U/J Carrier bearing collapse

[n3303j]

Never installed the boot anything beyond dry. It seals fine with the clamps. But never made an effort to keep it oil free at installation or subsequent opening for inspection. Never used Loctite on pivot pin caps (Guzzi) or locking nuts (BMW, Ural). Always set lock nuts to factory torque specifications often with modified socket. Nothing ever moved. Anti-seize on the pin threads is always good insurance during subsequent disassembly.

Are you having fun yet?




My Guzzis are both tip top currently but the Ural is hanging from the ceiling getting a new clutch, transmission input shaft and three universal spiders. I thought of you while I was doing the small driveshaft between the transmission and the rear differential. (Yes, it is a differential on the '96 Ural 2 wheel drive rear gear set). I had it so much easier as the primary shaft is totally exposed. I can see everything as I install it. Nothing hidden or untouchable whatsoever.
Of course I had to remove the sidecar to get at half the stuff.

[tris]

Did you try the coupling onto the gearbox outlet shaft before you mounted it in the swing arm/fitted the rubber boot?

It's worth knowing that things will go together easily before trying to do it blind

You might be trying to assemble something that wont go together due to some defect

[izzug otom]

Yay, I got my swing arm hooked up without too much more effort. The second drive shaft made it so much easier to apply pressure in either direction, and popping it in gear, was the winning combination.

I was already hooked up to it with splines aligned,but was hung up due to the angle, but with it hooked up by the left shock, and then raising and lowering at the sw/a bearing end, I managed to jiggle it all the way on, then carefully got the pivot pins in and adjusted them evenly to slightly over 6mm of exposed threads each side for the locking caps to hold onto.

So now, all the difficult stuff is completed, phew  , so it's just a matter of fitting the rear drive with new o ring, wheel, brake calliper, and shock mounted and torqued up, silencers hung, change the final drive oil, and then go for a frickin' ride!! I hope I still remember how to do that

Just in the nick of time too, it's forecast a couple of rainy days from tmro, and then temps dropping from 20c to around 10-12c, boo!

Apart from the tightening up of the 4 final drive bolts after the wheel is fitted and the axle tightened up, is there anything else I should be bearing in mind that I might be missing?

[Tom H]

Congrats Your almost done!

Tom

[John A]

When you start tightening bolts, you’re supposed to tighten the axel nut before you tighten the four nuts holding on the bevel box. It’s almost done!

[izzug otom]

Here's a good laugh for you 

I spent most of the late afternoon early evening looking for the rear wheel spacer, you know the one that doesn't exist

I got the wheel fitted, but as I got positioned on the drive teeth, I stuck the wheel spindle through from the bevel side first, as I got to the other side, stopping short enough (so I hadn't yet pushed it far enough to realise it wouldn't go all the way in that side), to hang the brake calliper assembly, I realised there was a gap.

I thought to myself I can't remember there being a spacer, and all my parts removed, well, apart from just the one eeny, teeny, bitty drive shaft  , went into one box.

Well instead of thinking it through, and realising it was the wrong way around, I searched the back room, and then set about cutting all the vegetation down in the backyard, thinking I must be going mad, not remembering it had a spacer, and maybe kicked it away accidentally and not noticed

So I looked on the exploded diagram to see if I could get one ordered pronto. when reading the diagram, I couldn't figure it out, and then it suddenly dawned on me how fkn stupid I'd been.

I caught myself cracking out laughing before my thinking brain had any conscious thought that it was funny. I remember, my internal dialogue went along the lines of "Hey, hey, you didn't even tell me it was funny until I was laughing."   ... "I know, funny though huh?" .... "Yeah but ..."

Afterwards, I got to wondering whether laughing at myself when I do something really stupid, as my mum always did, is actually a self defense coping mechanism to prevent doing myself some serious harm bashing my head against a brick wall. . . . and really, if so, it's fair play to the little people inside me really, that are charged with operating my functions and steering me through life, it can't be an easy job 

Now I'll go and finish up with and angle poise in the dark 

[Stretch]

I spent most of the late afternoon early evening looking for the rear wheel spacer, you know the one that doesn't exist

I've been known to do stuff like that myself!     LOL!

