Author Topic: 1968 Sears Gilera 124 5v Parts/Info  (Read 212 times)

Offline Bluezinharp

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1968 Sears Gilera 124 5v Parts/Info
« on: June 28, 2021, 03:51:04 PM »
I have been stumbling around the internet searching for spares for my 1968 Sears Gilera 124 5V without any luck, except some random parts seen on Ebay. 

Are there other models that anyone knows of with crossover parts?  I know that Sears only sold the 124 model for one year, (or so I've been told) but I find it hard to believe that Gilera wouldn't have used this engine on other models or the same flywheel, points, etc. on some of their other models.

I am in desperate need of a flywheel nut because mine is stripped.   Would anyone happen to have one or have any suggestions on where I could obtain one?  I would also like to purchase a set of points, if available too.

In addition, I have been trying to remove the flywheel to clean the stator and replace the points, but the flywheel will not budge.   I have been keeping tension on it with a wheel puller and spraying it with penetrating oil for days, but it still will not budge.   Are there any specific tricks that you could share that may help me remove the flywheel?

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions!

Bill
2000 BMW R1200C
1973 Bronze Beauty Moto Guzzi Eldorado
1968 Sears Gilera 124 5V
1967 Triumph Tiger
1951 BMW R25

Online Antietam Classic Cycle

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Re: 1968 Sears Gilera 124 5v Parts/Info
« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2021, 08:38:30 PM »
You might get a better response if you posted this in "General Discussion" instead of "Bike Builds, Rebuilds and Restorations Only".
Charlie

Offline cliffrod

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Re: 1968 Sears Gilera 124 5v Parts/Info
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2021, 06:58:34 AM »
Agreed- this forum doesn't get as much activity as the General Discussion.

Meanwhile..  I would

1.  If I didn't have the specs in hand, I would Measure the tpi/pitch and diameter of your shaft needing the nut and the thickness & diameter of the damaged nut. 

2. Be very careful removing the flywheel, especially if I didn't have a factory flywheel puller.  Once puller is installed and fully under tension, a sharp rap or strike with a brass hammer on the head of the puller's tensioning screw often helps break the flywheel loose.  Sometimes it takes 2-3 strikes.  The flywheel may noticeably move and pop loose or the tensioning screw may be loosened after the strike, allowing you to further tighten it to remove the flywheel.    Valve spring keepers & retainers also benefit from a similar strike using a rubber mallet before using a valve spring compressor to disassemble a head.

3. Old points and condensers may be better quality than new (recently made) components if & when you can source them.  Keep the old parts, just in case.
« Last Edit: June 29, 2021, 07:00:20 AM by cliffrod »
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