1200 sport no start...turn key nothing but headlight

[Rosso Woody]

Tried to start my 1200 sport last night and nothing. The security light is blinking on the dash but nothing else when you turn the key on except the small headlight. Checked main fuses and block behind the battery ...all good. Also checked the battery and all good. There was some fluid in battery tray but battery is fine must got some water in there.

Any help appreciated

[biking sailor]

Start with simple things, kill switch, neutral, side stand in gear.  Make sure dash is doing needle sweep, and immobilizer recognizing key and confirm fuel pump is running for a few seconds when turning key on.  Next I would connect to battery charger and try again (sometimes hard to really diagnose a bad/weak battery).  Then get into all the "Startus Interuptus" stuff.  I would find a hill or someone to push it to see if it will bump start and run OK just to start ruling things out.

Fluid in the battery tray, was battery on a charger and possibly boiled out some water?

[Graham UK]

When I had that problem with the Breva it turned out to be the battery.  It really does need to be in tip top condition.  If you're sure it isn't that, I've heard of problems with a lead for the started motor - some have run an extra lead; but, as I'm not a techy, I'd better let those who know better than me provide the details!

[Rosso Woody]

Put in a brand new spare battery I had here for the 1100 sport and it acts the same. A buddy told me about checking the ground also. That is the next step!

[tpeever]

Have you checked for battery terminal corrosion and connections? Seems to be an issue on these bikes.

https://www.motointernational.com/blog/news-and-events/post/moto-guzzi-battery-cable-cleaning

My Sport wouldn't start for me after stopping for gas on a long trip in 100F heat. Terminals were all corroded and it seemed to happen pretty fast. Once cleaned up away it went!

[oldbike54]

 Could this be startus interruptes ?

  Dusty

[Rosso Woody]

What is thus start interrupt thing. ...I downloaded a shop manual and start looking in there

[biking sailor]

Startus Interuptus is a humorous term given to the issue of the starter solenoid relay power going all the way through the switch and back to relay under the seat with too small of wire causing a voltage drop that not have enough juice to trigger the solenoid if the battery is a bit weak. 

The fix is a hot fused lead from + battery terminal to the yellow wire of the relay, thus supplying more juice to the starter solenoid.  Or something like that.  MPH in Houston sells a pre-made kit but it's simple enough to do it with some wire, an inline fuse, solder, and some heat shrink.

If the search function here is working, Kev M (I think it was him) gave a good step by step how to.

[egschade]

Currently going through this with my 07 Breva 1100. Starter circuit is weak and they 'yellow wire bypass' is certainly a fix. But as others have mentioned you ALSO need a top-notch battery. I did the relay fix only to find that my battery, though newer, was sub-par (that's what I get for buying a cheapie). If the voltage drops much below 12.4v you're going to have problems.

One quick test is to carefully attach jumper cables or a 6 amp charger to your battery. If the bike immediately fires up it's likely the battery or needing the yellow wire bypass. If it doesn't than you may have a problem other than a relay or weak battery issue.

I have a top line YUASA on order and expect that will fix my problem.

[Vasco DG]

Once again, it's very important to put AGM batteries into service properly. Unfortunately it often isn't done well or correctly and then people blame the bike or the battery.

Pete

[Rosso Woody]

Update nfrom the weekend:

Cleaned the battery terminals and made sure battery good - reading 13 volts
Cleaned and checked ground to starter -all good
Checked the fuses - all good
Checked bankangle sensor -62 ohm reading all good

When I disconnect the 30 amp main fuses the dash will do a needle sweep and give a code ASPB 0016

I still have the security light blinking on the dash, the sweep after disconnect the fuse and the code received on the dash - this makes me think the dash is ok, but something else is wrong. I believe from searching the 0016 is a no start code?

Any additional help would be appreciated....

[boatdetective]

The immobilizer could have fried. It went on my 1200. Have you tried to go into the diagnostics on the dash to check for error codes?

[Rosso Woody]

I do not have dash functions....can not see anything on the dash.

The only time I get anything on the dash is when I remove the main fuse and reinstall. The pump will kick on, needle sweep and then the ASPB 0016 code.

Can not get anything else on the dash - turn the key on and nothing

[Vasco DG]

Woody, that code is simply the boot code on the dashboard. You'll get it every time you reconnect the battery or re-install the main fuse. It's nothing, ignore it.

If you aren't getting the dash to do its sweep or it then blanks out when you hit the starter it is either battery or earth related and at this time of year I'm betting battery. The fact the dash indicates 13V is irrelevant. With only the load of the dash and the imobiliser and park lights the current draw is minimal. As soon as you hit the starter button the current draw increases and the voltage will drop. As soon as the solenoid contacts close the voltage will plummet. The dash or ECU has a fail safe protection that will shut everything down if the voltage drops below something like 10.5V and the. The dash will blank out again for a few seconds before the system re-activates and you get the code, the sweep etc. and you're back where you started.

How old is your battery. Also is it a 20 AH or a 16 AH? The big blocks really need a 20AH, especially in cooler weather. If your bike has had a 16AH aftermarket battery fitted and its either a bit tired or wasn't put into service correctly it will almost certainly be the source of your problem.

Have you tried disconnecting the bike's battery and jumping it off a car?

Pete

[Rosso Woody]

Pete,

My battery is a 20 AGM but three years old but I have the same new one I bought a month ago for the 1100 sport I am fixing up.

I have nothing on the dash when I turn the key on! Can not try to start the bike if I wanted. I read the voltage from my meter to get the voltage.

I can try the other new battery again but I think I have something else going on....since the voltage should at least give me the dash. Do you think I have a relay somewhere not working proper?