It sounds as if you're ALMOST done.    What a saga!
If you ever have to do it again, you'll know what parts
to order ahead of time, to skip rebuilding the U-joint and just
buy another one, and all the little tricks to get it back together.
Probably be able to do it a 3rd time in an hour or two.   

Good on yer for keeping at it.

                                                       -Stretch

[Mike Tashjian]

Nice to hear your bike is about ready to ride.   Looks like you have learned a lot repairing your bike and saved some money too. 

[izzug otom]

So, I managed to get my bike all put together Tuesday, into the night, but only just got chance to take it for a spin yesterday evening. I only popped out locally, but everything feels lovely, smooth and quiet back there now. I've yet to try it at speed and see if there's a noticeable lack in vibration, but I suspect there will be.




One thing that did occur, is my linked brake pedal isn't returning properly. I lubricated all of the linkage points, but I think it must be in the plunger mechanism of the unit itself. There seems to be stiffness and a distinct notch at one point of it's travel.

Another thing I haven't experience in maintaining, the linked brake unit. Oh what joys lie ahead I wonder  It's got to be a lot easier than sorting the drive train out though 

I really want to express how grateful I am to all those who've shared their experience and advice, and those who've shown valuable moral support, thank you all very, very much. I really don't know how I'd have managed to get through this without you guys 

Never installed the boot anything beyond dry. It seals fine with the clamps.

My Guzzis are both tip top currently but the Ural is hanging from the ceiling getting a new clutch, transmission input shaft and three universal spiders. I thought of you while I was doing the small driveshaft between the transmission and the rear differential.

Re the rubber grease on the boot, I don't know if it's a difference in climate and usage perhaps, mine being exposed to the weather all year round in the damp, grey UK, but water/moisture had definitely got inside mine, despite the rubber boot appearing to be in a good state. There was some corrosive roughness on the metal where the boot is clamped to the motor, so unless water has got in through a crack in one of the welds on the swing arm, which I imagine is pretty unlikely, it must have got in where it seals. However, either way, some rubber grease can only help the situation in both moisture resistance and keeping the rubber in good shape, and certainly not a bad thing 

Nice quirky Ural, there's something very appealing in the rugged, no frills (apart from two wheel drive for the sidecar) simplicity  , and soon enough people will stop hating all things Russian, doh 

Are the pointy out rod bits on the rear brake pedal and between the front of the pot and the exhaust, designed to protect the cylinder and head in the advent of a spill?

Did you try the coupling onto the gearbox outlet shaft before you mounted it in the swing arm/fitted the rubber boot?

It's worth knowing that things will go together easily before trying to do it blind

You might be trying to assemble something that wont go together due to some defect

Thanks, it's funny you mention that, but yes I'd checked the new couplings, but when I tried to insert the old drive shaft into the new coupler of the new drive shaft to give me a better grip to turn the uj into alignment, it was really difficult and needed some force to connect the two. Still can't figure out why that should be, but yes I can certainly see your point.

Congrats Your almost done!

Tom

Nice one Tom, thanks.

When you start tightening bolts, you’re supposed to tighten the axel nut before you tighten the four nuts holding on the bevel box. It’s almost done!

Thanks John, that's precisely what I did 

I've been known to do stuff like that myself!     LOL!

It sounds as if you're ALMOST done.    What a saga!
If you ever have to do it again, you'll know what parts
to order ahead of time, to skip rebuilding the U-joint and just
buy another one, and all the little tricks to get it back together.
Probably be able to do it a 3rd time in an hour or two.   

Good on yer for keeping at it.

                                                       -Stretch

I'm glad I'm not the only one 

Yes, it'd definitely be easier to do a second time, but may it be some time if that's ever necessary again 

Nice to hear your bike is about ready to ride.   Looks like you have learned a lot repairing your bike and saved some money too. 

Thanks Mike, You're absolutely right, a steep learning curve, and despite my mistakes, saved a considerable, for me, amount of cash 

[n3303j]

Sidecar (not in picture) protects rig from a spill. The pointy out rod bit couples the foot brake pedal to the Sidecar brake mechanism.

Ural no longer made in Russia (everywhere but, almost).