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2RS sealed bearings would be a good choice for this application. The rubber seals keep the water and other road debris out of the bearings with the penalty of slightly more drag than a metal seal or open bearing
Not quite sure what you mean about the seals but why not use 2RS bearings as in 60042RS, a 63032RS and 62032RS so double sided rubber seals incorporated.
Yeah, all three bearings had rubber seals, so I planned on going the 2RS route. One of the bearings was SKF, one was SNR, another Timken, and the 4th was too scratched, but assumed it was the same as the SKF (both were the same size and from the front wheel).The wheels use 2RS bearings, but 3 of the sides (both front sides and one rear) also use wheel bearing seals outside of the bearing themselves. When replacing them, is there more to searching than simply measuring the inner and outer diameters?
Ok, any images of these additional seals? Not something I'm familiar with. They aren't old bearing seals that have dislodged and been left there are they? Basically you just want the type of bearing (IE deep groove ball for example) the OD, ID and width. Then it's the seal type/s if any and the internal clearance if it's a bit of a special case.
From what I’ve been reading, and from Delboy’s and Ari’s how-to videos, these wheel seals (oil seal? hub seal? Known by another, more popular term, perhaps?) are pretty common on motos and other automotives.
Yep, real common to all motorcycle mfgrs. 26 X 42 X8 mm lip seal. (the ones pictured) available online, at your local bearing dealer or your local Honda,Yamaha or Kawasaki dealer. Paul B
For wheel bearings? All the wheel bearings I've experienced going back to the early 70's rely on the integral 2RS seal or the equivalent. I've not seen a separate shaft seal on a wheel bearing. Willing to be corrected and educated.Ciao
Most are exclusionary seals that press in outside the bearing. The spacer between the fork and bearing seals to the inside of the lip seal to keep out the water and dirt. Most seals installed in the bearings themselves are only to keep the grease in. Paul B
Many years ago, I saw a unique (as least to me) technique where the wheel bearing was cooled in a cup of dry ice. The dry ice made the bearing so cold, (and no condensation to worry about) the installer was able to seat the bearing into place with his (gloved) fingers. I've always wanted to try it, but dry ice isn't readily available where I live.
On the T3 these bearings are 2RS sealed. Diagram shows seals over the bearings. They are part GU90402642 and they only seem to appear on V series wheels.
Borrow the free blind bearing puller from NAPA.
Buy quality American made. Don't buy cheap China bearings.And do not side load as others said.
Here’s a fun roadblock: pretty sure the new bearing is seated, and I’m ready to pull out the old bearing that I used as a punch… but I’m having a bit of a hard time getting that old bearing out. I tried heating the hub and cooling the bearing with canned air. The screwdriver just ain’t digging in deep enough between the two bearings, and I’m afraid to really push in for fear of goofing up the new bearing’s inner race.it’s pretty flush, so I don’t think I have it jammed; it’s just super tight.Thoughts?
This is what happened when I put Chinese bearings (All Balls) in my GrisoThe bearing seized and rotated on the shaft, I had a heck of a job extracting the axle.
The learning point here is to grind the outer ring of the old bearing you're using to push the new one in so it clears the recess
Bearings MUST be snug against inner spacer BEFORE they bottom out on outer shoulder. Otherwise when you tighten the axle you will preload the bearings in a thrust direction. They are not designed for thrust loads and will rapidly self destruct.In an ideal situation (Ural Wheel) the inner spacer and outer shoulder are identical width. The axle clamps the inner races to the inner spacer and the threaded ring clamps the bearings in the hub. Everything stays in alignment.Moto Guzzi clamps the inner races on the axle and floats the outer races in the hub so they self align.
I figured, however I thought I had given more than enough taps. Went back and used a small punch along the outer race of each, and now have a snug seating between bearings and spacer. Thanks for the push!