[Vasco DG]

I would expect that if a relay had gone udders skywards you'd get nothing from the dash at all, not even the boot code.

Have you made sure the earth strap is clean and tight down by the starter motor cover? Give the battery terminals and the cable ends a really god going over with a file and wet'n'dry.

As I said, reading the battery voltage without load will tell you squat. It needs a high demand to see if the voltage plunges under load. Look, it may be something else but it reeks of voltage dropping below the critical point of system cut off to me and that is almost always poor earthing, dirty battery terminals or a buggered battery. Unfortunately I'm a long way away so there's not much else I can suggest. Sorry.

Pete

[Kiwi_Roy]

You say you still have the security light flashing, What does that mean?
Should it be flashing?
Do you have an immobilizer key or fob for that bike?

Sorry, I'm only up to 2001 Guzzi wise.

[Vasco DG]

Nah, the imobiliser light is just a red LED on the dash. It has a tiny parasitic drain. The battery has to be flat as a tack for it to stop flashing, (Unless you turn it off, which you can on some models.)

No key fob. There is a chip in the key which is activated, (For want of a better word.) by a coil around the ignition switch which creates sufficient EMF to make the chip transmit when it enters the field. That is detected by an antena also surroundung the switch and the signal sent to the dash. If the dash recognises it it will allow the bike to start.

Pete

[guzzisteve]

The ECU also has a ground wire. I would unplug ECU  from harness and plug back in. Dash also.

I would not take it for granted that the connections are good, specially if shit don't work!

[Rich M]

Check the neutral switch connection wire..at the switch itself...

Had a similar problem...

[Rosso Woody]

Those were my next two things to do....unplug the dash, clean the connection and replug.

Also the same for the ECU plugs - just need to remove the tank out of the way? I think the plugs are right under the tank on the front stem?

Tried jumping from the boost of the car no luck either....

[guzzi ride]

Any luck Woody?

[Scott of the Sahara]

If you are trying everything, try this. Hold the bike up and put the kickstand up. Put it in Neutral and pull in the clutch. One of those circuits may be causing the problem. Kickstand, Clutch, Neutral. Maybe even shake the bike a bit for the tip over switch (if your bike has that, mine does ... don't ask how I know).

[Rosso Woody]

Alrealdy tried that stuff and checked the bank angle sensor and reading 62 ohm on my meter so it should be no issue.

Going to try and check the ECU connectors and dash connector and see if I can clean them reconnect...after that I am a loss. Talked to the dealer Saturday while I was drooling over his new Griso. I guess afer this that is my last option...

The Rosso Griso is way better looking in person than the pictures do it justice! ould love to have that in my garage....

[John in PA]

Just went through this whole diagnostic schema on a friends Bassa.  Only light working was the headlight.  No dash lights, no fuel pump initialization, no starter solenoid.  Battery fine, grounds fine, all relays changed out, all fuses OK.  Process of elimination was ignition switch.  I happened to have a spare and popped it in.  Instant Joy!.  Lesson: The ignition switch makes multiple connections/circuits and it's possible to lose only partial function.

Even though the switch element is attached to the key lock with 2 screws and is a super easy replacement, Guzzi ONLY supplies the part with a new lock included, which drives the price up to over $130. AND, they're nearly UNOBTANIUM.  (Like there was ONE I found at TLM in the Netherlands!)  Of course, there's a proprietary plug on the end of the pigtail, so that possibly no other mfgr's part will substitute.

  this would be a good part for MG Cycle or Agostini's to get a run made. Ought to be a $50 part instead of including a throw-away ignition lock.  And if you choose to replace the lock with the switch (which is totally unnecessary unless you've lost your keys) , it has those break-away security fasteners that can only be drilled out to change the lock.  I appreciate the security, but not the PITA it would be to change out.

[stevepos]

I also have the exact same problem and symptoms with my 2008 Sport 1200 as Woody. The original dash was replaced under warranty in 2012 and had worked fine until 2 weeks ago. I turn the key to the on position the headlight comes on, the horn works, but no start up dance from the dash (it stays dark and dead). Leo's South in Lakeville, MN, my local Guzzi dealer where I bought the bike as a new noncurrent in 2011, offered to look at it in 6 weeks since they are so busy and they don't care. Have you figured this out yet Woody? If I can't get this fixed properly I will dump this bike that is so much fun to ride when it actually works and never consider owning another "modern" Guzzi again.

[Bisbonian]

If you think it's the dash, I have a spare which I would ship as a test loaner.

I have no interest in this permanently leaving my care.

The dash is good except for a turn signal which acts up, though it is metric.

[Rosso Woody]

Could be interested in the spare dash check...

What about using the cord and plugging into guzzidiag? My friend has a cable I can borrow. Would this give me any codes? Going to work on tomorrow just been super busy at work

[stevepos]

I have the Vehicle Diagnostic Scan Tool Standard by TechnoResearch that I purchased from Todd at GuzziTech. I have used it in the past for setting TPS and reading codes. With the dash not initializing it cannot connect to the ECU to read any codes. The TechnoResearch support technician using a remote access program took control of my laptop and tried it himself with no luck. His conclusion was to first fix the dash issue and then call back if I need help with the VDSTS to read any codes. I told him that once the dash issue is resolved I won't need his help.

[Rosso Woody]

Just took the dash off and hecked all connections there - cleaned and reconnected and everything looked good.

Still the same - only thing left to check is the ECU connections under the front of the tank.

Is there anyway to test the dash for function? Anyone have a way to do this at the dealer or do you just plug another one in hope for the best?

I'm guessing the immobilizer is good since that is the only function blinking on the dash....