Workbench suggestions?

[john fish]

Building a workbench to span the back of my workshop. Using mostly materials I had lying around. About 13” 6” long and 32” deep. Yeah, higher than usual to accommodate my height and arthritic spine.

I’m thinking of adding one of those wood vises. The bench will be used for general purposes. I will reinforce one end for my anvil.

Anything else you’ve always wanted in a workbench?   Suggestions?


 

[Ncdan]

Attach a full cover of sheet metal as some job applications are very hard on a wood surface.

[RinkRat II]

Not sure of your anvil size, But if it's over 25lb I would reccomend a stand alone anvil stand . Easier to work around than benchtop. +1 on the sheet metal cover. My $.02

      Paul B

[Ncdan]

Not sure of your anvil size, But if it's over 25lb I would reccomend a stand alone anvil stand . Easier to work around than benchtop. +1 on the sheet metal cover. My $.02

      Paul B

Good advice Rat. I built my vise Stand from a heavy truck wheel, 4 by 4 steel post and heavy steel top plate.

[john fish]

Thanks, gents.  Always great advice here.  A good friend also recommended a sheet metal top.  I went to Habitat for Humanities store the other day but couldn't find anything suitable.  I'll keep an eye out for a decent top.

And great advice on the standalone anvil station.  I actually have a very sturdy metal table in the shop that is currently full of clutter-- that'll be the new anvil stand.

[Perazzimx14]

My problem with work benches is I pile junk on them. The bigger the bench the more junk.  Then when I actually need work on something I clear out just slightly less area I actually need and struggle working around and on top of the junk.








 

[fotoguzzi]

My problem with work benches is I pile junk on them. The bigger the bench the more junk.  Then when I actually need work on something I clear out just slightly less area I actually need and struggle working around and on top of the junk.

dang, that is so me.. i do have a nice heavy duty bench about 3x6' on wheels I also have removable fire brick platform for welding. I can roll it out to the driveway if I'm going to make a big mess or burn something.

[LesP]

I built two new ones when I moved Interstate.
Build it solid (56 mm tops on mine) and stable.
I am a big fan of cutting boards to work on and would personally never have a hard top on anything an engine goes near.

Easy to wipe off, no chance of damage to anything even if by mistake.
I have another basic bench for other 'stuff.

[Tom]

Maybe some upright braces floor to middle beam to prevent any sag.  4' led work light for illumination.  Some rack/drawers top/bottom of the top.  Some thoughts.

[Huzo]

A vertical back and sides 1’ or so high.
As mentioned, a sheet metal top over wood with a section of wood still exposed so flat gasket surfaces are not inadvertently damaged.
Braced solidly to a (relatively), immovable object...(brick wall).
Vise with right hand end of jaws past the edge so objects can hang vertically.
Stationary vise jaw just outboard of the front edge.
A VERY solid section about 1’ square with a vertical steel post directly underneath, for use driving bearings and other anvil type applications.
A neat fit in a standard shipping container for when you send it free of charge to me in Oz.....

[Huzo]

dang, that is so me.. i do have a nice heavy duty bench about 3x6' on wheels I also have removable fire brick platform for welding. I can roll it out to the driveway if I'm going to make a big mess or burn something.

I should follow that advice..

[Chuck in Indiana]

When I started on the "last airplane project.." I needed a flat level bench 14 feet long and 32" deep for the wing assembly jig and fuselage jig. I bought 2 house construction I beams and skinned both sides with plywood. Maybe a little overkill? It's flat and sturdy, though..

My portable work bench is a stainless steel counter top with double sink on wheels. I found the counter top for free (Guzzi content)  and made the base out of 2X4s. Easy to clean, and great for engine building..

[moto]

I put another sheet of plywood about 10" below the top to make a shelf. I slide plastic storage boxes onto it to serve as drawers:





( I like the rotating-head vise for positioning parts for abuse.)

Architect's swing-arm lamps every 3 feet help a lot:





Moto

Edit: One thing I've always regretted is not installing one or more hardwired power strips at the back of the bench top. I installed several outlet boxes instead, and since have found I can always use more outlets.

[Tom]

 

[egschade]

A kegerator and tap

[harry h]

I'm really fond of a torsion box for my work surfaces.  This one is 4'x8' but have several smaller ones, all on wheels in my shop.  This one is dead flat (and a bit of pain to get it that way) but not necessary for just a general work surface.

