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Mysterious to me anyway.Context: '78 LMI, big bore, big valves, ported, polished, Dyna, dual plugs, etc. A Hecht beast.Everything fresh by a Gooz resto pro. New Dyna, coils, cables, wires, plugs, hoses, petcocks, you name it. Full carb rebuild, or so I'm told, this guy has some very weird ideas about how to refresh a bike.Had issues with carburetion when the bike was first delivered. Oh and it was dumping fuel out of the carbs. Back it goes, the old-style floats got filed or dremeled or something, as they were 'swollen' and sticking.Then another round of carb tuning.Get the bike back and everything is 'pretty good', until I finally get it on the freeway and discover rough running on steady throttle at 70mph-ish, also and especially when you whack the throttle.Now the bike seems to fairly quickly detuning itself. Starting to run rougher, and bogging pretty strongly when you smack open the slides. Smooth and gentle inputs all the time result in 99.9% smooth running. What fun is that!Right pipe a little smoky, right tip a little sooty, left side clean.Weirdly, this bogging on acceleration seems to be intermittent. I can't reproduce it every time.And just to add a pinch of fun, as I do this I hear some knock from the left cylinder only. But this bike has always done this. Huh?Start with the low end needle? Are these screws inclined to move by themselves? I twiddled em, carefully putting them back where they were, and I notice one moves very freely and the other has some resistance.
I usually go 3-5 heat cycles, so quickest is around 50mi. 32ft lbs is torque. Check pushrods w/magnet to see if steel.
I will say this: The electrics that you redid from stem to stern seem impeccable and they are in fact awesome. All the hoses cables controls etc, ditto.After that, things become less rosy, (cough, braking, cough) and in point of fact, the bike is quickly losing tune, and was never tip top. And yeah, this bike has always, as in before, long before Antietam, demonstrated some knock on the left side. As I say, mysterious to me. Maybe Manfred had a twitch in his wrist.
Mr. Mullendore:What you’re perpetrating here is a completely unsolicited and unhelpful hijacking of a request for assistance with carburetion.If you really want to argue with me, you have my number.Otherwise…
I'd start with plugs and wires and work back to the coils. Then check valves and timing. Then carbs. I don't know PHM's, but most carbs stay in pretty good tune if set up right and used regularly (Norton Concentrics excepted of course). Good luck with the diagnosis. If all else fails, ship the bike to 12 Shore View Drive in Orleans MA with the title signed in blank and I'll get it running right eventually.
just a thought, cable adjuster backing backing itself off?Those widdly 8mm nuts can wander....
How did the tank look? Maybe something clogging a float needle?
3.6.5 Selection of the correct size of main jetThe correct main jet size should be selected by running on the road, preferably by first starting with an over-large size jet and gradually reducing it.At full throttle, turn the starting device (choke) on, thus further enriching the mixture and, if this produces a worsening in engine running ie. it reduces engine rpm, it is advisable to reduce the main jet size until you finally get satisfactory operation.Other signs revealing the main jet is too big are a very dark exhaust pipe, dark exhaust gases and damp spark plugs and an improvement in engine running when the fuel supply is temporarily shut off.In a case where too small a main jet has been fitted at first, and the running with the choke on makes a noticeable improvement, you should increase the main jet size until the conditions mentioned above occur.