Valtek style tensioner

[kfz]

Are they all this badly made.  Horrible feeling plastic, looks brittle and nothing like the hard nylon I was expecting. Its got molding flash all over it, the spring looks pathetically thin.  Are they all like this?  BTW it was bought from a reputable dealer.

Kev

2019-01-01_09-58-43 by Kev Foote, on Flickr

[Frenchfrog]

I share your concerns Kfz but after  80,000 miles in mine  it still worked well.Because I was flush I replaced it with this  https://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-Chain-tensioner-CNC-made-HMB-design     but I don't really think it's going to make any real difference...just better made and a nicer (and more expensive-guzzi content ) design !

[kfz]

I share your concerns Kfz but after  80,000 miles in mine  it still worked well.Because I was flush I replaced it with this  https://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-Chain-tensioner-CNC-made-HMB-design     but I don't really think it's going to make any real difference...just better made and a nicer (and more expensive-guzzi content ) design !

Sorry dont quite understand you did 80K on the Valtek one or you replaced with that expensive Guzzi look alike one.  Actually thats the tensioner Im familer with, bit of a shock when I opened the Mille and found it just had a block and no tensioner. I though Guzzi had switched to the small foot type ones by then ~ 1989.  Just goes to prove the Mille was a bitsa made out of anything they had lying round as the time.

[Kiwi_Roy]

If you think that one looks weak it's nothing like the weak little brass thing it replaced.
The tensioner is just taking up the slack on the loose side of the chain, no real tension.


Actually my VII Sport had one that looked very much like this, it didn't seem to have any tension on it so I replaced it for a Valtek
https://hmb-guzzi.de/Timing-Chain-tensioner-CNC-made-HMB-design
Yet the one on my high mileage California II was the same and it seemed to be working fine.

[Frenchfrog]

I did replace the valtek one Kz ...after that mileage and as I was allready in for a big parts bill i guessed the HMB would be  good insurance.

[pete roper]

Kev, I've used dozens of them, they're weird but they work. The only failure *I* had was one I sold to someone who installed it themself and when the pin broke it was all my fault. I chose to differ.

Pete

[Murray]

Think the 1100 sport is on its third (in 120 000miles, went in with the motor rebuild) No issues they do have a lifespan however, if the spring was any larger or the blade any stiffer you'd be hard pressed to actually install it.

[John Croucher]

Obviously you have not removed the oem tensioner.  The spring in it is smaller than a paper clip.  The only thing the oem pad does is keep the chain from rubbing through the crank case as it slowly wears three grooves in it.  Putting the timing assemble back together with the new tensioner will change your opinion about being cheap and flimsy.  I found using a pair of needle nose vice grips to hold the tensioner against the side of the crankcase while reinstalling gears and chain is very useful.  The sound the timing assembly makes after installing will be apparent and the engine timing will be more precise because the cam will not flop from valve spring pressure. 

While you are at it, look at the rocker arms and valve stems for wear.  Clean out the oil pump.

[bmc5733946]

One of the primary benefits of the Valtek type tensioner for distributor type ignitions is much more accurate ignition timing. It takes the slop out between crank, cam, and distributor.My timing marks became and remain much steadier and more readable than with either the simple original sliding manual adjustable tensioner or the later factory spring loaded type built like the HMB one I replaced it with first. The factory spring loaded one allowed ignition timing to vary considerably just like a loose manually adjustable one did. I have used and installed all three types and will not use any but the Valtek type again.

Brian

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

I found using a pair of needle nose vice grips to hold the tensioner against the side of the crankcase while reinstalling gears and chain is very useful. 

The easiest way I found to install the bow type tensioner is to install the bracket first, then the chain and sprockets (as one assembly), and last slip the tensioner "shoe" onto the pivot stud. If necessary, I use a pair of needle-nose Vise-Grips to pull the spring out enough to slip onto the stud along with the "shoe".

[pete roper]

The easiest way I found to install the bow type tensioner is to install the bracket first, then the chain and sprockets (as one assembly), and last slip the tensioner "shoe" onto the pivot stud. If necessary, I use a pair of needle-nose Vise-Grips to pull the spring out enough to slip onto the stud along with the "shoe".

That’s how I always did it.

Pete

[Huzo]

I bought one of those to replace the standard one in my '07 Norge, but found that there's a bloody great lump of casting in the way and the pin that the standard little shoe pivots on, is a tight as a fish's arse as well..
Pete was all over this like a cheap suit..
I put the new chain in and now have a new standard shoe and spring, ready to go in @ 160,000 k.

Bugger it all...!

[Stevex]

This is the slop I found on the original chain of my LM2 after about 34K miles.
That block of liquorice is not a tensioner.





