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Inspect it for bearing failure.
Not to scare or alarm anyone but info that might help others beware.This is related to my Norge with only a few thousand miles from new, model year 2013. Initial service has been done.About 300 miles ago I notice one small drop of what looked like oil on the rear wheel. I got under the rear end of the Norge and looked around but couldn't see anything out of the ordinary. I chalked it up to a stray drop from the last time I drained the clear plastic overflow tube (I do this after each ride) thinking maybe a drop was left on the plug when I inserted it before the ride. I park the bike inside, do not ride it in the rain and always look all around and under before taking it out.Yesterday I needed to take a 200 mile drive so I rode instead. Checking underneath and all around there was nothing out of the ordinary. I always run a paper towel underneath because it will catch something I might not see so easily. Nothing.I rode the first leg of about 100 miles, some freeway and some rural roads. On the return I filled the fuel tank and again did my check. When riding I always check with the paper towel and look at each fuel stop and if stopped otherwise I do a look see. Nothing.
Isnt the universe an amazing thing, he who is obviously paranoid about CARC leaks ( paper towel check every fuel stop!!) is duly presented with one. Those who aren't, well aren't,it seems.
Isnt the universe an amazing thing, he who is obviously paranoid about CARC leaks ( paper towel check every fuel stop!!) is duly presented with one. Those who aren't, well aren't,it seems.Ciao
....What really has me going is that the tires aren't flat because I check them as well....
Bike is still under warranty for quite a while so I'll let the dealer fix it. I'll mentioned the loctite, the shop isn't so uptight about hints like that. I grease the skids there so it shouldn't be a problem.I appreciate the new info though because it seemed like it was the bevel box the swing arm seal. I'd had never thought they would through drill a hole for a cable stay, who knows, maybe it was a way to see if things were leaking inside.
Ding, Ding! We have a winner! It's a nice EWS. If you didn't see the drip you could loose sufficient oil from the bevelbox to end up damaging the gears and bearings.Pete
Just open the fill/level plug and have a look. As long as you can see oil it's good to go. If you can't see it? Top it up until it's at the bottom of the fillet threads.If your shop is interested I can advise them on how to go about loctiting the pinion nut. Guzzi tells us that the CARC bevel system and reactive bridge is non serviceable which is of course a lot of kack but the preload is maintained by a collapsible spacer that acts like a spring between the two bearing outer races of the pinion. The nut itself and its lockwasher are the same ones that were used to hold the crank sprocket on to the crank on a T3/LeMans and an 'Industry Standard' for such a system would be around 40-60 inch pounds. When I replaced my CARC internals after mine dumped it's preload I tapped down the tab washer tang and undid the nut. Discarded the tab washer replacing it with a new one and then used first some Loctite 243 on the threads before torquing it to 50 inch pounds. I then locked it with the tab washer and dripped some wick-in around the top of the threads for good measure.Why the silly sods at the factory don't do this when they assemble the poxy things is beyond me? ??? ::)Pete