses back in place.

The shell has a lot of deep 'patina' marks in it, going to sand it out as much as I can, maybe some filler will be required.

(https://i.postimg.cc/D0qm99xX/F3-A922-DC-8-D4-D-412-F-8808-80-F5-E5318361.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7JZx7W8H)

Parts stripped for satin black powder coating

(https://i.postimg.cc/dVJTY0Pt/BD67719-C-9-AEA-456-C-B3-A4-F763223-CAE7-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnB0ym2f)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 13, 2020, 05:24:50 PM
I am going to name the Airone rebuild my official - bike, seems fitting, I put off touching it for years waiting for the right moment, it took a lock down to get me to decide what to do with it and get onto the restoration.

This afternoon spent quality lock down time in my shop sanding out the rust pits on the rear frame rails. The horizontal surfaces of the heavy steel rails have deep rust pits, too deep to just bead blast and send to powder coat, I could sand blast and fill the pitting and then sand it smooth but given how thick the steel is in these components I decided to sand the rusted surface smooth.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cCj6PYsL/2667-A9-F7-374-A-400-F-8234-FC1413-D7-A5-C0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0qYCJrx)

a couple hours with a random orbital air sander with a foam pad starting with 120 then 240 and finally 320 grit paper the surfaces came out smooth

(https://i.postimg.cc/50sXqTTv/2-F5-EB9-CE-D9-EF-4-DD7-B6-E5-F78418-B1-CE12.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0tyqn8F)

One pair ready for powder coating

(https://i.postimg.cc/Kj4R9QhW/8-B5-D31-C9-8-A52-474-C-AD2-F-9-AC31-CB0-DBB9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YLKr069N)

gave the headlight shell the same sanding process, the pitting was deeper and some minor remnants remain, I will ask my powder coater if the finish will fill and flow or if I need to fill and sand this piece

(https://i.postimg.cc/t45YFDJF/06-D10019-1-F60-48-D0-9-F56-10-C3312-D25-E6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZZyhxQv)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: keener on December 13, 2020, 11:53:01 PM
  :popcorn:  thank you for sharing your great builds ....
Keener
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Dave Swanson on December 15, 2020, 07:59:09 AM
This bike can thank it's lucky stars!   :laugh:
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 15, 2020, 10:44:59 AM
Thanks for the encouragement Keener and Dave, it’s going to be a long wait on parts I think. Valenti has been taking around 3-4 months to get parts here and I just put my order in last week for engine and various other bits. I am looking forward a new chrome shop in western Canada as my go to guy has been dropping off in quality, the chrome on my Ducati 860 GT headers is blistering off after one summer. On the positive side I found a contact for a local hand pinstripe artist who can line the tank and fenders. I can keep busy on small parts like the dynamo, magneto and carb while I wait for parts

Keep healthy

Cheers

Jim
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 15, 2020, 03:45:26 PM
The swing arm lower joint that contains the link to the spring box has a pair of sheet metal caps on each side, one of mine had a hole rusted through and attempts to weld it up with brass rod just resulted in what was left of the sheet metal disintegrating. I don't think these pieces are reproduced, at least I have not found a source so I turned up a pair from 2" diameter aluminum rod. A couple of measurements,

(https://i.postimg.cc/Pfb4ZgXr/496-FFF22-40-CD-4807-8-FDC-40-C587-F86-C5-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8s5Mgnfq)

a big pile of swarf

(https://i.postimg.cc/ydZLwWCF/9-A6979-B6-190-E-441-D-BF0-D-C8-AAC6504-F6-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k67NSJ44)

and two suitable facsimiles of the original sheet metal caps

(https://i.postimg.cc/K8xDJJYr/E12102-E7-8-AF2-4590-A157-63-D3658-FBCFE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Czr8KCkz)

This is the extent of my capabilities on a lathe, I can make round things a smaller diameter, cut off round things, but after that I am steering blind, if there was a community college course on running a manual lathe I would sign up tomorrow.

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZnLxSd7y/B035-EF98-DE8-A-4-F1-F-9366-D1-E7-E4965574.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSJ97Jhw)

but they will do the job, plenty of clearance to moving parts, the aluminum was cut down to appx. .7mm wall thickness, once painted black most people will never know they are not stock

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 16, 2020, 09:09:14 PM
Spent a couple hours this morning sanding the rust pitting out of the pressed steel swing arm

(https://i.postimg.cc/L5pXKDdM/438-DCCE7-FCEB-4-BC9-A765-A4654-ABE8-B47.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ft8ZYxTH)

(https://i.postimg.cc/J7N03fJ7/99674-F5-A-097-A-4-B0-F-91-A9-30-FD92-A18-A97.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8sCTNntx)

Under the red paint and rust, er…  'patina' was a layer of grey filler primer, it was really well bonded and very thick (The Moto Guzzi service manual refers to the finish as nitro-cellulose oven baked to 90 ~ 100C for three hours), once stripped off, the side faces of the pressing were full of shallow crease marks formed by the press. I don't want to use a filler so again I went at the steel with a random orbital sander. This is a nice heavy pressing and relatively mild steel which responds well to flat sanding. I ended up using 15 sheets of 80 grit and 13 of 240 grit to get the exposed faces smooth.

A couple hours later and it was done. Before it goes off to the powder coater it will be gone over with a fine sandblast to get all the paint off the nooks and out of the crannies.

Reminds me of being a kid and being put to work in the shop by my autobody mechanic father, sanding and sanding his cars for paint, I think I prepped at least twenty cars, that taught me patience and pride in working with ones hands.

(https://i.postimg.cc/wMQB6NHR/DFA83-C30-6547-4930-8485-70-D5027-B30-E5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vxDyhc4G)

(https://i.postimg.cc/fRLbNkPk/1-BBFE56-F-B519-4-F7-A-8692-5802-E7054-BBC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzPrcB4d)

On to the front frame section and front forks next.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Don G on December 17, 2020, 08:46:30 AM
A caustic soda hot tank would make short work of the paint on those forks, just have to power wash well after the bath.  DonG
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 17, 2020, 11:04:39 AM
A caustic soda hot tank would make short work of the paint on those forks, just have to power wash well after the bath.  DonG

Hi Don, where do you get caustic soda? My ultrasonic cleaner tank heats to 50C and I can do half the forks at a time
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Don G on December 17, 2020, 03:08:33 PM
Engine rebuilding shops usually used hot tanks, radiator repair shops also use this technology, perhaps its changed but some one in your town should still have a hot tank going. I have a 50LB bag of caustic soda beads if you want to mix up your own bath, used to be able to buy caustic from industrial suppliers like Acklands etc. The best caustic was called Oakite, it would even remove surface rust, another was Red Hot Mamma, try an industrial cleaning supply joint. The only problem with caustic is you should not use it on Aluminium, pot metal, or on anything you cant rinse off, like inside of frame tubes, but if the object has open surfaces caustic works well and fast.  DonG
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 17, 2020, 06:09:54 PM
Engine rebuilding shops usually used hot tanks, radiator repair shops also use this technology, perhaps its changed but some one in your town should still have a hot tank going. I have a 50LB bag of caustic soda beads if you want to mix up your own bath, used to be able to buy caustic from industrial suppliers like Acklands etc. The best caustic was called Oakite, it would even remove surface rust, another was Red Hot Mamma, try an industrial cleaning supply joint. The only problem with caustic is you should not use it on Aluminium, pot metal, or on anything you cant rinse off, like inside of frame tubes, but if the object has open surfaces caustic works well and fast.  DonG

Thanks Don,
I got my rain check floor model sand blast cabinet from Princess Auto this morning, (half price for $200.00!) and spent the afternoon assembling it. My vapour blast cabinet is a great tool but it does not take paint off, only oxide so I opted to add a sand blast cabinet for working on steel pieces. I am going to look for some caustic coda tomorrow.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 17, 2020, 09:39:23 PM
Caustic soda is another name for lye - find it with the plumbing in the hardware store.

I made a hot tank from the bottom of an old electric water heater - see the GTV thread.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 17, 2020, 09:55:09 PM
Caustic soda is another name for lye - find it with the plumbing in the hardware store.

I made a hot tank from the bottom of an old electric water heater - see the GTV thread.

I will take a look at your post, thanks for the tip!

Jim
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 17, 2020, 10:29:55 PM
https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=91496.msg1645675#msg1645675 (https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=91496.msg1645675#msg1645675)

A little slim on the details.  Here's a test on the stove, then cutting a 50 gal 240v water heater just below the upper element.  If doing it again, I'd have left the outer jacket on.  I just wired the remaining element straight to 120v.

(https://i.ibb.co/Cvf0fHr/IMG-8114s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Cvf0fHr)   (https://i.ibb.co/qFryDms/IMG-8123s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qFryDms)   (https://i.ibb.co/svYBwwC/IMG-8126s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/svYBwwC)    (https://i.ibb.co/ysRBjfK/IMG-8134s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/ysRBjfK)


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Instant-Power-Crystal-Lye-Drain-Cleaner-1650/204374017?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-DrainChemicals&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-DrainChemicals-71700000053283188-58700005117670205-92700047360239711&gclid=CjwKCAiAoOz-BRBdEiwAyuvA69jcKd5iydCrzuKN-oHr_gsQJer16_OJiu42wwvO0D7hkG1I3HP6ZxoCRV4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Instant-Power-Crystal-Lye-Drain-Cleaner-1650/204374017?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-DrainChemicals&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D26P-G-D26P-26_7_PLUMBING_REPAIR_And_REPLAC-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-DrainChemicals-71700000053283188-58700005117670205-92700047360239711&gclid=CjwKCAiAoOz-BRBdEiwAyuvA69jcKd5iydCrzuKN-oHr_gsQJer16_OJiu42wwvO0D7hkG1I3HP6ZxoCRV4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 17, 2020, 10:36:50 PM
Is it ok to use the hot tank indoors, any concern with fumes? I have read that Caustic soda can be very dangerous to the eyes.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Don G on December 18, 2020, 09:19:25 AM
Caustic soda is nasty shite! do not get it on your person, other than that its fairly safe....   DonG
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 19, 2020, 12:08:24 AM
Is it ok to use the hot tank indoors, any concern with fumes? I have read that Caustic soda can be very dangerous to the eyes.

I wouldn't use it indoors.  It steams and vapors would be basic (caustic).  The lye comes in pellets and can be very concentrated until adequately diluted.  Concentrated lye turns your cell membranes to soap so it feels slippery if you get any on your fingers - even after rinsing for a long time. And nobody wants a soapy eyeball.  Use gloves and safety glasses.   :cool:

1 kilo of lye pellets (NaOH) in 100 liters of water is reasonably dilute (about 0.25 Molar solution) so not super dangerous once dissolved.  The effectiveness will decay as it converts grease to soap so you will need to add more lye as you go.

Higher temperatures and concentrations are more effective.  This one would only get to about 55-60C.  It stripped off almost all the old paint easily and most of the grease.  Most of the remainder washed off with a garden hose and scrub brush.

Don't use it on aluminum - it rots away!  It is for steel and iron, but brass and bronze can survive for a short time.

While the lye can give you chemical burns it doesn't have toxic vapors and isn't carcinogenic or neurotoxic.


(https://i.ibb.co/Kq8mZ4P/IMG-8144s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kq8mZ4P)   (https://i.ibb.co/8N8VkC9/IMG-8154s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8N8VkC9)   (https://i.ibb.co/D5WF0W2/IMG-8227.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5WF0W2)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 19, 2020, 06:02:49 PM
I wouldn't use it indoors.  It steams and vapors would be basic (caustic).  The lye comes in pellets and can be very concentrated until adequately diluted.  Concentrated lye turns your cell membranes to soap so it feels slippery if you get any on your fingers - even after rinsing for a long time. And nobody wants a soapy eyeball.  Use gloves and safety glasses.   :cool:

1 kilo of lye pellets (NaOH) in 100 liters of water is reasonably dilute (about 0.25 Molar solution) so not super dangerous once dissolved.  The effectiveness will decay as it converts grease to soap so you will need to add more lye as you go.

Higher temperatures and concentrations are more effective.  This one would only get to about 55-60C.  It stripped off almost all the old paint easily and most of the grease.  Most of the remainder washed off with a garden hose and scrub brush.

Don't use it on aluminum - it rots away!  It is for steel and iron, but brass and bronze can survive for a short time.

While the lye can give you chemical burns it doesn't have toxic vapors and isn't carcinogenic or neurotoxic.


(https://i.ibb.co/Kq8mZ4P/IMG-8144s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kq8mZ4P)   (https://i.ibb.co/8N8VkC9/IMG-8154s.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8N8VkC9)   (https://i.ibb.co/D5WF0W2/IMG-8227.jpg) (https://ibb.co/D5WF0W2)


Great information Shawn, thank you! I don't want to set up a hot tank indoors and its winter now so I don't see building one until the spring but I will eventually make one.

I got a mid size floor model sand blast cabinet from our Canadian equivalent to Harbor Freight; Princess Auto for a half price sale of $200.00. I forgot how much I hate sandblasting and sandblast cabinets, have to keep the shop vac hooked up to the cabinet exhaust and running, combined with the compressor, even with hearing protection its loud and dust still drift around, I got about 3/4 of the bike parts sandblasted and then finished in the vapor blast cabinet. I will be glad when all the paint / rust is stripped and the parts sanded smooth.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 22, 2020, 08:09:56 PM
I have stripped the paint and prepared all the frame components, down to the fenders, tool boxes and oil tank.

The fenders have suffered from a lot of surface rust,

(https://i.postimg.cc/28qQbf0p/4-FC9-E320-EB8-E-4-F11-931-D-C707-E6-CB0-BF9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcsgkCRX)

What lies beneath (sounds like a horror movie title), after a coat of spray on aircraft paint stripper and a hand scraper to remove the thick paint layers

(https://i.postimg.cc/RFX7fCrm/0-A7587-D0-9-ED7-44-D2-A6-E3-351-EE0-D32637.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YQQWVNK)

After a sand blast there are plenty of deep rust pits under that mess to fill and paint

I bought a Beugler Pinstripe roller to try my hand at painted pin stripes on the fenders, tank, tool boxes and oil tank, plenty of videos on You Tube demonstrating the kit

(https://i.postimg.cc/Y06QkTY4/bugler.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 26, 2020, 06:43:50 PM
I stripped the last of the painted parts today, tool boxes and oil tank, I used an automotive paint stripper, they sure don't make a good paint stripper like they used to, progress huh? After stripping in to the sand blast cabinet for a couple minutes to get any revenant of paint and loose rust off.

(https://i.postimg.cc/3wMm5Ftr/2-B557-AE4-1-C54-4822-BE12-BA95-ADDA4-AE9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75VfS0vj)

The fenders and tool boxes are made from several pieces of formed sheet metal and rust collects in the folded metal seams and between the inside of the fenders and the fender support brackets. 'Evaporust' in the ultrasonic tank heated to 45C does wonders in getting the hidden rust to flow out of the ends of the seams and from under the riveted brackets. You can see the particles of rust slowly flowing out of their hiding places and collecting in a puddle of sludge in low spots. It takes about an hour to clean a section then shift the fender a bit more to immerse it and continue.

(https://i.postimg.cc/G2KyDwd9/D9142-B3-B-9-B5-B-41-B7-A409-27-DAB6-B63740.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njsr8Wst)

After the Evaporust has done its thing the bare pock marked metal is exposed, ready for refinishing.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HnMmm4ws/E7554420-61-BC-4-CEC-8-C6-D-F2-C55-BF58128.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T5TFqbNZ)

Glad to have this messy and time consuming part of the project behind me!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 27, 2020, 11:30:49 AM
Wow, that sonicator really does the job!  Who makes yours and what size is it?  I've always used phosphoric acid, but might have to try evaporust.

From the looks of it Canadian paint stripper still works.  Methylene chloride (carcinogenic neurotoxin responsible for work related fatalities) has been removed from US paint strippers and all they do now is soften the surface.  The absolute failure of the stripper is why I made the hot tank and it is much cleaner and easier. 

BTW - pressure check your oil tank for leaks.  If it is like the GTV tank, some of it is soldered and the solder joints may fail.  Even my new oil tank had a weep where the oil supply fitting was soldered in.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 27, 2020, 11:45:59 AM
Wow, that sonicator really does the job!  Who makes yours and what size is it?  I've always used phosphoric acid, but might have to try evaporust.

From the looks of it Canadian paint stripper still works.  Methylene chloride (carcinogenic neurotoxin responsible for work related fatalities) has been removed from US paint strippers and all they do now is soften the surface.  The absolute failure of the stripper is why I made the hot tank and it is much cleaner and easier. 

BTW - pressure check your oil tank for leaks.  If it is like the GTV tank, some of it is soldered and the solder joints may fail.  Even my new oil tank had a weep where the oil supply fitting was soldered in.

I bought this tank off EBay, shipped out of Richmond BC, suburb of Vancouver, it cost about $500 CDN and it’s 30 litre capacity. It has a 90 minute max timer and a separate heat control that heats to 50C. I can’t get phosphoric acid here anymore, it was such a great rust remover. Evaporust works well but it’s slow, the ultrasonic tank with the heat turned up significantly speeds up the rust removal. I thought 30 litres would be large enough for anything I needed but once I see what it can do it could always be larger! 

One or two Dishwasher soap packets dropped into the ultrasonic cleaner work great for grease removal and the grease mops up off the top of the tank solution with a piece of paper towel.

I noticed the solder joints on the oil tank, good advice to pressure test it, will do that before I get it painted.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on December 27, 2020, 03:34:08 PM
I can’t get phosphoric acid here anymore, it was such a great rust remover.

Can you buy "milkstone remover" at a farm supply store? The main ingredient is phosphoric acid.

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 27, 2020, 07:35:55 PM
Can you buy "milkstone remover" at a farm supply store? The main ingredient is phosphoric acid.

Thanks for the tip, I will look into that.

I was working on the rear fender today, the rivets that attach the forward bracket (near the swing arm) were rotted around the heads, I ground them off to replace them with some new reverts I have and once off and bracket removed the sheet metal around the rivets was paper thin and tiny holes all over the place, Damn I hate rust. I made up a new backing plate from steel sheet and tried my luck at welding it in place from the rear. Its pretty hard to weld tin foil! Hours spent with the smart MIG using argon/CO2 shield gas and I still managed to keep burning through the super thin steel where rust had eaten away at the steel. So frustrating, there just isn't any good steel left in this area. I could make up a whole new fender section and splice it in but I think I am going to try and find a better one. The Astorino rear fender is unique to the couple years that the rear shock absorber Airone was produced but there is one on Ebay Italy from a German seller, going to try and work a deal on it.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 28, 2020, 06:32:49 PM
When I first got my 1949 Airone I asked Valenti to send me the engine parts I should replace as a rule, he sent me engine case bearings, seals and gaskets, Magneto coil, points and bearings and Dynamo bearings and solid state reg/rec.

Stripped and cleaned, gave the magnet a fresh coat of paint. While holding the armature and rotating the output shaft it gave me a real good jolt, the bike ran before I stripped it down so I think these replacements may not have been required right away but may as well overhaul it.

(https://i.postimg.cc/RC72yk2s/4-AC26-FFD-F425-4-CFD-8770-EFFCB1-AD2349.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CdKvfQhk)

will replace the bearings and coil

(https://i.postimg.cc/Vv9yFpPh/10-C33-BFE-9989-44-EB-AF6-B-C41601-B08-D82.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wfNmxMP)

stripped the dynamo, will replace the bearings

(https://i.postimg.cc/wvmY13fg/AE155-F04-0-CEF-4901-B879-A6-DF9-B779556.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXmT5cbT)

There were on wiring instructions for the solid state reg/rec. five wires, 51, 61, C, SP and negative

(https://i.postimg.cc/zG7zNLMQ/101-D5-E5-F-FE56-40-BF-9-D83-7-A86-D6782048.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCLszqdb)

51 and 61 go to the terminals on the cap, C, SP and negative are uncertain, Am I correct to assume that C and SP are the two wires from the filed coil that is anchored to the zinc plated tube body? and if so which is C and which is SP?

