V7 plug cap swap, revisited.

[jpv7]

Funny - I checked my plug gap during the first service and guess what...they were gapped at 0.9 mm from the factory.  Lol

[sib]

Funny - I checked my plug gap during the first service and guess what...they were gapped at 0.9 mm from the factory.  Lol

It's possible that the manuals haven't been updated since they switched from the different plugs used in the earlier 2-TB models.  This wouldn't be the first instance of lagging manual updates.

[MorenoB]

Yep, and you'll have to also change the plugs from CPR8EB-9 to CPR8EA-9.

Another thing to consider is that for both plugs, the "-9" indicates that they come pre-gapped at 0.9 mm. Although the Moto Guzzi owner's and service manuals state that the spark gaps should be 0.6-0.7 mm, I have found that 0.9 mm works better, on both my previous '13 V7 Stone and my current '16 V7II Stone.

Hi Yep, thanks for your reply!

I've already changed my "initial" spark plugs with the Denso Iridium Power IU-24, they already have the gap at 0.9 mm and they work fine! They have also a removable terminal shape, so it should be ok with the NGG new spark plug cap

[SmithSwede]

I hereby officially retract my previous post in this thread.   I had recognized the snug fit of the rubber cover boot, had one get stuck down the hole, and so I foolishly advised against using the cap. 

I now know that's a mistake which cost me a huge amount of grief in a Galveston "frog drowner" rainstorm.

The modern spark plug wire leads directly to the cap and thus will direct rain water into the cap, shorting it out.   There is no "loop" in the wire that creates a low point for water drainage as with previous small blocks.

So you really do want the protective boot, even if it's a snug and worrisome fit.   

Indeed, I think you *also* need to put silicone sealant goop on the spark plug wire and the screw it back into the cap---that's another layer of defense.    Just keep the dang moisture out of that system !!!

[sib]

I have some questions for iridium plug users.  If you chose these because you want them to last a long time, don't you still have to remove them every time you adjust the valves?  Eventually, the metal gaskets will flatten and you'll have to replace them.  Are they even available separately?  How hard is it to remove a flattened gasket from a spark plug and put on a new one?  Thanks, just curious.

[MorenoB]

I have some questions for iridium plug users.  If you chose these because you want them to last a long time, don't you still have to remove them every time you adjust the valves?  Eventually, the metal gaskets will flatten and you'll have to replace them.  Are they even available separately?  How hard is it to remove a flattened gasket from a spark plug and put on a new one?  Thanks, just curious.

Hi Sib, I got the point but I' don't know how to answer...Simply because I use iridium spark plugs just for a performance (and not for long lasting..) purpose, and so I usually replace them every time I adjust the valves....Yes, I'm crazy ;-)

[sib]

Hi Sib, I got the point but I' don't know how to answer...Simply because I use iridium spark plugs just for a performance (and not for long lasting..) purpose, and so I usually replace them every time I adjust the valves....Yes, I'm crazy ;-)

You're not as crazy as someone would have been a few years ago.  My 2004 Prius uses iridium plugs, and a set of 4 back then cost more than $100.  I recently checked the price of the Denso IU24 plugs on Amazon, and they're actually pretty cheap, about $7.50/plug, inexpensive enough to use if you get a performance boost from them.

[organfixsing]

Before I replaced the plug caps on my V7II, the plugs were sooty. Having replaced the plug caps with NGK WD05F -R the plugs have been running pretty clean. Were the OEM plug caps misfiring? I didn't detect that while riding. Perhaps a bit of a mystery.
Cheers
Brian C 

[sib]

Before I replaced the plug caps on my V7II, the plugs were sooty. Having replaced the plug caps with NGK WD05F -R the plugs have been running pretty clean. Were the OEM plug caps misfiring? I didn't detect that while riding. Perhaps a bit of a mystery.
Cheers
Brian C 

Curious about why you selected the red caps (signified by the "-R" suffix) instead of the black ones.  Hotter spark? 

[Kiwi Dave]

I'd be tempted to try a little rubber lubricant -castor oil is my favourite.  Will make removing them easier too.

[malik]

Curious about why you selected the red caps (signified by the "-R" suffix) instead of the black ones.  Hotter spark? 

Prefers to hide his light under a bushel? I chose the red caps too - they're prettier than the black, even though they can only be seen when the cover comes off.

[jpv7]

Just updated my V7ii Special with the XD05FP boot and CPR8EA-9.  Cheap and readily available... 

Not sure about the V7, but on the V7ii, the end of the wire that screws out of the boot has a crimped on, male threaded terminal.  I snipped that off, and screwed the new one on.  No issue with wire length.

Also no issues with fitment, or the rubber boots.  The bike runs great.  Left the plug gap at 0.9mm.

[sib]

Thanks for the info about the crimp-on end.  I'll eventually get around to installing XD05FP caps, but not until the OEM ones start acting up.  So far, ~15,500 mi on my '16 Stone, no spark issues at all, but I avoid riding in the rain.

[jpv7]

I wasn't having any issues on mine - only 8000 km on the clock.  But heading down to Staunton, Virginia for a 5 day ride in the area (about 3000km), so doing some preventative work.  I did the all-metal fuel filter also, although the jury is out on that one.  I guess it depends more on where you live, and the gas available there.  In any case, it's one less thing to worry about.

