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Great info , thanks leafman. I have heard the grub screw can be a bugger, did you have any problem loosening yours? Also wondering what the recommended lube is? I am also curios about the relationship between the length of the push rod to the travel on the master cylinder. Other than free play wouldn't the fluid being displaced be the same regardless of the starting point of the stroke? Assuming there is no air in the system. By lengthening the rod, are you essentially compensating for wear throughout the mechanically linked side of the clutch? ie. pivots throw out bearings ect. Hope that makes some sense.
I'm trying to add shorty levers with better reach adjustment (and some bling) and can't get the grub screw out. Before I round it off on the stock lever, does anyone know where I can find a replacement screw? I'll also buy a good 1.5mm hex wrench to make sure I'm using the correct size.TIA,Tom
Do be careful if attempting this. The adjustment is very fine. If you extend the plunger too far it won't allow the piston to fully return and it will block the priming hole. This leaves the system closed and heat from the clutch will preload the thrust beRing and, if serious enough reduce the clamping force on the clutch and it will start to slip.Pete
My shifting got much better when I drained and replaced the Hydraulic fluid.aprox 25,000 miles.