Replaced the chain (from a Mercedes Benz, same chain, a lot cheaper) and fitted the Valtek.

[czakky82]

Is the spring even needed on these? Is that spring going to hold tension on that piece of plastic?

[Bill Owens]

Seems to .

[kfz]

Thanks guys,  I've cleaned up all the molding flash off it.  I will drop a bit of thread lock on the stud after I install it.

Ta
Kev

[guzzisteve]

Make sure bolts are not too long and interferes w/crank. Do a dry run w/o chain and look up from pan area.

[Huzo]

Has anyone managed to get one of those Valteks onto an '07 Norge ?
I think it's impossible and have been advised as such.

[bigbikerrick]

Its funny, how some mentioned that the quality of the "valtek" plastic looks a little questionable....Wha n I installed it in my cal II , it brought back memories of when I was a kid, in the 60's, my parents used to take me to amusement parks on the east coast, on the way down to Florida, such as Busch Gardens, etc, They always had machines, at the entrances where you would deposit a couple of coins, and it would mold you a dinosaur, or some other toy, from a type of thermo plastic, right in front of your eyes! It would drop out of the machine still hot, with a very unique smell. That reminded me of the valtek plastic!  Any of you other old timers remember these?
Rick.

[Tony F]

These tensioners were first produced about 30 years ago as I recall ( I fitted one to my SP1000 around that time) so if they are still available there can't have been too many issues with them.

Tony

[kfz]

Im correct in saying that Guzzi do not specify a torque setting for the crank sprocket peg nut or the Oil pump sprocket nut?

Kev

[pete roper]

Common sense Kev. The crank nut is a coarseish thread and the crank is nitride steel. The peg nut is something not a lot harder than mild steel. Essentially you do it up till you fart and if your 'Phf'Uffer valve is too strong the nut is the sacrificial part.

The oil pump nur is an 8x1mm thread rather than the ISO standard 8x1.25, yes it will take more torque but in all honesty I think the 'Book' figure for 8x1.25 is probably excessive.

Use the correct lock washer, (A simple split spring washer.) or a Schnoore and a drop of Loctite 243 and do it up until you feel you are coming up against the tolerance of elasticity. It's always worked for me......

Pete

[kfz]

Common sense Kev. The crank nut is a coarseish thread and the crank is nitride steel. The peg nut is something not a lot harder than mild steel. Essentially you do it up till you fart and if your 'Phf'Uffer valve is too strong the nut is the sacrificial part.

The oil pump nur is an 8x1mm thread rather than the ISO standard 8x1.25, yes it will take more torque but in all honesty I think the 'Book' figure for 8x1.25 is probably excessive.

Use the correct lock washer, (A simple split spring washer.) or a Schnoore and a drop of Loctite 243 and do it up until you feel you are coming up against the tolerance of elasticity. It's always worked for me......

Pete

Ta.
Sounds like a plan, I guessed so.  I also enjoy playing the Guzzi manual game ,where you have to guess which other bike model's manual has the information pertinent to yours... And of course the answer is, none of them!  Love it, dont ever change Guzzi!

[s1120]

Its funny, how some mentioned that the quality of the "valtek" plastic looks a little questionable....Wha n I installed it in my cal II , it brought back memories of when I was a kid, in the 60's, my parents used to take me to amusement parks on the east coast, on the way down to Florida, such as Busch Gardens, etc, They always had machines, at the entrances where you would deposit a couple of coins, and it would mold you a dinosaur, or some other toy, from a type of thermo plastic, right in front of your eyes! It would drop out of the machine still hot, with a very unique smell. That reminded me of the valtek plastic!  Any of you other old timers remember these?
Rick.

I think my sister still has the mermaid we got on our trip to Cypress Gardens back in '72..  remember the burning hot plastic well!!! 

[kfz]

I think my sister still has the mermaid we got on our trip to Cypress Gardens back in '72..  remember the burning hot plastic well!!!

I was going to say the plastic reminded me of a cheap knockoff plastic model Spitfire. 

Not helped that Ive been working a lot on my Yamaha's which arguably Ive been coming to the conclusion that Yamaha's offer the best consistent quality of all the components of any motorcycle manufacturer.  Never really find anything on them thats been cheaply made or corner cut. I  digress.

Kev

[bigbikerrick]

I think my sister still has the mermaid we got on our trip to Cypress Gardens back in '72..  remember the burning hot plastic well!!!

    I remember those mermaids as well, as Cypress Gardens!  Lots of great memories.  HaHaHa.
Rick.

[Huzo]

These tensioners were first produced about 30 years ago as I recall ( I fitted one to my SP1000 around that time) so if they are still available there can't have been too many issues with them.

Tony

Hi Tony.
Welcome from Oz, thanks for your input..