Eldorado and the quest to ride a Moto Guzzi for the first time.

[LesP]

It would take some convincing to believe that. 
#
The ignition coil mounts under the main frame rail, the outlet end of it points at the generator cover and is very close, I could not get a right angle HT terminal and that is why it now lives beside the battery (LHS) so I can use the straight terminal I have.
By default that will leave more room for a reed valve baffle box.

I ended up robbing four Pazon 7 mm copper core ignition leads from my spares and removing one crimped terminal to make a coil HT.
Note to self, order more Pazon HT leads.

 

Maybe the devil is in the detail.
I elected to use studs and nyloc's, one of the cable loops (itiwtac) from the mill DRO kit will do nicely to hold the neutral switch wire.





O-rings from the ALDI kit to the base of the coil as buffers.... Oddly enough the ALDI tap and die kit included both in M7 which came in handy when more thread was needed on the stock foot control rods. (Saved a ride to the city to buy one for what most likely will be a one time use)
Those crazy German's think of everything. 

For the holes I spent 5 or so minutes and made a quick drill jig to suit 10.5 mm back from the battery tray and at 28 mm centres/centers.
With a mill and DRO its easy to make and when clamped to the job means the holes will be exactly where you want them (If you clamp it in the right spot)
Works very well over single holes also, mark the hole and place hole jig over it, clamp and one round hole where you want it.



HT lead separators.





 

[LesP]

I think it would be safe to say there is not one square millimetre I have not looked at now starting at the rough machined crankshaft sludge trap / oil feed cavity to the connecting rod journals (Yes that was de-burred and stone reamed with a final hone with a to size flapper wheel and then the feed holes chamfered on the inner side)

This box (oxygen/acetylene seam welded by the look of it) like most other bits looked good from the outside, even the original paint was nice.
Filing the seam soon had it apart for what would have been a reed valve install.
It had a pile of rust dust and there is nothing stopping that crud getting into the oil via the drain back to the sump.
I had been tempted to just 'stick it back on as is............

You would have to wonder what this bike has been through in the past given the main pipe goes to a inlet above the spinning crankshaft......... . Not much sign of oil here only massive condensation or mayonnaise (never up to temperature) to form not only rust but etched corrosion to that quality Italian sheet metal and mainly at the top.

Glad I looked, that crud could have got to the sump.

[LesP]

Just one ground, it got special treatment.

[Scout63]

Very clean work Les. This bike will treat you right.

[LesP]

Clean except for the beat up paint and faded rust, Ben ... I have about $2.50 in new paint invested and most of it went on that brand new blue coil and tail light housing.
I saved some money there.

I went through my parts stash (and found the 3D printer ABS filament by default) and found a suitable Lucas head light.
Its a real one and pre 1976 when they started making not the same reproductions.
Fitting for this bike as I think it will do a 24 hour no problem.

[Scout63]

I’m glad you reminded me. I have an oem Lucas headlight shell from my Commando rebuild. Maybe I’ll get it rechromed for the Guzzi.

[LesP]

That would look good on  a custom Ben.

The Lucas  LeMans 24 hour head light looks good but had forgotten how it attached having no lip on the chrome surround for W clips like British bikes.
Then I remembered the tangs on the back of the reflector locate in the head light bucket, steel on steel, so is a juggling act to get it located and the trim fixed.

The Moto Guzzi had the same wonky slot at the head light ears like Commando's so got the brass washer treatment.





The MotorSport shop that did the Moto Guzzi heads said they could re-bore the Sunbeam block but then the Plague struck.
I haven't touched it since my interstate move and the thread for that went over 130000 views long ago, I will list my other one next week... Keep the 1949, sell the 54.
The Sunbeam is like the Moto Guzzi, all mechanical right down to a unobtainium NOS bronze worm wheel and screw.





The dangers of liking to many bikes from the crankshaft up.

[LesP]

That picture reminds me why you should check things.
That gear box cluster is this gear box cluster after I gave it a spruce up with a tad of cleaning, new bushes (blue checked) and imperial bearings.



