"Sportified" 1976 Morini 3 1/2 Strada

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Oh, that's right, I do recall reading that they had electronic ignition.   Cool!   Carbs will definitely be the first thing I take care of, along
with the cam belt.   I need to get a decent flywheel puller, as I only have a 2-arm one that keeps trying to fall over at a slight angle when
I try to use it.  I don't want to disk bending the nose of the crank.  I'll get a 3-arm one.

Use the correct puller - it threads into the center of the flywheel. It's M27-1.25 thread.

Good to know -- thanks!

Also, all indications are that this is a 1975, not a 1976 (just titled as a 1976).     The paint scheme, the fuel tank and side covers shape ('76 have sharper corners, '75 more rounded), and the VIN all say 1975 (which looks better, IMHO).

Like most Italian motorcycle companies, there is no definitive "this part was used only during this period". My '77 Strada has the rounded side covers. 

[jas67]

Use the correct puller - it threads into the center of the flywheel. It's M27-1.25 thread.

Thank you again for saving me from myself.   I don't know why I didn't notice the threads in the center of the flywheel.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Do you have the factory shop manual? It's available as a download here in the Files section of the "Moto Morini Motorcycles" Facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/motomorinigroup/permalink/1283241401791151
There's also a parts manual download.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/motomorinigroup/permalink/1283242045124420

Herdan Corp. did a shop manual as well, has a lot of helpful information.

[jas67]

Update on the 3 1/2...

I was about to pull the carbs for a full tear down to inspect and clean, but, first I went for real low-hanging fruit.  I pulled the jet holders and measured the fuel in the bowls, it was about the same.   Just for grins, I swapped the float bowl nuts (which also hold the main jets) started it up, and warmed it up.   It idles way too fast with both enricheners on, so, I alternated them until it was warmed up and got equal temps on the exhaust ports and got it to idle with them both off.   Then I took it for a ride.   It ran great, most of the time, but, sometimes hesitated under 3/4 to full throttle.   I think there is likely gunk of some kind in the holder/jet that was in the rear, and by removing them, I disturbed it enough to get it to at least run on both cylinders.    I’ll pull both out and take the jets out and give them a good cleaning.   It idles fine once warmed up, and is running well aside from the little hesitation that it does under power (thinking main jet gunk), so, I likely won’t pull the rest of the carbs apart if cleaning the main and holders does the job.

Pic after getting back home from riding it late yesterday afternoon.


I definitely love riding the Morini!    It just may be my new favorite vintage bike to ride, a title that my Ducati 750GT has had for the 2 1/2 years that I’ve owned it.  It is like a small block Guzzi, but, much lighter, and of course, the engine runs at higher revs, but, is not buzzy or peaky or anything like that.

It feels as light to ride (though, is actually about 50# heavier) as my Ducati Monza 250, but, with nearly twice the power (not that it is powerful, but, the 250 is kinda slow).    I’d love to be able to find a double drum brake for the from though, as the brakes are a little lacking, but, adequate for its light weight.   It definitely feels more nimble than my '76 Honda CB400F, which is of course, similar in displacement and vintage.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

 

[jas67]

Today probably the last day with the temps around 50F, so, might be the last ride for the little Morini
until spring as I will likely stick to my R1200RS with its wind protection and heated grips until spring.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

 

Thanksgiving Day is supposed to be the warmest of this week, so I hope to get out for a few hours then.

[jas67]

Thanksgiving Day is supposed to be the warmest of this week, so I hope to get out for a few hours then.

Sadly, we are to be at the inlaws by 3pm that day, so, any riding I do must wrap up by 1:30ish.

[jas67]

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone!  I did manage to get out on the Morini today.  I am thankful for that!

[jas67]

Small bore Sunday.   Such a pleasure to ride!

