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Having the rear wheel elevated and in gear is one option. I service my bike on my lift, front wheel in a chock, on it's rear wheel, so I use the other method, without having to lift the wheel. Remove the plugs, pull the front alternator cover and turn the engine over by the crank. Remove the plug on the fly wheel and read the marks Mandello put there to find TDS. No harm doubling up using the chopstick method as well.
Just did my V85. Bike in second gear on side stand. Both spark plugs removed. Use a thumb or finger to cover spark plug hole. Gently move bike forward little by little until you feel pressure on your finger. This is the compression stroke. Then put a plastic straw or similar in the spark plug hole and slowly repeat rocking the bike forward and feel the straw come up. You will get to a point quickly that you feel the engine turn and the straw does not move. This is close to TDC. Check the valves. Hope this helps.
Hi. Thank you, this does help a lot. But what about making sure the intake valve is at its lowest point before adjusting the position of the piston? The videos I've seen indicate that this is important. But it seems that the rear wheel rotation you have to do to adjust the piston to TDC would also change the position of the intake valve. Or is that just obvious, and the valves are supposed open and close as you move the piston to TDC?
Though personally on anything with a dry alternator I prefer to remove the alternator cover and turn the engine slowly and precisely using a wrench on the crank rotor nut.
Is it possible to get the piston to TDC without a center stand or jack? I.e., can I get the bike in a higher gear by rocking the rear wheel on the ground, and then get the piston moving by rolling it gently and slowly? Or is this inadvisable? Thats a method I use sometimes, I sit astride the bike in top gearAlso, from what I can tell from youtube tutorials, you want the intake (rear) valve at its lowest point before you start moving the piston to TDC, and you get the intake valve there by rotating the rear wheel. But then you also get the piston to TDC by rotating the rear wheel as well? So wouldn't doing that change the position of the intake valve No just take it back 1/2" or so then approach TDC againJust a little confused here.Thanks, y'all.edit: edited exhaust valve to intake valve. Had them confused.
His smallblock looks a little different, but that's the right idea.I'm also think he might not have timing marks on the flywheel, but I'm not positive. I know I don't on my later 13, but his 10, not completely sure.My CARC big block was really convenient, there was a plug in the center of the alternator cover for access with a socket. I didn't even have to remove the cover.
This-- if, as noted, you have the dry alternator
You can drill/cut a hole in the plastic alternator cover, then add your own rubber plug. When I had my V7 I acquired an extra cover to do just that. You’re welcome to it if you want it?
Kev, this is on my truck. Don't ask, we will have to get a political thread going, and the never goes good.how to change your pc screen resolution