Aero engine rescue

[charlie b]

I like popsicle sticks too.  Carry them in the tool bag.  That way when a throttle cable breaks while on the road I can hook up the new one, resync and be on my way. 

[johnr]

I used to carry 3 steel rods 3/16 diameter for the Rocket 3. Used them like feeler gauges.

[kevdog3019]

I use my ears. Two clicks means they're off. In unison means they're good to go.  Can hear it at even the slowest rate.   

[Rusty goose]

I use drill bits, learned how to do that on the Ural.

[johnr]

I use my ears. Two clicks means they're off. In unison means they're good to go.  Can hear it at even the slowest rate.   

That would not work with the R3 as it only had one cable and a solid linkage to the carbs. (one of a number of reasons I opted for that bike over some of it's competition)



This meant that they would lift together irrespective of their relative positions. It also meant that they never went out of sync unless you decided to disturb them.

[Chuck in Indiana]

I use my ears. Two clicks means they're off. In unison means they're good to go.  Can hear it at even the slowest rate.   

That's what I did, too. They were still fairly far out, according to the skewers. Maybe my hearing aids aren't synced..  ;D

[Morizzi]

Chuck,

I'm sure I posted that unis just use engine oil. A 50/50 mix with turpentine to oil them and just turpentine to clean them.

K&N oil is no biggie, just a blend of vegetable oils and food colouring.

Cheers

Rod

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck,

I'm sure I posted that unis just use engine oil. A 50/50 mix with turpentine to oil them and just turpentine to clean them.

K&N oil is no biggie, just a blend of vegetable oils and food colouring.

Cheers

Rod

I must have missed it. The next oiling, I'll do that. I figured oil = oil on that job. Thanks Rod..

[Dick]

More beautiful welding by Scott. I would never have tried welding stainless to mild steel.

Beautiful. ;-T

[Chuck in Indiana]

The boss  :wife: said I could have all day to play motorcycle  ;D so I started by putting in fluids. The dipstick on the engine needs to be remarked. I put in 2 quarts, and it is a half inch over the flat on the stick. Shirley, 2 quarts will work. Guzzi guru Sean Fader told me a good while ago that he doesn't recommend synthetic in the old rear drive because they have a tendency to weep out the seals, so in went 160 cc of 85-145 and 10cc moly. It's important to put a full liter of lube in the small block transmission to keep fifth gear happy, so I have a container marked for 1 liter. It's 1 quart plus 3 tablespoons. I'm going to experiment with Redline shockproof heavy to see if it quiets the transmission down.

Running out of things to do. Might as well hook up the fuel system. Oops, the 36s have a bigger hose barb than the 30s. It's plastic anyway, so it'll fail at the most inopportune time. Ask the crashed and burned V700.. get rid of it and the plastic crossover. The right petcock on the tank has a slight leak anyway, may as well order one of those, too.

Hooked up the battery. Woo Hoo! It's getting exciting now.. tweeet....
Lunch whistle, back later.

[Chuck in Indiana]

Need two of these. That will kill two birds with one stone..

[John A]

Is it too soon to remind you to take the tow bar off?  HAR Har! Just had an incident at the airport , a 152, first light off after a major o/h. Managed to whack the tow bar so a tear down and inspection. The owner saved a bunch of money doing it hisself. You left the prop off that monster, didn't you ? I'm betting on it makes a half revolution and starts. I'm anxiously waiting as I think many here are Chuck. Remember the aviation saying: If it looks good, It is good !

[SED]

Need two of these. That will kill two birds with one stone..

I'd bet Herdan's got them.  And they have great service - but you'll want to call them.  http://www.herdan.com/

Great thread Chuck, but how do you have the patience to wait for small parts when you're so close?!

[kevdog3019]

Need two of these. That will kill two birds with one stone..

Smart to do your crossover that way Chuck.  Very simple and neat; will likely go there someday myself.  Disappointing to know that they put plastic banjos on such vital components.  I hope you don't have the white plastic floats!  Best of luck if so.  

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Smart to do your crossover that way Chuck.  Very simple and neat; will likely go there someday myself.  Disappointing to know that they put plastic banjos on such vital components.  I hope you don't have the white plastic floats!  Best of luck if so.  

The black plastic banjos are made of Delrin AFAIK, so a pretty good choice as far plastic goes. Lots of folks use Delrin manifolds on their Guzzis after all. The black banjos seem to work well and for quite a long time, unlike the old white plastic ones which were pretty much crap. Still, metal dual inlet is the way to go.

IIRC, one photo Chuck posted earlier showed the white plastic floats. They'll work fine... until they don't. <shrug>.  :)

[Chuck in Indiana]

Getting exciting now.. hooked the battery up.  ;D I've been really wanting to crank it with the plugs out and see that oil pressure light go out. After all, I *have* been messing with the oil delivery system.. I know it's going to take some cranking because the pump has to pull oil out of the sump, fill the oil filter cavity, all the galleries.. crank crank..<sweating bullets> stop to let the starter cool. It's probably been 10 seconds, but seems like 10 minutes.  :o Crank crank, light goes out. Woo Hoo!  ;D Wiping brow.
Checked the dipstick, and it is right at the top mark with the stick sitting on the filler. Must be the right one after all. There was a *lot* of oil pumped through the engine.
Ok, let's set the timing. It's a little different than most things you do on a Guzzi, because you set the D cylinder first. After getting that one set by rotating the points plate, the S cylinder is timed by moving the sensor. It's a fussy operation to time that one.