Negative I am guessing is the ground lug on the body of the brush plate = reg/rec plate.

(https://i.postimg.cc/1tcM7Q4D/C799-D3-C1-06-E9-4-D9-C-BFAF-B0-CD6-D51-F479.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k6GxDLQ5)

(https://i.postimg.cc/43ngTWpK/342-EA99-A-0-A63-4483-B076-89-D5-C4874-F0-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kVrZQF19)

(https://i.postimg.cc/yYzsSXC5/F9-A7-EF38-6346-428-D-8-C85-E9-B578-CCC10-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V543xt6B)

(https://i.postimg.cc/NFRtzLmp/5896-C843-5855-413-B-BA25-229259525-C98.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRy7dVhr)

can anyone confirm how to connect this solid state reg/rec unit?
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 28, 2020, 09:08:26 PM
Wow - your cleaning process works great!

SP goes to the armature, it is not a field wire.

Campo = field.  One of the field wires (C-) is grounded to the dynamo body next to the grounded brush.  The other field wire goes to the regulator, this is C+.  Connect it to C+ (C) on the solid state reg.  I've seen a reference that the field wires are black and dark brown to indicate positive and negative (don't know which but could maybe find the reference for you), but an electrical engineer said polarity shouldn't matter and it's worked on the 2 I've done. 

SP - spazzola = brush. The SP wire attaches to the insulated brush.  Check to make sure the U-shaped bridge that crosses over the bearing housing (insulated brush and SP wires screw to it) is not grounded - it's just trapped under the cover screw.

For the picture below:  Red circle is positive field, connect C to it.  Black circle is negative field.   Black arrow is grounded brush.  Red arrow is insulated U-shaped bridge.  If insulated brush is connected to other side, then SP can be connected here.

(https://i.ibb.co/3fFY58h/Dynamo2-Ink.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3fFY58h)


The field, armature and reg all share a ground through the body of the dynamo.  Make sure you have good battery connections - if you lose the ground the dynamo over charges blows the bulbs and cooks the solid state reg and it smells like burnt fish for a week!   :shocked:
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 28, 2020, 09:31:09 PM
Thanks so much Shawn! Great explanation and very helpful!

I put the whole dynamo in the ultrasonic cleaner in Evaporust for 30 minutes to free the rusted case bolts, Vapor blaster cleaned up the rest in a couple minutes. Any tips for pulling those tiny bearings off the dynamo and magneto? I don’t think I have a bearing puller that small, maybe I can make up a tiny puller.

Valenti sent me the new rotating coil for the magneto, is there a condenser hiding inside there?

Thanks again!

Jim

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 28, 2020, 09:33:48 PM
Your mag parts look beautiful!  Make sure you replace the capacitor.  Keep track of the polarity of the wires and housing as you take it apart.

This is a late BL with a canned capacitor (earlier versions were just a stack of conductors and insulators in the same housing).  Note that one end is insulated and the other not.  The close distance between the insulated terminals and the brass end cap is the safety gap.  You want to maintain that gap - too little and it will limit the high voltage output, too much and it can overload your windings if the plug lead is not grounded.  If you have the older style I can post pictures on how to maintain the safety gap.

(https://i.ibb.co/CvQpF8X/IMG-6624.jpg) (https://ibb.co/CvQpF8X)


Here are the replacement caps soldered together and encapsulated in epoxy.  I didn't set the epoxy into the endcap because they may need to be removed in the future.  Once the epoxy puck was made I glued that in with some rtv so it wouldn't wiggle and work the capacitor leads.

(https://i.ibb.co/5ktpF89/IMG-6623.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5ktpF89)    (https://i.ibb.co/N7Wn3p7/IMG-6625.jpg) (https://ibb.co/N7Wn3p7)    (https://i.ibb.co/VL3Rc6r/IMG-6631.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VL3Rc6r)    (https://i.ibb.co/9TXMSB4/IMG-6632.jpg) (https://ibb.co/9TXMSB4)    (https://i.ibb.co/Kcg3Gkp/IMG-6635.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Kcg3Gkp)




Here is the link and info on the recommended capacitors:

http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/455839/3 (http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/455839/3)
Recommendation for a Replacement Capacitor
Since not everyone may want to read the details of the tests described below, I'll go straight to the conclusion. The capacitors I recommend as replacements for use in Lucas, BTH, and other rotating armature magnetos are a pair Vishay 0.082 uF "AC and Pulse Double Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitors," manufacturer's number BFC238320823. These capacitors have pulsed current and voltage ratings of 1400 V/us and 630 VDC with a maximum operating temperature of 105 oC. These specifications comfortably exceed those needed to survive for years in the hostile electrical environment of a magneto. They are available from Digi-Key for $1.35 each ($2.70 for the pair required to be soldered in parallel) under part number BC1883-ND.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 28, 2020, 09:43:21 PM
Thanks again!  I don’t think Valenti sent condensers but I will check again in my parts box of new bits. I will look for the condensers online, certainly cheap enough! 
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 28, 2020, 10:23:44 PM
Get the condensers recommended by magnetoman Charles Falco in the link above.  He's U of Ariz physicist, old motorbike enthusiast (Goldstars etc.) and magneto expert.  Apparently not all capacitors can survive the voltage spikes, heat and forces in a rotating coil magneto.

I used my smallest puller to pull inner race off the shaft.  Had to modify the pusher.  Outer races I may have had to use an inside puller from harbor freight - about $60 USD.  Don't remember for sure.  Keep track of the packing behind the race for end play.


Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 29, 2020, 05:51:54 PM
Looks like the new armature Valent sent is complete with the condensers, just had to swap the alignment pins over from the old unit

(https://i.postimg.cc/5yfMpM3F/16-A22459-9-C3-D-4616-BF88-2-ECBEED4-B2-FE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygp5Yt2V)

I did manage to get my smallest bearing puller on to the old bearings to pull them off the magneto and dynamo

(https://i.postimg.cc/FFjJWg9y/568-C3993-8741-4208-899-B-4-AE22337-E24-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WxRWG0N)

The blind bearing races came out of the castings after bringing them up to 300F in the oven then a quick rap on the bench and out they fell with the packings

(https://i.postimg.cc/t4bkv4QT/37140-DE4-873-B-4-B74-B6-AF-983-F2-A493446.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mvs1vxG2)

Cleaned out the bearing recess, reheated the castings and put the races in the fridge, then they along with the cleaned packing the races fell into place

After reassembling the magneto there was too much slop in the armature, pulled it apart and added a thicker shim, much better

(https://i.postimg.cc/GhxG2PVL/951-CACAA-E3-AE-4-B91-BAA6-1-D152-DE777-C5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLDLNCJp)

the steel parts, screws, points cap and points sprung retainer were blasted, polished and coated with satin powder

(https://i.postimg.cc/qRqCD9vg/A142411-F-D3-F5-4-F86-8596-E11-E76510-F91.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwV5L3Nr)

The satin powder looks more like aged steel because I heat the oven a bit warmer than normal, up to 400F and cure the powder for an extra 5 minutes, I like the aged look of the clear steel as opposed to a normal clear finish

(https://i.postimg.cc/131wRCJY/296-C5913-5-D14-4-B41-872-C-D43367-AA408-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N5b5p4h1)

Dynamo came together easy enough after Shawn explained the wiring, I just opted to spray paint the body silver rather than send it out for zinc plating, clear powder coated the fasteners, bearings went in as per the magneto

(https://i.postimg.cc/hjdGNgTy/268180-D8-9282-4822-9649-671227750-DCE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0M9xJTtD)

(https://i.postimg.cc/vDFgBTL6/F9-DBDC6-D-93-A9-43-A3-95-B6-5-BF0-A8-F517-CE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/n92cSHWH)

Dynamo is done, hope it all works

(https://i.postimg.cc/HsybgD4y/49-D38-BD3-12-D7-40-B6-BD42-02-C01748-F8-ED.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXJjTzzS)

the horn will go back together next

(https://i.postimg.cc/W3yqBXd8/FF5574-B0-C244-4-C3-A-9753-BA8854416516.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JhCWdBf)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Turin on December 29, 2020, 11:32:32 PM
 :popcorn: WOW.

 BTW, how are you addressing the pitting? I ask because i have a set of Ambo Headlight ears that I cleaned with Evaporust, and they look similar to that fender.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 30, 2020, 12:13:47 AM
I just opted to spray paint the body silver rather than send it out for zinc plating, clear powder coated the fasteners, bearings went in as per the magneto

Apologies if you already know this!  The dynamo needs to ground through the body - that is how the regulator, field and armature are grounded and how the regulator "knows" the battery voltage.  If it is not grounded through the crankcase and frame it will over charge and over heat the regulator or armature.  I made this mistake on the Ariel the first time I did it!  (The magneto also needs to ground through the crankcase.)

You can check that the dynamo "motors" with a 6 volt battery.  My recollection is that you disconnect the regulator and connect a jumper between the positive field lead and the insulated brush (but double check me!)  you can find instructions on line.  "Motoring" the dynamo does 3 things.  It proves the armature and field windings are working, the internal connections are correct if it rotates the correct direction and it remagnetizes it if the residual magnetism has been lost.  Apparently there are some dynamo problems that "motoring" doesn't reveal, but every one that motored has also charged.

The mag and dynamo parts look great!  That is a home powdercoating setup?

Find someone to remagnetize your magneto after it is reassembled.  Old farm tractor clubs often know someone who can do it.

Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 30, 2020, 10:10:12 AM
:popcorn:BTW, how are you addressing the pitting? I ask because i have a set of Ambo Headlight ears that I cleaned with Evaporust, and they look similar to that fender.

I no longer do my own painting if I can avoid it, I just hate the mess and smell, the body man / painter that does my projects uses a metal etch primer followed with a two part putty filler, not the same as typical bondo, and a lot of epoxy filler primer. I prepped my Gilera 106 fenders this way in my shop just to remind myself how much I hate paint prep!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 30, 2020, 10:18:46 AM
Apologies if you already know this!  The dynamo needs to ground through the body - that is how the regulator, field and armature are grounded and how the regulator "knows" the battery voltage.  If it is not grounded through the crankcase and frame it will over charge and over heat the regulator or armature.  I made this mistake on the Ariel the first time I did it!  (The magneto also needs to ground through the crankcase.) The mag and dynamo parts look great!  That is a home powdercoating setup?

Find someone to remagnetize your magneto after it is reassembled.  Old farm tractor clubs often know someone who can do it.

thanks again Shawn, I should have known the dynamo case was zinc plated for a good reason🙁 oh well the dynamo will get disassembled and the silver paint stripped, off to the plater! I should have done it right the first time. That will give me the chance to test it as per your thorough description.

I do most of my own powder paint on small bits in my old kitchen wall oven in the shop. The black on the dynamo cap, the magneto and horn are spray painted with POR-15 direct to metal black paint. POR-15 is very tough and since I did not pull the guts out of the horn, powder coating/ oven was not an option

I have a buddy into old Ford tractors I will check with for magnetizing the magneto.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 30, 2020, 05:46:14 PM
Pulled apart the dynamo, stripped the paint off the case and drilled out the machine screw that retains the field coil. Those screws never want to come out easy on a Bosch starter motor, same design so I just dill them out a matter of course.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cCSKRpLk/F5583-AAC-16-D7-4361-A92-A-ADB2-FF490-D60.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGs73DF9)

Since I am going to the plating shop I figured I may as well fill a tub, he charges me $80 for a tub of parts to get cad plated. Brake drums, foot pegs, steering stem, spokes etc, going to get plate prior to painting, I won't have to get the inside of the drums painted and it will coat the inside of the hubs,  hard to get to foot peg pivots etc.

(https://i.postimg.cc/hjxz7Dc7/9-F74-E1-DC-301-E-468-C-8476-C4151752905-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftzTGh3w)

horn back together

(https://i.postimg.cc/zGtRs2x3/CD2-D846-E-1844-4-ECB-876-E-6-C44-CBB5-AA99.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cv3HYhyN)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 05, 2021, 06:57:39 PM
A little progress for the start of the year, I dropped off a bin of pieces to get cad plated yesterday morning and at noon today the work was done! The local plating shop I use is just amazing.

I wanted the brake drums plated prior to getting the drums turned, no paint on the inside of the drum, new linings on the shoes and a matched arc of the finished shoe, dropped the front and rear brake assemblies off at the brake shop at the end of the day.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Sx5Ngz6N/2906-A66-D-5860-4-EAF-ADC8-3-E3-AF7683-F10.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v4rsBT2p)

I drilled out the steel rivets holding the fender brackets to the sheet metal fenders so I can get paint under the brackets, chose to plate the brackets before painting, re-plated the spokes and few other parts I decided to have protected, parts where some of the steel is not painted. Good You Tube videos showing how steel domed rivets are mushroomed using a proper tool bit in an air hammer and a hand held anvil on the side hat gets flattened, the bits are available for cheap on Ebay from China. New 1/4" diameter domes rivets will go back in.

Got the dynamo body back and the unit bench tested to run on 6V, works fine. Good web site in the UK - The Magneto Guys explained how to test the dynamo.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Bntn5C1V/B46-C2-B58-4733-4-BD1-B35-B-914-C6-E8-EA12-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3k5hYm1X)

I did my own powder coating on the black parts, seat frame, spring box, head light and tail light, some small pitting on the headlight  and tail light did not fill with powder, will sand them down and re=powder coat them again (the professional shop I use tells me I can coat over powder to three layers). I took the tin seat clips in for cad plating so I just need to rivet the fresh pieces back onto the good seat fabric and reassemble it with new rivets.

(https://i.postimg.cc/L69X5S4R/E2-C4-EB61-ED09-4-F84-BBE5-17-ECDBB3-A505.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kDH9Ykth)

I boxed up the parts that will get chrome plated (along with the flywheel) and sent them off to the chrome plating shop in Calgary.

(https://i.postimg.cc/d0yQpt6R/8-A1-C0104-9-B0-F-4-F4-E-9-C55-9-A2-D234-B5662.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sB3RZzt1)

Once the brakes are done all the rest of the steel parts go to the powder coater for bright red. Fenders, gas tank and oil tank get regular sprayed base / clear.

I bought a Beugler pin stripe machine from Eastwood Automotive to try my hand at pinstriping the red and gold lines on the fenders, oil tank and gas tank. I have a couple old Ducati red painted fenders to practice on. This [in stripe machine has been around since 1934, little has changed since it was first offered, really good You Tube videos showing how to use it.

(https://i.postimg.cc/NF1pzT2h/EA29-A44-E-4961-4030-A4-F2-DE6-E2-CC1-DB14.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wQd4DB1)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: patrick b on January 06, 2021, 04:42:32 PM
i am a new owner of a 1962 Moto Guzzi Lodola 235. Can someone tell me the best motor oil to use? I'm assuming straight 30wt but would like to hear from someone that knows more than me.
Also, the dipstick is on a screw cap on the sump. the stick slides up and down thru the cap. i assume there was originally a float that slid the stick up or down indicating oil level. any ideas on what to use for new float??
Really appreciate any help, thoughts , ideas.
best to all.
 
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 06, 2021, 05:19:05 PM
i am a new owner of a 1962 Moto Guzzi Lodola 235. Can someone tell me the best motor oil to use? I'm assuming straight 30wt but would like to hear from someone that knows more than me.
Also, the dipstick is on a screw cap on the sump. the stick slides up and down thru the cap. i assume there was originally a float that slid the stick up or down indicating oil level. any ideas on what to use for new float??
Really appreciate any help, thoughts , ideas.
best to all.

I suggest you join the Moto Guzzi Single group and post your question there, plenty of knowledgeable people on the singles group that can help

https://groups.google.com/g/guzzi-singles

Also if you need a manual this site has access to many Italian motorcycle manuals

https://www.rpw.it/Documentazione.htm

good luck with your Guzzi!

Jim
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 06, 2021, 05:26:47 PM
I put the seat back together today, the steel clips were re-plated and Charlie M. helped me find new split rivets. the original seat has no damage so I was glad to save it

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJCTjn1K/A4-E35144-DF44-45-F3-8-BB2-5-E4-C5-F4-FD5-CE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G8jQShLB)

(https://i.postimg.cc/RZ42wJhs/AFA8-A6-B8-DEB0-46-C7-A990-6-F98-F7350-C51.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCSdJzvB)

Chanel lock pliers work great for folding and pressing the steel straps around the seat frame while applying pressure over the center of the rivet head

(https://i.postimg.cc/GppN50kv/0649-BB07-923-E-4-F05-A842-9786-DD50-F502.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWjXWDp0)

Headlight shell still had remnants of pits after two passes of powder coat so I applied some two part filer putty and wet sanded it down, will coat with Por-15 Top Coat black to finish it

(https://i.postimg.cc/Jzxvx7B1/227-D9-DA6-AD6-F-4261-B314-F3-C97-B206-E1-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/21q08DwJ)



Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on January 06, 2021, 06:53:30 PM
i am a new owner of a 1962 Moto Guzzi Lodola 235. Can someone tell me the best motor oil to use? I'm assuming straight 30wt but would like to hear from someone that knows more than me.
Also, the dipstick is on a screw cap on the sump. the stick slides up and down thru the cap. i assume there was originally a float that slid the stick up or down indicating oil level. any ideas on what to use for new float??
Really appreciate any help, thoughts , ideas.
best to all.

You might get more information if you start your own thread in General Discussion. There are a number of Lodola owners on Wildguzzi.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on January 06, 2021, 10:28:13 PM
Your work is beautiful and thorough.  and that plater turned it around amazingly fast!

Congrats on the dynamo.  Was the brown field lead positive?
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 06, 2021, 10:49:59 PM
Your work is beautiful and thorough.  and that plater turned it around amazingly fast!

Congrats on the dynamo.  Was the brown field lead positive?

Thanks Shawn,

Yes the brown wire is positive. Testing was just like you suggested. I still need to take the magneto in to get magnetized. I bought a pair of rims off Italian EBay today, have heard nothing from Valenti or Retro in months. Soon I can’t go much further without more parts.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 08, 2021, 06:31:24 PM
Valenti sent some parts for the carb, new bits on the bottom except for the slide, carb has been ultrasonic cleaned

(https://i.postimg.cc/HkTmJ3bL/5-C8-F7-B2-E-B6-C4-4-F14-8368-A7-F12353625-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jX99RK8)

The slide was sticking in the body, I used 1000 grit wet / dry to sand smooth the body bore and then push the slide in and remove. noting the witness marks on the brass slide, then sand down the high spots on the slide and repeat over and over again until the slide slid down to the bottom and smoothly raised up, took a couple hours of gentle sanding.

(https://i.postimg.cc/y8nH09Ty/53-A9-FD52-7-F11-4291-B2-EC-7-D0357072-E91.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSWHTSHS)

The body and remote bowl has been painted as per the original but the colour should more silver

(https://i.postimg.cc/CLGYL9Bt/50-BCA22-E-A6-D3-4-C91-9-E14-3-E0-D476-E4594.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nChN3R1Y)

(https://i.postimg.cc/pXbRvPTz/F4362-A9-C-AFBD-47-DA-A58-A-D70-EFEF1-EE26.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhrHbWVt)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 09, 2021, 10:14:15 PM
Assembled the headlight shell, replaced most of the wires and the PVC sheathing. Shell was finished with a couple coats of POR-15 gloss black top coat over the powder coat base

(https://i.postimg.cc/v8k27MnZ/29-B72-F3-E-FF7-F-4-AE3-9-EDF-F4-F57785-D6-B0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9PjrWzW)

the red and green plastic lenses were held in place with a rubber ring, long since turned rock hard and fell apart upon disassembly, I fitted thick rubber O rings in their place but will need to look for a pair of flat sided rubber O rings to snug them up to the shell.

