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considering they used the same camshaft on the two valve heads, and on the four valve heads i would be amazed if they made a special camshaft for the aero engine.
chuck, open up "google pictures" and type in: degree wheel.lots of pretty stuff to print then. :BEER:
" Besides that, it would have included using a printer that works. "I have it on good authority from the intelligent machines coalition that when the revolution comes, the printers will not be participating.Quote: " Printers? Those guys don't get along with anybody ! "Thanks for the machinist wisdom. You have saved me some future grief.
Find peak liftread degree wheel 010" before and after max lift (normal rotation)As with TDC the middle of these is true peak liftread as ATDC for inlet and ABDC for exhaustFrom first figures you've got 108 ex and 105 inlet, more accurate closer to max but numbers sound rightThen overlap--- your 7 & 8 figures say it's close--- measure lift on both at TDC (same way)To be perfect measure all 4 lobes.Not needed for this comparo but you may as well get all detail on Aero cam if it's different-- this will tell grinder everythingThe box of sparks man here is CSPerformance (67 V700 barn find thread) bet he can make trigger work (programmable)
I may as well impart another pearl of machine shop wisdom while I'm at it. To drill holes in thin stock, a normal drill will make a triangular hole, and just as it breaks through jerk it out of the vise and beat you to death with it. ;D Seriously. You can get hurt. Here's how to grind a sheet metal bit. I'm showing a big one so you can see the geometry, but you make the small ones the same way. Do it by hand on a bench grinder with a radius dressed on the edge. Grind it so the point touches first, then the outer flutes. It will center on the point, then the outer flutes will start cutting, make a round hole, and won't grab. Your insurance carrier will thank me. ;) :BEER:
I dont get the 10 thou before and after max lift? Is that just to get thr degree wheel reading to half to read the max lift?
So only difference is 1/2 a mm more lift. While that is a difference I can't see it making a terrific change to performance. Why not try one of the 'Boring as Batshit and Common as Muck' V65 cams withnthe required drive on the front and see what happens. With less lift and same duration you know nothing is going to go 'Biff'. I'd still turn it over by hand before tring to start it though but I'm paranoid like that. ;DPete
I like the way you're thinking. ;D I'd get to keep my mechanical tach drive, too. I *like* my big white faced Veglia. ;D (and mechanical stuff in general) I sent an email to Milich.. he told me he had V65 cams with 2mm more lift and 10 degrees more duration. I want an engine that will actually idle. ~; ;D Whatdoyouthink, you gurus?
Me ? I'd run aero cam to try it, 021" is relevant, they went to the trouble of making special grind,
It would be cool to run all the original parts together so that's my vote......not that I get one ~;
I think it would be cool to make a ground pounding small block out of it.. ~; either that or a mild (but considerably more powerful than what is currently offered) street engine. Haven't decided yet. I get the last vote. ;D
2mm more lift and 10 deg more duration is what I'd be looking at if I were wanting to have something that made power a bit higher in the rev range but was still decent to ride (and it'll idle too). I'd reassemble what you have with the aero cam and light "checking springs", add the extra lift via the adjustment screws, and rotate the engine as Martin says to check for clearances at all points near TDC. I'd even add a bit extra lift to mimic the extra 10 degrees of duration since what that will do is get the valve open sooner and closer to the piston. This will get you an idea of what you are dealing with....if you have a mile of clearance then great! If things are close then more careful steps will need be taken. I like the thought of more cam in this one! Terry