CEV switch repair?

[wicks]

Anyone know of a reference on repairing the CEV pill box light switch? Mine has finally become unwilling to give me high beam. Wonder if I can take it apart and fix something to make it happy again.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Once you have the chrome cover off, you'll see how simple/crude these switches are. For high/low, the plastic rocker button just moves a cylindrical roller across some contacts. IIRC, there's a small pin that can be pulled and then the button and roller can be removed and everything cleaned. You might try spraying it with Caig DeoxIT first.

[Groover]

Not sure which type is the pill box, but I opened the one on my G5 (plastic colored block looking ones), and I just want to mention this... there is a little ball in there that can jump out and get lost when you take it apart. Don't ask how I know - I'm still looking for mine 6-months later... 

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

Not sure which type is the pill box, but I opened the one on my G5 (plastic colored block looking ones), and I just want to mention this... there is a little ball in there that can jump out and get lost when you take it apart. Don't ask how I know - I'm still looking for mine 6-months later... 

CEV "pillbox" or "snuffbox" switch:

[Chuck in Indiana]

You'd think something that simple would work forever if you have relays on the loads it is switching..

[canuck750]

They work forever because Guzzi located them in such an awkward location that it is very difficult if not impossible to stretch your fingers from the grips to reach the damn things. I put them on my bikes to keep the original look (charm?) but I sure understand why most people threw them out and installed Japanese switchgear that works better and is simple to use.
If originality is not important I would put the original switch away for safe keeping and install a universal switch unit available from MG Cycle.

IF you are going to work with the original do not attempt to remove or replace any of the wires with heat / solder, electrical conductive epoxy is your friend. I have the remains of a nice NOS switch in my junk box, complete with melted plastic around the wire terminal lugs which has rendered it useless.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

You'd think something that simple would work forever if you have relays on the loads it is switching..

They will.

They work forever because Guzzi located them in such an awkward location that it is very difficult if not impossible to stretch your fingers from the grips to reach the damn things.

I find the reach to the headlight/horn switch to be virtually the same as any other switch, however the reach to the right-side signal switch requires a thumb 6" long. taking your hand off of the throttle or reaching across with your left hand. That's why I do a simple toggle switch located under the left-side perch.

[wicks]

Thanks, it was an easy fix - cleaned up contacts and flipped the high/low switch 180 degrees to get fresh plastic to grip the "tumbler". Little grease on the pin. Genius little junk design isn't it.

Hard to use but original is my flavor of choice. Keeping the mucked up original dome top screws in them also adds a bit of character. ;)

[Rich A]

I find the reach to the headlight/horn switch to be virtually the same as any other switch, however the reach to the right-side signal switch requires a thumb 6" long. taking your hand off of the throttle or reaching across with your left hand.

I can't remember how I did it, but I reversed the switches on my Ambo so that the turn signals are on the left. Works better for me that-a-way.

Rich A

[Kiwi_Roy]

I rebuilt my direction indicator switch with a couple of reed switches.
I don't ride at night so the headlight is just on low beam across the generator, no switch required.