(https://i.postimg.cc/6TxycD9m/39-A16-D4-E-1908-4-FC0-B272-A4-EF84-E8-B877.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkGrsCky)

I am looking for a new 6V festoon bulb that snaps into the fitting on the switch plate, anyone have a source for these, everyone I have are too big or too small.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on January 09, 2021, 11:26:26 PM
Guzzi seemed to use festoon bulbs for fuses too.  I've seen a bulb in one and a ceramic fuse in another.  Let me know where you find them - I had to repair a fuse!   :tongue:

BTW when Amal carb bodies distort enough to pinch the slide it is because the mounting bolts have been over tightened on a soft gasket.  Over tightening bends the flange and distorts the body.  Don't re-surface the flange or the next time you mount the carb it will distort the carb body more.  (BTDT!)  I have successfully inserted a long wooden dowel of the correct diameter through the carb body and then used it to press the flange against a flat surface and was able to correct the distortion some.
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 10, 2021, 04:20:42 PM
Over tightening bends the flange and distorts the body.  Don't re-surface the flange or the next time you mount the carb it will distort the carb body more.

Good advice, thanks,

Picked off a couple small jobs today, powder coated the center stand and licence plate frame, the plate frame was very rusted, the plate will hide it but it would be good to find a better one.

(https://i.postimg.cc/FK2d9xWN/1-AF7-DBB1-F5-C2-49-AC-85-A6-90-BF1465-D21-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcy2j7W5)

One of the thin metal plugs on the backside of the fork tube lower leg went AWOL, I made a thin steel plug and welded it in trying to make use of my crude TIG skill

(https://i.postimg.cc/JzpYdsTb/D70-E8-A62-F571-4-C03-8227-AC1310309208.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v46v4ZwB)


This is the plate that was on the bike when I got it, I wonder if it represents a government agency vehicle?


(https://i.postimg.cc/vH6KT8Zy/9-F19-F8-A6-A3-AA-4830-BBBA-99192-D9038-D2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6ytc1XZb)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Dave Swanson on January 10, 2021, 07:08:29 PM
Wow! That plate looks like new!
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 12, 2021, 04:38:21 PM
Knocked off a small job today, built a new replica wire harness, British Wiring in the USA supplies all the wire in various gauges and colours sold by the meter, the pvc sheathing in various sizes and all the crimp connectors, no order too small and great service. They carry every possible wire colour combination you can think of to replicate an original wire harness.

http://www.britishwiring.com/

(https://i.postimg.cc/BbWnt0wc/40454-BDB-E618-4764-A1-C0-C2-AAF8128-FD1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JHSnqGj)

I had bought a new Aprilia headlight shell a couple years ago hoping it would fit a CEV bucket (it didn't) and promptly forgot I had it, turns out it is the exact one I need for the Airone, a faint bell went off in my head before I sent the original one off to be plated

(https://i.postimg.cc/cHwfxYRF/36-B17005-7-D3-F-4-F49-A903-BCD2305-D1-EDA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34rk9kbG)

(https://i.postimg.cc/L5SLnXv2/C436-C46-B-6-DCB-4501-A311-CBC26-F9-DC299.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TLkpsTZ4)
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: 750S3 on January 13, 2021, 04:08:37 PM
Hi Jim,
the CFS on the licence plate stands for Corpo Forestale dello Stato. A government forestry guard corp. task with the protection of wild habitats and forests.
Luca
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 14, 2021, 10:01:09 AM
Hi Jim,
the CFS on the licence plate stands for Corpo Forestale dello Stato. A government forestry guard corp. task with the protection of wild habitats and forests.
Luca

Thanks Luca!

Jim
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 14, 2021, 03:18:46 PM
I pulled the tool box hinge pin out of one of the boxes with no effort, the second one would not budge. The pin one the second box had a little bit of brazing on the ends of the pins, I heated up the brass to drive the pin out but the heat of the torch melted the brass and one of the hinges just fell apart along with a good inch of the base of the door, not good!
After fretting about it for a day and deciding to not buy reproductions ( 200 Euro for a pair) I cleaned off the steel and slowly built up the bottom lip of the door with TIG, then machined out the weld from the concave inside lip and filled the outside to profile. I used a small length of 20 gauge sheet metal, heated red hot and folded over a spoke to make a hinge, leaving about 1mm of leg on the bottom to meet up with the door. I fitted the spoke through the door and the 'loose' hinge, clamped it all in place, crossed my fingers and braised the door to the hinge. The top hinge is the new piece. The TIG  / filler rod patch is very hard to make out but it runs the length of the hinge and extends about 3/4" past and forms the entire vertical leg of the door.

(https://i.postimg.cc/KzsyS5v4/C36-C468-E-6817-4432-B50-F-E8-B03683-D69-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDJFjZXW)

Now if I had just left the pin in place I wouldn't have had to do any of this :thewife: My painter likes to separate tool box lids from their bases and fit new brass rod. Its not perfect but I am pretty pleased with the save.

I have been looking through the 47, 48 and 49 parts catalogues and based upon this bike having the non finned rear brake drum I think it is a 1948 or perhaps very early 49 before they changes to the finned drum. Its not a 47 as the parts manual shows the exposed valve springs in 47. So I think I will call this a 1948 from now on unless some one can confirm the date by the serial number for me;  frame stamped M*22248*
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 18, 2021, 06:44:18 PM
Retired the original Airone header and muffler, after bead blasting the black paint / rust off it the high temp bondo or perhaps epoxy filler showed itself in many places on the muffler, a shot of silver paint and I hung it up in the shop as Guzzi 'art', one more series of parts to order .....

(https://i.postimg.cc/J4zyPpTz/CB6-E1833-5-AA9-4151-BE17-782-D0-A74-F114.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDCHmtFJ)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on January 22, 2021, 08:17:12 PM
Outstanding toolbox repair.  You are learning those TIG skills!  And good tip on BritishWiring - thanks. 
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 23, 2021, 11:35:56 AM
Outstanding toolbox repair.  You are learning those TIG skills!  And good tip on BritishWiring - thanks.

Thanks Shawn,  I heard from Retro yesterday, my last batch of GTV parts are in the mail Monday!  Valenti order is still coming, lots of small GTV parts in that order. No word yet on where my Airone order is at. While waiting on parts I have kept busy repainting the shop and a big clean up.
Painted the drywall partitions, hung up and organized posters and wiped down everything, I know I am bored.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rs0kbBYH/BAF5-A229-F5-F9-4439-9744-F7-BC3-CCD53-D7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBbmBzWK)

(https://i.postimg.cc/cH5WFxTY/E4-C63231-E5-B0-443-B-AC67-EB93-F5149374.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYfGXMc6)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on January 27, 2021, 10:00:11 PM
Nice clean shop!  Attention to detail.  Mine has Ariel parts all over the place! 
Title: Re: 1949 Airone - restoration
Post by: Klinkhammer on January 28, 2021, 01:10:55 AM
I am looking for a new 6V festoon bulb that snaps into the fitting on the switch plate, anyone have a source for these, everyone I have are too big or too small.

Try here
https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Glawster on January 28, 2021, 10:04:58 AM
Jim, did you settle on a paint code for your Airone?  I only ask as I'm restoring a friend's Falcone.  According to feedback from the Guzzi Singles forum RAL 3020 Traffic Red is the best match.  Well our painter has used this and I think it's rather orange.  Certainly it's very different from the colour of my own Falcone, but I have no idea if this is correct either.  Anyway Phil (the owner) is happy with the colour so that's what we're going with...but it does seem a bit orangey.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50884100078_c86930fa23_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwsjbj)20210128_153416 (https://flic.kr/p/2kwsjbj) by Derek Wardell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154993838@N08/), on Flickr

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50884922507_c5642c9e18_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kwwwE8)20210128_153323 (https://flic.kr/p/2kwwwE8) by Derek Wardell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154993838@N08/), on Flickr

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 28, 2021, 03:44:16 PM
that looks a lot brighter than what I had imagined the colour to be. The red inside the Airone tool box lids appears to be original and its certainly darker. I am waiting on the hubs / drums to come back from the brake shop with new linings fitted and arced / turned drums before I can send pars off to paint.

(https://i.postimg.cc/7LDdkCRK/44-CD62-BB-54-E7-4006-8-D33-F03576-F3-A00-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G47qPpdD)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Glawster on January 29, 2021, 03:09:44 AM
Ah that colour looks more like Amaranth than red.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 29, 2021, 09:42:39 AM
Ah that colour looks more like Amaranth than red.

The poor quality image from my I phone shows darker than it is. Other than the gas tank the bike had original paint, sun bleached a bit but still a deep red. Pictures at the start of the post show the original colour, inside of tool boxes and tool box lids match. GUZZI may have used various red paints over the years and this being a 1948 may have been a darker red than later models. According to the service manual the original factory paint was cellulose, oven baked, no clear coat or UV inhibitors back then! Red paint fades, bleaches etc, more than most any other colour and reds tend to chalk and/or fade to an orange tint.
 
The original paint on my 57 Cardellino is in very good shape but has lost its sheen and turned much darker (towards a brown tint) with age, the paint on the frame under the tank is still fairly bright and a much shaper red. So many variables of temperature, humidity, sun exposure etc to effect paint differently from one region to another. I don't think there is a wrong shade of red to apply but from seeing the bikes in the Guzzi museum most current restorations (mine included) paint finishes are far brighter and deeper than what the factory produced.

The Buddy Stubs Harley Davidson museum in Phoenix AZ has both a Falcone and a Gilera Saturno 500, they appear to be original and the red paint is dull and the quality of the finish is not great. There is also a Norton Commando on display, all original red / silver paint and the sheen and quality is dreadful by todays standards.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 05, 2021, 02:46:47 PM
A wee bit of progress, the chrome plating is done and parts returned to me, very happy with the work, the arrow on the flywheel has been retained with a sharp imprint.

(https://i.postimg.cc/pXYRtrgx/IMG-0076.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGn9Nrrd)

The local brake shop has had my shoes and drums for going on two months now, 'he is getting to it', told me the rear hub was bent and he is straightening it.
Can not proceed with powder coating the frame and hubs until I get the brake parts back.... still waiting on Valenti for parts, I think its four months and counting now, good thing I have lots of other projects, some of them motorcycle related.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on March 07, 2021, 11:04:00 PM
The plater did a nice job - looks great.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 08, 2021, 04:20:20 PM
I got the spokes back from bright zinc platting, black oxide Caswell and soaking in ACF 50 before they go in the oven, The Caswell did not take as well to the zinc platting as bare carbon steel, impurities in Zinc??

(https://i.postimg.cc/3x9hbyV8/IMG-0084.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/87Fx7CT9)

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 09, 2021, 01:38:33 PM
Well the black oxide / ACF-50 just didn't work too well on the fresh zinc plated spokes so I vapour blasted them clean and decided on flat black powder coat.

I have this simple spoke hanging plate cut from 1/8" steel plate,

Spokes pass through the plate, nipples threaded on so just a few threads are visible below then cover the nipples with high heat masking tape

(https://i.postimg.cc/7L8WkBt3/IMG-0085.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/21GwdxDy)

My DIY powder spray operation with the high tech hangers laying across a ladder hung on the wall

(https://i.postimg.cc/tT9v1sj7/IMG-0086.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HkSTNjM)

Then transfer the plate with the spokes into the oven, 400 F for twenty minutes

(https://i.postimg.cc/MHTsDgXS/IMG-0087.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZKtRShS)

After cooling and removing the masking tape a fresh set of black spokes

(https://i.postimg.cc/vBXq5GYh/IMG-0088.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vggtsF6x)

Clean up is just opening the door and using compressed air to blow the area clean, doesn't get any simpler than that.

DIY powder coating is so simple even I can pull it off with good results again and again. No fumes, no drying time, will last a very, very long time and its cheap as well.

Eastwood Automotive is my source for all things powder. You can probably pay for the electrostatic gun and masking tape doing one or two jobs, I have had this for about ten years now and it still works great.

I use an old residential wall oven I get for next to nothing on the cheap adds but a toaster oven will work just fine for small stuff.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Rough Edge racing on March 09, 2021, 05:18:42 PM
 coming along nicely
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on March 15, 2021, 10:40:12 PM
That powder coating setup is compelling.  Spokes look great.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 23, 2021, 05:49:20 PM
It took ten weeks but the brake linings have been replaced and arced the drums turned, The local brake specialty shop was super busy this winter and my little old motorcycle job was on the back burner but these folks do a fantastic job and the brakes should be better than when they left the factory. The brake drums and hubs were zinc plated.

(https://i.postimg.cc/T3RBZgqF/095-CE5-B7-8-DC1-4-C04-BA65-A5978-A2-E55-D5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svNnWBL4)

(https://i.postimg.cc/25yM5Ytx/4720-DB20-9935-4-C7-D-A9-CE-E9-AE91-EC71-F1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JywPTfMy)

Had to go with thicker linings to be able to slightly turn the drums

(https://i.postimg.cc/vZ3CMT0B/ED9-E7070-B342-4-D8-C-A992-6-EEBC98-A4856.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZSm9ycc)

A small box of parts arrived today from Retro; all the fork and shock seals and the wheel bearings, I can finaly get started on painting the chassis parts and then buildng wheels.

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Dave Swanson on March 24, 2021, 09:44:59 AM
Ought to stop better than it ever has!
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 04, 2021, 07:14:29 PM
The fenders on my Airone were in pretty bad shape, plenty of rust round the bracket rivets, paper thin steel in places. I was able to find a good used front fender, the Airone front fender was unchanged from the first sprung hydaulic fork design after WWII until the end of production. The rear fender is another storey, the early post war model (Astorino - rear hydraulic shock absorbers) was short lived and the fender and mounting brackets have many differences from the the later designs that utilized the scissor friction damper setup.

I managed to find an Astorino rear fender on German Ebay but there was a mixup and the seller sent me a front fender and then to make matters worse he sold the rear fender I needed after shipping the wrong piece to me, I managed to come to a resolution but I still did not have a correct rear fender. Another Ebay seller in Italy had a nice used fender for the later type Airone so I bought that thinking I could swap the brackets from my original fender to the replacement and all would be well.

Turns out the later model fender has many differences, unpainted fender for the Astorino, the painted fender for the later type

All the brackets and mounting holes are different, fitted the Astorino brackets, I had new stainless 6mm rivets, I ended up spot welding them in place on the backside

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQg69rm1/DF319-E46-8819-4-EDB-A6-DC-4-E55-CDBD018-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GH4rv5wc)

(https://i.postimg.cc/X7Z2TWjs/7-FE7445-C-A7-F8-4693-8078-2-E26-C1-C82-F94.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KR2rMdgT)

I thought I could take apart the pressed fender parts and swap the side panels from my old fender then the brackets would fit,
The sweep of the curves is different but I could make part of the side panel fit, the sides came off without too much drama, I made a steel plate jig to straighten the locking seam

(https://i.postimg.cc/j5sg9J2f/9-F14-DB80-DE43-4281-8-ABB-52-A731245-F75.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KSQHyz4)

Then I removed the side panels from the replacement fender but decided to splice in 2/3 of the old panel and make a seam behind the tool box, 1/3 of the side panel profile is close to equal, Getting the sides off the replacement fender was much more difficult but they did finaly budge, made the splice cuts, refitted the lock seam and hammered the joints closed and tack welded the panels like the originals

(https://i.postimg.cc/YCDCj1Kr/4095-B071-0-BBC-4691-A802-A0635-FDA0-ACB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/757kWJZd)

Took a day but I got both sides roughed up, brackest fitted and tool boxes mounted for trial fit, I need to build up the rear subframe and mount the fender then dry build the rest of the bracketry and fix the rest of the rivets, then I can dissasemble it all and finish the welding and body work prior to paint

(https://i.postimg.cc/zBgBs3QJ/93-FEE474-A188-4-CCF-AB45-D1926038-DF5-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G8bdY3rN)

I think it will turn out Ok after body filler and paint

(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0B9MMcQ/E2-EFDF24-069-D-4-B33-B1-D3-ADBB7-ED3-F4-E6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDL8RXwv)

I have been MIG welding up all the old bracket holes and grinding the welds, more holes still to fill and the cross section curvature of the fenders is also slightly different so the tool box brackets need the holes elongated to level the tool boxes then I can rivet the tool box brackets to the fender

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 06, 2021, 05:31:47 PM
Another day of fitting, grinding, welding and drilling, I should have fitted the fender to the chassis before I welded anything, lots of little rework to get everything to line up

none of the holes in the newer fender line up with anything, I ended up welding all the holes up in the replacement fender, mounting all of the chassis parts and fender brackets, placed the fender over the supports and drilled new holes through the fender

(https://i.postimg.cc/SNRPdtz0/BDF06-A54-5385-4-D6-C-8-A1-B-4-CFFCCFE3-AD9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nC8Tc2kT)

Stainless rivets welded to the backside of the brackets

(https://i.postimg.cc/zBN3Nh1N/C1-ECBDCF-96-BB-4-DE1-9-C30-5-E76-D493-F968.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBMbJH2g)

I am going to try something new for paint prep, the powder coaster I use are doing a lot of high build powder primer, they tell me ist sand real nice and they can keep applying more coats fo primer between sandings.

(https://i.postimg.cc/xCP81d0z/55-F628-DE-762-D-423-C-B5-C6-76288-FFF4062.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGp424Bj)

Even though I have stripped the paint off the parts and sanded the crap out of the steel I want the professionals to go over all the pieces in their media blast room and cook out the oils in the oven before they apply the first coat of primer,

(https://i.postimg.cc/FK31wZ8G/D6-FEFFDA-1-CB0-4-B15-929-E-BE5821833-E44.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZMFqjFf)

I have bought a can of very high temp epoxy body filler from Eastwood Automotive, its good to 1000 degrees F,

(https://i.postimg.cc/WzpXzSkw/p10288z.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)

it apparently fills and sands like typical bondo, I need to fill in the panel seams I made in the rear fender and skim coat over the welded up holes.

Parts go to the powder coaters this week!

Retro in Italy came through for me with a big parts order of everything I could think of for the Airone, its going to be X-Mas in April!
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on April 09, 2021, 10:33:20 PM
Great metal working - a tough job.  Your brakes look better than new!  Why the zinc plating?  Never heard of anyone doing it.

Love getting a big box of fun from Italy.   :laugh:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 10, 2021, 08:47:11 AM
Quote from: SED link=topic=108253.msg1747938#msg1747938 date=1618025600 Why the zinc plating?  Never heard of anyone doing it.
[/quote

Only reason I plated the wheel hubs and drum was I did not want to paint the interior bits and this will prevent corrosion plus I had to fill a pail of parts to make an order with the plating shop so I figured why not. I plated most of the steering parts as well, they don’t get painted either hidden in the frame stem, overkill I know but it probably didn’t cost me anything.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 13, 2021, 05:15:53 PM
X-Mas morning today, Santa brought a big box of parts all the way from Italy

(https://i.postimg.cc/HsxNSZJ1/9-B1-E2715-0-AB4-4-E7-D-B95-F-BF3-D4502-A748.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3spvkSx)

Most of what I had asked for the Airone + some more GTV 500 engine parts, had to order a new cylinder and piston, new valves, guides and springs, rocker shafts, exhaust, rubber bits and so on

(https://i.postimg.cc/sgGNzM9n/05-BDE95-B-CA3-E-4-FA8-8355-A17-C6-EA1-BA59.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZ8THN5b)

I dropped the head off at the machine shop to have the new guides installed, reamed and the valve seats cut

(https://i.postimg.cc/yYLT4PSh/9-B1-C23-D1-B63-A-4867-8-D78-7-ABD92-AA89-B3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJz9ccdj)

Spread out the engine bottom end parts to start the reassembly, like the manual says reverse order of disassembly .... sure .. translated the 48' Airone service manual and have referred to the GTV translation that Patrick H. and Shaun D. prepared and have generously shared

(https://i.postimg.cc/jqQXvKxF/CC30-BC7-F-4-B30-4331-8-D65-2-D227-EAF037-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkymTG0c)

Refitted the sludge trap plug wit a new piece of stiff lockwire and locktight, assembled the rod on the crankshaft and retorqued the bolts, I could not get new con rod bolts, the old ones will have to do

(https://i.postimg.cc/QxQRpvw8/BDD633-A2-0-E81-4-B16-A393-9-E09-A956-BA6-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzKP0rwX)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Dwg3KRPj/D1-DE3-A88-FED1-4-E4-F-A6-D9-F9-DA5877-EC7-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjXVTYyH)

Replaced all the crank case bearings and felt seals, bearings in the freezer and the cases in the oven to get them to 300F

This socket keeps the felt seal centered on the bearing while the case cools

(https://i.postimg.cc/FRYM3z58/CABE6-C15-9-A4-A-44-BD-97-AE-2-E894-FD6-D298.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zb121JfF)

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQ2GmjLG/FF0-AB987-4-E48-4-CD9-9-ABE-B96981-ACD4-FD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QHNPtxJ6)

Now to re-read the manual again and figure out the fitting and measuring of the output cluster as it passes through the case
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 15, 2021, 08:33:57 PM
I spent half a day bolting the crank cases halves together, testing the shifting and then opening up the cases and trying to figure out how to set the shift drum.

