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Thanks for that....Chokes not present on these carbs. Tickle 10x, crank the fast handle 10x, fires right up.....
You don't need an actual choke. At 70 mph, hold down the tickler(s) That will raise the gas level in the float bowl(s) and richen the mixture. See if the motor runs stronger then, indicating you were too lean. (You can probably get away with doing one tickler if doing both at the same time, at 70 mph, makes you nervous. But doing both would be better. Practice your moves first in your garage.)It's the same in reverse for the other test. No special tool is needed. Just close the petcock at 70 mph, which will make the mixture leaner as the gas level in the float bowl decreases. If the motor runs stronger when you do this, you were too rich.
..Because right now I can easily envision one side is lean and the other rich. Which would confound my result, no?
Thanks for that.I have checked every spark plug cable, coil wire, fuel line.
Oh and, temperatures are a solid 15-20F lower than they have been. Just to make things more interesting.
Before I get into all that, a couple of observations:The right side carb spews gas when you tickle it aggressively. Sometimes. I didnít know this was happening as I tickle hunched over on the left side, it just happened today that my hand got spattered with fuel. Squirt squirt squirt from a tiny port above the tickler. Whatís that mean? Left side dry.
Keep in mind what the tickler does; it pushes the float down to allow more fuel into the bowl than the float would by itself.So, if using the right tickler produces a gush of fuel out of the bleed hole and using the left tickler does not, what does that mean? It means the fuel level in the right carb is higher than the level in the left carb, BEFORE the tickler is used.Until you verify the correct fuel levels in both carbs, you'll be chasing your tail 'til the cows come home.<edit> I went back and read the original post: "Right pipe a little smoky, right tip a little sooty, left side clean."Another indication the right fuel level is higher than the left. Higher fuel level = richer mixture
The white floats are all 8.5 grams.
I believe it. It's all I've seen.
This is the double float for the Dellorto PHM carburetors.Originally, these came only in the early style, black, style with metal linking arm but these have been phased out in favor of the, new, white version.Please choose the replacement for your defective float according to the part-number on your original.Available in the following versions:7450.1 8.5 gram white - replaces 7450.1 10 gram black7450.2 12.5 gram white - replaces 7450.2 14 gram black - Sold out at the momentYou can order this size but the delivery time is unknown at this moment7450.3 6,5 gram white - replaces 7450.3 7.5 gram blackRequired quantity per carburetor: 1...Dellorto Part Number: 7450
My Dellorto shop states unequivocally that the white float failure thing is not just overblown but vastly so.He tells me failures exist but are very much the exception not the rule.
Now the bike seems to fairly quickly detuning itself. Starting to run rougher, and bogging pretty strongly when you smack open the slides. Smooth and gentle inputs all the time result in 99.9% smooth running. What fun is that!Right pipe a little smoky, right tip a little sooty, left side clean.Weirdly, this bogging on acceleration seems to be intermittent. I can't reproduce it every time.
I have an electrical background so I always blame electrical first, weak spark can cause bogging as you open the throttle the denser air in the cylinder makes it harder for the spark to jump the gaps. here's a simple test you can doMeasure the resistance from cap to cap each side, this will be the sum of caps, leads and coil. of the coils.Compare one side against the other, since you have twin plugs it will be from one plug cap to the other plug cap. I'm guessing about 8,000 Ohms each side. Do you have resistor caps, you shouldn't have resistor leads. What plugs do you have, they shouldn't have an R in the part number if you have resistor capsIf you notice any difference side to side please post all the component part numbers.PlugCoilCapsI hope you didn't replace the condensers during the refresh process, the condenser is a critical part of producing a spark and modern condensers are CRAP, you are better off with a 40 year old one when they knew how to make them properly, yours should be engraved with a decent manufacturers name, not some generic M.I.C.
So who has checked the charging voltage?My LM1000 had all these precise symptoms- when the battery ran down a bit. Between a good headlight and the dyna ignition, the charging system was too weak to keep up. I put a Euromotoelectric system on it and everything became shiny.
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