[Cal3Me]

All these hard surfaces shown above need something a little softer to set things on and easy to keep clean ….. my bench top is our former counter top and the area I use most is the spot where my free found on the side of the road (guzzi content)heavy duty rubber mud flap is nailed to. I regret not having my vise located on something a little sturdier  because the things laying on my bench get bounced around when I need to pound on something

[Lumpy Idle]

this is really a wildly personal domain for choice. i have various setups for work benches. i have one for electronics and the foredom flexshaft/dremel work - smaller, finer work. it is made of 36"x 80" solid core door on braced 4x4 legs. works a treat. its nice to be isolate the smaller fine work from the heavier stuff and the greasy stuff.

i sometimes use the harbor freight motorcycle lift as a workbench. the advantage is the adjustable height and the ability to get it mucked up without worry.

 i have another setup for carpentry work and it is not what i would like. i really would like to get a decent carpentry bench set up. a future project and there are lots of places to go for inspiration. look at april wilkerson or laura kampf or jimmy diresta for good ideas. ohh, and mathias wandel too.

when needs demand i can set up the baker scaffold and that gives me room to spread out a project. the baker is a really handy device.

i do not have an anvil but i have a fairly substantial 6" vice that is bolted to a metal frame and that is bolted through the floor into the floor joists.

my workbench setup needs to be tweaked a bit but one thing that i have learned is that is nice to various bench setups in different locations. its a luxury. you can have stuff set up on one bench and if you start on a different project or a different segment of a project you can leave it all in place rather than tearing it down to move forward with a different aspect.

[Tom]

A drink fridge and microwave oven.  Place for your computer.   

[bmc5733946]

I made a commitment that everything in my new shop area would be on wheels. I have retractable casters on my two work benches that both have 10 gauge metal covers over 3/4 plywood. The benches are 2ft by 8ft and have a shelf about 16in below the top surface.  The benches have a 50year history with me, I built them as one 4x8 bench before I left my parents home at 18yrs old, split them for first house I rented across from the one I bought and still live in today. The casters are available on Amazon and other places. I have rolling shelving units for everything else. I would take photos but everything is being moved out to complete the shop project and accomodate some other projects. Next up floor paint and baseboard molding for shop area. I do have wood panels that can cover the metal benches surfaces for work that requires it.

Brian

[80CX100]

My problem with work benches is I pile junk on them. The bigger the bench the more junk.  Then when I actually need work on something I clear out just slightly less area I actually need and struggle working around and on top of the junk.

     Yup 

     I agree with the comments about wheeled portable work surfaces. I picked up a couple of mechanic carts and a bigger disassembly table on wheels from Princess Auto, they're very handy to bring right up close to the job at hand.

     I also picked up some folding tables from costco and recently a Baker Scaffolding as mentioned to round out the available work and storage spaces, but it's never enough,lol.

     Good lighting is my biggest challenge on any task, so I invested in lots of 4' LED shop lights and have a variety of portable LED work lights to fill in the inevitable shadows that seem to show up on every job,lol 

     Some great tips, I'll be following this one closely.

     Kelly

[Don G]

Yup, can never have enough light, LED is the way to go.  DonG

[Perazzimx14]

I also ways likt the top to over hang the the frame so you can clamp stuff down.

Bondo is great for filling gouges or hole that will inevatibly get drilled into the surface. MIx up a paddle full skim over the effected areas and 10 minutes later nice flat smooth work surface.

[twowheeladdict]

Thanks, gents.  Always great advice here.  A good friend also recommended a sheet metal top.  I went to Habitat for Humanities store the other day but couldn't find anything suitable.  I'll keep an eye out for a decent top.

And great advice on the standalone anvil station.  I actually have a very sturdy metal table in the shop that is currently full of clutter-- that'll be the new anvil stand.

A stout overhang with enough room for C-clamps and Bar clamps as needed.  I use a combination Vise/anvil that rotates.  Works well for me.

Organized storage underneath. 

[cliffrod]

Unless you know with 100% certainty exactly and only what you'll be doing, the best workbench or workshop advice I can offer is to make it flexible or convertible.  Build with good coated decking screws, not sheet rock screws or nails....  That way you'll be able to adjust or even discard things that don't work and start over again.   My stone studio was purpose built and has barely changed in nearly 17 yrs because it was specifically designed for all necessary equipment from day one.   The other shops have been continuously adjusted since then as equipment was added and eliminated.   Over the past few weeks, I've largely settled my wood/model shop.  My metal shop is getting very close.  My kitchen is great now as well.

I like 2-3 coats of polyurethane on my wood benches and cabinets, both to seal it and help it grow honey golden as time passes..  Think about the height of your bench vs what may be stored under or over it.  Going up or down a little can make a big difference.   I like free but sometimes it costs too much, so will spend a little sometimes to make a big difference.   Watch for a piece of stainless for an area on the top.  A piece of rubber is nice too.  plan for storage so your bench doesn't become said storage...  Even if you don't have that piece (storage or equipment) yet, leave room for it.  Then it can be less disruptive when it does happen.   Metro brand or clone brands of adjustable shelving (NSF-stamped is the kind to get) is fantastic for storage.  Used pieces are cheap if you watch for it.

