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Go over to Greg Bender's site. There's an excellent "how to" write up to follow.
There should be oil in the boot. There is no seal between the shaft and the worm gear on that model. Only came in about the LM IV. It may be the seal and no reason not to change it but don't fret if you find oil in there again as long as it isn't too much. Also there is no seal between the rear drive and the swingarm and oil can work its way up from there too. One good reason to use moly so you can identify the source.The photo essays now on Greg's site are good but they did miss a few helpful hints. Its been a long time since I've read them so they may be updated. Rod
I've been having plumbing challenges at home - when you say float I'm picturing something like in the back of a toilet tank that moderates water level. Probably a good thing that I wasn't on the design team.
That would explain why the BMW R1100S looks so much like a urinal. Especially in white.
Really though as long as you aren't loosing significant oil from the gearbox between changes I wouldn't worry, the seepage will help keep the universal joint seals moist which is a good thing.Yes, setting the drum end float carefully will make an appreciable difference but unless you are unhappy with the way the box is behaving I'd leave it alone. Having said that it is an almost 35 year old component so it would probably benefit from a freshen-up.Pete
Rod, by 1980 they had long since added the o-ring that supposedly seals the shaft/worm. I think that was added about the time of the 850T. If you want to make it even drier you can add the tiny crush washer that sits on the end of the 5th gear splines to assist in squishing the o-ring uniformly. Really though as long as you aren't loosing significant oil from the gearbox between changes I wouldn't worry, the seepage will help keep the universal joint seals moist which is a good thing.Pete
I've read about the viton seal replacement for the output shaft.Gutsibits sell a gearbox rebuild kit which includes the input and output shaft seals, but they are both blue (as is my output shaft seal).Looking at HMB-Guzzi, they sell a similar kit, but they differentiate between the two seals and as you can see, they are different colours.I take it the brown one is the viton seal?http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/shop/product_info.php?info=p103_dichtungssatz-5-gang-getriebe-grosse-modelle.html
Actually if you look at the parts list you'll find that at least for the later five speeds there is a size discrepancy in the two seals. From memory, (I'll look it up later.) one is 1/2 a mm bigger in the ID. In reality this is unimportant. The Viton seals supplied by the factory are also directional. This too is rather by the by and like Martin I've never had an issue with non directional seals.Pete
Good grief I find myself agreeing with Jackson Racing :o ;DJohn
No need to bash the crap out of the shouldered nut but if it is already too damaged to use they are still available but the position can be changed by a thin shim.
Hex nut for rear output shaft is same thread as silly peg nut, you can use rear nut on front, makes tightening and locking it a doddle, just need 27mm deep socket
I'm not sure what you're referring to here Steve, when you say spline are you referring to the lock washer tab where it's bent over into one of the gaps in the peg nut on the Clutchshaft?The problem is that the washer tabs are spaced in such a manner that only one tab will be available to be knocked into one gap at a particular location. None of the other gaps in the peg nut will line up with the lockwasher tabs, so you only get one location to lock it. If you shimmed it out then the lockwasher tab would be aligned to a different gap in the nut.I'm struggling to explain it well
I haven't used the goofy peg nut on any rebuilds for years once I found this out.I usually grind off most of the 'tab' portion of the nut. Not sure why. I doubt there is anything there it could touch.
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