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Somebody replaced your rear main seal at some point.Chrome flakes are likely embedded in your bearings, they will need to be replaced. Iíve got a new 1under front, Iíll sell for cheap. Best to take your crank to a machine shop and have them inspect/measure for you. Might polish out (doubtful), might need to re-grind.
The machinist will have to inspect and measure with a micrometer.1st over means that the new bearing is slightly oversized and matches what has been machined off.
Ok so the machine shop will let me know what size based upon any work they do to it?Thanks again.
Yes, itís best to have the bearings in hand so they can grind to that size.
You've made some headway.Some tool thoughts.If you need a 2 or 3 leg puller, check your local auto parts to see if they have one for loan or rent.For something to hold the crank from turning, at least while the flywheel is on, a scrap bit of metal with two holes drilled in it. Use like this and set for the direction you are turning. You want to pull the bolts apart, not push together. Last bolt use a screwdriver in the ring gear:For the clutch install, you can use the trans input shaft splined hub and the appropriate bolt. A note for the clutch install. There should be an arrow on the lip of your flywheel. If you look at my pic you will see a black line that is lined up with the arrow. That line is exactly between two teeth that the pressure plate slides down in. There is a stamped dot on the pressure plate, it goes exactly in line with the arrow, between the two teeth. This lines up the spring location holes.Another FYI. The arrow is for TDC LH side. When you put the crank and bearings in, turn the crank so that it is fully up on the LH side in the hole for the cylinder.. Then slide the flywheel on with the arrow lined up at the LH little nib cast into the block. The bolt holes should just about be lined up, maybe a half bolt hole or less. Line up and install at least one bolt to keep in place. Double check the your work, it will be obvious if you picked the wrong bolt hole. You might want to mark the crank and flywheel with a dab of paint or a sharpie. This will keep your timing marks correct.Hope this helps a bit.Tom
A timing chain tip that helps at least me.Before you remove the timing chain and gears. Line up the timing marks on the gears. This will be TDC LH. Then paint or sharpie a line on each gear from a link on the chain to the gear.When you go to install the chain and gears. Put the cam and crank gear on and see where the marks line up. Remove gears or gear and rotate the crank or cam as needed to line up the marks. Remove gears without moving the cam or crank.Then lay out your chain on a table. Set all the gears into the chain lining up the paint marks. Then sorta wind up the chain on the gears so that you can pick them up as a complete set. You'll understand this after dropping them a few times.Then put the crank gear on just a little in the correct place for the key way. The sorta unwind the chain/gears so that the gears will slide on the shafts and slide the cam gear on and also the oil pump gear.Once the gears are aligned on the keys on the cam and crank shafts, your paint marks should all be lined up. If not, remove and adjust as needed.The oil pump key way can be aligned by rotating the oil pump shaft, then slide the key in after the gear is on.Hope this helps,Tom
Thank you!! I'll know when I get the bell housing timing cover off but I think one is the early ones without the chain. We'll see!
The timing chain started with engine 33448.
Then it looks like you have gears, not chain. My apologies.There should be "factory" painted marks on the teeth of the gears. IIRR, the cam has a mark that covers two teeth and the crank just on one tooth. Maybe the other way around.Much easier than the chain!!Tom
I see now. Whatís the diameter of that tool?
Yeah seems weird that it wouldn't bottom out sooner and push the alternator off. But I see what you mea about two sets of threads... the regular bolt threads thru the first set then into the second deeper set. So maybe I do just need that little push rod instead.
Here it is:https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/boalt-rotor642tool.htmThe tip is 10mm diameter. Wrong one assumedly?
I have the same tool (except black oxide) and have used it dozens of times, never had it go in that far, always worked. I have had the "fun" of removing one of those short pieces that was jammed into the nose of a crank. You should not need anything but the tool.
Yeah something's off... hopefully with the tool and not the motor, lol.
You're right... sorry about 6mmDo I need to put anything back in or on the back of the crank?
Better to be cautious than break parts.
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