My solo bleed method is to get a jar with a lid. Punch a hole in the lid big enough to pass a plastic hose. Put an inch or so of brake fluid in the jar.
Get a plastic hose that fits the bleeder nipple tightly. It needs to be long enough to reach the jar when the jar is securely set BELOW the level of the bleeder. By secure I mean it won't tip over when you disturb the hose, which will happen when you open and close the bleeder. Attach one end to the bleeder and the other through the hole in the lid and into the brake fluid.
Open the bleeder and slowly pump. You will see bubbles. The first bubbles are the air leaving the hose. Any more will be air leaving the brake system. Pump until the bubbles stop. You will also see the old fluid come out and mix with the new. If you are purging your system, watch for fresh fluid to begin pumping out.
I push the pistons back by hand with the pads still in place, with a screwdriver or other pry bar -- with the bleeder open. This (mostly) empties the caliper. Then I close the bleeder and pump it up/bleed normally.
I keep suggesting that folks get a bleeder banjo bolt (has the bleeder in the top) and replace your front m/c hose bolt with it. Then you've got a bleeder on the high point of the line and life is easier. Bleeding becomes an easy one-person operation. I just wrap a cloth around the bleeder (and box-end wrench), pump it up, open the bleeder, let the handle bottom out, close the bleeder and repeat till the handle feels good. It's easy enough that I can burp the line in the morning during my pre-flight check.
Rear line bleeding can be made easier with a bleeder bolt too. I'll let you imagine how it would set up for your bike's rear brake setup on account of I can't see it from here.
All $0.02, but tested and approved.