Norge question

[dl.allen]

2012 norge
I have the flickering neutral light so wanted to go in and tighten connection
What is the minimum stuff to remove to get to it?
Thanks

[pete roper]

All the right hand side plastics I'd thing and it will still be a bastard to get to.

[Huzo]

2012 norge
I have the flickering neutral light so wanted to go in and tighten connection
What is the minimum stuff to remove to get to it?
Thanks

Mine's an '07 mate, and I had the same issue @ 50,000  air box off and it's right there if memory serves... down at the ass end around the gearbox from memory.  Really, about 30 minutes in and about 50 or so back out if you don't bust something. I crimped mine tight and zip tied the lead to the switch, (I think !) Anyway, it's been perfect since...

[pete roper]

There ya go. I haven't had to get to one on a Norge, on most of them it's a prick of a job, or I've just been approaching it the wrong way! Not unknown....

Pete

[Huzo]

There ya go. I haven't had to get to one on a Norge, on most of them it's a prick of a job, or I've just been approaching it the wrong way! Not unknown....

Pete

Pretty bloody rare though I'd wager !

[Huzo]

Also don't try to fit the air box with the TB clamps attached, they're easy to fit last and the snorkels will slide on as easy as you know what, with a smear of rubber grease, (sound familiar?), without the stupid clamps in the way, it's piss easy. Keep a goodly forward pressure on the 'box when nipping up the clamps and check that the snorkels have gone properly over the TB's and they are still fitted correctly onto the side of the air box. Finally, if you GENTLY ease the wiring loom out to the right a bit the air box will go in easier, but it's still a tight fit, but not impossible, (just).

[frans belgium]

Don't know about the Norge, but it's a pita on the B11.  Sits at the rear end of the bike, behind the gearbox. We had to take off the gastank and partly lift the air filter to get to it. Maybe we overdid ;-)

[Huzo]

Don't know about the Norge, but it's a pita on the B11.  Sits at the rear end of the bike, behind the gearbox. We had to take off the gastank and partly lift the air filter to get to it. Maybe we overdid ;-)

That sounds right.

[Scott of the Sahara]

For all of that work, I wouldn't care if my neutral light worked at all.

[dl.allen]

For all of that work, I wouldn't care if my neutral light worked at all.

Except on the side stand the flickering neutral kills the engine

Thanks for all replies
I may go after it today

[Bill Hagan]

Also don't try to fit the air box with the TB clamps attached, they're easy to fit last and the snorkels will slide on as easy as you know what, with a smear of rubber grease, (sound familiar?), without the stupid clamps in the way, it's piss easy. Keep a goodly forward pressure on the 'box when nipping up the clamps and check that the snorkels have gone properly over the TB's and they are still fitted correctly onto the side of the air box. Finally, if you GENTLY ease the wiring loom out to the right a bit the air box will go in easier, but it's still a tight fit, but not impossible, (just).

I have removed and replaced mine more times than I care to recall, and, despite such practice with it and generally following of the method you describe, I would not ever think to describe it as "piss easy."   

If I knew who designed it that way  , I'd shoot him without even offering him a last smoke.   

I'd use the same wall for the fellow who did the fuel "quick release."   

Bill

[dl.allen]

So to remove tank is jut the rear bolt the 2 electrical connections and the fuel line?

[dl.allen]

Well I got the tank off and airbox out
Might need therapy after that
Neutral wire was wiggly loose so gave it a little crimp and put it back on and zip tied it.

I think will drop in an air filter why I'm there.  Anything else I should do before closing the patients chest?



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[Huzo]

Except on the side stand the flickering neutral kills the engine

Thanks for all replies
I may go after it today

Even if it didn't kill the engine, not fixing it is BS. You'll enjoy overcoming the problem.

[Huzo]

So to remove tank is jut the rear bolt the 2 electrical connections and the fuel line?

Yep, near enough.