This picture was off the UK eBay site it was listed on and won it for under $100, a bargain.
The seller was a large bike breaker shop (A Scotsman) and agreed to remove the clusters etc from the case ( I rang him and did a how to on the phone) and then post them to me in Australia.
Anyway it duly arrived and indeed was a jewel in the rough (It would have been made any time between 1949 and 1954)

Here is why just buying things and bolting them on willy nilly can bite you in the behind.
There is only one place in the world that you can buy most parts for the Sunbeam S7 Deluxe and that place is in the UK and around since they bought all the remaining Sunbeam stock maybe 60 years or more ago an since making replica parts.
They proclaim themselves "S%#*&^%$T Engineering are the world's experts on these machines"

In the refurbishment of the clusters all new bronze bushes were purchased from them, the shafts are hollow and oil can enter one end by design, flow through that central drilling and I guess by centrifugal force exit via radial holes in the shaft to two grooves at each gear pairing. The oil filled groove would then feed the holes in the bronze bushes to lubricate the gears they ride on.
Seems like a nifty way of doing things but then again these Sunbeams are like no other motorcycle built.

I get the bushes and the first thing I notice ?
The bush at the top was one of the new ones, (old one below it) the holes were wrongly drilled at the centre so no oil could get to the gears, perhaps they would have galled or some other calamity in use.
Of course I contacted them but they were not concerned by it or perhaps knew no different being the worlds experts.



I simply made a mandrel and what was needed to index things and drilled the required new feed holes to line up with the oil grooves in the shaft based off the original bush and shaft measurements as a confirmation.











That is why it is not about being pedantic or cleaning things it is about mechanical fitting of parts or making what you have fit for purpose be they new or used.

In two days I might have done an hour on the Moto Guzzi.

[LesP]

I never saw that coming, the head light being a project of sorts.

Old classic Lucas head light reflectors have old classic bulbs that most likely give a feeble glow so the Le Mans is back in the box, I robbed the new contemporary genuine Lucas reflector out of my Mk2a 850
It is new and has a modern bulb which will fit the three spade loom plug.

Getting it all into the bucket is something else so the wiring will need some rearrangement.

The fuses removed would have taken a small power station to blow, new ones from the Greg Bender loom kit on the left.



The components inside the bucket are in great condition right down to the decals on the main fuse block considering their age but was soon reminded why I put a blade fuse unit in my 900 SD (which had those same fragile fiddly fuses)

[LesP]

That was quick I ordered some LED's from China, made from the best quality Chinesium and they are here already with a possible delivery before the weekend.

I got 10 BA9S in white for the 'police dash.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-BA9S-White-7020-3SMD-LED-Light-Bulbs-T11-T4W-1895-Car-Interior-Lamp-12V-DC/153648713012

8 of the BA15S @ 21w in amber which should fit the Lucas indicators on the Eldorado and Mk2a Commando.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-1156-BA15S-P21W-Car-Turn-Light-Signal-36-SMD-LED-Bulb-Amber-Yellow-Orange-12V/153686725253

The fully rejuvenated (internally) and bench tested Bosch generator should be happy with the purchase and will have an easy time powering the head light.
After screwing around with this today I have to wonder why all the bits are in the head light, a decent LED headlight would be nice but can not see how it could fit...It was like an electrical Rubik's cube.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

That was quick I ordered some LED's from China, made from the best quality Chinesium and they are here already with a possible delivery before the weekend.

I got 10 BA9S in white for the 'police dash.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-BA9S-White-7020-3SMD-LED-Light-Bulbs-T11-T4W-1895-Car-Interior-Lamp-12V-DC/153648713012

8 of the BA15S @ 21w in amber which should fit the Lucas indicators on the Eldorado and Mk2a Commando.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-1156-BA15S-P21W-Car-Turn-Light-Signal-36-SMD-LED-Bulb-Amber-Yellow-Orange-12V/153686725253

The fully rejuvenated (internally) and bench tested Bosch generator should be happy with the purchase and will have an easy time powering the head light.
After screwing around with this today I have to wonder why all the bits are in the head light, a decent LED headlight would be nice but can not see how it could fit...It was like an electrical Rubik's cube.

For best results, you really should use LEDs of the same color as the lens they will be behind.

A "decent LED headlight" is actually not as deep as just about any H4 and will fit nicely. I've used a JW Speaker LED sealed beam in several customer bikes and there are cheaper alternatives on ebay and Amazon.

[LesP]

I was thinking of something like a Cyclops H4 now that I have a H4 reflector back in there that will dip to the left... I should have said LED bulb not head light / reflector unit.
Of course things like the Cyclops probably work much better with a modern headlight/reflector even if you could get all the bits in the bucket.



