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Warm the housing good and bang her down on a block of wood, that inner race will just fall out, careful of where you are banging on make sure there is some meat there, and I dont mean yer finger! DonG
So, stick it in the oven until it gets up to 250 degrees and then slam it down on a block of wood. And the small seal comes with it or does it melt to the side of the drive? Looks like there is a brass piece in there tooAnd if I don't heat it up: I was looking at the two arm pulls from Harbor Freight and the space in side to pull out that seal. I assume there is something for the pull to grab onto but it seems very tight. This puller looks like it might work for the inner race and the seal: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
Usually at ~ 200*F the outer race will fall out unless someone has applied bearing retainer. The thrust washer will come out with it, but the seal will need to be levered out - I use a large flat-blade screwdriver inserted under the seal and twisted to pop it out. I have one of those pullers and was never successful using it to remove the outer race, not that it's really needed once the housing is heated.
I got the grille started, put some tinfoil down on top of the grate and placed the drive in there face down, at exactly 200 degrees I heard it fall out. The seal fell apart and it looks like the metal edge is still in there and I'm reluctant to stick a screwdriver in there to pry it out. Should I stick it back in the oven and maybe it will pop out too? Also, is there a way to remove the spacer in the middle for easier access to set the new seal?Is heating the hub up an option to remove the race? I will need a two jaw puller from HF to get that race off and I assume the puller will have to be ground down to catch the lip of the race. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-two-jaw-puller-set-40966.html
Drive the spacer out from the outside of the rear drive after I heat it up? I was looking at the bearing separator at HF when I was buying those two jaw pullers, guess I'll take them back and get the bearing separator. Will I have to replace the race on the hub or can I re-use the same one for the new hub? Edit: OK, I got the spacer and the old race out.
Forgot you are replacing the hub. If you're reusing the outer race and needles/cage, then reuse the inner race as well.
Did you buy the large bearing puller or the smaller kit? https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html
I bought just the large separator, but that was years ago and mine looks different than the current offering.
Looks like a tidy repair! Glad you're back on the roadMine's running well save for the petcocks not liking to just dump the fuel down the line but dribbling instead.
Route the cables whatever way works best. Everything is tight or interferes with something it seems.
This is the way I have routed the throttle cable for the right carb and canít see how it can go behind the petcock. Is this the correct way for it to run?
Most (including the factory i believe) Rotate the carbs inwards 10deg or so, this allows the cable to run behind the petcock - if you have a look at pics you will usually see that the carbs are tilted inwards a touch.
I had mine set up with two individual L/R petcocks, marked BAP to a single inlet banjo on each carb. Mentioned the lean behavior when tank got low on fuel and Charlie suggested a dual inlet banjo and running a balance line. Fixed it right up. Ran all the way down to reserve then lower with nary a pop or hiccup. She's running good. Now if only those crazy stiff FAC dampers would break in....
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