(https://i.postimg.cc/fWPsq742/C199-BB0-A-C3-C1-4720-A72-A-4715-A868-E479.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qg2Wz3vy)

I had translated the 1946 Airone Service Manual to English and had the excellent translation of the 48 GTV prepared by Patrick H. and updated by Shaun D. to help me and though the manual covers the position of the shift shaft relative to the case internals, the positioning of the drum itself is vague. Guzzi was kind enough to score a line inside the case and stamp the number 4 (4th gear) inside the case as a reference to the toothed selector position, it is obviously imperative the shift drum forks are positioned for 4th gear.

The English translation regarding the placement of the shift drum is not very clear, for the benefit of anyone else who may be assembling a crankcase, I believe Guzzi is describing the assembly as follows:

Remove the gears form the transmission shafts to expose the two selector discs and pull them off the shafts, holding the selector drum in one hand and using your fingers to align the shift forks at appx. 12 and 2 o'clock, use a pair of channel locks to rotate the small gear at the underside of the selector drum fully clockwise, this will set the drum and forks at 4th gear position.

(https://i.postimg.cc/766vmhKr/D200-EFCF-5637-4-E08-B295-A06587-AE65-FC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Lqr0s9dx)

(https://i.postimg.cc/kgQd5k2z/8-B7-DA59-B-D77-D-48-F4-9-A57-E19899-FB34-FB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXtYyZb1)

Then place all three components; the selector drum and the output shaft and main shaft with the gears into the bearings and bushing in the case  while sliding the two selector rings that are sitting in the shift forks over the two transmission shafts, once all three components are set into the case then reinstall the gears that were above the selector rings, add the final shims. Make sure the fork shit shaft and toothed crescent have not moved from the scored line '4' inside the case.

I sealed the cases with flexible gasket maker, Honda in this case

(https://i.postimg.cc/WbRNbm9D/D5237-D66-0402-4-DC0-96-D9-35-B4-C54-EC55-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqR5gtx9)

If all is sitting correctly once the cases are joined and the shift selector mechanism is installed over the shift shaft the 4th gear indicator should align with the stationary score in the selector mechanism outer case.

(https://i.postimg.cc/fy1h3sjn/86-FE3-A11-03-DF-4-DBC-B7-D9-0-A17905-C49-AE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBKPhTzQ)

Clear as mud right!

Once all bolted together I temporarily installed the shift pedal and linkage rod and was able to shift back and forth from 4 ~ 1. The shifting take a pretty solid push to work but I attribute that to being a Guzzi transmission, no oil in the case and the gears are not rotating. Hopefully it shifts well once the bike is finished.

The machine shop finished replacing the valve guides, grinding the valve seats and they decked the head as well, only took a couple days, excellent service!


Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on April 17, 2021, 05:16:51 PM
Beautiful work!  And you have a constant mesh transmission.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 17, 2021, 08:56:52 PM
Thanks Shawn, you mentioned the constant mesh, I was surprised to find little evidence of wear on the dogs, based upon the general condition of the Airone I was expecting some chipped dogs.

I got a new piston and cylinder from Retro in Italy, the original cylinder had a deep cresent rust spot on the bottom from the rings rusting into the cylinder, too deep to over bore.

(https://i.postimg.cc/76BC8Wmb/3-F1927-EA-4-F7-D-480-A-A7-D2-98-CEF7-F82-BBC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bDtY13Xj)

The new guides had slightly larger heads on them, I had to ream the valve spring retainer plates to let the plate drop over the guide.

New valves, guides and springs

(https://i.postimg.cc/rz2R6fRt/2-E2-D1-DCF-C81-C-4-E84-86-A9-403-F550212-E7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gL428qDY)

when I took the engine apart I found a cap on the stem of the intake valve but no cap on the exhaust valve, should there be a cap on the exhaust stem as well?


I also replaced the rocker shafts, the chrome was pitted pretty bad and the chrome on the cap nuts was all pitted

(https://i.postimg.cc/MT4j56W5/CE15511-B-6-A3-C-4-F26-B474-79-B8718478-DE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YG69qwLL)

Fitting the existing head onto the new cylinder posed a problem, the fit was too tight, I blued the inside of the head mating surface and repeatedly bolted the head on as far as it would go without much pressure, removed the head and using a sanding wheel in a die grinder I sanded out the high spots, took a half dozen off/on passes to get it to fit snug

The push rod tube needed some sanding of the side of the base flange to allow for clearance to the side of the cylinder, the nuts are pretty worn out, may look for a new set

(https://i.postimg.cc/43WcKvqr/618-B8130-F5-D0-4-E3-F-9-AFD-CACFCD0-E481-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JyB0vX1q)

starting to look like a motor, still need to tackle the clutch, oil pump, fit the mag and dyno, carb .... I am putting this engine together very slowly, its all new to me, not that its a complex motor but there are prescribed clearances that need to be met and it seems I am doing a lot of fitting, measuring etc...

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYGpL2v4/D9-E96-D97-9-E7-F-4540-9-FD5-C145-A1-D02-A70.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsczQ86H)

One of the rocker cover bolts was buggered up on dissasembly, I am looking for one of the shorter bolts if anyone has a spare.

(https://i.postimg.cc/d1DyGkKD/72197-B19-E92-E-40-BE-92-FF-D1-A3-FBF8264-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2FRhKRp)

And I have searched for a missing head nut, its not a standard thread and none of my box of metric nuts has the correct thread pitch, anyone have a spare head nut?
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 18, 2021, 05:44:27 PM
Installed the cluch discs today, copper and steel clucth discs, I got these from Marco Valenti a couple years ago

(https://i.postimg.cc/yd8RhPhR/8414-D2-A4-6-E1-B-4512-BAE4-AB0-AD62-D30-CC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsNMpqPV)

The clutch rod passes through the output shaft to the opposite side of the crank case where a pair of big springs keep tension on the pressure plate, a knurled cap is adjustable by hand to set the compression on the pressure plate, a nice clean design if a bit odd

(https://i.postimg.cc/zXsnmT5m/27-B47-D48-1-E9-F-4-B0-E-9950-FE4-B7-AE21-F24.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzGtyhzQ)

I installed the magneto I had previoulsy rebuilt, I cut new galvanized sheet steel shims (not reusing the cut up Shell oil can sections that came with th bike) shims are needed to set the gear mesh to the cam gear

(https://i.postimg.cc/m2zQ68vN/7-DF497-AF-B61-A-4-F20-8426-284610-F7-EEC3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svzQM9Dv)

big thick oil seal soaked with grease

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hx6QFKW3/AF1-ABAC8-CE03-4932-8429-E559-FC287856.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9W9TfTW)

and this thick plastic spacer between the magneto and the crankcase

(https://i.postimg.cc/D0mqhg8h/9-A1-FD2-FD-97-DA-4422-B7-BF-50449217-E050.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LgKqBjtQ)

new cover gasket, the mag gear nut torqued down

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYyrTBs7/4529-B4-C1-EB5-C-4-A8-D-A475-C6-A688-E17917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvXnygW6)

the oil pump and a couple of the oil lines installed

(https://i.postimg.cc/d3SjZfzD/BEEA73-A7-42-D1-43-B4-86-BE-5-AE610815-B0-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Fk3L2TFQ)

installed the rebuilt dynamo, one steel shim needed to set the gap to the main clutch gear

(https://i.postimg.cc/7Lg9tmTQ/F7134-A07-D056-485-A-8421-432-BDE683-C88.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JyzjG3xb)

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on April 18, 2021, 09:10:29 PM
Looking great!
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 19, 2021, 05:14:29 PM
Thanks Shawn

I had spun all the shafts and crank before I buttoned up the motor but after it was all bolted up the crank would rotate about 340 degrees, as if there was a piston stop holding the piston from its full 360 degree travel. I pulled the primary drive off, the transmission spins but not the crank, I pulled the cam off, still the crank will not spin 360 degrees so it was off with the head!

Spinning the crank the new cylinder jumped forward a mm or two so I pulled the cylinder off and compared it to the original.

The original piston has a cut out in the bore at the skirt, the new cylinder does not, that cut out allows the connecting rod to travel through 360 degrees, no idea why the new cylinder doe not have this

(https://i.postimg.cc/qR4jzpdw/7-DADF44-B-577-D-482-B-A5-A0-4-A48691374-A2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94gGk50w)

I made a jig to transfer the location of the cut out across to the new cylinder

(https://i.postimg.cc/k58p2jRJ/6-E1-E5-E2-A-DDD0-4-E88-BF8-C-02-BAF5-A07461.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZhNts4X)

(https://i.postimg.cc/MGy96vgX/887-C1-C9-A-7166-440-C-8057-30-F047-D2-A261.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Ty3VQYdX)

I bolted the cylinder tight to the engine to trial spin the crank

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQYykPG0/407-E5-A84-3-DC8-4205-B2-CE-AB1-BBDC8-C13-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Cz8mf11P)

I carefully filed down the new cut out and trial fitted it back on the engine, still a tiny bit of resistance, took a couple more trials of file work to get it right

Flywheel back on for fit, it needs to come off top get the center painted red

(https://i.postimg.cc/fTsNkjSf/B1240349-10-B4-4118-AFF2-55-BFFDF5006-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BtmyVFgj)

I needed to find a valve cap and I tried my local speed shop / machine shop, they directed me to Summit Racing, there are all kinds of valve lash caps on the Summit web site and ordered a couple different thickness to match the stem diameter of the Airone. I was also able to get some for my GTV 500 engine valve stems.

The valves stems on my 1948 Airone are 11/32” in diameter, I ordered a couple from Crane Cams 9942-12, 11/32” dia. Valve stem - .162” tall and a couple from Howard Cams – 93205-1, 11/32” valve stem, 0.80” tall

For my GTV 500 engine the valves stems are 3/8” diameter, orders a pair of Crane Cams 99422-2, 3/8” stem, .162” tall and a pair of Manley Cams 42108-1, 3/8” stem, 0.80” tall.





Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 21, 2021, 06:55:54 PM
After buttoning up the motor I find the shifting is sketchy, seems to stick. The assembly instructions set the transmission in 4th gear when fitting the gear clusters and shift drum so the tranmission needs to be down shiffted, it shifted down ok (not great) but it is almost impossibe to get it to shift back up.

I pulled the engine completely apart thinking it may be a shim issue, I removed the crank shaft, shift shaft, shift drum and lay shaft, just left the output shaft in place and bolted up the cases. Checking each shaft for play / binding I added each piece back in, swapped a couple shims, ground down the shift shaft coil spring a wee bit and it all felt good.

So that left the shift poistive lock mechanism that is secured to the end of the shift shaft on the exterior of the right engine case. This is an interesting mechanism, there are two sprung pawls that lock into a heavy steel body secured to the shift shaft and set with a woodruf key. When the shift pedal is depressed either up or down (heel / toe) a drum that nests into the main body will release a pawl on one side of the body and lock the opposite side pawl. When the opposite end of the shift pedal is pressed down the reverse occure, opposite pawl is released and opposed pawl locks.

(https://i.postimg.cc/fy1h3sjn/86-FE3-A11-03-DF-4-DBC-B7-D9-0-A17905-C49-AE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XBKPhTzQ)

This picture is looking straight down the center of the shift mechanism, the cover portion of the mechanism is removed and only one sprung pawl is installed. There are three surfaces that can wear; the sprung pawls, the heavy body notched to recieve the pawls and the cover itself which rotates and grabs the pawl forcing one pawl ro retract.

(https://i.postimg.cc/TPPGHtPs/EE7-D7709-C13-B-4-B77-97-A0-BF60541-F030-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kzPkCmj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/NMMNYxpm/F4498643-F711-4822-94-AD-37-FA1-B1550-E9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xkwG3Lr1)

It looks like everything is worn but the cover is the the worst, one side that mates to the pawl is badly worn, this is preventing the pawl from retracting and freezing the tranmission. With a lot of violence the pawl will retract but this is not a good situation.

This is a picture of the mechanism cover that contains the shift return spring. There are cut outs on each side and the leading edge of these cut outs depress a pawl as the shift pedal is pressed.

This side is in good shape, hence the transmission will shift up.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rpqnZT4h/4-EAF87-AB-5-F24-4-F0-E-B536-496875-E1-AD4-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvyzjJbg)

And this is the other side, the vertical edge of the cut out is chipped and worn away, this worn edge is not engagng the pawl, preventing the pawl from retracting and locking ths shift mechanism

(https://i.postimg.cc/3xXfZNk4/896-FC243-0185-4-D1-D-BD88-546-D484661-A0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JshQr1cM)

(https://i.postimg.cc/vmXPpKLG/F1737067-ADE2-4-C10-85-E4-04731-A4-ADA9-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HYqznRr)

Not sure what to do with this, I could try and weld up the worn piece, chiuck it in my lathe and shim the inside and outside back to spec and file the vertical edge, not sure the weld will have a hard enough surface??

Any ideas on how to repair this?
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: leroy_can on April 21, 2021, 09:44:17 PM
  I don't know what type of welding you have but I did some googling and learned about a few choices. I mostly use TIG and there is a rod called Weld Mold 958 which impressed me. Looks like your usual copper coated all purpose steel rod but it produces a hard face weld without any further hardening. The video I saw showed a guy laying a bead at the end of a mild steel bar and sharpening it into a chisel and putting it through it's paces with excellent results. Looked like normal tig welding but would be perfect for what u have there. If you don't tig maybe call around to local shops and see if they have this rod. Shouldn't be much to build it up and u could shape it as required with a variety of die grinder/cut off wheels/mini belt sander type tools. Easier than regular weld and then trying to harden it or worrying it won't last. There were also stick welding rods and mig wire and hardening powders but I liked the tig method best. seemed like all the other ones were laying beads in big loader buckets to slow down wear.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 21, 2021, 10:10:02 PM
  I don't know what type of welding you have but I did some googling and learned about a few choices. I mostly use TIG and there is a rod called Weld Mold 958 which impressed me. Looks like your usual copper coated all purpose steel rod but it produces a hard face weld without any further hardening. The video I saw showed a guy laying a bead at the end of a mild steel bar and sharpening it into a chisel and putting it through it's paces with excellent results. Looked like normal tig welding but would be perfect for what u have there. If you don't tig maybe call around to local shops and see if they have this rod. Shouldn't be much to build it up and u could shape it as required with a variety of die grinder/cut off wheels/mini belt sander type tools. Easier than regular weld and then trying to harden it or worrying it won't last. There were also stick welding rods and mig wire and hardening powders but I liked the tig method best. seemed like all the other ones were laying beads in big loader buckets to slow down wear.

Good advice! I have an ESAB mig/tig/stick but my Tig skills are not very good. I will look into that TIg rod. My smart mig settings do a good job but I don’t know how well the Mig weld will hold up. If the gear shift is properly set up the force depressing the pawls is probably not that great. I just don’t want to screw this part up.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: leroy_can on April 22, 2021, 08:13:31 AM
  A couple of other considerations are: Is it chromed and is it a casting? Actually the presence of chrome usually doesn't hurt a tig weld but I'm not a metallurgist. Mostly I harden things accidentally like the cave man who dropped his meat in the fire and liked the taste. If you took the piece to a welding supply place or to a welding shop they might have more educated advice. I would expect any weld would hold up for quite a while as I don't expect huge mileages to be put on it. Is it external and easily accessed or does it require splitting the cases. Maybe someone has a better one and will see your post.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 22, 2021, 09:48:26 AM
Thanks Leroy

The piece is external to the case so I can reassemble the engine. The piece has been rechromed so I will grind off the chrome prior to any welding. After I get the engine together today I will give the repair another try. I think I will just try a weld with Mig first and see how it takes.

Thanks again
Jim
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 22, 2021, 07:20:06 PM
I reassembled the engine today then clamped the shift mechanism body in the vice and ground some chrome off the worn surface of the part and sparked up the Mig. I welded about 4mm of length to the exposed vertical edge of the piece then chucked it in the lathe and machined back the outside, inside surface and the top edge.

(https://i.postimg.cc/90WtGWTh/77-E517-CB-9-A04-465-F-B1-EA-A14-EF5-D18-FFD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0PrT2Qn)

A lot of hand filing to get the cut back angle to the leading edge, my weld was far from perfect but the edge surface is vertical again

(https://i.postimg.cc/L4NjcFLJ/A1-D781-F7-66-DC-478-B-8565-A9-B4-D7823-A7-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/c6tK3jDW)

After the shift mechanism was reassembled onto the engine case and the shift pedal fitted the gear selector rotates up and down. I also installed the kick starter and by swinging the starter pedal with my left hand to spin the gear set, and my right hand operating the shift pedal, the gears move up and down. Shifting is nothing like a smooth UJM but it feels similar in mechacial 'feel' to my 72 Guzzi Eldorado.

(https://i.postimg.cc/4NcNzzfX/D8-D581-AA-DA5-B-428-C-A916-819725300-BF5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/crsSWttz)

I hope the engine starts...
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 23, 2021, 05:40:22 PM
The powder coating shop finished applying the powder primer. The process is to media blast the parts then bake out the oils followed by an etch wash then the primer powder is sprayed and baked on. I am pretty impressed with the primer.

(https://i.postimg.cc/qvJwP5jG/AFEB730-B-DAE9-4-DA2-8444-56-A93-F58-C85-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGFjJPwy)

Most of the pieces had been sanded to bare metal and the lighter pitting sanded out. These coated parts will all be sanded down and powder coated primed at least one more time.

The primer sand real nice, I am starting with 220 dry, the coater tells me there is no need to sand any finer than 200 as the powder coats will fill any 200 grit scratches. I would say this powder primer is probably equal to at least 2 or 3 high build coats of wet primer. It sands without clumping, very nice to work with. I am blocking all the flat surfaces and using semi rigid foam backing pads for the curved surfaces.

Front forks sanded out, ready for another coat of primer.

(https://i.postimg.cc/RVQGbBQF/C840-CA65-D5-E4-4-CAC-8-EDD-A9-D0-D60-B6-FA9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzq8zWFV)

Even if I choose to use conventional wet applied paints and clear I am pleased with this powder primer and would definitley use this method again.

Depending on how well the rear fender that I patched together turns out I may even use powder as the finish coat.

First coat of the high temp metal filler on the weld seams on the rear fender.

(https://i.postimg.cc/0NrfQJgM/7562-F1-C6-9775-4-C3-D-AB8-D-53-F69-DD2-EA96.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xkDHp81n)

literature says it takes 24 hours to air cure prior to any powder re-coating and it needs to be oven cured at 400 F. I have never used this product but it is what Eastwood Auto reccommends and sells for use with powder coating. There is no activator, just stir it up and spread it on, max 1/4" thick at a time.

(https://i.postimg.cc/TYXC9wbF/4318-D3-DF-B14-D-4857-AD28-97-E82477-DB2-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nB64XBQ)

Hopefully is sands out ok. Once I sand out the filler I will take all the parts back for another primer coating.