 I walked through the Dyna S installation in the Lario Rehab thread, but I should have gone back and looked at it.  ;D I'd forgotten that everything had to be hooked up for the light to come on.  ::) Work the test light into the connector for the D cylinder (white wire) bring that cylinder up on compression ready to fire, and as you continue to turn in the direction of normal rotation, the light will come on.

If the timing is spot on, looking in the hole will show the static timing mark.

Oh, yeah! If it's not, you have to rotate the plate until it does, back off the crank, rotate it back until the light comes on, check for the static timing mark etc. Got it? The S cylinder is done the same way. As I mentioned above, it's a little harder because it tends to move when you tighten the screws.
Ok, timing's set. We'll just hook up the plugs.. oops.
Lario plug on the left, Aero engine plug on the right.

Robbed the Aero engine harness, snipped 1/4" off the end of the plug wire and had at it. I'm not particularly fond of these in the rain, but they'll do for now.

Torque the valve covers down for the last time..An unintended consequence of putting the head guards on is they have to come off to pull the plugs. <shrug>

As soon as we get fuel to it, it's ready to run.
I hope.  ;) Naa, it's bound to run. All the parts are in it.  ;D :BEER:
 

[Aaron D.]

Oh man, this is killing me!

[rocker59]

 :bike

[RinkRat II]

 Great Thread! On that torque for the valve cover, what's calibrated,the Thumb or Forefinger? ~;

  Great work! Standing By.
 
      Paul B :BEER:

[kevdog3019]

I use drill bits, learned how to do that on the Ural.

I would trust this and equal metal feelers over the others as the tolerances would be equal (or at least closest to equal).  We're talking slight movement after all.  To be more absolute than my trained ear about it anyhow...  :P
 

[John Ulrich]

Let's fire up that "Road Drone"!    ;-T

[Chuck in Indiana]

Let's fire up that "Road Drone"!    ;-T

Sorry, it has to wait for Unkept to come down to do the video.  ;) Or not. I won't even be able to order the fuel stuff until Monday or Tuesday. It'll Shirley be here before next weekend, though. Don't have the brake reservoir yet, either.

So. Before I waste 20 dollars, (Guzzi content)  ;D  is that fuel petcock rebuildable? <snapping suspenders> I see a couple of screws on it. If I take it apart is there something I could make or buy a couple of O rings or something? If it's not, I'll have to order it at the same time..

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

So. Before I waste 20 dollars, (Guzzi content)  ;D  is that fuel petcock rebuildable? <snapping suspenders> I see a couple of screws on it. If I take it apart is there something I could make or buy a couple of O rings or something? If it's not, I'll have to order it at the same time..

Remove the screws, carefully remove the rubber disc seal, (if it's not deteriorated) flip it over, reassemble. If you have viton sheet of the appropriate thickness and a good punch set, you could make the seal. 

[Chuck in Indiana]

Remove the screws, carefully remove the rubber disc seal, (if it's not deteriorated) flip it over, reassemble. If you have viton sheet of the appropriate thickness and a good punch set, you could make the seal. 

Thanks again, Charlie..  ;-T

[Turin]

A video would be awesome.  :pop  I can't wait to hear and see the badassiest small block ever!

[Chuck in Indiana]

Is it too soon to remind you to take the tow bar off?  HAR Har! Just had an incident at the airport , a 152, first light off after a major o/h. Managed to whack the tow bar so a tear down and inspection. The owner saved a bunch of money doing it hisself. You left the prop off that monster, didn't you ? I'm betting on it makes a half revolution and starts. I'm anxiously waiting as I think many here are Chuck. Remember the aviation saying: If it looks good, It is good !

Now, *that* was an expensive brain fart.  :o  It's hard to imagine, although people have tried to take off with them attached. We had a doctor (isn't it always?)  ;D That always was in a hurry.. taxied with the throttles and brakes..  ::) pull out to the end of the runway with a tow bar still hooked to his twin. Jamie, the tower operator, said, "Pre flight complete?"  ;D

[Chuck in Indiana]

Remove the screws, carefully remove the rubber disc seal, (if it's not deteriorated) flip it over, reassemble. If you have viton sheet of the appropriate thickness and a good punch set, you could make the seal. 

Well, that was easy. Forgot my camera..duh. Taking off the outer plate revealed a thin wavy washer, and the seal which appeared to be delrin or maybe teflon .022" thick. There were some indentations in 4 places where the wavy washer pressed against it, and a fair amount of grit in the assembly. Pulled the seal out, cleaned it and the valve body, rotated it a bit so the wavy washer would be pressing in a different place, and carefully reassembled. Viola!  ;D No leak so far after about 3 hours. I'll check it again tomorrow.
5 minutes saved 20 dollars plus shipping and foldling.   ;) Pretty good wages.  ;D

[Mayor_of_BBQ]

you got quite close to Shipping & Fondling there Chuck  ;D

[Chuck in Indiana]

you got quite close to Shipping & Fondling there Chuck  ;D

Oops, need to proof read a little better.. ;D

[Chuck in Indiana]

I've never read anything good about the original coils in the Lario, so I thought I'd check the Aero engine coils. I've never seen them used on anything but a computer bike, but...
the Matco Meter says .8 ohms. I *assume* they are totally unusable with the Dyna, right?

Another little project for this week is the mounting for the pins in the side plates. I have 4, and they all break here. I'll try beefing up the mounting area this week, but I have to run to the big city and get some hardener for my resin.

Another decision to make. I'm loathe to cut up a rare and unusual machine. I *am* an antiquer, after all. The fairing wings don't even come close to fitting these heads. The fairing works beautifully, and the wings are part of the reason.