What is there will do for now until actual use.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I've been using a Hella H4 headlight with ADVMonster Native H4R2 LED bulb in my V700, and it works very well. Just as well as the JW Speaker LED sealed beam. Cam just used the same combo in V7 Sport and police Ambassador. Fit is the same as a halogen bulb - nothing sticking out the back except the terminals. That bulb has been superseded by a new one, which I've not tried yet:

http://stores.advmonster.com/budget-h4-led/

[LesP]

I will look at getting one of those Charlie 
Like everything else, I figure unless a fuse blows I won't be opening the headlight again so might as well put a decent bulb in there and those ones won't need any more space at the back over a stock H4 bulb.



An email arrived saying check the mail box.
Same weird drill now.
Throw packaging in the bin and wash hands.
I will take the LED bulbs out of the package, put them outside somewhere safe since they came from China and leave them there for 72 hours +++.
Ohhh and hit the keyboard with 'Spray & Wipe then wash those hands again. 

[LesP]

There goes a couple of hours, I could have used NOS Lucas indicators still in their 40 year boxes but that would be to easy.
I did go through my Brit bike spares to complete a set that suits the bike along with what was on the bike.

The threads in the body get industrial silicone so they stay put and do not rely on the locking nuts being over tight (The reason the bodies crack when combined with vibration/harmonics)
The nuts get the same along with 10 mm alloy sealing washers.
The lens got Brasso metal polish which has worked well on this type of thing including tail light lens also.



Usual boring stuff, every single component checked right down to the fibre washers under the lens screws and rubber discs on the inner side.
I have enough old black wire cover to make four, pushed to the inside of the body via the mount stem bores to avoid any electrical shorting.

I saw Jim's post about what is acceptable as far as gremlins on a bike back on the road, for me that would be none.

This bike should be re torquing, oil change, check nothing has fallen off and then be capable of riding around the world, I do not think that unreasonable.
 

[balvenie]

Not unreasonable considering all the work you've put into it Les

[Dave Swanson]

I think it is safe to say that no one in the world has ever restored an Eldo to this level.  Way beyond factory specs!  It should be motoring on for generations! 

[s1120]

I gotta say, and Im sure Im not alone here..  Having been watching this thread all this time, and seeing the bike SOOOOOO close to running down the road...   MAN I cant wait to see the first ride report on her!!!!!!!!

[LesP]

It took a bit of work to get it to fit including machining the side stand pivot bolt shorter and using a standard (low height) M10 Nyloc, bending the header and cutting the balance pipe.
The whole exhaust is now push fit assembly as it should have been at AU$1287 + international post.
I used 309 wire but it will probably still rust but is out of sight for the most part.







So that is another self fixed vender screw up, no doubt they will blindly peddle that part, just remember don's bother contacting them you will not get a reply. 

More importantly my favourite eBay seller...

https://www.ebay.com/str/lamontsanfurd

listed a 4 piston R/H Brembo brake caliper, to my welcome surprise I won it as the only bidder for the princely sum of US$9 , hopefully the post cost will be favourable
I will machine a bracket to fit it to my 1974 Mk2a Commando and will go nicely with the original now Blanchard ground rotor  @ AU$128.



I have an interested party in my 1954 Sunbeam S7 Deluxe, I will of course keep my 1949 model.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

It's not a "vendor screw up" , it's a manufacturer screw up. The same crossover is sold by several sources and they all look the same.
https://scramblercycle.com/collections/guzzi-exhaust/products/moto-guzzi-exhaust-muffler-crossover-ambassador-eldorado-12123900

AFAIK, they all get them from Moto Storiche Italian in Italy.
https://motostoricheitaliane.com/negozio/collettori-di-scarico-moto-epoca/guzzi-collettori-di-scarico-moto-epoca/ricambi-moto-epoca-guzzi-850-gt/?v=65cac26844d0

Odd that they're like that - I've installed three sets of those mufflers in the past two years and not one of them had a malformed crossover.

[LesP]

I can not explain it and now notice even HMB Guzzi show the same balance pipe with the ends angled inward, I can only assume people who get that one just move the muffler parallel and the stubs bend to suit (but that would risk cracking the chrome)

At the end of the day the one I have looked just like the pictures on all those web sites and now fits nicely with a fairly large pie cut although it is now around 5 mm from the tyre.
It has to be remembered all of those web sites are run my long time Moto Guzzi experts and I haven't even ridden one, so I will continue to bumble my way to completion.

What is very noticeable as a steel trade worker is, the OEM 47 year old original balance pipe is of high quality and has a deeper loop (for tyre/tire clearance) and the curves are flowing, almost like it was hydroformed but am not sure that was even done back then.
Craftsman no doubt with lost skills.

The exhaust took a bit of work to fit in general but is done now.