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on May 03, 2021, 10:36:12 PM
That is going to be the nicest Airone!  Good info on the powder primer; never heard of it before.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on May 06, 2021, 06:58:26 PM
Good info on the powder primer; never heard of it before.

I only learnt about the primer a month ago when I went into my local powder coater shop to talk about preping my Airone frame.
I have sanded down all the parts and sent the whole lot back for another coat of primer. It fills very deep nicks and gouges taht I could not sand out of the metal, I am very impressed with it.

The primer sands real easy, I went over it with 200 dry. I have decided to have all the parts spray painted with base / clear. My painter has experience with the powder primer and has no issues with spraying over it, he will seal the primer before spraying colour. My painter does a lot of custom bikes, hot rods etc and has very good experience with the powder primer.

My powder coater is super busy and its taking a very long time to get parts coated so progress has been at a stand still.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on May 11, 2021, 09:16:19 PM
The powder coater is finished with the powder primer, two coats, 200 dry sanding after first coat of primer.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HkV1V9yj/17-CD49-D8-5-C78-42-C5-9-A46-E89519-F4550-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVnrPX5h)

I sanded out the second coat of powder primer with 400 wet. The rear fender still needs finishing work, I will finish the prep with a conventional skim coat of bondo filler, 2 part putty and a coat or two of high build primer. Only the tops of the tool  boxes, which were very badly pitted need a slight skim of finishing putty. All the other pieces sanded put very nicely, the high build powder primer is pretty amazing. Everything will get a wet spray applied sealer and then I will go with conventional base / clear for the red finish. The new paint should last another seventy years.

I found a set of original Airone leg shields in Italy for the bike, they were solid, not damaged but have a lot of surface pitting, they will need some work to get them smooth.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XYmSFBfL/0443-E353-A014-4-C59-B193-147-E06-E60035.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Y6SRdFH)

I had the hubs powder coated red to see how it will finish over the primer, looks fine but these will get a final base/clear coat as well.

I pressure tested the oil tank, its solid, I sent it off to be rechromed, the original chrome side domes had been painted over with gloss black, after stripping the paint the chrome is all pitted and peeling, may as well go all in at this point.

I got my last order of parts in from Retro in Italy, new engine case screws, nuts etc to replace the chewed up original heads.

Hopefully I can this painted over the summer.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: keener on July 05, 2021, 07:53:56 PM
Great work and dedication to the project .....Thank you for sharing , :cool: I am hooked
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Dave Swanson on July 07, 2021, 09:19:07 AM
Again, I just got back from throwing rocks at all my bikes.   :grin:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on July 07, 2021, 09:10:07 PM
Lovely work Jim .

 Dave , there isn't anything wrong with your bikes .

Thanks!

The frame and body parts are with the painter, slowly moving to the front of the line. My printer has lined up a pinstripe artist to hand line the gold and black lines and the chrome plated oil tank finally returned from the plating shop. Probably will end up being a mid winter timeline before it goes back together.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Scout63 on July 09, 2021, 10:31:56 PM
I love this build thread.  Your work is fantastic.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 04, 2021, 06:14:32 PM
I got some of the frame pieces back from my painter, enough parts to get started with the reassembly. These frame realted parts are painted in single stage enamel.

(https://i.postimg.cc/vZrbXq1f/EDF00-E98-CE3-B-49-B0-BB67-458-BDD24-A6-DF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5X2h2mS2)

The fenders, gas and oil tank, tool boxes and leg shields will be painted base clear with the hand painted pinstripes and decals applied prior to the clear coat.

I cut cork rebound dampers and used two part epoxy to glue them to the swing arm.

(https://i.postimg.cc/MGQmLF6w/5474107-E-2905-4637-AD87-02-CAF671193-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBj79SKY)

Lots of threads to chase and openings to be cleaned out for bolts to pass through

(https://i.postimg.cc/1XJG6xHG/1-E2-F7231-F080-445-A-BA14-1-E7-EAF56-C450.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K333SHCj)

Center stand mounted then the spring box went on, the long bolts passing from the back of the swing arm pivot and through the frame, installed the inner and outer springs and the spring retainers and lock nuts

(https://i.postimg.cc/02XGysrx/CAE56828-B460-48-D1-B6-EE-EBB4-DD4-D55-E0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8s4xRqY)

Then I laid the motor on its side and blocked it up and then laid the rear frame / swing arm on its side and slid the frame section over the motor mount points, passed some dowels through and stood the frame / motor up

(https://i.postimg.cc/BbchVwCb/3-B8-DA71-E-A0-F6-4726-B869-A60-D5459-C756.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zHvSL76Y)

Next I installed the front frame section, waiting on the brake pedal and spacer for the main lower bolt that passes through the lower frame and spring box tabs, this will hold it for now

(https://i.postimg.cc/RZ0PgdJC/80-F3400-B-0-C2-E-4-AC5-8-D40-FE2-F04-AA3-B40.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svt9XpJb)

Just the begining of many things to assemble

(https://i.postimg.cc/x8SxgSMB/C35949-A2-E4-DF-4884-9486-956-D0-A0458-E0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GmnYdBN)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Groover on September 05, 2021, 08:26:52 AM
Nice job as usual, as well as keeping the paint type authentic (I think, right?)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 05, 2021, 06:00:14 PM
Nice job as usual, as well as keeping the paint type authentic (I think, right?)

Thanks Groover, yes re the paint, the repair manual notes the paint is an enamel of some sort, originaly the decals and painted pinstripes were applied over the enamel and no clear coat over top though the decals 'may' have had a varnish sealer??

I got the rear frame rails on today and the shock mounts, had to hone out the new shock bushings to fit over the rechromed shock mount studs, fiddley work to get a nice snug fit.

(https://i.postimg.cc/TPhyqnpS/5-EA0-E6-FE-4-A62-4002-9-CD1-AB9435-B2-B608.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1FHGg7L)

(https://i.postimg.cc/mgL1kvRT/DD567344-15-A1-4-FA6-A79-E-D675836-C1-BAE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcZ1FFcZ)

Once again the shop troll had made off with some original parts, I carefuly dissasembled, tagged and bagged every part and took plenty of photos but after emptying every parts box and bag I can not find two of the M11 X 1.25 nuts that secure the rear frame blades nor the 12mm stud and nuts that secure the top of the frame pieces together, very frustrating, no doubt they will turn up in a year or two!

I made a new stud from stainless bar and threaded the ends to take M12 X 1.5 nuts I had

(https://i.postimg.cc/XJCpt3Kk/E0675-B87-3-CED-46-B4-B7-F2-69478-DDA2-C4-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBJbyGMW)

Anyone have a source for these missing M11 x 1.25 nuts, I hate to place an order with Retro for two nuts!

(https://i.postimg.cc/fyYSSZJR/B72-E3-DE9-97-FB-4447-9-AF1-52-F59735-FD3-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N2fjZ363)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 06, 2021, 08:44:38 PM
I emptied a bin of front fork parts today. I took many pictures during dissasembly but still scratched my head figuring out the reassembly sequence, the manual text is ok and parts diagram is quite clear but the sequence is critical.

I started with a new rubber seal kit from Retro; two rubber cup seals for the bottom of each fixed fork leg and two rubber seals for the plunger rod guide tubes.

The Guzzi fork design is quite brilliant and very robust, the forks are shared between the 250 and 500cc bacon slicer bikes with the hydraulic front end. The forks are of the upside dwon design, the lower fork tube slides up and down guided by an upper fixed bronze bush in a steel retainer body and fastened to the fixed upper tube with three machine screws, one of which is hollow and takes a grease zert. The lower section of the moving tube runs between bronze guides, one a roller and the other a concave cup, the roller is adjustable by rotating a cam shaped axle. The moving fork lower tubes are hollow and they contain a damper rod with hydraulic valve, the fork tubes are partially filled with fork oil. The damper rod runs in a hollow tube that threads into the top of the sliding lower hollow tube and is limited in movement by the upper bush.

The lower seals

(https://i.postimg.cc/ncDPNYSQ/0978-EA10-7-B40-4-E0-B-986-D-4-B1-DE3472193.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/crdhnYSs)

The lower bronze guides, I replaced these with new sets as the olr ones had worn flat spots,

(https://i.postimg.cc/Y04sr1pZ/696-E944-B-2-A89-4607-AC1-B-727-C1-E92-AEC3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D4Tg544P)

The roller and cup are secured with axles that are cenetred in the removable alloy plate, the roller has an ecentric axle, each axle is hollow and has a grease zert

(https://i.postimg.cc/k5cZfJ11/7811-A315-457-B-4229-B38-A-87-D94-B88-A8-E0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqJNspML)

A  steel plate sits on top of the eccentric axle, then a chrome cover plate followed by a chrome outer coverwasher for the eccentric and a lock screw to set the eccentric once the roller cup is set to the lower fork tube

(https://i.postimg.cc/c4vSCn9s/BDACE450-82-D4-4531-93-A0-39-D9-C6-B2-CCFA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nCf5wCf5)

Then the lower fork tubes are stood up and the fork damper rod inserted, the manual says to fill the tubes to 260mm from the bottom of the fork tube.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJc9WXLb/820-E27-CE-D9-AC-4-B58-AF92-D003-B846411-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKWp7Y50)

The fork tubes is inserted from below, there is a left and right lower leg, then from the top the spring bottom stop is dropped down (champher down) followed by the spring and then a hard plastic spacer

(https://i.postimg.cc/gcSpGDKS/1573-A0-E9-5532-4-DA3-A072-0-EE27020-BFB2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5jCT38TL)

(https://i.postimg.cc/k5vrzF4y/A0-B89722-6-BCF-4-F14-9-C16-76-E2-BCE8-F446.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsrwQmqs)

Next the upper fork bronze bush goes in, the bush needs to be pushed down with a steel bar and aligned with the holes in the fixed fork leg, then the three concave washers and screws are insatlled

(https://i.postimg.cc/vZ9wLdwk/0-FE2-AE97-0-C02-4-B4-A-939-F-9-E6-F10801457.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCt7T9xQ)

(https://i.postimg.cc/KYFwPkN3/639-A5114-A1-CE-4-E7-B-A499-6711-A366-A811.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSjxFzR7)

Once the bush is secured the fork damper guide drops in from above and it is threaded into the top of the lower moveable fork tube. The damper guide has a four sloted face top that takes a special socket, its the same one used on a Guzzi Loop Frame front crankshaft timing gear, I cut the socket in half and welded a section of matching diameter tube to make a very deep socket to tighten the damper holder

(https://i.postimg.cc/3wmrRvwy/8-DDFFE8-F-4-E53-4-BF8-ACDA-CFF3-C35-CE8-CD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94XHgzZV)

The home made deep socket

(https://i.postimg.cc/L8Z2C1Ly/AAA1-A209-AD93-4-C44-A5-DA-473392-E830-A3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRY3ddvD)

Hold the lower leg in a soft jaw vice and tighten the damper rod holder, now the fork lower tube is secured.

I just have to clean the internal threads on the top of the fixed tubes then I can insert the short rebound springs, thread in the caps and finish with the dome nuts over the tips of the damper rods sticking out the caps.

I got one more small job done, the seat is back on

(https://i.postimg.cc/htR5nzNZ/49-E59-AC2-A444-4193-8-F9-D-9-ADA09113-E94.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJ5KjLzY)

I need more parts from my painter to keep going.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: cliffrod on September 06, 2021, 09:21:06 PM
Man, that's a red motorcycle.  I've never done anything with one of those front ends.  That's really cool to see these details.  Looks great.  Thanks, Jim.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 07, 2021, 11:09:11 PM
Another Guzzi design feature that is new to me, the steering damper

Turning the bakelite knob pulls a rod through the fork stem, at the bottom of the rod a sloted dowel carries a flat steel blade that engages two rings, one steel and the second one a hard plastic, the hard plastic ring presses up against the upper bearing cone creating friction

(https://i.postimg.cc/hG69GgLr/624-C680-B-9-D85-4-D08-8456-C04-FCF575-AB8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jW6W8pkw)

a nice piece of engineering, no idea of how effective the design was / is?

(https://i.postimg.cc/DZG1JD5K/0802-A7-EA-ED9-C-4500-8869-7556-A4-A7-E751.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k6n2LTkj)

to clean out the fork inner cap threads  used a large tap with a 1.25 pitch,

(https://i.postimg.cc/m2130P7r/E7-DDA514-A0-AC-4833-AF4-B-C9-A0444-D3-CA4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLKJfdgV)

Forks ready to go back on

(https://i.postimg.cc/bwY0CmYQ/C5911-CA4-BC9-E-4185-BBAF-0-BD40-F5-AE53-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CztfdHq1)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on September 11, 2021, 10:21:50 AM
Jim, your Airone is looking so good!  Beautiful work.

I couldn't find a source for 11mm nuts that hold the battery box into the GTV frame. Valenti shows them, but got case screws instead.  We went back and forth, but the 11mm bolts and nuts never showed up.  Eventually I reamed the holes for 12mm bolts.

McMaster Carr shows m11x1 and m11x1.5 taps, but not x1.25.
https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-taps/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m11/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-taps/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m11/)

I might have a couple of m11x1.25 nuts, but not sure the treads are any good.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Frenchfrog on September 12, 2021, 10:07:56 AM
Lovely work ! Those steering dampers work really well and are so simple and quick to adjust .   
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 12, 2021, 11:11:13 AM
Jim, your Airone is looking so good!  Beautiful work.

I couldn't find a source for 11mm nuts that hold the battery box into the GTV frame. Valenti shows them, but got case screws instead.  We went back and forth, but the 11mm bolts and nuts never showed up.  Eventually I reamed the holes for 12mm bolts.

McMaster Carr shows m11x1 and m11x1.5 taps, but not x1.25.
https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-taps/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m11/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/metric-taps/system-of-measurement~metric/thread-size~m11/)

I might have a couple of m11x1.25 nuts, but not sure the treads are any good.

Thanks Shaun, I have sent an email to Retro asking for the 11mm nuts and I ordered some 11mm taps and dies off EBay from China. Hopefully Retro can help

Thanks Frenchfrog, I am looking forward to getting the rest of the frame parts back to keep moving with the build.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 21, 2021, 05:24:08 PM
My painter called yesterday, the rest of the single stage enamel parts are ready, picked them up this morning, lots to continue with now, should get the fenders, tanks and tool boxes done by Christmas

(https://i.postimg.cc/L674wHsD/5-D268-EC6-B1-BA-43-B4-A851-9-B9415-ED9-E7-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdqcbPn0)

I got just one piece back on but it is a big one in more ways than one, the 'bacon slicer' flywheel

(https://i.postimg.cc/brVYzP9z/8223-E0-A0-8608-41-AC-84-F9-C45-AC756368-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PvZn4B7c)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: cliffrod on September 21, 2021, 08:07:19 PM
Man, I want a Guzzi with red paint like that all over it....  Those parts look really good, Jim.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Muzz on September 22, 2021, 04:16:46 AM
Since the Rebuilds and Restos has had it's own spot I confess that i do not look as often.  It is work like this Jim that brings home to me what I am missing out on.

Once again, another fabulous Canuck rebuild.

Beautiful work Jim. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 22, 2021, 05:02:15 PM
Thanks Muzz!

I assembled the rear dampers today, new seals, rubber bushings and bushing inserts from Retro

(https://i.postimg.cc/NGHN6fgW/62-F94414-4-B41-4-F0-A-8-DDE-3082062-B4533.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0JFZmvc)

It takes a lot of fiddling to get the seals into these recess

(https://i.postimg.cc/FRKZkNTn/7078-C68-D-1-C46-451-B-BD4-E-CB3-A0-F894-C41.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KKdLdSSn)

Honed out the inner tubes

(https://i.postimg.cc/3JGPxF40/8-CA8930-B-A122-4290-BC34-E7-D792-B33288.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCTff3LJ)

Then stood the lower body up, inserted the inner tube and filled with 30W until oil poured out the level hole, then inserted the damping rod, pushed down the rod until oil stopped flowing out and buttoned it all up

(https://i.postimg.cc/15bjxnvR/635166-EB-BF48-44-FB-9-EDB-2-F964-AF4828-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bdfDQgh)

I had the caps and mounting spindles re chromed

(https://i.postimg.cc/TY9YPxWD/23-DDF35-B-B867-4568-B3-BD-20-D336252413.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCWhf1Hb)

Got the front frame spacers, foot peg brackets and rear brake pedal installed, repro rubbers from Retro

(https://i.postimg.cc/CLnc4MS3/EDC9-FCA3-D22-C-4-C49-9-B68-959150191-E3-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xp3KjbZL)

The repro rear peg rubbers don't fit the Astorino so I reinstalled the original rubbers, the repros are far too short, original on the left

(https://i.postimg.cc/Mpythsct/EF16-E68-D-348-C-4-E6-B-AC2-B-252-C53785-E6-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yD8FRyyS)

(https://i.postimg.cc/1zQ7XxxL/DD1164-A7-21-A8-42-DD-9151-89-DDC6-C145-E5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvFBkbLm)

And that's it for today, have to pick up some more bearing grease to get the front steering together.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 23, 2021, 06:13:15 PM
I picked up a tub of grease, greased up the cones and installed the 1/4" diamter ball bearings,

(https://i.postimg.cc/wMJp0SvL/3-D8378-C3-A31-D-47-D9-90-D7-7280-F07-B4076.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QxTtK82)

Then it was an easy job to hang the forks and install the handlebars

(https://i.postimg.cc/FRYmJfXP/57053137-4-D4-D-4-B1-C-BFA8-2566-E0-DB5386.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34QzsxRp)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: twodogs on September 24, 2021, 07:26:50 AM
Always amazed at what you do, great work  :boozing:
Bruce
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on September 24, 2021, 02:20:40 PM
Always amazed at what you do, great work  :boozing:
Bruce

Thanks Two Dogs!

I got the headlight back on today, not much more than that, its a warm sunny day and time to go for a ride

(https://i.postimg.cc/L5ZmHVBM/0-F1-F3-B53-5-B84-4-DDD-9-A24-8-D400-E2-AAD74.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xNYw5M4s)

(https://i.postimg.cc/JtVMtBPH/79123-C23-1-DD0-48-C5-B591-B0-CB21-E9-E900.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D4gtMmV7)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on November 30, 2021, 06:18:48 PM
I finaly got some more parts back form the painter to continue with the Airone build, front and rear wheel hubs painted.

The rest of the sheet metal parts are getting close to final prime, my painter ground out all the high temp filler I had in the rear fender for powder primer and welded in new steel sections, I was reminded, firmly, to not help him out with my POS atempts at body work in the future.  :thewife:

New beaings in the rear hub, replaced the felt grease seal, getting the rim spoked turned out to be a real pain in the butt, I have been lacing wheels this week for other projects and none gave me any trouble.

(https://i.postimg.cc/1XSPfkWW/DE507-CDA-DB29-4-EAC-846-A-5-E5-A70-CF711-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XGstPz6F)

The Airone rear wheel is center aligned, no offset but of the 40 spokes ten are 4mm shorter and I had marked the location and orientation of the shorter spokes, stll upon lacing I must have placed the short spokes incorrectly as I had to strip the wheel a couple times and relace it to get it finished.

