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EV (hot start) "Issues"

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Kiwi_Roy:
A couple of things to check.
The fuel filters have been known to clog with rust on an EV. Disconnect the fuel return hose where it connects at the front of the tank. Direct it into a bottle and turn on the key, you should get a full pipe flow coming back, if it's just a dribble the filter is blocked and the fuel pressure at injectors will be much higher than normal. The filter doesn't block off on first starting, I think if the bike is shut down for a while sufficient rust falls away to let it flow normally for a while.
Another sign of a blocked filter is a very noisy pump.


If you think it's the TPS why not tap into the signal strap your multimeter to the tank and monitor it.
It's easy if you have the old P8 ECU remove the back off the plug and connect a wire to pin 17, the other lead goes to chassis

LowRyter:
great info. Might as well change out the fuel filter. 

I'll give the TPS check a try.  Thanks.

pehayes:

--- Quote from: Kiwi_Roy on January 15, 2015, 07:19:08 PM ---A couple of things to check.
The fuel filters have been known to clog with rust on an EV.

--- End quote ---

The issue isn't so much with the huge filter under the tank tunnel, but rather with the dinky fittings and filter up inside the electric petcock.  Remember, on a fuel injected machine, the fuel is flowing constantly like the circulation in a fish aquarium.  Carb bikes only had to gravity drain the fuel that was consumed.  Any flecks of debris in the tank get migrated quickly to the petcock area.  The fuel pump starts straining and gets noisy.  Easy enough to drain and rinse the tank and clean the petcock components.

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

Kiwi_Roy:
Patrick,
          You also pointed out that the moat drain plugs causing the tank to rust in the first place.

It was certainly the case with my EV.

Rust mort took care of that.

Roy

Bill Havins:

John,

Pull the TPS and see if there is fuel in it.  If so, check this thread:  http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73658.0

If there is no fuel in the TPS, reinstall it, set it to 375 milliVolts at idle position, and then follow Roy's suggestion.  But here is an addition to that.  You can get a quick read of how the TPS is functioning without starting the bike.  As Roy said, connect your DVM to Pin 17 and ground/earth.  Then with the key on, but the bike not running, watch the voltage as you slowly turn the throttle to WOT and back to idle.  Do this several times.  If you see anything other than a "smooth" linear response to turning the throttle you may have TPS issues.  If the TPS checks fine, look for your solution elsewhere.  You'll save $325 or so by doing the above unless the TPS is shot.  If it is, I have an extra I can loan you to see if it will solve the problem.

Bill

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