[Texas Turnip]

Lots of good tips. One of a million mistakes I've made in life was to mount a grinder on the work bench. YUCK.
Many many years ago a master mechanic told me to build and 3x5 and keep it clean. I've seen benches that went down the whole side of a shop with a shape of 4x40 and they were jam packed.

Tex

[Groover]

I have an old 60" drafting table as a workbench and it has a self healing type mat on it. Wasn't my intention to use that, but now that I have, I love that aspect. It's just nice layer to have over the wood or metal if that is your surface.

Like this: https://bit.ly/319WCtN

[Lumpy Idle]

oh, a couple things.

the caster set for the baker scaffold is pretty substantial. it is also  inexpensive relative to buying 4 of that size locking caster independently. for $40 US (+tax) you can get the set of 4. they are heavy duty enough to use on many welding/cutting tables.  i have an outdoor table that is topped with layered 4'x6' plywood. underneath it slides the cutting table. this makes the cutting table a bit low but i find that works as an advantage when you are making a long flame or plasma cut as it makes it a bit easier to reach all the way forward up the table. the only (slight) problem is that the casters are not hooded and slag can deposit on them. i have to sheet metal out a set of hoods for the casters. its on the list.

i have always had something of a problem with letting stuff pile up on any horizontal surface (too many projects running at once.) its a problem and i have to go all marie kondo on my ass at some point.

[john fish]

These are awesome ideas.  Thank you all so much. 
A couple responses to comments- my workbenches always turn into horizontal storage areas. too.  I have promised myself that this one will actually be used as a workbench.  And that's your guffaw of the day.

My beer fridge is in the garage next to the workshop.  :)

LesP and Chuck-- awesome benches.

Love the swivel lamps, moto.

HarryH- Freaking wow!  Why torsion box workbenches.  Other than it looks awesome.  I definitely don't have the skill to make something like that.

Groover_  I was just thinking I'd get one of those mats.



I didn't work on it today-- it's one of those miserable muggy days here in Pennsylvania and I hate working with sweat dripping down my nose.  I think I will keep the middle of the bench wood, with a softer section on one end and a harder metal surface on the other end. 

Brilliant advice here to be prepared to change it as needed.  If I have to change it, I will.  I did cross brace it substantially and have some 2" by 10" supports in the middle of the long span.  This one is tied into the structure but the next project will be a bench on wheels for the garage.

Please keep the suggestions coming and I'm sorry I couldn't respond to everyone. 

[berniebee]

Lighting is #1. Save some money, move your fluorescent lamps so that you have two directly over the bench. Good placement is critical. Two feet out from the back wall is about right, up against the ceiling. That way they won't be in your eyes, but your head won't cast a shadow on the bench.

Plenty of electrical outlets is #2. I have only a single duplex outlet over my 8 foot bench and it has a six-into two adapter plugged in and it's crowded! Plugged in right now is a Stereo receiver, charger for the MP3 player, another charger for my phone, and a grinder. Do you have a cordless drill charging station? Motorcycle battery charger? Compressor? Do you use a dremel?  Electric impact driver? Soldering gun? Not all at the same of course, but lot's of stuff stays plugged in.

A metal top is great, but can be pricey. You can get Arborite laminate for really cheap if you don't mind an odd colour for a discounted price. It's pretty durable and you can repair dents with epoxy.  BTW, Its best to double the plywood top, even with 3/4" ply. Glued and screwed together with staggered joints, it's super strong and you'll never worry about hammering through it.

I have a total of seven short-but-wide drawers right under the bench. I highly recommend them.  Four made from scratch and a stack of three scavenged from an office work desk. Great for propane soldering torches, cordless drills, impact drivers OBDII readers, multimeters, and other smaller tools. I set up the drawers so that my shop vac and compressor would fit neatly under them.  I also made up a fairly large wooden, open top box on four fixed direction caster wheels to hold a pile of extension cords. It rolls out from underneath the bench just like a drawer.

You mentioned a wood vise, but for general purposes, a 4" or larger metal bench vise is more useful. You can buy plastic jaws (with magnets) and make wooden ones. You might consider making your bench just 8 feet long so that you have an open corner to place the vise. It's much more versatile that way and you wont miss the extra length. I built my 8' bench at the back of my 14' foot wide garage. I use the space next to the end of the bench to park my rolling table saw and a rolling, folding chop saw stand.