This should get all the scaredy cats wetting themselves!

[MGrego]

It is oddly drilled most of the way through. If you look closely you can see the step on the back side.

Man that thing got rusty sitting in a trash box in the garage for a couple years.

Thanks for the picture -- one less scenario to worry about !

[pete roper]

Well, this morning I finally got everything back together, (Jeez, Norges are boring with all their crappy little brackets and pins ) filled it with oil found out the shitty LiFe battery had gone to sleep so I rang Mark to ensure I didn't do something that would cause it to explode! He set me right and then with some trepidation I pressed the go button.

Arse! It wasn't running on the RH side! How'd that happen when I was so careful with the timing?? Ah! Yes, (Hmmph!) it helps if you remember to plug the injector in! Try again and brumph! and it immediately settles down into a regular 1200rpm idle!

No nasty bottom end noises, yet! Verily I am a mechanical god!  NOT! 

Nah, sounds good. If it holds together it could of been so much worse.......

Pete

[beetle]

Win!

[SED]

Hurray!  Great info.

Why are there holes in the flinger plate at all? 

[pete roper]

I can only assume that they are something to do with the manufacturing process when they are stamped out.

Pete

[MGrego]

Hurray!  Great info.

Why are there holes in the flinger plate at all?

The holes should be called "Roulette Holes", designed for people that want to gamble with the life of their engine.......

[Chuck in Indiana]

I can only assume that they are something to do with the manufacturing process when they are stamped out.

Pete

If I had a good picture, I could probably give an educated guess on the stamping process. I apprenticed as a stamping diemaker back in another lifetime. 

[guzzisteve]

I can only assume that they are something to do with the manufacturing process when they are stamped out.

Pete

I'm convinced it is in case the assembler screws up at the factory, so they can fix it quickly w/o disassembly. The fact that Pete has seen it and this bike trashed confirms the idea.

[SED]

I can only assume that they are something to do with the manufacturing process when they are stamped out.

Pete

Would seem easy to make the holes smaller than the lock pins.  (too many engineers?)

[pete roper]

I started rollerising a 2010 today. I'll post up pics of the flinger plate a bit later. Interestingly the early bikes only have two large holes. Later ones,(Like the Norge.) have four. Two extra tiny ones.

Pete

[Huzo]

I started rollerising a 2010 today. I'll post up pics of the flinger plate a bit later. Interestingly the early bikes only have two large holes. Later ones,(Like the Norge.) have four. Two extra tiny ones.

Pete

Same number as the VPC

[pete roper]

Chuck? Some pics.









Pete

[Chuck in Indiana]

Chuck? Some pics.

Ok. I can see no reason for those holes. <shrug>  That part could be made in one operation.

[Wayne Orwig]

I wonder if it is to allow the cam to be aligned and the pin to be inserted AFTER assembly. Then rotate the plate and tighten it. Maybe an attempt to speed up assembly.

[lucian]

I wonder if it is to allow the cam to be aligned and the pin to be inserted AFTER assembly. Then rotate the plate and tighten it. Maybe an attempt to speed up assembly.

 
  To coincidental for the holes to align with he cam sprocket pin.

[pete roper]

  To coincidental for the holes to align with he cam sprocket pin.

But from an assembly point of view there would be nothing to be gained by doing that. All it would do is increase the risk of dropping the pin into the bowels of the engine!

Pete

[MGrego]

That pin must fit into the cam shaft tightly and self retain, or else we would be hearing of this happening more often, no ?  I'll bet not that much attention is given to the position of the holes in the plate during assembly, and then there is also the possibility the plate can rotate on the bolt over time.  Do you think this case is a rarity ?

[guzzisteve]

It doesn't fit real tight, you are supposed to cover it up so this don't happen. The bolt holding the sprocket and slinger is long and has Loctite on it and is torqued up. I use the small hole to cover it, so I know it's location. If it's an early model I mark w/grease pencil.
You have to move the plate and torque the bolt before Loctite dries. In a factory setting they are going fast for production RE's.

[pete roper]

I've heard of very few cases of this occurring.

The pin is an interference fit in the cam, in fact on this one I replaced the pin as the one that had moved was sloppy in its hole in the cam. Luckily I have a bajillion pins in dead flat tappet cams so I just removed one and pressed it in. Remember though that the majority of the drive is delivered by friction from the clamping force between sprocket and cam imparted by the bolt. The pin is mainly for timing the cam and as a fail-safe. As long as the plate covers the pin it shouldn't be able to work it's way out.

Anyway, the Norge went home yesterday. The owner texted me from Newcastle, about five hours away, and said the bike had never run better and felt both smoother and more powerful which would lead me to believe the cam timing on that side had never been right.

Pete