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Bummer- someone already mentioned heat. Another bit of hard won knowledge is that standard "Easy Outs" are anything but. The only ones that have worked consistently for me are straight flute types sold by snap on. RE finishing aluminum- your nemesis is "filiform corrosion". It's the microscopic thin layer of oxidation that must be removed before you paint the part. Sure, bead blasting beats the corrosion off- but that also means a total teardown. In my business, we have lots of alum corrosion. You need to etch the surface with acid, then treat with a "conversion coat" to stabilize the surface. Different acids etch different alloys. Aluminum etch kits typically use phosphic- though i don't find it super effective. There's also hydroflouric (Zep-Alum- found where they maintain fleets of bright finished aluminum tractor trailers). It is VERY dangerous to use. Another thought is to contact the folks at Airstream and seee what chemicals they would recommend. Remember- buffing merely folds the corrosion into the surface. The conversion coating is a chromate base that basically neutralizes the surface. Do not etch/prep the surface until you are ready to paint. If it sounds like a pain in the ass- it is. However, teearing it all apart in 4 years to do it over again is as well.
Here's another thought- check with your local auto body supply store. They usually have very good, pro quality materials. They must have some prep system for repairing aluminum body panels, like on the high end Audis. Any local body shop that does high end warranty work on Audis should know just what we're talking about.
I didn't realize the hole didn't go all the way across, but it looks like you have what you need there. Did I understand you can source the bearings locally but there is no real break in price or you are having trouble finding them locally? As you probably already know 3303 denotes the size of the bearing. There would also be a 2RS along with that denoting 2 rubber seals. I wouldn't expect you would have any trouble pulling them out.Have you checked with NAPA? I have had a lot of success with them for very resonable cost. Worst was I had to wait until tomorrow for them to get something in, but that has not been a issue to me so far.On a slightly unrelated note, but very important, there is a small needle bearing on the outside of the rear drive. The needles are in there loose. There is no inside race. Be careful not to lose them. That bearing is a pricey little bugger. About 80 bucks so I have heard. If it were me, I would get the needles out of there for now, count them and put them in a baggie with a slip of paper bearing the count. On reassembly, grease will hold them in place until you slip the axel back in.John Henry
Joe- here's another thought:Strip the paint off the rear drive and.......leave it natural.Think about it- so it goes gray after a while, who cares? if you spend a little time to smooth the finish now, it will be easy enough to clean if you're bored and feeling anal. Otherwise, you won't really have to worry about what you spill on it, if a stray rock flys up and chips the finish, etc.
Bare aluminum is fine if you like white freckles.
I'll stick by my strip it, paint it with Harley wrinkle paint, and forget about it suggestion. ;)
I sent mine to Cogent Dynamics. http://www.motocd.com/mc/
I've also been chasing a 30amp fuse melting situation since I bought the bike, I think it's narrowed down to fuse box or battery ground... <shrug> Some of you may remember me changing a worn starter because of this issue. Back in Iowa! :D
If the plastic fuse casing is melting, as opposed to the foil element inside, look for a bad connection at the fuse blades. The next thing to melt will be the fuse block ($$$$).
Thanks guys. I just hope I can get this thing back up and running before the warm weather truly hits... otherwise I'm stealing the Breva! ;DChuck, I do think I can get those bearings cheaper, but to pull the old bearings... I may need your assistance. I've read horror stories on the LeMans board. :oEdit: Found the bearing on Amazon, may look at a bearing shop as well just in case...http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VG9APC/ref=biss_dp_t_asn $62.00 shipped.Also, on MG Cycle!http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=2838 $55.40, without shipping.Bearing is an SKF 3303 A-2RS1TN9/MT33
I love the chaos. Stuff sprawled out all over the floor. Reminds me of a poster I once saw of the artist Alexander Caldwell working in his studio. Just suggestion have you thought of making a work bench? Maybe just a couple of saw horses and a sheet plywood. Someone once told me a story about a company that made woodworking benches in Africa. He went to visit the facility and all of the workers were building these beautiful woodworking benches on the floor. Funny.