(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5sTVDRR/7-AD8-CFFA-8-F4-F-4-E80-9-DC9-B2-AC2-BC776-F7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxRF0s3F)

As the axle mut be installed with the hub prior to driving in the bearings I can not use a truing stand, fitting the brakes shoes was alos a bit of a pain, the brake drum pins that support the shoes were a bit bent, starightening them after paint was tedious, lots of adjustment to shoe ends and pivots before the shoes moved smoothly

(https://i.postimg.cc/Wz7Vr5Cs/D9-F01984-DB9-C-4949-82-C8-AE8953-F92480.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SYjHbfmP)

The sprocket has six rubber cush discs and there are two plates, one on each side of the sprocket that compress the rubbers, Getting the rubbers to only spread to one side of the sprocket took some time to figure out, otherwise the sprocket will not clamp down true to the hub

(https://i.postimg.cc/Y9YM2rxG/136-C440-C-4-AE7-4-F93-9-CB4-B27-ED75-E7-C74.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LY9rNMw2)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Jh9RWDjC/678-E8-D0-C-0-AD8-42-D2-B907-1-EA35-CB9-B5-CD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGH7xv6m)

Brake drum and sprocket bolted to hub, I set the wheel in the frame

(https://i.postimg.cc/7ZRkgGsJ/FA8-D72-C3-BD40-4470-9983-1-C1203324-DA8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3k2VhRH3)

I will use the frame to true the rim

(https://i.postimg.cc/PqLdczpM/A28-F4-AE2-0-FC7-460-D-AE1-A-64-A46913647-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KgCHc1K)

I am not looking forward to lacing the front wheel, it has a big offset from centerof the hub.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: cliffrod on December 01, 2021, 09:17:19 AM
Looks really good, Jim.   
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 03, 2021, 10:15:42 PM
Rear rim sent off with an Avon tire to be mounted, I just don't trust my ability to mount a tubed tire without pinching and nicking the tube, had to many frustrating failures to bother anymore.

Assembling the front hub, both of the tappered roller bearings were worn out, these are the same as used in loop frame bikes, races pressed in and bearings greased

(https://i.postimg.cc/L51BfFs4/2-EF584-B8-A4-AF-485-A-9242-15769-D3-AE66-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/64BvJSRF)

The felt seals were worn out, I found new felt sheet at Home Hardware in the furniture pad section, one side has adhesive but that will work fine with the glue faced side facing out, cut new felt seals with an exacto blade

(https://i.postimg.cc/8CZHgb3G/3-FB809-A3-77-A7-48-FF-A6-A4-35411-BA33-D45.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJ75Qbdv)

felt seal is sandwiched between a sprung washer and a cupped washer

(https://i.postimg.cc/GpLQffXz/5-D1-B5-B5-E-BF01-4-C6-E-A744-21494-CC84463.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sML7QTdZ)

After pressing the seal assembly against the tappered roller a snap ring retains the bearing / seal onto each side of the hub, a threaded retainer is spun in on each side, a lot like a bicycle axle

(https://i.postimg.cc/cLDYrzLK/F501-AFA7-5-C97-4-D19-AA2-E-4-D663-C30-FF04.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjKtzMDs)

shorter spokes (two different lengths) on the brake hub side

(https://i.postimg.cc/PxJwWQN6/83-F8-A122-FA01-40-C6-888-B-9225-E642-D252.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwV2KNHN)

and all equal length spokes on the other side, I used plastic drywall plugs to temporarly hold the spoke heads in position while I spun on the spoke nipples

(https://i.postimg.cc/Wpf7HhvF/ACA2-AA76-5438-492-B-9331-B2-F46-F980-FFC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QV15BNVh)

I had recorded the offset dimensions way back when I disassembled the wheel and propped up the rim with plastic boxes and steel scrap to match the offset position of the rim to the hub

(https://i.postimg.cc/3wnG0cr4/32-B7-C442-2-CE0-4-AA4-A5-BC-04-F06-F841556.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9vn1jd4)

Once the nipples were equally snugged up the rim was actually close to being true

(https://i.postimg.cc/9FHT2BR9/A8-C11467-0861-4817-B44-B-8-C3479-A77-C8-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7D7tWzR)

Minimal up/down and side/side adjustments were required using a dial gauge to get to +/- 10 thou

(https://i.postimg.cc/Wpkrxy3j/4055-E2-B5-D98-F-4007-A825-551660-CCA408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/14yfqJwY)

Another rim off to get a tire mounted on Saturday, I always feel a major milestone in the rebuild has been met when the bike is rolling on its tires
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 05, 2021, 03:06:27 PM
It has been just over one year since I started the restoration of the Airone, progress has been intermitent, mostly due to waiting on parts from Italy and my painters schedule, it is finally resting on its own two wheels

(https://i.postimg.cc/L6PZCrjw/A77-BC29-A-2-FF7-48-F3-9253-138-DCC6-AC996.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svVX1H64)

(https://i.postimg.cc/nVgD1H9q/722-A28-EB-CEA0-4-CFC-ACBF-B13287-B1-E011.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6TVqWx0Q)

Of the hundreds of things that have needed attention I am liklely down to the last 100 or so

(https://i.postimg.cc/qMKmTJPG/31-C7-D865-86-F6-4-C04-8168-13-D4-F56-A2643.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnYyyWkw)

(https://i.postimg.cc/QM89MCvZ/C92-A2134-D400-4-F93-9-D60-B8-CBAF5-DB7-F5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrNsZYp6)

I may get the tin parts painted and pin striped by late winter, fingers crossed that the stars align with my painter and his pin stripe artist.

I can get on with all the hand controls, cables, electrical, etc........ but some time this winter I have to drop the engine in my 1975 Ducati 860 GT and figure out why the rear cylinder suddenly decided to smoke this past fall, perhaps an oil ring collapsed, I had the guides, seats and oil seals replaced in the heads, we shall see.

Old bikes, a constant hobby.


Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 06, 2021, 06:06:50 PM
I had a brain fart moment yesterday, I am translating the Airone Owners Manual and going through the original Italian booklet I realized I have the front wheel on backwards, so I pulled the fork tubes out and swapped them around so I can get the front brake plate on the right hand side

(https://i.postimg.cc/76Vd2KV3/C67136-BF-9945-4-A67-BD24-81-F3-DE0-C07-CD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FdYTtgwz)

While I had the wheel off I felt the brake shoes are jut too tight, I made a mandrel for the lathe and using a sanding belt turned inside out trimmed off a wee bit of the new linings.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gkrQxq6h/809-EB067-E451-4-D67-9-A6-B-1-FBC2-A82-C216.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcF3jnh8)

repro battery box and retaining clamps

(https://i.postimg.cc/vBtFvYQ6/0-EA5511-A-D47-A-483-F-AA6-E-FE49511318-C5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62qmWN49)

repro choke and manual advance levers, I had the handlebars and original levers replated, repro white handlebar grips

(https://i.postimg.cc/xdLW0fNF/46399522-F6-BD-49-F1-959-C-FABC88-A07874.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBhMK1Qk)

and a repro header and muffler

(https://i.postimg.cc/SNsFWbHJ/74-B6038-E-90-C1-4-CEC-B7-FD-5382-E5-F15-ABD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/23PKDMkD)


Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 08, 2021, 10:47:16 PM
Jim, your work is so exacting - great job!  You really did a nice job building those wheels (and the forks and the dampers and the...) - learned lots. I like your picture of the brakes in the lathe.  I need to do that on one of the Ariels so thanks for the tip!  It really is gorgeous sitting on its wheels.  Thank you for the time to take all the detailed pictures and write the documentation.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 08, 2021, 11:40:04 PM
Thanks Shaun!

Its certainly taking longer than I had thought to get this far, my painter keeps bumping me back on the list, probably due to me telling him I am not in a rush, but he is fixing my poor metal work so I am sure the end result will be worth it. I put in one more small order to Retro for a few last bits and pieces, the throttle that slides inside the handle bar was a poor reproduction that didn't fit with a damn and I am hopping the one he can get is better.

I have my fingers crossed that the bike will start.

I am getting close to finishing a translation of the 1948 Airone owners manual, it has plenty of good information for tuning etc, once done I will ask Greg Bender to put it on his This Old Tractor Moto Guzzi web page.

I also got a new cast iron cylinder and new piston for my GTV motor from Retro, once I get the crank ground I should have a fully rebuilt motor .... now to find a rolling chassis to put it into. I am thinking of heading to Italy for the big swap meet in a year to look for a roller.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on December 09, 2021, 08:36:03 AM
Did you see the Astore back-half chassis that was for sale on the Moto Guzzi Singles Facebook group?
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 09, 2021, 10:02:28 AM
Did you see the Astore back-half chassis that was for sale on the Moto Guzzi Singles Facebook group?

I did, thanks for posting it. I think the asking price for what’s there is far too high. I am thinking a complete rolling chassis at the big swap meet in Italy would be in the 4 -6K range, I could be completely out to lunch, just a guess.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 09, 2021, 06:12:09 PM
The magneto advance lever and the choke lever are reproductions and they come with an alignment pin in addition to the mounting bolt that passes through the handlebar welded on lever perches. The original levers did not have alignment pin and when pulling the levers the base can rotate. So I have to drill 3mm holes in the handlebar perches in the correct location to secure the lever assemblies.

To get the new holes in the right location I made a paper pattern of the underside of the new lever assemblies, punched out the large mounting hole and the 3mm pin hole, then taped the paper to the underside of the lever assembly

(https://i.postimg.cc/k5s3phdy/1-D116-C0-A-944-D-4-E10-8152-8-F09760-D8-F38.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGZBGgrG)

Then I mounted the lever assembly, aligned it to where I think it should face and then lifted the tape of the lever body and taped the paper to the handlebars

(https://i.postimg.cc/VNmP4P26/E5-DE4-E30-79-A6-4612-ABBF-637-AB56-ACE26.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXyYP6DW)

Then unbolt the lever body leaving the paper pattern on the perch, punch a drill center for the new 3mm hole

(https://i.postimg.cc/FHjQjHW8/7-BEEDD7-A-7942-4-AEF-8-F2-B-A3-A90-BFDC3-F3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhtXFwKj)

The pins were too tall, I ground off about 8mm and the pin sits just above the perch by 3mm

(https://i.postimg.cc/TP6fSD5T/EFD0-E2-B5-13-D8-4292-B9-F8-9-E67146-DE09-B.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nX0y9M1W)

Now place the lever body over the pin and boly it secure from underneath, a lot of messing about to drill two 3mm holes!

(https://i.postimg.cc/nrCJ7KgG/55-A3-A1-A2-1-CC0-482-D-B1-DC-1897-EF3-C33-FA.jpg[/img [/url]

When I bought this bike years ago I ordered a set of new control cables from Valenti, the 'kit' includes one long section of new outer sheathing and seven lengths of inner cable with various ends soldered on plus a bunch of ferrules.

[url=https://postimg.cc/1fS2WDCT][img]https://i.postimg.cc/ZKvm5crT/F22-B00-AE-789-D-4-CD8-832-B-8834-AA3-B39-AB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N2qSvXgK)

The disappointing part is the solder cylinder ends for the clutch and brake levers are really to small, I will probably replace them. The ends for the choke and advance levers are not correct, I can file them to sort of work but again not the best, and the cables are of a larger diameter so they realy don't slide into the lever body cut outs or through the lever openings without file work.

I did get the advance cable and clutch cable to work, the front brake cable solder end twists in the lever when I pull the brake so it has to be redone. The advance and clutch ends use the screw on barrell ends typical of bikes of this era, I had a couple different sizes in my parts box so at least I got two cables done.

(https://i.postimg.cc/DZfFf3cD/8-DF1-E662-89-A9-4-B00-A2-C8-AC46-ED304-A60.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJG2n5tX)

(https://i.postimg.cc/BvB4Gn2H/E42-C315-A-75-D3-4-CCA-85-B7-8753-BAE1-D1-A0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jW2GHKgS)

The throttle and choke cables do not have ends on them for the lever and throttle, I think I will need to get custom cables made for these.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 14, 2021, 12:09:30 AM
Been working on the electrical for a couple days, some things from 1948 are brilliant, I wish they still fitted spark plug caps of this quality today, the cap has a removable bayonet type threaded spike that pierces the high tension lead when screwed in tight, on the other end a brass disc is soldered to the bare tension lead, when screwed into the magneto the disc make solid contact with a brass mate

(https://i.postimg.cc/NjSMKgJ8/2296888-C-5810-4356-B65-E-A31-FC1-CBEF81.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/21dmJff3)

all solderd up and fitted

(https://i.postimg.cc/6qcqqngT/EF7-A9-DB6-D399-48-C4-8-FDA-8-DCE18-C86-B33.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GTBdS8c1)

(https://i.postimg.cc/qBxz1Hq0/99-D61133-DFAC-4-B69-AD0-D-1-ABB79-D9-CA75.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhhDGwV3)

Reconnecting all the wires to the amin light swithc (Aprilia) in the headlicght bucket I get intermittent shorts and illumination

(https://i.postimg.cc/tJp792rL/5-E7-FBDFE-FFCE-4-C21-B421-52-D34-F93-A3-CA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S21mr7br)

replaced all the wires, even the light switch to terminal block searching for a short,

(https://i.postimg.cc/RVPqz1wD/DA99-DFDF-5348-469-E-A6-EA-DC49171-C030-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXKJTKYT)

eventually found it in the worn switch, try as I might to fix it the old switch mechanism is badly worn and the 'key' which is turned 45 degrees L or R from center for park and running lights does not positivley lock and I get a short, nothing or a flicker. Some of the terminal wires have been repalced before and the sequence does not match  the wiring diagram in the manual, looks like previous owner had issues with the lighting and tried a bodge to get the ligths to stay on

(https://i.postimg.cc/yY7SKYtk/14014963-E731-4218-8680-4078976-D78-FD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Btwvcsq0)

looks like previous owner had taken the switch apart in the past and the tabs that secure parts of it are bent and causing the issues, I may be able to fix it a bit, the switch on the handlebar is a std. CEV that os for high / low and horn.

I hate electrical, sorting out old bodges is not fun
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 14, 2021, 07:45:15 PM
I had previously opened up the original horn, cleaned and tested it and gave it a coat of paint. On the bike and with the switch hooked up it worked (poorly) for a few minutes until the 'smoke came out'. I opened up the horn and it looks like the solenoid windings had shorted out, damn!

I removed the guts, drilled out the magnet riverts (4) and had a bare shell

(https://i.postimg.cc/5tQ3m8GG/615-DEB14-D29-D-44-FE-9-FAB-39-A6-AB128708.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94VZmwct)

and then remembered I had bought a couple 6V horns off Ebay (India) advertized as being a Vespa replacement, they cost about $15 a pop. The horn looks like it would drop right into the Magneti Marelli horn shell, and like it as meant to be the new 6V horn fits perfectly.

(https://i.postimg.cc/d1d5JGjd/BD492-F8-B-031-B-4098-BAB5-C8-AFBD7895-C5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LY9tTY76)

I cleaned off the paint from the original shell parts and made a new bracket to hold the horn insert from 16 gauge stainless sheet, some folds in the bench vise and drilled some holes

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZKjVYbpf/C07-EA619-0-BB4-4-CDB-89-D1-CC9-FADDFC233.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXLxMGhD)

Then I powder coated semi gloss black the original shell parts and the new bracket, I used new aluminum dome head rivets to mount the new bracket to the shell using the original horn magnet mount points

(https://i.postimg.cc/W4x9R5gT/F0-FA4317-C4-C7-4650-8621-93-BC4-FC95890.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZcKdcsz)

I wound in some metric machine screws to fill the holes in the back of the case where original screw mounts were fitted then cut off the ends of the protruding studs

The original exterior bakelite wire terminal was reused, I connected wires from the horn insert to the bakelite base inside the horn

(https://i.postimg.cc/7hkmhbKR/59-C662-CA-96-A2-4561-BFBB-1-B6-B523-CB9-AF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jwMzkq06)

Two self taping screws retain the horn insert to the new bracket, then the origianl outer louvered cap was bolted back on

(https://i.postimg.cc/rFTPFZbp/39340527-55-ED-4-EEE-A089-C8698-FDB912-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yWfPLj7q)

and from the back side it looks pretty much like a new stock Magneti Marelli horn

(https://i.postimg.cc/fbVHgG38/4-FF4-BAC5-C41-D-466-A-BA86-54524-BAA14-F0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GB1J4SxD)

It took an afternoon but for under $20 I have a fully functioning 6V horn with a nice annoying sound and it looks stock, pretty happy with how this turned out



Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 16, 2021, 08:20:52 PM
After the better part of a week sorting the electrical I ignored the ‘original’ wire connections in the headlight bucket, started from scratch, it’s only lighting and a horn after all, and armed with the schematic re-ran new connections, previous owner(s) had so buggered up the few connections there are that a lack of a dedicated ground wired to the headlight components and jerry rigged switch connections had resulted in the circuits trying to find a ground through the path of least resistance; the city light.

After adding a dedicated ground back to the frame and following the schematic, the lights (city, high and low beam, tail light) horn and dynamo plus horn / high low switch are all behaving as they should. I had this problem before on a V7 Sport where poor rear signal light grounds forced the circuit to seek ground through a hit connection resulting in fuses slowly burning out and signals not working.

Lesson learned, again, always check for good grounding.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on December 16, 2021, 10:42:57 PM
The disappointing part is the solder cylinder ends for the clutch and brake levers are really to small, I will probably replace them.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvB4Gn2H/E42-C315-A-75-D3-4-CCA-85-B7-8753-BAE1-D1-A0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jW2GHKgS)

Those small cable ends may be made for the weird little caps that fit over the cable end and into the levers.  IIRC the cap acts as a retainer so the lever can be made without a slot for the cable (instead the cable end is inserted and the cap put over it).  Here is a picture of the small cable end with the cap over it.  The OD of the cap is the size of the hole in the lever.

While it looks clever, the clutch cable quickly failed by wearing against the slot in the cap.  I've now got larger ends on both brake and clutch cables and they wear much better.

(https://i.ibb.co/LgyDm8p/image5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LgyDm8p)

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 17, 2021, 05:59:14 PM
Those small cable ends may be made for the weird little caps that fit over the cable end and into the levers.  IIRC the cap acts as a retainer so the lever can be made without a slot for the cable (instead the cable end is inserted and the cap put over it).  Here is a picture of the small cable end with the cap over it.  The OD of the cap is the size of the hole in the lever.

While it looks clever, the clutch cable quickly failed by wearing against the slot in the cap.  I've now got larger ends on both brake and clutch cables and they wear much better.

(https://i.ibb.co/LgyDm8p/image5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/LgyDm8p)


Thanks for the info, I think I will get custom inner cables made
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 28, 2021, 07:59:00 PM
A parts order arrived from 'Retro" in Italy, hopefully the last parts order for the Airone.

A reproduction tire pump, final drive chain, a reproduction speedometer, speedo mount and telescopic cable kit, a couple nuts and bulbs

(https://i.postimg.cc/tR5TSrzL/B0-EABE5-E-A498-405-B-86-F3-126-F616784-BC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3y83F6j)

The mount needs to be drilled for the speedo lugs, bulb and the hole for the steering stem needed to be enlarged from 18mm to 25mm

(https://i.postimg.cc/G2P21znT/AF60-CB63-DBD8-4219-9-DD0-F08-D3747-F054.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYXRttXm)

I should have thought this through more, aligning the gauge on the center line of the frame results in a major kink on the speedo cable

(https://i.postimg.cc/zfXph208/7-C8-E06-D1-ADFA-476-F-BD22-65-F77-CA34-C95.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKS1q43z)

I will rotate the mount to the right but will need to redrill the gauge stud holes to keep the instrument face horizontal

(https://i.postimg.cc/jShZLY6M/1731-CE88-D85-B-41-A4-B6-BD-DA823-BC70-C7-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWNcD8Dt)

That will leave extra holes in the mount, I think I will turn an aluminum cup to cover the extra holes and give the underside of the mount some thickness

The telescopic speedo drive kit needs to have the mount brackets chrome platted and the telescopic cylinder body painted

The throttle slide kit has a guide pin larger than the handlebar slot,

(https://i.postimg.cc/tTs5S1Kc/D00-BD683-37-C6-4671-8-DAA-0-B1-EED07-AFCA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcCXjLs0)

some grinding and file work of the handlebar required

(https://i.postimg.cc/RC3sG890/BB9-CFCF1-A25-A-447-A-9-E24-7-B7-E02-EC2-E78.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9CxmX40)

(https://i.postimg.cc/mrXjy35M/D54-A97-D1-4-B14-4890-AA86-4-E8-AD3-ADFE25.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HJMbpMHs)

now to make up a throttle cable and fit the rubber handle cover

(https://i.postimg.cc/dVF5sVC7/4-B557-FEC-D991-4-ADA-BB16-F21-EA8193-A17.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8Cr5FBF)

I have to give a big THANK YOU to Retro

http://www.guzziretro.com

info@guzziretro.com

Piazza della Stazione 13 Abbadia Lariana LC 23821 Italia

The Retrò is a shop born in 2013 here you can find thirty years of passion for classic motorcycles of Ciabarri’s family.

