750S The Build is Done

[Hymes Inc.]

I drilled out, welded up, drilled, and tapped all 4 of my exhaust studs. With my heavier header ends I didn't like the 6mm studs and didn't have room for 8mm so I made them 5/16. Was able to do it on the bike.

[canuck750]

I drilled out, welded up, drilled, and tapped all 4 of my exhaust studs. With my heavier header ends I didn't like the 6mm studs and didn't have room for 8mm so I made them 5/16. Was able to do it on the bike.

Did you use the 850T / T3 type exhaust header clamps?

[Don G]

Canuck: You may be able to bolt it down to the end of a work bench by drilling a couple of holes in the bench and using some long bolts, that would be better than squishing it in a vice. DonG

[smdl]

I hope you are mending well Shaun, summer is just around the corner time to ride.

I crabbed my Eldorado today and pulled the transmission to locate the slow steady drip of engine oil out the bottom of the bellhousing, looks like the breather tube crush washers were not sealing. In the process of pulling the tranny I had to remove the header pipes but one of the threaded exhaust header clamps is seized, probably cross threaded as it turned with much resistance but is now stuck, I had to remove the head with the header as a unit to tip the motor forward. Why is it that every small job, in this case a couple of cheap crush washers leads to a potential head replacement and who knows what else??

I need to lock the head in a vice and try to get the header clamp off without wrecking the head threads, any ideas?

Cheers
Jim

Oh, no!  Sorry to hear about your situation, Jim.  I hate when a straightforward job snowballs into a more complex and difficult one.

I like Don's idea of bolting the head to a soft wooden bench top.  I'd also be inclined to try some heat on the aluminum of the head to see if that helps, and maybe a drift or chisel on the nut if a wrench just won't work.  Beyond that, it would likely be down to sacrificing the head pipe and trying to grind away the nut without damaging the head.  Once removed, a machine shop should be able to put an insert in, if you really want to save that head.  I might look at costs to replace the head before getting to that stage, though.

I have limited experience with this particular issue, so others might very well have better suggestions.

Best of luck with it, and please let us know how it works out.

Shaun

[canuck750]

Canuck: You may be able to bolt it down to the end of a work bench by drilling a couple of holes in the bench and using some long bolts, that would be better than squishing it in a vice. DonG

Good idea Don! I will bolt the heads to my work bench and see is some serious leverage can break through the bind.

Jim

[Hymes Inc.]

Did you use the 850T / T3 type exhaust header clamps?

  I used the stock V65 clamps, but I got ride of the 2 piece mess that pressed against the very thing flange at the end of the header. I made a solid steel piece that was the same diameter as the flange and stepped it out to match the clamp ring. Cut the flange off, slid my piece over the end of the header and welded it on. So far it seems to be the cats meow, but time, and miles, will tell. I did all of this because I kept breaking the little flange off the end of the header.

[canuck750]

I followed Don's suggestion, drilled two holes through my steel work bench and through bolted the head to the table. It took a five foot section of pipe over a big pipe wrench to get the nut off



The outer 1/8" of the head threads came off with the nut

I have the correct tap and managed to save enough of the threads to get a new nut to seat



I am relieved that the head was not destroyed.

Now back to assembling the 750S motor

[smdl]

Well done, Jim!

Shaun

[keener]

yes nice work...wondering how it ended up being that tight.............. ...

[canuck750]

The bike is starting to come together, building components makes the final assembly relatively easy.

I replaced the front main bearing and filed the crank oil feeds holes to remove any burrs. Then the clutch and transmission joined up.

The swing arm got a new carrier bearing



and new pivot bearings and seals, the pivot pins, and spacers were zinc plated



New bearing races were pressed into the swingarm



A new U joint dropped in to the assembly



I chased the pivot pin holes in the frame



Them I greased the transmission output spline with spline grease I bought from MG Cycle



A new U joint rubber boot and hose clamps finished off the assembly

Then the frame was lowered onto the engine / transmission and the lower frame rails, foot rests and shift mechanism and brake rod fitted.



MG Cycle provided the stainless steel engine to frame bolts

I fitted clip nuts onto the frame to secure the transmission plate





New chrome swing arm caps and rubber plugs, I replaced the foot rest rubbers, hardware etc..





Then I installed the steering damper and the crash bars



And the refurbished side stand with a new spring and replated pivot bolt



I need to go tire shopping next, maybe something other than the BT45's I have on my other bikes. maybe a set of Avons or Pirellis,

any recommendations??

[smdl]

Looks great, Jim.

How about Pirelli Sport Demons?  That's what I am putting on mine.

Cheers,
Shaun

[canuck750]

Looks great, Jim.

How about Pirelli Sport Demons?  That's what I am putting on mine.

Cheers,
Shaun

I think a Guzzi should wear a nice pair of Italian tires, especially a spot model.

What size of Pirelli do you run on the front and back?

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I think a Guzzi should wear a nice pair of Italian tires, especially a spot model.

What size of Pirelli do you run on the front and back?

Usually "Italian" only in name. All of the Sport Demons I've installed in the last five years were made in Brazil.

[smdl]

I think a Guzzi should wear a nice pair of Italian tires, especially a spot model.

What size of Pirelli do you run on the front and back?

Hi, Jim.

Sorry, I don't recall, at the moment.  Will have a look when I get home.

