Flasher Relay

[Swedemoto]

I installed a set of aftermarket turn signals on a '81 CX100. The original fairing and dash were removed already and tail end was cut. I put a set of turn signals on and I believe the bulbs are 11 amp and the originals were 21 amp? Anyway, I had problems getting them to work and tried removing one of the two flasher relays and it was fine. Ran out and got the bike inspected, everything was fine. A couple minutes later tried them again and nothing. I found a blown fuse. So, a couple questions. Why is there only one flasher on the SP and two on the CX? Pretty similar, if not identical, setups. Since there is a difference in amps in the bulbs, do I need to put in a resistor or something to make up the difference? As indicated, electronics is not my first language!

[nc43bsa]

The bulbs are probably 11 watts and 21 watts,  not amps.

[Kiwi_Roy]

My California II had two as well
As long as it was working I never questioned it.
You may well be correct thinking it's a load thing.

You may have an intermittent short but what size fuse blew?
Look at the fuse is there a large gap (a sign of short circuit) or just a tiny gap (mild overload)

[Old Jock]

Does it have a hazard warning switch (a switch to make all 4 flashers operate at the one time)?

Usually if it has this why it needs another relay to take the load of all 4 flashers operating at once

A quick glance at the Cali II diagrram shows a hazard switch and it looks like it shorts the indicator switch input and outputs together (I could not find a diagram for the CX)

Personally I'd junk the hazard and get an electronic flasher relay, that will save you having to install resistors, which are horrible anyway. There may even be flasher relays that can now take the addtional load of all 4 flashers, available. I don't know as I haven't had the need.

As for the fuse, it could be entirely unrelated, you'd need to go through the wiring, when it blew which side was working? Try the other to see if it too blows the fuse and help you zero in on the fault 

[Swedemoto]

The bulbs are probably 11 watts and 21 watts,  not amps.

True, LOL.

Roy- 16 amp fuse. Yeah, not sure. About 1/16"-1/8". What's that in mm? Probably a short. I just don't understand why it was good in the garage and then overload when riding.

Jock- I believe it may have had a 4-way at one time, I'll have to check the diagram. The harness was cut off for the dash when i got it.

[blackcat]

True, LOL.

Roy- 16 amp fuse. Yeah, not sure. About 1/16"-1/8". What's that in mm? Probably a short. I just don't understand why it was good in the garage and then overload when riding.

Jock- I believe it may have had a 4-way at one time, I'll have to check the diagram. The harness was cut off for the dash when i got it.

My CX had a 4-way flasher switch on the left side of the dash if I’m not mistaken.

[Old Jock]

That I think explains the double relay

It should work fine with just one as you did and all was good

I think you have an unrelated wiring fault that blew the fuse or something is dodgy with one of the relays.

As I said try an electronic relay they're cheap and eliminate any faffing with resistors to get a constant flash rate. With the electronic type the flash rate is governed by a seperate clock circuit independent of the load

BC thanks for the confimation I'm pretty certain that's what it's all about

My Daytona RS engined bike (from hell, but for different reasons) has an electronic flasher fitted by a PO as it's got a 4 way flasher (Japanese import) and in the other 2 bikes I run electronic relays for an LED/bulb mix

John

[Swedemoto]

Jock, I'll give the electronic relay a shot.

[motogoro]

there is a minor drawback to using an electronic flasher.  if a bulb fails the flasher unit continues to work.  pre-ride checks are suggested.

Steve M in SE WI