[Canuck750]

Oh, that's right, I do recall reading that they had electronic ignition.   Cool!   Carbs will definitely be the first thing I take care of, along
with the cam belt.   I need to get a decent flywheel puller, as I only have a 2-arm one that keeps trying to fall over at a slight angle when
I try to use it.  I don't want to disk bending the nose of the crank.  I'll get a 3-arm one.

The correct puller threads into the rotor once you remove the securing nut. The puller uses the pressure of a center bolt to pop the rotor off. Don’t use a two or three arm puller, very easy to damage the rotor. I can check the size of the puller threads when I am at my shop tomorrow

https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/M490117.html



Paul Compton Youtube had plenty of Moto Motini how to videos - cam belt change

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvqPVx3ZlBw

All period road tests complained about the Morini foot peg position and all called for rear sets, none of the original 350 or 500 bikes had rear foot controls. The Tarrozzi units are a bit of a compromise

I have the Tarrozzi rear sets on my Morini 500. The Tarrozzi rear sets foul the kick starter, not a problem on the electric start 500 but a deal breaker on the kick only bike. I made a kickstart extender for my 500 based on the no longer available NLM unit, I think the picture of the piece shows up on Mdina Italy’s web site.



https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/M380115MOD.html

Easy enough to make if you have access to a milling machine. The Tarrozzi keeps the left hand shift and the conventional shift pattern.

Jim

Right hand view of the Tarozzi rear sets mounted to a 500



home made kick starter extension piece fitted in-between the knuckle and lever





I still have to lift up the left side foot peg before swinging the kick lever and it will still glance the tip of the brake pedal but it works, I could make a pivot to the brake lever tip or shorten the pedal but it works



I have been fiddling with the location of the foot peg and the rotating piece behind the foot peg to get the best shift action out off the rear sets, I have also replaced the piece on the transmission shift shaft with a piece with a longer arm to increase leverage, its hard to shift between 2 and 3,  its along rotation of the shift drum and sometimes I have to pull the foot peg up with my heel, I still need to adjust it more.

[jas67]

The correct puller threads into the rotor once you remove the securing nut. The puller uses the pressure of a center bolt to pop the rotor off. Don’t use a two or three arm puller, very easy to damage the rotor. I can check the size of the puller threads when I am at my shop tomorrow

I've already obtained the proper puller.   I don't know what I was thinking when I was trying the arm-type ones.   I've even used thread-in pullers in the past (Chinese clone of  small single-cylinder Honda).

https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/M490117.html



All period road tests complained about the Morini foot peg position and all called for rear sets, none of the original 350 or 500 bikes had rear foot controls. The Tarrozzi units are a bit of a compromise

I have the Tarrozzi rear sets on my Morini 500. The Tarrozzi rear sets foul the kick starter, not a problem on the electric start 500 but a deal breaker on the kick only bike. I made a kickstart extender for my 500 based on the no longer available NLM unit, I think the picture of the piece shows up on Mdina Italy’s web site.



https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/M380115MOD.html

Easy enough to make if you have access to a milling machine. The Tarrozzi keeps the left hand shift and the conventional shift pattern.

Jim

Right hand view of the Tarozzi rear sets mounted to a 500



home made kick starter extension piece fitted in-between the knuckle and lever





I still have to lift up the left side foot peg before swinging the kick lever and it will still glance the tip of the brake pedal but it works, I could make a pivot to the brake lever tip or shorten the pedal but it works



I have been fiddling with the location of the foot peg and the rotating piece behind the foot peg to get the best shift action out off the rear sets, I have also replaced the piece on the transmission shift shaft with a piece with a longer arm to increase leverage, its hard to shift between 2 and 3,  its along rotation of the shift drum and sometimes I have to pull the foot peg up with my heel, I still need to adjust it more.

Yeah, I do need to get rear sets, or have some made (I don't have the tools or skills).    The foot peg location is too forward, especially with the clip-ons.    It isn't as bad as my Mk1 Le Mans though.   That's another bike that screams for rear sets.