By us you will find spare parts for Moto Guzzi for the first models of 1921 up to the 1980 models through those three-wheeler of the legendary Hercules, the rare pieces of 3x3 (mechanical mule).

With our qualified staff we are propose to answer of every your request.

By us you can find Spare Parts new, original old timer, restored, used, rebuilt.

We offer for our client a service of restore, chrome plating, coating, frame straightening, remaking engines... practically we offer our customers a 360° fully addressed our passion for vintage.

As well as a selling point, the Retro is an international meeting place where they can share the same passion.

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 29, 2021, 09:09:57 PM
I rotated the speedometer bracket to align the speedometer cable vertical clear of the headlight, this requires re-drilling the bracket Retro sent me, too many holes now so I drafted up a new bracket with the holes where I want them and sent the pdf and Autocad file to a water blast cutter shop to cut out a couple copies for me in 3mm steel plate rather than the alluminum the original was cut from.

Once I bend the bracket to get the offsets I will probably weld up some stiffner gussets on the underside and see if I can figure out how to attach another anchor strap to meet an existing fastener on the fork assembly

(https://i.postimg.cc/Sxd3QVr5/Jim-Carey-Bracket-Dec-29-202110241024-1-2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on December 30, 2021, 08:19:29 PM
Finished the throttle control today, the outer shroud length and inner cable length figured out and trimmed, I used a clamp style cylinder end to lock the cable into the handlebar slide

(https://i.postimg.cc/0y3q4Rdf/B22-C66-B7-F8-A3-4-E66-BDD1-771-F016323-E9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dh8X7ffk)

(https://i.postimg.cc/3JthgDkz/07-BBA802-F779-4111-9-B3-F-A48-D7662-D7-C3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D84Rh0dc)

a small set screw locks the fixed end of the throttle to the handlebar, needed to trim 1mm off the end of the handlebar to align the grub screw to the bar opening, then tighten the screw until it almost touches the rotating cylinder, peen the set screw to the handlebar and then file the head of the set screw flush to the handlebar outer face

(https://i.postimg.cc/Xq3Wgfc6/75849304-510-F-4340-A9-F7-F81-EF1245973.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6P2SnDg)

and the bar end is finished, the outer cover tube includes the rubber grip and is secured to the rotating cylinder with a bolt and an internal compression spring

(https://i.postimg.cc/WznvYdXF/029-EDEB0-BB5-F-470-C-8-EB3-D8298-E34070-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GTHVHm0d)

(https://i.postimg.cc/7L2y8sKy/C100-EC3-A-A3-AC-49-E7-AA1-F-E73-F707-D71-F2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdMH5J6h)

choke and throttle ends secured into carb

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hx9Rdf5F/5308-C685-9-B32-4-F57-AD2-E-8-D309-AD5-A080.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RzJBgLB)

Installed the final drive chain and put the repro tire pump on its frame mounts

(https://i.postimg.cc/RhC8FXLh/D81-A10-E2-CBC4-49-DF-A7-EC-A42-EE1-B92-D44.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RS1gPSH)

Almost ready for the fenders, leg shields, oil and gas tanks and tool boxes, can't rush my painter but I hope he finishes the pieces before spring.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 14, 2022, 09:43:05 PM
My painter called yesterday to tell me he has the fenders, gas and oil tanks, tool boxes and leg shields ready to pinstripe and the pinstripe artist would be at his shop today to get started. I asked if I could meet the painter and watch some of his work and after given the Ok I drove out to my painters rural shop and watched the magic.

The parts are painted in base coat and will be pin striped and have the decals applied prior to clear coat finish. I took many detailed pictures of the parts prior to refinishing and used a paper tape measure and a caliper to note placement and width of stripes.

The gas tank with the first black stripe done

(https://i.postimg.cc/vTQ6jcL7/7-B219971-CB15-4-C07-AD79-D65-C48314869.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MMFTfZLX)

It was a real treat to watch Dave apply the stripes, he has been doing this for almost 45 years, he has detailed thousands of cars and motorcycles. Dave used a masking tape guide line for the fenders only, by hand/sight for the rest of the pieces.

a leg shield with the gold and black stripes

(https://i.postimg.cc/vT36db3J/20-FF194-E-271-F-4-CF5-9-D75-DA172-D49658-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/644QrJsc)

I should have all the parts completed and back with me in a week or two, I think its going to look very smart.

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: soybeanspuppisa on January 15, 2022, 09:26:38 AM
Nice. I have one in the garage, but I don't really understand restoration. Now I'll take a look around the forum, maybe I'll find some good advice :) 
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: blackcat on January 20, 2022, 09:35:21 AM
I haven't looked at this project in awhile and of course it is just great work.  Does Retro mostly sell old parts or do they also have parts for later models?
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 20, 2022, 10:05:16 AM
I haven't looked at this project in awhile and of course it is just great work.  Does Retro mostly sell old parts or do they also have parts for later models?

Retro does not have an online catalogue but he will respond to email. I think his specialty is the pre V Twin bikes.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on January 20, 2022, 12:19:13 PM
Very Prime, no Parts spared ,really enjoyed how you captured and explained everything . Takes me back  34 Years, when I [ We / help from a friend with painting] restored a Nuovo Falcone Militare and turned it it into a Polizzia.
the Red gives it the xtra 'kick'  :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 20, 2022, 07:59:08 PM
Thanks Jorg, this one has been a challenge tracking down parts and dealing with the badly rusted rear fender. I just hope I can get ito run reliably.

Jim
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on January 22, 2022, 12:35:42 AM
Beautiful work (and documentation!).  It looks great.  Your posts on assembling the spiral throttle remind how complicated and fiddly it is.  Amazing it was ever used!

It will be a beautiful bike.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: blackcat on January 22, 2022, 10:10:26 AM
Retro does not have an online catalogue but he will respond to email. I think his specialty is the pre V Twin bikes.

Thanks, I assumed it was for the older bikes but worth asking.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 22, 2022, 05:46:07 PM
Beautiful work (and documentation!).  It looks great.  Your posts on assembling the spiral throttle remind how complicated and fiddly it is.  Amazing it was ever used!

It will be a beautiful bike.

Thanks Shawn,

the throttle is 'interesting' nice clean exterior appearance but overly complicated compared to the typical designs.

I seem to be waiting on parts for every project I have on the go, been spending my time trying to aquire some basic skills on the lathe and mill, I think machining itself is another rabbit hole I could easily fall in to!

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 25, 2022, 09:07:19 PM
The painter is done with the Airone's painted parts, there was a lot of metal straightening and shrinking on the leg shields and the rear fender required a proffesionals hand to fix my attempts at merging two fenders into one, new metal was pieced into the side skirts, again plenty of shrinking and shaping, the painter I use has 45+ years experience as a red-seal autobody mechanic.

(https://i.postimg.cc/9FgHvr0b/FB0-C67-A2-D8-DB-4-E66-9628-9-FF9720-FD44-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bS4S5pK)

The gas tank is a new chrome reproduction I bought from Valenti a couple years ago, paint is base clear, stipes are hand painted.

(https://i.postimg.cc/5yxMMz87/3-B3-B3-F8-E-5857-4-FA7-B2-E2-E2-E54-C97-D2-FE.jpg)[/url

The fenders were in very rough shape, I am very happy with the surface finish, hardly any bondo on these parts

[url=https://postimg.cc/jnwFZtm9](https://i.postimg.cc/wM0YxBV6/E214466-C-25-EF-44-F3-9-B3-F-706-A09-FB64-B1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YkrB67L)

This is one RED motorcycle

I need to let the clear harden for at least a week, I may just mount the oil tank so I can get the oil lines fitted and work towards getting the engine running.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on January 25, 2022, 10:09:30 PM
Beautiful!  :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 26, 2022, 05:58:52 PM
One small job I can do while the clear coat hardens, I made up some pins for the tool box lids, 3mm (1/8") diameter galvanized spokes (Benelli spares) fit great, I left the threaded end intact, cut to length and then using a hacksaw made a slit in the cut off end to fit a small flat blade screwdriver.

(https://i.postimg.cc/2SSvnDsc/2-BE92-DC8-D8-CC-43-B5-9-FC4-68-CD356457-CA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVFVCfsX)

Snug fit, turned the pins in, then a dab of touch up paint

(https://i.postimg.cc/Lsr1dZnw/198517-E8-B41-C-4-CB0-B91-B-8-CF126-F1476-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q76hyd7)

The pins are not going anywhere and the lids pivot nicely

(https://i.postimg.cc/CMCft5Yr/8-CF5-A4-FF-9076-470-D-B302-EBBCAB5-A41-A1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hjxx8prb)

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: berniebee on January 27, 2022, 09:41:56 AM
What an ingenious throttle assembly! Thanks for showing the details.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on January 27, 2022, 04:40:59 PM
Very nice, ... for Metal and Paint to come out like that .Looks awesome .
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 27, 2022, 06:25:47 PM
Thanks Jorg, I can't take any credit for the paint, Craig Cooksley in central Alberta has painted all of my bikes, he is a real pro, only paints motorcycles.

I made up a pair of rear axle nuts on my lathe and mill - M15 x 1.25, unobtanium from any nut and bolt supplier.

Start with 1048 25mm steel rod, drill and tap a section,

(https://i.postimg.cc/8zzP2g0K/85-DC4557-F794-41-D7-9-D39-83-FED61-EC622.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLgYCpvr)

test fit the threads to the axle

(https://i.postimg.cc/q7mCqBZ2/9-AE49344-745-A-4-EAF-AD07-0-A991-A0-FB30-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7C2LQ44L)

make the flats on the mill, rotate each side 60 degrees using a big nut as a referance face, clamped the round bar direct to the mill table,

(https://i.postimg.cc/K8DTXDPq/70-F0-B8-DE-0146-4-F19-ACE3-BDE2-C25-D8-E86.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2DGK8hK)

cut the nuts to length on the lathe with a parting tool

(https://i.postimg.cc/htBm35dQ/9822-F619-9391-4242-A895-C24-BA876-EE94.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qz1gNQQp)

Chemical blackened and coated with ACF-50

(https://i.postimg.cc/8kxML5kH/04-D8-F070-09-E7-4-D3-D-9-CC2-7-B292-BBE25-AE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0FWSJdB)

(https://i.postimg.cc/YqggRHhw/60-BD54-FD-5-D95-484-C-A247-226-E72574-D16.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bsysY4x6)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: czakky82 on January 29, 2022, 09:23:53 AM
Wow! That’s a lot of work for a couple of nuts. Well done.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on January 29, 2022, 06:07:55 PM
Wow! That’s a lot of work for a couple of nuts. Well done.

Thanks, it was easier to do than I thought.

I got the water jet speedometer bracket back and test fitted it, then made a coule bends to raise and tilt the instrument

(https://i.postimg.cc/kG8rCSkm/31-C21-C41-F32-C-4-A26-BF4-B-7-A4-C55-D93-AFA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MfW3bn6P)

(https://i.postimg.cc/YCxHj1j2/DABA9-FC8-B1-CD-4340-8-D5-C-C1961-F3-F1954.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yDW5b3F2)

the speedometer fits so the cable is clear of the headlight

(https://i.postimg.cc/mrXWyBQ0/26-CED333-17-C6-49-A0-B191-FAEBCCBBC740.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VSChYyZR)

test fitted the reproduction telescopic speedometer lower section, a complicated design when a longer flexible cable would have done the job

(https://i.postimg.cc/V62y2gZg/F0437-AC0-CDCD-4-A57-A17-B-DCBBACA097-AC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Kk7sMP23)

The reproduction steel two piece clamps do not fit that well, the telescopic speedo section is too close to the bottom of the fixed fork section, the gap between the fork tube and the speedo shaft should be wider

I think I will try and make up some better fitting clamps out of stainless steel and make some press dies to form them

Now to take it apart and paint the bracket and the bare steel shaft of the telescopic unit

(https://i.postimg.cc/FHvv9Prn/EF723-DA4-8-E95-4-F1-C-A552-8296-BBA5-A06-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ykLtjySF)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 01, 2022, 10:21:42 PM
My first attempt at making a press die to form new straps to suppport the fork mounted speedometer telescopic unit. I made the two part die from 32mm wide aluminum blocks used the lathe and the mill to form the pieces with guide rods to center the pieces. The straps are made from 1.9mm thick stainless steel, 19mm x 125mm, I have a small 8 ton counter top hydraulic press, it worked fine

(https://i.postimg.cc/PqwpDbMZ/921-DF2-D8-F0-C8-4-B7-C-81-EB-E62652273358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mczp2QNK)

The new pieces shift the telescopic tube about 2mm further from the fork leg, no longer kinking the shaft

(https://i.postimg.cc/VkT05ZXm/B82-BC0-B6-9-C06-4705-BF97-E51-FD228-DB0-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18G3jHWj)

holes drilled for the through bolts, edges rounded off in the bench grinder

(https://i.postimg.cc/W1tJNcF5/136-E0163-2-C72-45-DD-A7-D3-8-B178-CE50654.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k235sZyS)

One piece needss a pin to keep the telescopic shaft from rotating, I used a press rivet like the ones used to secure the Guzzi Loop Frame steering lock cover

(https://i.postimg.cc/tTdsSXw4/4-CDE67-E1-78-E0-4834-84-BF-9-A9847-C60-B78.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6FCqzvk)

These new pieces fit well and the stainless means I don't have to pay for chrome platting

(https://i.postimg.cc/RhMN2kxQ/77-AFCE8-B-02-A2-4-DB7-A9-D1-22-C987-DC90-CC.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJ4fzFCc)

Painted the speedo bracket and fitted the instrument and flex cable

(https://i.postimg.cc/1RcFMH1r/E23-D1-DED-01-B9-484-E-91-F5-37-A12-BC3-D9-A3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PNJN51xC)

One more job done



Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: SED on February 05, 2022, 12:03:06 AM
The paint and pinstripes look excellent.  Really like the spoke as hinge wire solution - great idea with the rolled threads.  The 15x1.25 nuts look great.  Strange that you could find a tap, but not the nuts.   Also appreciate seeing your press form.  I would have guessed the aluminum would distort too easily pressing on stainless but worked great.  It is a treat to see your solutions to problems like these.  Thank you.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Klinkhammer on February 05, 2022, 01:51:26 PM
Wonderful!
I'm into the 70's bikes but this is really inspirational. Maybe I should get an older bike...?
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 05, 2022, 05:38:58 PM
Also appreciate seeing your press form.  I would have guessed the aluminum would distort too easily pressing on stainless but worked great. 

Thanks Shawn, the aluminum press form worked great, very little pressure required to bend the 1.9mm stainless, I had the steel supply shop cut me 3/4" x 5" long strips of stainless, that made the job much easier. After forming 12 pieces there was some wear at the sharp corners of the die. I should have radiused the transition from flat to curved.

On a side note I watched several Youtube videos of dies made with 3D printing using a hard plastic. I was surprised to see the plastic two part dies stood up very well, some complex shapes were formed and they looked great.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 05, 2022, 05:53:09 PM
Wonderful!
I'm into the 70's bikes but this is really inspirational. Maybe I should get an older bike...?

I have been into the 70's Italian motorcycles as well, this is my first full blown restoration of a 40's vintage (30's design) bike and I have really been enjoying the process. Parts are harder to get but still an amazing selection of new, used and reproduction parts are available out of Italy, parts manuals, service and owners manuals are all available online and the Moto Guzzi Singles online group is a great source of help.

I like the design quirks of the 'Bacon Slicer' Moto Guzzi's, plenty of very smart engineering as well as real basic contruction methods.

I started to assemble the rear sheet metal today, I got the rear fender, rear rack and tool boxes installed, as well I put the 'right size' rear tire on a 3.00 x 19 (bike came with a 3.50 x 19), the new tire now has sufficient clearance to the swing arm.

(https://i.postimg.cc/7LH8bmRv/0-D885292-9428-405-B-9516-EEEDB93542-B3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3kcbcC79)

(https://i.postimg.cc/Hk41pfB4/3-CA19-E64-5043-4-BD2-A775-34-DF92-ED020-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZJBgFXs)

I ran out of original 6mm blots and washers so I used new mid grade 6mm bolts and in the lathe I turned the stampings on the bolt head off then dipped the bolts in muriatic acid to remove the zinc plating (zinc must come off to allow the chemical blackening to take effect), it works in seconds, rinse the bolts off in fresh water then dip the bolts in chemical blackening solution, rinse again and then soak in ACF-50 and towel dry. They come out looking great.

(https://i.postimg.cc/qqPHRrPQ/BF44-D8-E2-1987-40-D1-8-CB5-64-C1324-B05-A7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MfmFPCKj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/kgddPnFg/818-C1-C76-2768-436-A-A73-A-1-D55-BB8-AE6-CA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9r1kGHn6)

(https://i.postimg.cc/hjvk1hgp/51785742-6-A74-4-BDB-917-E-AC0-AA41-CE1-FF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJrp0fXz)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on February 06, 2022, 07:32:04 PM
Your press work ,detailing ,the mix of ,"if I can't get it ,I make it myself",plus all the pics /close up .To me a very enjoyable read .A 1 !
And I really like the Guzzi Single Banger ,everything out in the open .
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 07, 2022, 09:25:14 PM
Your press work ,detailing ,the mix of ,"if I can't get it ,I make it myself",plus all the pics /close up .To me a very enjoyable read .A 1 !
And I really like the Guzzi Single Banger ,everything out in the open .

Thank you Jorg, I am glad to hear you find the build interesting :thumb:

today I installed the oil tank, my painter suggested I rinse the oil tank out with muriatic acid to clean out any residue from the platting process, glad I did, some remenants of rust and who knows what else flushed out, rinsed again several times with hot soapy water and air dried. The plater did not adequatley mask off the oil cap threads, I had to work on the threads with a thread file for a good half hour.

(https://i.postimg.cc/yxgt9gqb/1-A021-F69-2011-4-AF7-A5-BC-956-EBE519-C65.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqV5c41G)

I managed to get a couple of the oil lines installed, I had the lines chrome plated, two went on without drama but two others were bent all out of shape from the form that I had sent them to be plated. Chrome plating these lines was a big mistake, the plating is thick and it had hardened the copper lines, so much so that I can not reform the line shape, as I tried I just ended up splitting the lines, I will have to order a couple reproductions, dissapointing!

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJB1ny7h/89726909-E909-49-BA-8-EF3-FAC08-ECC759-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygcLGRs6)

next job was installing the front fender, this should have been straightforward, just the front and rear fender stays and one bolt through a bracket at the top to the forks. I had replaced the fender stays from another fender * originals had been rewelded, poorly), re-attaced with new rivets, the stays appeared to be identical but it turns out they are not, slight difference in length of the rear stay.

(https://i.postimg.cc/tTgLqvBy/A2-E1-B3-C7-050-E-4422-B48-D-199-E1-E5-DD0-BB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mchst5kr)

this turned out to be a real headache!

I ended up slotting the mount holes on the rear fender stays by at least 12mm and machining back a ridge on the fixed fork bracket to shift the fender forward, otherwise the fender hits the motor :cry:
 
I filed away slowly for a couple hours until I was abale to get a clearance of about 1/4" between the rear of the fender and the cylinder head,

(https://i.postimg.cc/x8w7PfnT/07-C0-DEF7-9-E1-F-4-D49-96-F8-5-FF1-AC15-C70-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnhZxrDG)

tight, but it should be ok. I still managed the scrape the fender but it looks like its in the clear coat so I can hopefully polish it out. I also machined off a bit of the rocker arm access plug to gain clearance

(https://i.postimg.cc/zf7s1YS0/BF7-F2-F19-C33-B-432-C-B0-E6-9-FD3-AD4-E40-DD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CCsgcR2)

one other thing I did today was refinsish most of the nuts and bolts I unscrewed to fit the fender and oil tank, I had refinished them in the past but the surface of the metal was still rough, I turned the bolts head faces in the lathe and hand filed all the bolt and nut flat faces, then soaked them in muriatic acid, chemical blacken and soak in ACF-50, they look 100% better now. I will probably redo a bunch of other nuts and bolts that don't look that great,


Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 08, 2022, 06:04:34 PM
More mucking around with oil lines, the main supply cable with the rubber section in the middle is age cracked, not surprising given its 74 years old!

