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Fit a new pair of proper size crush washers on the breather line fitting, I have had oil drip out of here after a rebuild, had to drop the transmission and remove the clutch to fix a 10 cent washer.JB weld up the back of the cam bearing plug while your in there.
Yeah getting a new pair and gasket for the other pipe in there. Also some liquid gasket for around where they enter/exit and silicone to dab along the hose. That site was very helpful.I JB Welded the plug too... but yours looks waaaayyyy better. pic hosting
Fit a new pair of proper size crush washers on the breather line fitting, I have had oil drip out of here after a rebuild, had to drop the transmission and remove the clutch to fix a 10 cent washerJB weld up the back of the cam bearing plug while your in there.
I think you just solved my problem Jim. Oil drip after rebuild and I know the rear main seal and transmission input seal are ok since I tore it apart to check. Ugh. Going in again.
Sooo... while waiting on the machine shop should Open the transmission? If so what do I look for? Or, since it was shifting and working well, just leave it?Also... wheel and other bearings... should I pull and check?Thank you!
If the transmission has never had the original break-prone shift return spring replaced, then I'd definitely open it up to replace that. Input shaft and output shaft seals are likely old, so those and all o-rings replaced as well. Replace the clutch pushrod "seal" with six o-rings (I supply them for free to anyone in the US). Five-speeds can have a number of issues: intermediate shaft separation being the most common, but also bearing races coming out of the case or off the end of shafts. All of them can benefit from reshimming the shift drum. Rear wheel bearing are tapered roller type - I'd remove the seals, clean and repack the bearings and install new seals. There are shims between one bearing and the central spacer, so don't misplace those. Front wheel bearings are a bit harder to remove, easy enough to grease them in place (with a grease gun and needle attachment). Swingarm pivot bearings should be cleaned and repacked.
I didn't mean to say you didn't.. but.. there is a learned "feel" in precision measuring. It is *easy* to be off by a half thousandth.. or more.. without considerable practice.
I was in a similar position when I did my engine the first time. The engine was stuck with heads removed (for years) & pistons frozen in bores. there didnít seem to be any significant chrome loss below the rings. It was all at and above the rings, which made sense to me. on typical iron cylinder bores with stuck pistons, thatís also where most damage is found. There was no grand chorus of advice regarding chrome issues back then, either- my bike wasnít even 20 yrs old at the time. So I did the obvious work and never dove into the rest of the engine. 2-3 yrs later, it started growling and required a full rebuild when I really truly couldnít afford it. If I had to guess, my oil pump probably looked like yours when I first did the cylinders. It bore the brunt of the initial damage from initial chrome loss but ran and operated ok following the first engine rework. As miles accrued, it continued to deteriorate until it became a liability. The combination of dismissing oil pressure plus any remaining debris then wiped out the bearings, crank journals, tappet faces, etc.Had I known, I would have gladly gone the extra distance in the beginning. Replacing only the oil pump at that point would have saved a lot of money, grief and lost time on my bike when I was still young and riding more.
. cylinders religned at Millennium, pistons checked and measured. New rings, .
Curious- where did you get rings? My original cylinders and pistons are still here on the shelf. Might check them and get rings.Iím glad that you were open minded about the input here. We all mean well, even if it may have seemed like a big pile-on of know-it-alls. Personally, Iím very happy that my mistakes helped someone avoid the same problems and angst that I went through. Youíll have a fantastic bike when youíre done. All that remains is to properly adjust and tune the big front brake once itís on the road. Poor adjustment and fatigued brake cables are main issues of poor performance. Itís amazing how a single stretched or broken strand in the wound cable will wipe out much of the brakeís efficiency. The cable balance bar will rack and you wonít even be able to fully operate the good cable to have half a brake. Watch the balance bar where the two cables end at the hand lever. It should always remain in the same orientation when you pull the lever so both cables operate evenly. If it tips to favor one cable, that favored cable indicates a problem needing address. It will never be a 1-2 finger brake like a disc brake. But if you squeeze that lever like youíve got a pair, it works fantastic. To me, itís much of the character of the bike.
Curious- where did you get rings? My original cylinders and pistons are still here on the shelf. Might check them and get rings.
Anyone know where I can get the tool to install the rear main seal? Messed one up using just a rubber mallet. MGCycle Carrieís them for $35 but no stock. Foreign sites want a fortune. Iíd gladly pay someone who has one to borrow it. Otherwise Iíll find a socket and just use that and the mallet. Thank you!!
Yup thatís it!!If youíd like to keep it on hand Iíd gladly pay to borrow it as well as shipping not ways. If you donít want it around anymore Iíll buy it. Up to you. Thank you!!!
Ok got the tool on the way.Another question... where can I get an oiling dowel for the new rear main? Or do I pull the old one and how?Thanks again, again... and again!
Remove and reuse the dowels from the old bearings. They should push out easily with a long punch or screwdriver.
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