Cheers,
Shaun

[mgmark]

  :1: on the Sport Demons. I've used them on a few Guzzis and have always liked them.
Presently I have a 100/90 F and 120/90 R on my LeMans 1 styled bike. This might be a size up from what you want.

Mark

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Hi, Jim.

Sorry, I don't recall, at the moment.  Will have a look when I get home.

Cheers,
Shaun

On a V7 Sport, I install a 100/90-18 front and 110/90-18 rear.

[canuck750]

On a V7 Sport, I install a 100/90-18 front and 110/90-18 rear.

Thanks Charlie,

I am off to the dealership at lunch to order a pair.

Cheers

Jim

[canuck750]

I got a pair of new Perelli Sport Demons for $370 CDN;

100/90-18TL 56H front and a 110/90-18TL 61H rear,

cheaper than the Bridgestone BT 45's and at least they have a cool sounding Italian name!

[smdl]

I got a pair of new Perelli Sport Demons for $370 CDN;

100/90-18TL 56H front and a 110/90-18TL 61H rear,

cheaper than the Bridgestone BT 45's and at least they have a cool sounding Italian name!

 

[canuck750]

Some more small jobs, clutch perch mechanism, I powder coated the casting and had the adjuster spindle and lock ring zinc plated, cut down a used spring to replace the one that had gone missing some time and found a ball bearing to fit



All goes back together easy enough





The master cylinder casting was powder coated, a rebuild kit was fitted,



original cap and bellows, a new pivot bolt and that's done as well



Repro horns installed



And a repro lower mud guard with the signal flasher bracket replated and a new rubber flasher holder



I made up a steel plug to mate the breather hose to the breather hose frame bracket



And the last job this evening the starter went back in

[canuck750]

Some progress made over the weekend between work, Mother's day diner, etc,

I bought an Eldorado type rear drive off eBay a year ago to replace the Y3 type drive that was fitted to the bike when I got it



Installed the rebuilt shocks, new brake shoes, springs, seals







The pile of parts is slowly getting smaller and its looking more like a bike

[balvenie]

Pretty as can be

[canuck750]

Pretty as can be

Thanks!

I had new brake hoses made today, a local shop builds them while you wait, imagine that! They match the fittings, length etc and use high quality hose, I could use stainless hose but I want to match the stock appearance.



The fittings are a very close match





New banjo bolts and crush washers and a repro rubber boot for the master cylinder fitting





I fitted speed bleeders into the rebuilt calipers



I bought a bulk roll of fuel line for the breather hoses



And I fitted new NGK spark plug caps and installed the re-plated plug wire guides on the carb bolt, a little grommet fits into the bracket



And one more hose for the transmission breather



Gauges, headlight and signal lights are fitted, speedo and tach cables installed







A new challenge to figure out; the re-plated handle have the chrome over built so that the throttle tube will not slide over the handle bar. I thought of boring out the throttle tube but I don't think there is enough thickness in the tube for that to be viable.

Now how to grind down the chrome evenly so that the throttle tube fits???

[canuck750]

Breath in





Breath out

[smdl]

 

[Muzz]

Just too purty for words. Sheer art!

[balvenie]

Just too purty for words. Sheer art!

Yes; I don't know how you can stand to ride it, it's so pristine

[canuck750]

Yes; I don't know how you can stand to ride it, it's so pristine

Restored bikes are nice to look at but much more enjoyable to ride them. My thoughts are I restored them once I can restore them again. No one would consider buying a new bike to just look at and wouldn't think twice about riding it and getting it dirty and scratched up so why not ride a restored bike? Over the past four years I have chipped the paint in lots of places on my Eldo, getting the fenders repainted this week, no big deal , just time to 'freshen' it up.

I have an original right hand Silentium and a repop left. If anyone has an original shark gill (chrome or black) in great shape for sale please pm me.



Fitted the tool boxes, Guzzi specified rubber washers for many components on these bikes, the big bumpers are for to grasp the battery



Rubber washer fits between the frame lug and the back of the tool box



And with the locks cleaned and polished up the 750S boxes look pretty sharp



Inside of the battery compartment



I was not a fan of the 750S tool boxes at first but they are growing on me

[Dave Swanson]

So good!!!

[canuck750]

Thanks Dave|

My new Pirelli's are supposed to arrive this week so it's time to get the wheels ready, fitting bearings and rotors etc,

HMB sells a complete bearing carrier and axle kit, comes with two carriers, two bearings, six bolts with nuts and washers to mount the discs and a new axle, spacers, washer and but. You ,ust use the axle and carriers together as they are different from the stock units and not interchangeable, stainless axle, real nice parts







The old carriers are quite different, the new ones do not use a circlip



I had TrueDisc regrind the rotors, the powder coater did not mask the inner opening so the rotor will not fit over the carrier, a sanding wheel quickly removes the baked on powder





I fit the new axle through one carrier to align the spacer and then the second carrier and disc





I torqued the rotor bolts to 22 ft lbs and test fitted the wheel and calipers, fits great



But it is a very tight clearance









Rear wheel bearings rely on a shim between the bearing carrier and the spacer, this must be done right with just a wee bit of extra width to keep the bearings just floating on the races

First I opened up a shim I had in the parts bin



Now the spacer and shim are a wee bit too long so I shave a few thou off the spacer until its jut the right length



Then grease the bearings and fit new grease seals



And the wheels are ready for tires and tubes