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQXMg2CS/72-B2835-C-7218-4572-B7-EE-9-B29-E73-CB52-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRhPckVw)

I took the hose to my local specialty hose shop, they make any size hose up to 16" diameter high pressure, brake lines, hydraulic hoses etc and have been very helpful to me with my strange requests over the years. Unfortunatley they were at a loss to deal with this one, the rubber hose is 8mm I.D. and the metal lines are non barbed, no ridge in them etc, just a compression steel crimp end at each end of the rubber hose. I was able to pull the steel lines out of the crimp fitting with little effort,

(https://i.postimg.cc/hj218GzQ/1-F1-ADAC3-7-CBA-4-F78-B4-A7-25-C4-E1-D82-EB2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9W7hhqj)

given this is a gravity feed supply line, probably near zero pressure I suppose this slip on type fitting is sufficient.

The shop did find me 8mm I.D. semi rigid plastic line and a rubber hose 1/2" O.D., the plastic line 'just' slides into the rubber line and the 8mm I.D. hose is a tight fit over the steel lines.

(https://i.postimg.cc/2jH0h0h9/F7-FBB196-3-EC3-4-C98-B208-CFA70-ADC31-D4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtkmP690)

I used my hand held hydraulic crimp connector, its used for making the bullet ends on battery and starter cables, I bored out one pair of the metal jaws from the jaw hex pattern using a 1/2" end mill in the milling machine to form a round crimp form.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cJNh02GC/B9172639-FE93-46-C5-98-B9-4-CF6-CC8-B3841.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5XnLmP0W)

(https://i.postimg.cc/QxwSnV6p/912351-A0-BA3-F-431-D-B20-A-56-A79-E2-B9-AC5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3djgkrQR)

this hydraulic crimper applies up to 10 tons pressure, I got the new hoses fitting as tight as possible to the original steel lines, the original crimp fittings have been compressed a little more, there is now a parting ridge where the compression dies meet

(https://i.postimg.cc/PJFKHqdn/C273-A65-F-74-A0-4684-84-BC-BA21-AD266364.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4HVpbsKW)

I love the detail that the factory applied to the oil supply tap, quality!

(https://i.postimg.cc/zfSjB7qj/2-E548-D97-2-CC1-4098-A7-AF-DE66554-E2295.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsr7Svjj)


 
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on February 09, 2022, 11:15:07 AM
Hi ,keep it coming ! looks like you progressing quite nice. Gravity fed hose , ... I'm in Ag here but we do Hydrl. hoses ,... your set up should work just fine .
Once you are done ,you have a nice ' Book' about this Project . :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 09, 2022, 07:59:44 PM
Gravity fed hose , ... I'm in Ag here but we do Hydrl. hoses ,... your set up should work just fine .

Thanks Jorg!

The Airone was not equipped with a rear brake light, only a running light bulb. I found a nice reproduction Aprillia two festoon bulb rear lamp that fits perfectly the bolt hole spacing in the rear fender bracket. I added a dedicated ground wire to the rear harness plus a brake lamp switch line.

(https://i.postimg.cc/sfJqgJ53/E0-F8-BBD6-BF2-D-4-F28-BFEA-E8452-D4-DB1-E1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjJDZCZP)

Reattached the original registration plate frame, I gave it a coat of powder satin black

(https://i.postimg.cc/tgPmQdXQ/D08-EBB6-E-07-BF-4490-9-DA4-25-A34-E1-CAEA3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3zvY9tB)

the Airone came with this Italian license plate, apparently from the Italian Forestry Service

(https://i.postimg.cc/7YYcGTN0/9-A819-D9-C-F423-47-DC-8-EFE-8221-EB6-EB635.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WtCSxzC1)

I use new PVC wrapped multistrand wire and PVC harness sheathing from British Wiring

https://www.britishwiring.com/

these folks sell every colour combination of automotive / motorcycle wiring that you can imagine in several gauges and many sizes of PVC harness cover plus auto electrical supplies (connector terminals, switches, fuses etc...) and they sell the wire by the meter and they sell braided covered cable as well. I have used them for years, no order too small and fast international shipping.

I finish the end of the PVC harness wrap with a short section of black heat shrink to 'close' the wrap as the wires leave the sheathing.

(https://i.postimg.cc/9F8kGFxS/E7-DACC31-02-D4-4601-AC3-A-091-B2-CF3-F330.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svWKzyC9)

Next to fit a brake light switch, I am going to use the standard Japanese style pull for ON type, cheap on Ebay and I am going to partially conceal the switch behind the left rear foot peg bracket using the foot peg bracket anchor bolt

I cut some pieces of mild steel 25mm wide x 3mm strap, the short oiece will hold the brake switch, the large hole is reamed to 16.5mm, the long piece with the small 8mm diamter hole will have the foot rest bracket bolt pass through it.

(https://i.postimg.cc/G2x79c8X/5405-BCA9-E051-4-B4-C-99-C9-B455-AA2-B261-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cg6MbGc3)

A quick stab of the MIG welder, the short piece is perpendicular to the vertical strap set 20 degree off vertical so the switch center line meets the junction of the rear brake pedal rods at the frame pivot

(https://i.postimg.cc/k4mYnV4V/3694-D7-BB-332-D-4-F7-B-A3-CA-1364-A18-BB17-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9wxH56Z)

I will powder coat the bracket then connect the switch and mount it all up.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 10, 2022, 07:32:41 PM
powder coated my little DIY brake light switch bracket

(https://i.postimg.cc/yYZRcMj4/32-ADD2-E4-9-A2-E-4107-95-C7-9-CC9071501-B2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VC3fXg2)

the brake light switch and bracket are hidden behind the left foot rest bracket, I just needed to install a longer bolt to take in the added thickness of the new bracket

(https://i.postimg.cc/SQ58XSWf/40804-CDD-6-BA5-412-C-A770-08039-A788-F96.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yWmWtzpD)

It all fits nicely in the limited space available and no new holes drilled, the end of the curved steel rod is clipped to the eye of a cotter pin that joins the brake pedal control arms at the pivot. Dedicated brake switch power lead connected inside the headlight shell junction panel, the brake light comes on as soon as the rear brake pedal is depressed, a win in my book!

(https://i.postimg.cc/CxpqNcrZ/D42-F7-C81-F69-D-4-C02-BBD5-A606-FF12-FCAE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLn3QjYv)

I removed a bunch of frame nuts and filed the flange faces smooth, re-blackened them and when I reinstalled the lower front fork clamp nut it split while I was torquing it down.

(https://i.postimg.cc/cCV8Phsb/E7-A236-CC-268-C-4740-B712-BEEE4103-D8-A1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MfmTQyf7)

I have stripped a lot of nuts and bolts but never seen one split before, I will have to make a new one, I have the M12 x 1.0 tap and will mill a new nut.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 11, 2022, 05:29:33 PM
I got the gas tank on today along with the tank/seat pad. The gas tank is a reproduction I got from Valemti years ago, it is the correct style for the 1948 Airone, when I got the bike it came with a later style all painted tank, I find this chrome / painted style much more attractive.

(https://i.postimg.cc/QxFBdFms/466-EBFE2-CCCC-4584-BA28-52-F69-C056565.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKLyhF7Y)

My painter did a lovey job applying the paint to the gas tank and the pinstriper folowed through with clean hand painted stripes

(https://i.postimg.cc/C51RD5VG/F8-AFDC18-3727-4-A20-834-C-2673676841-C0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cgp1GsCC)

(https://i.postimg.cc/rpkzjQkF/AEDC9-AC3-E9-EE-48-CB-9949-8-EB6280033-A3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsBXCdJL)

There is something elegant about these red agricultural like simple machines

(https://i.postimg.cc/509ydyyh/FB8-A8-EE7-13-FB-48-B7-AEBE-5425-F7-F8-BB4-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBPhcXpm)

I can't start it until I source the two missing oil lines plus I need a new front brake cable and a few small details to attend to.

I am kicking myself today .... the leg shields I got from Italy were advertized as Moto Guzzi Airone / Astorino but they don;t fit, the upper mounting tabs are probably for a GTV or Astore and if I choose to use them I will need to modify the brackets and repaint them, there is no cutout for the small oil feed line that serves the intake rocker. I was so stupid to have not fitted them prior to painting them. :cry:

Valenti has used sets for 200 Euros, I may be better off to just buy anotehr set and have them painted.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on February 12, 2022, 11:48:55 AM
Finding myself zooming in and out of the pics  :thumb: .Very nice work on all the details.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 14, 2022, 06:37:45 PM
the local hydraulic hose shop showed me a nice copper / alloy line I could try out for replacing damaged oil lines. This product is called "Easy-Flex", it is 5/16", a bit smaller than the 8mm O.D. copper line that was original. I used a lenght of aluminum welding rod to make a pattern, then coppied the thin rod with the new tube.

(https://i.postimg.cc/hvT40pg3/423-B2351-5-EAC-4839-A40-F-763204-DD69-B0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MfZ860ny)

I sweated out the brass fittings off each end of the original line and cut a section of the Easy-Flex. silver soldered the old fittings to the new line. This product is great, it bends without too much effort and it polished up to look like stainless using a buffer wheel and some rouge polish.

(https://i.postimg.cc/zB9XW9mg/8-CAFB126-B851-4-C97-AD04-A63397-EDCA72.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7GnkrtZH)

new polished line crossing over from left side of oil tank down to the oil pump

(https://i.postimg.cc/kXPg53vr/61-B739-C1-920-B-44-A7-B4-B7-0-B4-E87-AC51-B6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CdJgv22J)

Bottom front line is a new replacement I made up, the thin line above is an original I had chrome plated.

(https://i.postimg.cc/kMb59X8F/8-AB9-DDDC-83-AB-4-DB1-AD16-D3-E04972-D9-AA.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4mbDb0R)

The thick line heading off to the rear right is a new replacement

(https://i.postimg.cc/43234YBw/6-D5-BA4-C5-303-A-4624-A8-AF-E2344-E3-BB454.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqfSN8dZ)

Four lines meet here at the oil pump, in total there are six external oil lines, two thin and four thicker, one has a rubber section in the middle

(https://i.postimg.cc/85Fz7TYG/45-EB4752-ECBE-46-C7-94-E0-7-DDC2-CE78-B13.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpjjcnhV)

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 15, 2022, 06:11:48 PM
I made up a new M12 x 1.25 nut (plus a couple spares) using a little tool I got on Ebay, a collet block for an ER 32 collet, 22mm collet in this case to hold the 7/8" diameter steel rod, six sided collet block is simply rotated in the milling machine vise to accuratley index the part, so much simpler than using a large nut to index the cuts. Prior to forming the nut faces I drilled and tapped the center of the rod for M12 x 1.25.

The steel rod is 22mm diameter so to make the nuts to 18mm just subtract the 18mm wrench size from the 22mm rod diamter = 4mm, divide by 2 and thats the depth of cut for the end miil; 2mm in this case.

(https://i.postimg.cc/gJc8j2Hz/5-E3-AFF81-9-E32-4979-A0-BC-EEE98-CAD172-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1jcSMKk)

quick to turn out six faces to accept a 18mm wrench

(https://i.postimg.cc/R0LwvHfp/8-E530196-267-E-4615-834-A-26-EEA5-FC7-A74.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLNC4NS1)

part off nuts to length, debur and then blacken them, I like how the collet block easly moves from the mill vice to the lathe

(https://i.postimg.cc/zX4C7587/32-D89-C06-F5-F0-4282-8-D26-B076-A63-FC639.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mbH4DKH)

(https://i.postimg.cc/bvhQXTG2/95-B53-E47-2615-42-E3-912-F-C65-BA9-CC2-B32.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKdymRkg)

and the last nut fitted

(https://i.postimg.cc/mZXNcCn0/1-E601-A22-73-EA-4-D46-A14-E-20-B9-E156389-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mh9FJzBw)

Pretty simple to reproduce nuts of most any size and thread pitch with this simple collet block
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 16, 2022, 07:11:31 PM
I bit the bullet and tackled the leg shields, first drilling out the rivets securing the original strap steel brackets. Once I had the brackets off I could trial fit the leg shields and confirm they can fit provided I make new upper and lower brackets and figure out how to route the oil line from the oil tank to the intake rocker stud, will probably have to drill large diameter holes in the sides of the shields to pass the lien through.

I am trying to save the hand pin stripe work, these shields were painted with base clear so there is a good cover of clear on the parts. Hopefuly my painter can blend in the red abd then re-clear coat the leg shields.

(https://i.postimg.cc/wvjDf876/7-E5041-E0-1-B46-4-EA6-AA7-D-398-C173-AA692.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqGq5Wt7)


I reused part of the lower bracket and welded the tab to a new base strap

(https://i.postimg.cc/BQrcqVwg/787-C7-EA6-1024-4842-BA03-DF7002334-A94.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nC1Q20xj)

(https://i.postimg.cc/yNBmRSK3/E08-A2-ACF-1723-4293-87-EE-4629-D22-FB9-E9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68j4JqyB)

My plan is to send the new brackets and leg shields back to the painter with a handful of new steel rivets. Once the base coat is on the painter can set the rivets and then give the rivet heads a coat of paint.

(https://i.postimg.cc/pdZDJXVG/ABE5338-E-83-C6-41-C1-B6-E5-63-EE21-DA0-C93.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zLybJNgK)

Hopefuly I have learned my lesson and will check fit everything before I send parts off for painting. :thewife:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 17, 2022, 09:47:55 PM
I finished the brackets, gave them a shot of powder coat bright red as a good primer for the finish paint, etch primed the areas of the leg shileds to be repainted.

(https://i.postimg.cc/rm0YpX7N/6-D47-FD09-20-BD-4-E8-A-B433-CF90-F5-D15150.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcmtSKYr)

I plan on riviting the brackets to the leg shields, I have several lengths of 6mm diamter round head steel rivets and tried several lengths in sample sections of 1/2" strap and sheet metal to flatten the stud, I am using a 10 ton press and am struggling to get the rivet stud to flatten nicely. I tried drilling a small hole down the center of the steel rivet in the lathe, better results but not great.

Anyone have experience / tips on flattenting the hard steel rivet stud?
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on February 18, 2022, 09:55:00 PM
I made a new oil line for the intake rocker, again I was able to purchase 'Easyflex' 3/16" diameter copper / alloy line and silver solder it to the original ends, polished up real nice.

(https://i.postimg.cc/HLWv4TSb/E4-F10-E16-FE8-A-4327-B138-882-A543-B0047.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xrhgn66v)

I Youtubed flattening steel rivets and after another half dozen test pieces I ended up placing the rivet into poiston, domed head down on a solid steel surface, with the help of a friend holding the leg shield I used my very fine tip oxy/accet to apply direct gheat to the exposed shaft of the rivet, my friend held a large diamrter washer over the rivet to protect the surrounding metal, (I welded a steel rod to the washer so my friend could quickly pull the washer away) and then with my other hand I hit the top of the red hot shaft with an air riviter with a concave tool head,

(https://i.postimg.cc/kgvhb2yn/736-D4-E79-8-C14-460-B-AE4-F-A0-CA6172-B108.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sM1cFD88)

it worked great. The steel brackets are now rigidly affixed to the leg shield, now off to repaint

(https://i.postimg.cc/2jgJRR6f/DA0-D1189-8-DCB-48-D5-B412-8-A21-BE6952-BF.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3SpKQKd)

(https://i.postimg.cc/4Nt0XL7H/E6-EFE72-E-E9-AD-4979-ABDD-53-EF20-F36-EA5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WhN8n77s)

Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 17, 2022, 02:14:08 PM
Its off to the show tomorrow for the Airone, accompanied by my 1974 750S. Following on the success of last years two month long shopping mall show our local chapter of the Canadian Vintage Motorcycle Group is displaying 40 vintage motorcycles inside an empty store inside a shopping mall. I got the last parcel from Retro this morning and fitted the fuel line pieces so it appears to be 'finished', of course I expect plenty of fiddling with the running in once the show is over at the end of April. Unfortunately I have not gotten the leg shields repainted yet so the bike will be on display `naked`.

(https://i.postimg.cc/GmqT7Yvd/1965-FEF0-4963-4887-83-B5-F29654-AD5007.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fVSbkVHr)

The all metal fuel line components really finish off the look IMHO. All of these pieces were missing from the bike when I got it so I m glad they are reproduced and/or still available, the petcocks have the typical vertical fuel filters that extend into the gas tank and in addition the pipe that joins the two petcocks has a removable gauze filter section in it as well. No rubber fuel lines to rot out!

(https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngBxcR/6611-E4-BC-829-D-47-F5-9761-2-A6-DA545-FAC6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4YYYtL3w)

On display at Londonderry Mall in Edmonton, Alberta until May 22

(https://i.postimg.cc/Bt9BPLnX/A7-D7-A4-E9-0228-42-F9-80-DF-74-A00-B8339-BD.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkpL2Kc4)

Sharing window space along with this Ariel (and many more motorcycles inside the store space

(https://i.postimg.cc/RFYR9br1/2-A89-E06-F-8474-4655-BFD9-BA1-C8209-F8-B9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBjDs7xd)
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Antietam Classic Cycle on March 18, 2022, 03:49:05 PM
 :thumb: :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Huzo on March 18, 2022, 04:09:49 PM
You don’t need validation from me and probably don’t welcome it Canuck..
But I sometimes drop in on your build threads and am constantly amazed at your broad spread of knowlege and infinite patience. I don’t have anything approaching your spectrum of skills.
I know there are others out here who do similar work, but there can be no better as I see it.
A beacon of skill in your own field.
Another Roper, Kiwi Roy, Luap, Beetle, Meinolf....etc
I hope I haven’t embarrassed you or the others above, but I’m moved to ponder how marvellous it would be as a young restorer, to work under your tutelage as an apprentice.

Just a comment from an admirer... :bow: :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 18, 2022, 05:17:53 PM
Thank you Huzo, very kind words, I am grateful. I keep meeting enthusiasts who do amazing work, as we were setting up our show a fellow vintage enthusiast brought his 1929 Indian 101 Scout with factory side car that has been restored from a rusted wreck that was missing many parts, I hope to get to his level one day, sheet metal, paint etc is the best I have seen.

(https://i.postimg.cc/NGCLnMhn/F9-F1-C2-F1-7-EBF-425-F-8653-3-EC45-F432211.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LhfHYm8k)

What I love about this motorcycle addiction is between riding and wrenching I am never bored.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on March 19, 2022, 12:28:06 PM
I just stared at your Airone for several minutes again . Beauty !  :thumb:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on March 19, 2022, 03:23:36 PM
I just stared at your Airone for several minutes again . Beauty !  :thumb:

Thanks Jorg! I am looking forward to riding it this summer.
Cheers

Jim
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Jorg66 on March 19, 2022, 04:08:24 PM
Top Jim, I only had a Falcone [Nouvo] ,but them Singles are good fun.
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Dave Swanson on April 09, 2022, 06:18:00 PM
I just got caught up on this thread, and have just returned from throwing rocks at all my restorations.   :bow:
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: Canuck750 on April 09, 2022, 07:06:34 PM
I just got caught up on this thread, and have just returned from throwing rocks at all my restorations.   :bow:

Your work is top notch Dave, thanks for following the build

Cheers

Jim
Title: Re: 1948 Airone - restoration
Post by: mauriceetjeannine on April 10, 2022, 05:24:19 AM
Beautiful bike, great job!!!!!