 

[LesP]

8 mm bore rubber hose and original loom sleeve.
 

[LesP]

Cranking plugs out.

[LesP]

I am not to bad on some of the more complicated things but sometimes the more straight forward catch me out.

The headlight was not plugged in and the tail light was staying on with the ignition turned on so figured I must have plugged some wires in incorrectly.
This morning I tested a notion that occurred to me, perhaps it was due to something simple and indeed when I went to the handlebar turning the light switch to off did just that, no wonder this bike has taken so long to date. 

The Charlie M tail light with Greg Bender wiring is now working like a charm.

[s1120]

I am not to bad on some of the more complicated things but sometimes the more straight forward catch me out.

The headlight was not plugged in and the tail light was staying on with the ignition turned on so figured I must have plugged some wires in incorrectly.
This morning I tested a notion that occurred to me, perhaps it was due to something simple and indeed when I went to the handlebar turning the light switch to off did just that, no wonder this bike has taken so long to date. 

The Charlie M tail light with Greg Bender wiring is now working like a charm.

Been there!!  Tracing down a skipping, stalling issue on my Cali stone..  Ya, turned out there was no gas in it...  Fuel light wasnt on, so I didnt even thing about it. 

[balvenie]

You did your best Les. Hopefully when both you and the Eldo is on the road, those kinds of experience will be forgotten

[LesP]

Its all good Bill... just another roll of the eyes and move on.......... I guess I never mentioned, way back when I was advertising for a gearbox (I ended up ringing Rex off US Craigslist and getting one for AU$700 posted) I was contacted by a name player who I will not name for fear (not) of being banned here or on the Loop FB page 
He tried to sell me a box that was not only obviously rusty but had trashed dogs, total junk and would have cost some $400 to get here, when I declined, politely of course I never heard back... He is probably still thinking I am a whiner and he was doing me a favour. 

I actually got two gearbox offers like that off these websites, both junk but it worked out in the end. 

Sometimes I think why help other people but ...well you know.

My first dealing with a Moto Guzzi person was (and a member of this site) when no one would help them.. in the world and saw this thread (ADV Rider) go on and on.........I worked 28 days away from home, 6 days back (or 9 months away from home per year)
I see this thread then pages long so offer to machine the part off his measurements,
It took a decent chunk out of one of those 6 precious days....... I machine it, he says how much, I say lets wait until it gets to the US.

That is free machining, free post.
He gets it and asks how much, I reply, no charge.

I never heard anything back.

You can't hold onto that kind of thing as a negative thought, its just a reminder the next person might appreciate it and should charge for the service.

The only down side (The list of BS over the the duration is much bigger than I am letting on) is my motivation is effected by it...... I would say my time on the bike today was under 10 minutes and what I made went in the bin.
Total time for Monday through to today (Wednesday) would be somewhere around 30 minutes, it is what it is.

[balvenie]

You're a generous person Les Just look out for those "bumps", eh

[LesP]

The good thing about new days is there will be another one tomorrow if this one has bumps Bill

I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new ignition switch and be done with it so found a place (Beewah) that had genuine you beauty, Made in England LUCAS ignition switches @ $77.50, a small price to pay for a quality part and it even came in a pretty green box.
I was asked on the phone if I wanted a replica type switch as the 'you beauty real deal Lucas version was a little pricey, I said Lucas genuine for me thank you for asking.

It is a little late in the piece to be worrying abut money now (even though unemployed)
So I jump in the trusty old Golf and head off, the first major drive since I do not remember for a trip of over two hours return on a wet and windy drive, motorway and country roads.

I get there after paying on the phone to pick up my socially distanced purchase in its little sealed bag sitting on a outside table, a quick chat with a woman who appeared at a near by garage door and was off again.

I did not look at the switch so waited until home to unbox this fantastic purchase that will probably last 50 years.. (Haha, yeah right)

All I can say is it must have been made in the Lada factory in the 1980's and the action is probably more suited to a T34 tank, the body is some form of pressed alloy with a thread with melted plastic on the end , as a bonus the one tumbler key barrel      when you push it into the plastic inner body slot does not lock as the spring loaded pin will not engage because the hole for it is off set in the slot it goes into. (faulty)
That means if turned on you can pull the whole tumbler out... 

I will have to drive all the way back up there tomorrow and see if I can get a refund but based on pass experiences am not optimistic.
Usual story, otherwise going well.

[balvenie]

I feel very bad about that Les
Raises all sorts of questions but if you are laughing........... ...
Well, stay cool Les but it really is a Bitch.