A tip for making refitting the back wheel on a V7 ttb easier.

[ozziguzzi]

I've had the V7 for 8 years and the task i hate most is trying to get the bevel box fins and the rubber cush segments together. With a recent tyre change I left the bevel box in situ and just pulled the hub off. When it came time to get the hub back on I had the usual frustrating time trying to get the fins back into the cush drive rubbers and it took half hour. As i was lining up the caliper. the wheel moved left and bingo, the hub and bevel box parted company. Rather than repeat than go through it all again, I put the wheel on a piece of cardboard to protect the rotor and dropped the bevel box down on to it. It's very easy to align the cush rubbers. I cut a 65mm piece of 25mm plastic pipe (ID about 20mm) and slipped this on to the axle so that it was at the stepped end. I inserted the axle from the bevel box side and put the nut on the LHS. This spacer served to hold the hub and bevel box together but it also gave you a handle to push the bevel box into position. Once you bolt it up and get the caliper ready to insert into the axle, you can then undo the axle bolt and pull the axle out. If you line the speedometer sensor up with one of the rotor bolts, then there's no way the wheel can move left. Push the axle bolt through from the LHS. Easy peasy.
So from now on -bevel box off.

[Huzo]

I've had the V7 for 8 years and the task i hate most is trying to get the bevel box fins and the rubber cush segments together. With a recent tyre change I left the bevel box in situ and just pulled the hub off. When it came time to get the hub back on I had the usual frustrating time trying to get the fins back into the cush drive rubbers and it took half hour. As i was lining up the caliper. the wheel moved left and bingo, the hub and bevel box parted company. Rather than repeat than go through it all again, I put the wheel on a piece of cardboard to protect the rotor and dropped the bevel box down on to it. It's very easy to align the cush rubbers. I cut a 65mm piece of 25mm plastic pipe (ID about 20mm) and slipped this on to the axle so that it was at the stepped end. I inserted the axle from the bevel box side and put the nut on the LHS. This spacer served to hold the hub and bevel box together but it also gave you a handle to push the bevel box into position. Once you bolt it up and get the caliper ready to insert into the axle, you can then undo the axle bolt and pull the axle out. If you line the speedometer sensor up with one of the rotor bolts, then there's no way the wheel can move left. Push the axle bolt through from the LHS. Easy peasy.
So from now on -bevel box off.

Typical Aussie ingenuity.
Lismore NSW or Vic ?

[Dirk_S]

Typical Aussie ingenuity.

…Is to be late to the game? Lol.

No insult intended to the OP, but I know at least the bevel box removal step has been around for more than a few years now, with a few threads on here sharing the concept. I don’t recall some of the minutia mentioned, though, and for that, I high-five—always a solid to learn multiple methods.

[twowheeladdict]

I put the wheel on a speed jack and lift it until it lines up and slide it in.  No need to remove anything. 

[Vagrant]

I clean the hub and rubbers then spray them with Dupont spray glue. Wait one minute, then stick the rubbers in the hub. Wait five minutes, spray the fins with Pam then it pops right together with no issues.

[mhershon]

I have just read on a Facebook Guzzi owners page, that the V7 850 cush rubbers do not try to fall out. Does anyone know that to be true? Or false? And if it's true, will the new ones fit our old wheels?

[mhershon]

Yes, it's true! On the UK Guzzi Owners Facebook page, there's a photo of the V7 850 rear wheel, removed from the final drive. The cush rubbers are completely different as apparently are the flanges that mate with the rubbers. The rubbers do NOT try to fall out of the hub. The flanges appear to be thicker...or the spaces in the cush rubbers appear to be. I believe after all these years, Guzzi has changed those smallblock rear wheels and final drive flanges to make rear wheel installation easier!

[Vagrant]

Yes, same as V85. Fixed in place.

[Bulldog9]

I use a schmear of shoe glue to hold the rubber in place and black silicone grease on the tabs on the bevel box.

To hold in place while sliding the axle back through, I secure the wheel to the bevel with small bungies.

First time I changed the rear tire, I was panicked when all those little rubber things fell out. I also slide the axle in from the wrong side. That's how it was on my xs11, slide axle in, hold wheel in place, line up the caliper bracket and then all the way. Been doing that since 1984..... Before I glued the rubber pieces and held the wheel with a bungy, it was a miserable affair. Now is easy peasy.

[ozziguzzi]

thanks for the inputs.

Huzo.   Lismore NSW.