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Maybe our skeptic should run a vehicle on straight alcohol. Then we'll see if he remains a skeptic.
I'll pose my "usual" question: is it the ethanol that's causing the problems, or a different mix of additives used because ethanol is in the fuel? I believe it more the latter than the former: a toxic swill of additives is really responsible for most of the issues folks blame on ethanol.That said, I would rather not have ethanol in my fuel, but have had zero problems running it in any of my vehicles or equipment. <shrug>
....I am living in West Washington State, where are the good places to get ethanol free gas?... Thanks for the help.
As I said you should run a vehicle on E100 for a while.
Fuel tank swelling is due to the ethanol in American fuel (Ducati, Guzzi, others), and it's also responsible for accelerated corrosion of zinc, aluminum, and certain organic (rubber, etc) parts. This is worsened by ethanol's hydroscopic tendancy to pull water from the atmosphere, and to decompose.I can cite numerous academic papers, for example: http://papers.sae.org/971648/
My intend for this was find enthnal free gas and fill it up for off season storage
Yep, but, I suspect you'd have that problem with non-alcohol fuels as well. If you let the fuel in a cab bowl evaporate then it will leave nasty varnish deposits. E10 means that 10% of the fuel will evaporate faster.
That paper is about corrosion. Can you cite one about tank swelling, and in particular the role of water that is "pulled" from the atmosphere by ethanol? Does water permeate the plastic, causing it to expand?Moto
I have a VII Sport with Nylon tank, the tank has expanded to the point the forks hit it at full lock.It's just about impossible to get the rear bolt in place because it's grown in length.
Those nylon tanks do seem to have been an unmitigated disaster. Are we sure the swelling is caused by the ethanol? For several years, MBTE was used as an octane-boosting additive. That nasty stuff is an ether, more aggressive than ethanol. Could that be the culprit?
No mainstream company (Shell, Chevron, et al) can be relied on to produce ethanol-free gas unless it is specifically labeled as being ethanol-free. The claim that their premium grades are ethanol-free is a modern myth, since the base stock is the same as their other grades and the additives control the final octane ratings. That being said, some mainstream stations do offer ethanol-free fuel - but it has to have a separate pump and nozzle, and a separate storage tank, making it a costly proposition for that station. Many modern pumps are 'blending' pumps, with two tanks (regular and premium) and the mid-grade(s) being created by drawing a mix from the two tanks together. Ethanol-free just can't be delivered in that scenario.Another site to check is http://www.buyrealgas.com/index.html . I would say if a location shows on both sites, and shows signs of traffic, it's likely worth a try.
We pay more per gallon for ethanol free gas but we also get 10-12% better gas mileage vs the corn-gas. Due to the better gas mileage, the total cost for miles driven is almost exactly the same between the two. We can find ethanol free at four stations that are within five miles of our home so for the last few years, that's all we use. When we first moved to SC from San Diego, eleven years ago, I bought a new, zero cut lawn mower and several Stihl two stroke power lawn tools. We used E10 (not knowing any better) and within six months, every one of the lawn tools (including the mower) had problems with their carburetors. That's when we discovered non ethanol and have never had another problem with any of our lawn equipment.
I struggle with this. Can't see the10-12% better mileage. If alcohol had zero energy and the gas has 10% alcohol, then I could see a 10% increase in fuel mileage but since alcohol has about 80-90% the energy of gasoline it seems the maximum increase in mileage would have to be closer to 2%. Unless I am missing something. JB
....To me, there's absolutely no reason to put E10 in your vehicle if non ethanol is available. The stuff has no value other than political payback (which is how it got mandated by the clowns in DC to be forced down people's throats as a certain percentage of all gasoline produced for sale in the USA)
While I agree with the sentiment, there IS a reason to use E10: Even if E0 gives 10% higher mileage, it's economically disadvantageous if it costs more than 10% more than E10 (of course, assuming that E10 doesn't cause other problems, like in my case, with a steel tank and modern rubber parts in the engine).
We've had a couple of posts in the last few days that seem to indicate it is water infiltrating the plastic of the tank, causing it to swell, with the ethanol playing a facilitating role by attracting water to the gas. I believe this is probably true, but I'm asking for citations of authoritative sources so I can read more about it. Sign216 said he/she could cite "numerous academic papers."I am not disputing the account. Just curious to learn more.Moto
Moto,Here are three sources regarding ethanol's affinity for water.https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwj8gpbplMzNAhVHkh4KHYemCIIQFggeMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fnationalpetroleum.net%2FEthanol-Water-Phase-Separation-facts.pdf&usg=AFQjCNG_GuHo-Qz_xec4KmP-Vb5zpaMLWA&sig2=QRH_VrVH-yUK-dKKqlIhcA&cad=rjahttp://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/ethanol.htmlhttp://www.lcbamarketing.com/phase_separation_in_ethanol_blen.htm
Actually, the ethanol attracts water which in turn is absorbed by the nylon tank, causing the tank to swell. Left unchecked, the tank can swell and break on its mountings. MG was not the only marque seduced into using nylon tanks to create swervy lines. Reportedly no problem with pure gasoline, which is becoming increasingly difficult to find.