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What makes you think it is not the stud pulling out of the block?
I'm surprised that is an M8 stud. Figured it would be a 10 MM. I have some spare 4130 chromemoly cold rolled m8 and m10 studs, in various lengths. Might just have what you need. Let me know if you need one.
Firstly, Do we know that it was the stud that turned when you torqued it up? (that wasn't clear to me. ) If not, then I would do it up with a ring spanner so I could check.
I would probably try and do something totally shade tree like try to put some upward pressure under the nut with a screw driver while gently undoing it with a an open ender.
I would tighten down a second nut on the bit of thread that's showing (carefully) to act as a lock nut and gently unscrew using the bottom nut.
It maybe that the threads in the casing have in fact given up the spook, in which case swear a bit, kick the dog, have a beer and settle into the fact that you have to fix it with a Helicoil or some such.
We've got faith in you, Chuck -- the bike couldn't be in better hands! ;-T
I haven't even searched to see if I can get 8mm dia. 4130 yet.
Chuck, how many M8's on the Lario? Is it just the top center like yours? I'm drawing a blank. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Zoro has the Facom splitter a lot cheaper, Nate: http://www.zoro.com/i/G4582487/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CMHhgN2St8QCFYQvgQodjjkAPQ
Did that, it's the nut turning. That doesn't mean that the stud *isn't* stripped though.Tried that. No cigar.Tried that. It stripped the threads out of the jam nut. There are only a couple.That's what I'm afraid of..I'm not looking forward to that scenario.And in that case, I'll have to MAKE a new stud to go along with putting a thread insert in the case. I haven't even searched to see if I can get 8mm dia. 4130 yet.
Chuck you build airplanes, your solution will likely be more robust than the factories....
Hi Chuck, looks to me the most effective way at this point if there is no torque left on the stud is to cut the nut and washer with a dremel type cut off wheel,slot the stud and remove it with a screwdriver provided the bottom isn't locktited. My .02 $ Paul B. :BEER:
A couple of quick thoughts. First, at this point you don't really have anything to loose, maybe latch onto the nut with vise grips to pull on while turning, if you can get one thread somewhere to "bite" you might get the nut off to see what you have re: stripped stud threads. I have used nut splitters a few times in the past (but don't have one now, else it would already be in a box on its way to you) and from my experience you might be able to get it started working on the nut flange, since there's not much "meat" there to cut until you get to a flat. Another possibility would be to split the body of the nut and then CAREFULLY go after the flange with a thin chisel. (Note in all of this I share your aversion to putting ground metal into the nether reaches of an engine!)Good luck!Howard
Tomorrow, I'm going to weld it to the stud and see if I can get the stud out. If it's stripped, too.. :o then, I'll grind the nut off. I can do a thorough clean up if I have to tear down the engine.. >:(
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1223I used some of these mil spec studs on my 4v build. I have a set of the 8mm ones. If you need one, I'll check the length and hopefully have one.