Well I've made some progress
Did as Mike suggested and the bike started and idled reasonably. The sort of reasonable that makes you think "I'll dial that in once it gets hot"
However, as it warmed up the idle slowed down so much so that the only way to keep it running was to open the throttle or wind in the idle stop screw.
But that got me thinking
Its been the same story every time, idles ok cold when I've rebuilt the carb and put everything back to base setting. Slows down when hot which I've been managing by screwing the idle stop in which means it reves its nuts off next time I start it from cold.
This tends to suggest that the carb is OK, but I popped the carb off again and tore it apart (I'm getting good at that
) to double check for blockages in the internal passages.
Spraying carb cleaner down every hole proved they're all clear
So I've been thinking - what else can change the idle speed when hot but not cold and come up with
1) Ignition circuit
2) Valve clearances
3) Exhaust blocking as it warms up
Valves I've set more than once and I'm sure they're OK and exhaust seems like a long reach, which leaves me with ignition
I plan to do the following in order of ease to do
1) Its a new plug but I'll get another and see what that does
2) Check the ignition timing. It allegedly had a re bore before I got it so its possible the cam timing is a tooth out or something. Easy to do as I can have a look at the timing marks
3) Check resistances across the coil/HT lead
4) Ignition is triggered via the stator coils somehow. Not sure how that works so I'll need to do a bit of reading
5) Spray and clean every contact between everything in the circuit
Any comments?
Cheers Tris