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Should still look brand new at only 18k I opened up the valve covers and was greeted by this happy sight:Looks worse than it is, the grime/sludge wipes away without too much effort. Everything moves as it should. Methinks the PO (however many) neglected oil change schedule. Will clean it up as best I can and run frequent oil changes.I also cleaned up the intake manifold threads. RHS threads looked great after running a tap through them. LHS have been abused. There are some threads left but I may have to helicoil them.
Run Shell Rotella T (now called T4) for a while and it'll clean all of that out. Really does wonders on neglected old engines.
I was planning to use that oil; it's nice to hear it will help clean out the gunk. Really a great oil, especially at the price.I've been blessed that my previous Guzzi and BMW bikes have had trouble free final drives, so I am not too familiar with diagnostics. I am revisiting my bevel box now, how can I check its health (to some extent) without disassembling it? I feel no play in the pinion. Pinion and wheel drive rotation feels nice and smooth. The oil showed no fragments when I drained it. Crown gear looks good, as far as I can tell, when peering through the filler hole.
It's usually fairly easy to pull the whole pinion carrier out of the rear drive housing, it just slides out. Sometimes it can be stubborn though. Pulling that out will allow you to have a look at the pinion teeth. They're more likely to show wear or damage than the ring gear teeth. There's also an o-ring in between the flange and housing that would be good to replace. Guzzi finally got it right with that rear drive design - they seem to suffer relatively few failures if maintained properly.
My final drive also looked good from what I could tell, and I decided to only replace the large seal #45 and the one (out of two)#34 o-ring (the one that meets directly with the swing arm). A few thousand miles later, my final drive started dumping oil from the final drive all over the wheel and that's when I parked it last season. It was my final hurray ride that was a little longer than usual and that's when it blew.
My final drive also looked good from what I could tell, and I decided to only replace the large seal #45 and the one (out of two)#34 o-ring (the one that meets directly with the swing arm). A few thousand miles later, my final drive started dumping oil from the final drive all over the wheel and that's when I parked it last season. It was my final hurray ride that was a little longer than usual and that's when it blew. It's starting to get warmer now, and I'm just about to get into it this weekend or next to replace seal #45 again. If by any chance it's seal #25 (internal) that failed this time, do you guys think that can be replaced without removing the actual drive box from the swingarm/frame, or does the whole thing need to come down?
Thanks for the advice. I will pull the pinion carrier and examine the pinion. I think I'll also flush with mineral spirits and give the box a good clean, finally replacing the pinion carrier o-rings and big seal. Any tips for pulling the big seal?That's what I'm worried about, but I suppose there's no real way to know for certain until the bike is back on the road. Reading the literature makes these boxes seem like a real PITA to open up. Hoping for the best.
I've actually had a test fixture made that bolts onto the rear drive that allows me to pressurize it and check for leaks.
How much pressure do you use?
Wow, thanks for that incredibly informative post Charlie. When this bike is back together I will have to send you a bottle of whiskey Today I installed new steering stem bearings/races and the bottom yoke into the frame. No photos as my phone/camera broke. I haven't documented it here but I have also painted the frame over the past couple weeks, it looks pretty good. Will try to get more photos up soon.
Whiskey would be wasted on me - I don't partake of "adult beverages".
Hmm.. good test for reference for sure. If that's after flushing with mineral spirits, I'd say it's probably normal. Have you tried adding a bit of gear oil back in (even just a little) to see if it still does that? Even brand new bearings sound a little bad when they are completely stripped from lubricants, add gear meshing to the equation and you might get that sound - but then again, don't listen to me.. I'm having final drive issues right now on my G5 I'm curious to hear what others have to say on this.
Allright!!! We've got a roller. I like that dark green lower frame rail.
I've not had very good luck with the white floats - most fill with gas shortly after installation. What weight float do you need - 10 or 14 gr.? I have a few good used ones around.
Maybe I'm missing something, but I didn't think the flat slide carbs like yours have accelerator pumps.. do they? If they do, I am missing the whole concept of the accelerator pumps.As far as the floats go.. can you straighten the pins/stopper tab? As long as they pivot smoothly and stop where they need to stop, you should be good. I keep hearing bad things about those white ones, and I believe it. I've rebuilt lots of Dellorto carbs (vespas mainly), and anything "white" they started putting in their rebuild bags these days are junk. I once got the filter screens missing the entire screen parts, go figure. I usually keep the stock floats and filter screens as long as they are not cracked or broken. Also, NAPA sells for about $20 a 1 gallon carb cleaner can (looks like a paint can with a basket inside) that you can soak carb and carb parts. Soak for about 24 hours, and everything comes out nice and clean and de-gunked and works a lot better than the spray cans - just a tip, though may be a little late now since looks like you got them clean now. It's also usable until the liquid turns into sludge basically. After cleaning a few carbs, I designated that can to clean other parts and it also does a good job on those (bearings, and such). It's safe on rubber and plastic too. Ok, I'm done with sale pitch https://www.napaonline.com/p/MCR6402Good luck!
I have the Gunk brand 1 gal carb cleaner. Works well.On the idle jet needles. Did you notice the new ones have a different tip length. I think the long is for a VHB30? Or are they interchangable???? I would like to know why the different tip length since I'm in the need of a set for the VHB30. The 30's have an idle issue that I'm trying to figure out.Good luck with the bike!Tom
The long tipped mixture screws were "EPA", the short tipped are "Euro". Interchangeable, but use in pairs - not one type in one carb and the other in the other.
The old VHB carbs actually do have an accelerator pump setup, you can see them in this rebuild: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_carburetor_rebuild_-__vhb.html
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