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Problem :- Front right blinker doesn't work at all- Back right blinker only works when alternator is sending juice (from around 3000 rpm)- Dashboard Headlight Led is almost off when under 3000 rpm
I would check all grounds and power connections in the affected circuits, but first, have you checked the battery voltage below and above 3000 RPM?
As asked, what in the world is a "Dashboard Headlight Led"?From your description, it almost sounds like a loose connection or relay contact, and engine vibration is sort of making it connect.
i had no end of electrical gremlins on my V50III. It turned out they had grounded the system to a painted frame After I sanded and cleaned the area, reattaching the ground, things started working. It is worth a shot.
If your left signals are working properly, the flasher unit, the battery and charging system are fine. If you can swap blinker bulbs, put the both the left ones into the right side blinkers and see what happens. If they are one piece blinkers (Non removable bulbs) swap them to make sure it's not a defective blinker unit. A quicker way to test the right side blinkers is to hook them up directly to the battery, but do this only if you are confident you won't short the battery to ground. Do you have some jumper leads with clips? Alternatively you could (Very carefully) connect the blinker directly to the battery once the blinker is detached.If you're not sure how, post a pic of the blinker and its' wiring. If it's not defective bulbs/blinkers:A test light is handy here. (Or a mulitmeter.) Ground the test light's clip (or meter negative wire) to the frame and test the light (meter) by touching the probe to the battery + , or a known live 12 volt terminal at the fuse box. Now see if you get a blinking test light at say, one of the front right blinker wires when the blinker switch is on . If there is only one wire going to the blinker, then that should have the blinking 12V. No blinking light means trouble with wiring between the blinker switch and the blinker, or possibly a problem with the blinker switch itself.If you get the blinking 12V:Look at the wiring. If there is only one wire going to each blinker, then the return path for current is through the metal part of the blinker and it's electrical connection to the frame. The metal of the blinker unit has to touch an unpainted , non rusty spot on the frame to make a good connection. If there are two wires, then check for blinking voltage on one - the other is ground. That ground wire wire should be attached to a clean unpainted spot on the frame.Hope that helps. Pics of the blinker wires and the connections might be helpful.
The headlight light indicator* that was replaced by a led bulb (I mentioned the type in case the problem could come from there).Actually I've replaced the original defective relays by new ones recently, I'll be checking them tomorrow.
I have LED bulbs in both the signals and in the indicator lights on the "dash" in my V50 III. Since there are two dash lights (not one for both), there should be no possibility of "cross talk" and no need for any diode(s).
I don't know about your V50III but I do know that LED's draw tiny amounts of current and some "blinker units" will not function correctly if the current isn't up to designed specs. I was considering changing the lamps in my 71 Fiat, but this problem gets even worse with the bi-metallic flashers of old, they need lots of current...hope you muster through...
An electronic flasher (about $7-$10) is cheap and fixes the "fast flash" issue. My V50 III and Convert are all LED with zero issues. I stopped using bi-metallic flashers due to poor quality, long before going with LEDs, most didn't work correctly right out of the box.
...most modern bikes don't have a relay, flashing is a dash function.-------------------------------------------------
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