[Huzo]

Well I got the tank off and airbox out
Might need therapy after that
Neutral wire was wiggly loose so gave it a little crimp and put it back on and zip tied it.

I think will drop in an air filter why I'm there.  Anything else I should do before closing the patients chest?



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Breaking a bottle of champers over it may please the " Gods" BTW, it never gets "easier", just less hard but I don't have any trouble since I started using rubber grease on the snorkels, and putting the clamps on last, as mentioned. Now as I said, mine's an '07, so it may be easier than a later one... 'Can't say.

[rodekyll]

I have removed and replaced mine more times than I care to recall, and, despite such practice with it and generally following of the method you describe, I would not ever think to describe it as "piss easy."   

If I knew who designed it that way  , I'd shoot him without even offering him a last smoke.   

I'd use the same wall for the fellow who did the fuel "quick release."   

Bill

You forgot the sadist that drilled the twin plug's inner spark plug hole.  340* to work with and he chose to drill it THERE?

[dl.allen]

Thanks huzo I will try the grease
On work travel all next week so will be a while till good get back to it

Time heals all mental wounds.

I did get lucky and the fuel connector separated fairly easily!

[Huzo]

Thanks huzo I will try the grease
On work travel all next week so will be a while till good get back to it

Time heals all mental wounds.

I did get lucky and the fuel connector separated fairly easily!

Yeah those connectors are not too bad if you push, pull, twist clockwise and anticlockwise, lift up and down and heat and cool them all at the same time ! They literally "fall" off.... In pieces !

[tris]

Darn It.

I was all the way in there sorting the oil pressure switch out last week. If I'd known the neural light could play up I'd have done a premtive strike and fixed it before it thought about going wrong

The rubber greease sounds like a plan though

[guzzisteve]

I use silicone spray on the rubbers to go on TB's. You could also clean the inside of TB's w/carb cleaner and shoot some through the air bypass screw port & clean off screws.

[Bill Hagan]

You forgot the sadist that drilled the twin plug's inner spark plug hole.  340* to work with and he chose to drill it THERE?

Yup.  Bring him to The Wall.   

Well I got the tank off and airbox out
Might need therapy after that
Neutral wire was wiggly loose so gave it a little crimp and put it back on and zip tied it.

I think will drop in an air filter why I'm there.  Anything else I should do before closing the patients chest?

<snip>

You might look around for fasteners that have lost their way and other stowaways.

In "The Valley," I usually find one or more "where-did-that-go" items I had over the last year or so looked fruitlessly on the shop floor for for more minutes than I would care to admit.   

Oh, and mebbe check oil line integrity and fittings tightness?

Watch some old Navy movies to learn some new and helpful cursing techniques for the reinstallation of the airbox.  No soldiers, airmen, or marines can equal the imagination of sailors in such circumstances.   

Pray, too, that your tank, freed from its retaining bolt, has not swollen to point it cannot be replaced.  If so, watch more youtube videos of colorful language. 

When ordeal is over, post -- or ask your executrix to do it in your stead  -- your adventure's outcome.

Bill

[AH Fan]

I have removed and replaced mine more times than I care to recall, and, despite such practice with it and generally following of the method you describe, I would not ever think to describe it as "piss easy."   

If I knew who designed it that way  , I'd shoot him without even offering him a last smoke.   

I'd use the same wall for the fellow who did the fuel "quick release."   

Bill

Your a funny man Bill........   

[rogershuff]

Following this useful thread. I'm about to investigate my 2007 Norge neutral switch (OK when cold, not when hot). What nobody's mentioned is that if the neutral switch doesn't work, you need to pull the clutch in to start the engine. If your clutch cutout switch is no good, engine won't start. Guess how I know this ... Anyway I just removed the RH footrest and brake mounting plate thinking that would allow access to the switch but it doesn't. My tank is off at the moment so it's the airbox next. Thanks to those who have gone before.

[LowRyter]

You might just want to re-seat the connector.  I've had to do it on my Sport a couple of times.  This can disable the bike.