And yes, the tank rubber bumper guides were not very tight, so fixed that also.

[sib]

I wasn't having any issues on mine - only 8000 km on the clock.  But heading down to Staunton, Virginia for a 5 day ride in the area (about 3000km), so doing some preventative work.  I did the all-metal fuel filter also, although the jury is out on that one.  I guess it depends more on where you live, and the gas available there.  In any case, it's one less thing to worry about.

And yes, the tank rubber bumper guides were not very tight, so fixed that also.

My rubber tank holders/guides were also loose, which I fixed with proper tightening and Loctite.  I did the all-metal fuel filter on my previous '13 Stone, like you because it would be one less thing to worry about.  Back then, there were a few reports of problems with the metal/plastic filters, but I haven't heard of any problems recently.  Perhaps there was a batch of defective filters, and the problem has since been solved.  I found the all metal filter to be real bitch to get back into the tank, and in the end I could only do it if I left off the zip tie that held the filter body onto the pump.  So, I had a new problem to worry about, the filter knocking around in there and maybe working loose of its hoses.  However, nothing like that happened until I sold the bike at 12,000 mi.

[organfixsing]

Sib. No reason for selecting the red caps other than that was what was available on eBay.
Cheers
Brian   

[gerryp]

using the search function on this issue the consensus opinion appears to be to swap to CPRAEA-9 plugs and XD05FP boots.

I didn't see any suggestions for plug wires to replace the stock ones on the V7'.. Are there any?

Gerry
 

[malik]

Or the CR9EK plugs (factory gaps) with the XD05F caps my V7S seems quite happy with for the last 80,000 km.

Copper core wire is recommended.

[gerryp]

Or the CR9EK plugs (factory gaps) with the XD05F caps my V7S seems quite happy with for the last 80,000 km.

Copper core wire is recommended.

Thanks.  Actually i'm looking for a better quality set of wires vs the stock ones.

[malik]

NGK Racing have HT cable & caps in a pretty shade of red.  Check them out in their Racing section.

[gerryp]

NW
NGK Racing have HT cable & caps in a pretty shade of red.  Check them out in their Racing section.

 I was up at the shop today and we got ol' red back up and running.  New plugs - CPR8EA-9'S, boots - XD05FP & new wires made up at the shop.  ECU reflashed with latest Guzzi map for 2015 V7.  Unfortunately I lost the guzzitech map but at least the ECU did not need to be replaced and the bike runs.  I'll have her back home tomorrow.

Gerry

[Wisconsinv7racer]

Did you ask them to update the map to a crappy factory one? I would be pissed if they did that and I lost the Guzzitech one.

[kingoffleece]

Jim and I spoke about that when Jerry had his issue while we were in VT.
I don't recon anything can be done except ask Todd for some courtesy regarding Jerry's map.  His ECU got wiped out.

[gerryp]

Did you ask them to update the map to a crappy factory one? I would be pissed if they did that and I lost the Guzzitech one.

I just got home from picking up my bike.  The latest factory map was loaded which is a HELL of a lot better than the original one.

It was not the dealers fault the ecu got wiped, plus I did not have to replace the whole unit with a new ecu.

KOF and I both had our ECU's re-flashed way before Todd's new map tool was available'


Plus Hamlin had a V9 trucked up to VT for me to ride and the V7 taken back to his shop.  I have no reason to be "pissed" about losing the guzzitech map.

Gerry

[kingoffleece]

Hamlin takes fantastic care of us when needed.
I feel for those who don't have a shop like his.

I don't ride 400 miles for nothing!

[TimmyTheHog]

Hamlin takes fantastic care of us when needed.
I feel for those who don't have a shop like his.

I don't ride 400 miles for nothing!

Actually sometimes I do want to ride 400 miles for nothing...but that is a different story...LOL..

Good that you have a good supporting shop!

[Kiwi Dave]

KOF and I both had our ECU's re-flashed way before Todd's new map tool was available. 

I have no reason to be "pissed" about losing the guzzitech map.

Perhaps you should had backed up the map using Guzzidiag.  Not for distributing to others, but only for the situation that you have just encountered.

[gerryp]

Perhaps you should had backed up the map using Guzzidiag.  Not for distributing to others, but only for the situation that you have just encountered.

bite me.

[mr_pacman]

Bumping this old thread with a few questions.

The CPR8EA-9 plug ends are threaded. The XD05F caps don't appear to have a threaded brass insert. Is this correct, the spark plug cap just pushes onto the threaded portion of the sparkplug?

When you upgrade the caps and plugs, is it worth swapping out the wires and the other ends of the plug wires that fit up under the fuel tank? If so, what are you using for new wires and the other ends of the wires?

Thanks
James

[TimmyTheHog]

XD05F cap accepts Threaded Stud





This is CPR8EA-9 which has thread stud




XD05F cap will just snap on to the CPR8EA-9

You will feel that click. It is quite subtle tho but def its there.

CPR8EB-9 is the stock plug which has a solid terminal




I didn't swap out the wire. Some people did but mostly from what I know are just purely cosmetics.

Hopefully these helps.