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Just checked the T3 manual (same triple nut system) and you have the washer in the correct place. All looks great!Edit: Also confirmed using the LM1 manual. Which brings me to this question... what does that knob on top of the upper lock nut do? Manual says "Shock absorber Rod" - don't quite understand how that works,
The satin finish on the frame looks great. Better than the gloss treatment some do.What us the actual colour ?
The finish is matte black powder with a clear matt powder over top. Its as close as I could get in a powder coat to match the near flat black of the original.[/quoteThank you.
It does feel good when things start going back on, doesn't it? - M
Looking good! Three things: the "captive nuts": 1) interesting application, but I've never felt the need for anything other than the original hex nuts. 2) I think you'll find that the nylock nuts on the right side, holding the footrests/lower frame rails to the main frame, will interfere with the swingarm. There's not much clearance there, that's why Guzzi originally used a half-height nut. Don't want to gouge the freshly powder coated swingarm... 3) How far recessed into the transmission rear cover is the throw-out bearing outer body? Looks like a few mm? In my experience, if it's recessed that far, the clutch may not release completely/drag. Have you checked to see if the clutch works properly? Easy to do by hooking up the cable and lever.
I now realize I need to swap the fork lowers as I have a stock set of new brake hoses and a new fender with the hose guide holes drilled for calipers facing forward, some things are just meant to be as Mandelo planned
Good, because that was bothering me, but I wasn’t going to say anything
HIWRT the swingarm and the UJ, I find it helps to fit the rear axle into the one arm of the s-w and to pinch it with the pinch bolt. You can then rest the axle on your fore arm (sitting on your arse behind the bike) and use that hand to help fit the s-a into position.Also I have shaped a long flat plate to just fit into the splined connector at the rear end of the drive shaft. This can then be used to rotate the U-J and coerce the U-J splines to engage with the gearbox output shaft.And regarding the captive nuts: I actually tack-weld captive nuts in place before sending the frame for paintwork.cheersThomasGreat tip! Thanks I will give that a try.CheersJim
May I ask, what is the distance "eye to eye" of the shocks you fitted ?
The shocks are 12 5/8" center to centerCheersJim