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It seems like the oil is thinning out as it sits, then it needs to run a little bit to cool the oil so it will thicken (viscosity rise) in order to improve compression.
I have a 2012 V7C. Bought new last year (44 miles on it). Not too long after I did the 600 mile service, if I stopped it for about 29 minutes, it would start fine, rev fine, but not idle. Sometimes the high idle lever would speed it up or I would have to hold the throttle up, to keep it going. After almost a full minute, it would idle somewhat and slowly smooth out and pick up a little speed to it's proper idle speed. If I did not wait for it to smooth out, I could still drive away normally, from then on I could stop and it would idle fine. It seems like the oil is thinning out as it sits, then it needs to run a little bit to cool the oil so it will thicken (viscosity rise) in order to improve compression. I have not attempted to do a compression check, as my tester's 'o' ring would probably melt from engine heat.? I did change first service to Red Line 10w60, then next service, to Liqui Moly. Still acts the same. Also, cold start in the 60's, would idle fine, start it in the 70's would need the high idle lever on to keep it running. Colder weather would sometimes require high idle lever, sometimes holding throttle up was needed to keep it going until warmed up. It starts fine, runs fine, gets about 44 to 50 mpg consistently. Both plugs have a good color, valves were not tight when serviced. I am assuming some sensor is acting up, any thoughts?
The OP was a little confusing. But I was left wondering IF there is an actual problem. It almost sounds like the OP is worrying because on COLD starts (30 minutes should be time to cool below operating temps no?) the motor needs the fast idle lever to idle smoothly until it warms up.Rbond, you also talk about holding the throttle open a little when cold. You do realize that's all the fast idle lever does (I.e. it holds the throttle linkage open slightly for a slightly faster/smoother idle when the motor is not fully at operating temp).
Fairy-nuff, but there seemed to be an implication that there wasn't a problem prior to the self-administered 'First Service'. Hence the request to know what was actually done.Pete
Too rich on warm start maybe? See if there's black smoke when the problem happens.
Have done two services so far. Changed engine oil, trans oil, and rear end oil. Both times valves were not tight, second time, only two actually had to be adjusted. As stated before, cold start when ambient temps are in the 60's, don't need high idle lever. Normal idle speed when warm is approx. 1200 rpm. When ambient temps are in the 70's, need the high idle lever until it warms up, then turn it off. All that is not a problem, just seems backward. Problem is, go for a ride, somewhere, etc. and turn it off for about 20 minutes. Re-start engine and will not idle, wants to die unless either hold throttle up or sometimes the high idle lever. Not every time will the lever raise the idle. Run it for almost a minute then bike will idle normally. Engine will accelerate properly all the time and will otherwise run properly. When riding, stopping at lights, etc. engine idles at 1200 smoothly, kill engine for about 10 -15 minutes, bike will restart either normally or sometimes stumble a little then speeds up and smooths out in a very short time. Engine other wise runs normally, accelerates normally, runs smooth and gets consistently good mpg.
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