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Isn't that too tight? I was thinking the spec was somewhere around .010.. I'll check and get back.Edit:Ok, I'm back after breakfast. Gotta build strength for the day.. ;) looked in the V75 shop manual,and it sez:If it were me, I'd file a couple of thousanths off that end gap. It's *probably* ok, but out of spec. Better a lot loose than a little too tight.
Yes, I looked it up too, I probably could have slid a .008 or.009 feeler in there. .007 went right in with no hitch.I might just pull it and check it again to make sure. I'm going to get some clay tonight and check valve to piston clearance. See where that is...
** PLEASE NOTE: Some valve springs are progressive type springs. Progressive springsdo have more coils on one end than the other end to give the springs a specific character.For these progressive type springs it is very important to fit these correctly to preventproblems. The end with most coils, the heaviest end, should always be at the bottom.Some valve spring do have color codes on them, the color codes are always marking thetop end of the spring and should always be fitted on the top side.
Ah, that aero engine install was a work of art. Anxiously awaiting riding weather...for a first ride report!!
Interesting read about the springs. I've got performance dual springs and Ti keepers on my "super" Lario. It's got a modified mild performance cam on it. No valve float.
It's about a grand higher give a tad more. You're just getting in the "Happy zone" at 6500. Hmmm...
bump up the rev limiter on the current ECU.
max rpm on latest v7 is 7800, can be set to anything with guzzidiag. No need for a complete different ecu
Yes, I am considering going to a "My Ecu" from Australia. I have done quite a bit of reading on it. Either that or bump up the rev limiter on the current ECU. I have the PC V with auto tune. It works well. I can set my target air fuel ratios with a laptop. So far that is the one thing that makes this swap feasible, from an engine control standpoint. It will be interesting to see what the rear wheel horsepower is, once everything is dialed in. I'm thinking about doing a long break in ride, like out to Malibu, Ca. from Oklahoma, this June. Go see Todd.
;-T Thanks, Paul..
Cometic industries
Guess we will see in 50,000 miles....lol
A quick question, for those in the know. I am planning on using the C8HSA spark plugs, with an NGK LB05F-R plug cap. This should give me 5K ohms resistance in the circuit. The original plugs for the V7C are a BR8ES, a resistor type plug. Does anyone have any input on my plan to use a resistor cap and non-resistor plugs? Planning on using the stock Guzzi wires and Magnetic Marelli coils.Also, a quick correction. My rev limiter is factory stock at 7600 rpm. I think that will work for me at first, at least keep from over-revving the engine. I don't want to grenade it right off the bat...hopefully, with the components used, I will have covered all of the reliability issues with the 4 valve drivetrain. Guess we will see in 50,000 miles....lol
Plugs/caps OK IMHO - I use the same setup.
Plugs/caps OK IMHO - I use the same setup. Rev limit @ 7600rpm is fine. The progressive Nevada springs start losing it's control at 7800rpm although I have hit 9000rpm by missing a gear - no nicked piston, but still - don't do it ;D Ciao
Yep it doesn't matter where you have the resistor in the HT circuit. In the plug or in the cap, whatever. Resistor caps and standard plugs have been in Guzzis for years. Some use up to 10k but 5k seems fine. Its what I normally use unless I want more spark, then I cheat. :BEER: