new 1998 V11 EV owner

[AaronH]

Hello everyone.  I originally came here when I was looking at V7s and the 1400 Eldorado, but ended up buying a 1998 V11 EV as my first Guzzi, with about 26,800 miles.  It needs some work, but it was priced vary fairly and has good maintenance records since it is a one-owner motorcycle.  It had variable idle from rough to stalling and a bad stumble from about 3500 rpm on, but even with the stumble, I really liked riding it, so I bought it.  I don't think anything major is wrong and I figured fixing it will be a good learning experience.   

First, I checked and fixed any cracked vacuum lines I could find.  The intake boots are cracked and I've ordered replacements for both sides, but I'm still waiting on the ones closest to the cylinder head to arrive.  I checked the valves and set them at .004" intake and .006" exhaust, although they weren't far off to start with.  To reduce future electrical system frustration, I applied Caig DeOxit to the relays and installed a new battery.  For the stumble, I replaced the air temperature sensor, TPS, and have run two containers of injection cleaner through the tank.  The TPS made the largest improvement.  I bought the PF3C from CA Cycleworks for about $90, which was much better then the almost $400 OEM part, and set it at 150mv with the left TB completely closed IAW the Guzzi manual and BradTheBikerBoy's write up.  Intake boots for both ends of the TBs are on the way.  Once I have both sets, I will remove the tank and replace the air filter, fuel filter, install the intake boots, and look for any other possible vacuum leaks.  I changed the oil (no fiilter change yet) with Mobil1 20W50, but have ordered Agip 10W60 to use when I change the oil filter.

The stumble is almost completely gone and the engine idles very nicely now at about 1000-1100 rpm, but there is still a slight stumble from about 4000-5000 rpm under throttle openings of about 60% or more.  By the mid-5k range, it is running normally again and pulls very nicely from that point on, and the motorcycle will cruise smoothly up to 80, which is the fastest I've gone with it.  If throttle openings are less than 50%, the engine is smooth all the way through 6,000 rpm.  I've been digging around here and elsewhere, and it sounds like it might be a fuel pressure regulator issue based on the bad mileage (20 mpg before the tps and plugs, high 20's after plugs and TPS) and smell of fuel after shutting the engine off.  I've ordered a PC connector so I can check everything more throughly with guzzidiag, and I am hoping elimination of any vacuum leaks will eliminate the majority of the remaining stumble.  I also want to check the coils.

This weekend I plan to change the final drive and transmission oil and flush the brake system.

Even with a few problems, I really like riding this thing.  The feel, sound and handling are great, and I am amazed how affordable these motorcycles are right now.   

Once I replace the mirrors and turn signals and do some more polishing, I'll post some before and after photos.

As I do more I will post it here, and if anyone has any advice, it will be greatly appreciated.   

[pat80flh]

Congratulations and welcome, these are great street motorcycles IMO, sounds like you're having fun and you have a handle on everything.

   I don't measure fuel economy on anything I drive, and the Bassa has neither a working low fuel light or trip odometer. I try to fill up every 100 miles, and usually take 2.6 to 2.9 gallons, so you're not far off it sounds like.  I have thought about trying to attack the fuel economy, but it just runs too well to screw with.

[john fish]

Sounds like you're doing a great refurbishment.  I get about 40 mpg with my Jackal.

Did you pack the head temp sensor with copper anti-sieze?  Other than that, you might consider putting speed bleed nipples on the brakes.  Hopefully, someone else has a link for you.  Replace the electric petcock with a manual one?

Oh, and I set my valves at .006 and .008, I believe. 

edited 'cause I need more coffee.

[Mackers]

I had the smell of fuel on my '02 EV which eventually turned out to be a leaking hose.  The clamps holding the hose fittings to the fuel filter had, over time, cut through the hose.  Fuel was dripping onto the engine.  The hose had softened with age.  Snipped off the ends and replaced the fittings and all good.  But I really need to replace the hoses.

[fotoguzzi]

Did you pack the head temp sensor with copper anti-sieze?   

98 EV has a wonky temp sensor in the rocker cover, not in the head so don't pack anything there.

[john fish]

 

98 EV has a wonky temp sensor in the rocker cover, not in the head so don't pack anything there.

Thanks!

[pehayes]

That fuel mileage is ridiculously low.  You should easily get 40, even with crappy California gas.  Something is telling the computer that your engine is cold or the air is very cold.  Find and test those sensors.

Otherwise, the engine is normal but you are losing liquid fuel somewhere.  The most likely place for direct fuel leakage would be the three short pieces of hose which connect from the fuel regulator through the "Y" splitter, to the two fuel injectors.  Those hoses are notorious for leakage.  Change them out to some quality fuel hose with specialized injection clamps.  I use this:
http://www.guzzipower.com/FI-HoseReplace-Pat_H.html

I would suggest that you finish all of your work with a little visit to Sean Fader at RTL moto in Santa Ana at:
https://www.yelp.com/biz/rtl-moto-santa-ana

Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA

[normzone]

I would suggest that you finish all of your work with a little visit to Sean Fader at RTL moto in Santa Ana at:
https://www.yelp.com/biz/rtl-moto-santa-ana Patrick Hayes Fremont CA

I second that, Sean made my Bassa a much happier machine. He's now working out of OC Motorcycles in Costa Mesa.

[Guzzi Gal]

You're in the right place.  Congratulations, and enjoy!

[decotriumph]

Congratulations! Those are excellent motorcycles.

[Lee Bruns]

On the bell housing, under the right side throttle body, look for the flywheel position sensor. Take out the two screws and clean that sensor. It gets covered in clutch dust and acts all weird.

[Kiwi_Roy]

My 98 had resistor leads and also resistor caps
Unscrew a cap and look for proper wire.

From memory measuring from the cap to chases should be ~8K Ohm on each side.
Yes at least 40 mpg once you get it sorted.

[Tom H]

Congrats!

I little work and you'll be good!!

Tom

[AaronH]

Thank you for the advice and encouragement!

I replaced the plug caps with NGK LB05F caps if I remember correctly, but I will check them.  The new plug wires are regular copper core.  Last week I cleaned off the crank position sensor.  The new temp sensor is within the proper resistance values, so that is one less thing to cause an issue. 

Tonight I removed the fuel tank to make replacing the intake rubbers easier,  and I found a bunch of seeds on top of a really dirty air filter that looks to be an old K&N, so something made a home in the top of the airbox at one time.  The intake rubber on the left head that mounts on the intake was dry rotted with a big split all the way through. 

Also, the braided fuel line from the pump to the tank had bad dry rot, so I found an NOS one on ebay and am waiting for it to arrive.  It had already been trimmed once, so there wasn't much left to work with.  Also ordered a new fuel pressure regulator, and will check the breather hose tomorrow.  I really don't want to remove the tank again anytime soon,  so I am trying to replace anything that is easily accessible with the tank off that isn't too expensive and could relate to the stumble.  With the seeds on top of the air cleaner, I am surprised how well it still runs.  There were enough to fill probably 50% of the filter pleats.

By the time the parts are in and it is back together it will probably be early next week.  Then I will sync the throttle bodies, and hopefully the fuel system will be where it needs to in order to be safe and reliable. 

Patrick, thank you for the fuel hose link.  I didnt see your reply until after I had already bought the big hose from tank to pump, but I will use the link you provided to source the y hose parts.  I will take a look at the RTL moto site as soon as I post this reply. 

The h-pipe appears to have small cracks so I will get that welded soon.  I wanted to ride it to work the rest of the week, but I think this down time will be beneficial, and had I known about the seeds and extent of the intake rubber split, I wouldn't have been riding it.  Even in it's current state, it is a lot of fun. 

Thank you to.everyone again for the advice. 

[AaronH]

Since my original post, the engine began stumbling again under load and was still getting mileage in the low 20 mpg range.  I already had a new fuel filter that I hadn't installed, but figured the most likely culprit was the fuel pressure regulator.  Multiple posts here had mentioned the strainer at the petcock could also be blocked up.

To eliminate as many likely variables in the fuel system as possible, I decided to replace the petcock/strainer, main fuel line, fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator.  The oem fuel press. regulator is no longer available.  I thought I could adapt the later external style regulator from a 99-02 1100, but that turned into a hassle with parts availability.  A post on this site said a PR-159 regulator would work, and overall, that is the simplest and cheapest solution.  Prior to looking at the fuel system, I replaced all four intake rubbers and balanced the throttle bodies.  One of the boots had a split over an inch long behind a clamp.  I also removed the charcoal canisters which were blocked up and had about 5 feet of vacuum line that could infroduce vacuum leaks. 

After installing the new fuel system parts, the stumble was completely gone and the engine pulled very nicely.   The only remaining running problem was a slight low rpm bog or backfire just off idle.  It wasn't a cold running issue; something seemed off from an ignition or valve timing standpoint, because under light throttle and load, the engine would backfire very lightly through the intake.  I rechecked the valve clearances, which were good. 

I had replaced the TPS previously and set it initially with a voltmeter,  but reset it with guzzidiag once I got the proper cable.  The setting on guzzidiag was either 1.37 or 1.57mv, with no increments in between.  My voltmeter said the tps was baselined at .56mv, so I reset it to 149.6mv which is as close as I could get it to 150mv.  Now that the TPS is back where it should be, the bog and backfire are completely gone and the engine runs really nicely.  Gas mileage is up in the low 40s as well.

The last common item people seem to need to replace when they get an EV are relays, so I replaced all 6 with GEI relays.  I had no electrical problems, but the relays are cheap preventative items. 

Next I am going to focus on brakes and suspension, which basically just need routine and cosmetic maintenance.  Overall the motorcycle handles and stops very well.

The more I work on and ride this motorcycle, the more I like it.  Since getting the EV, I've ridden it over 1,000 miles, even in a less than perfect mechanical state.  If this project keeps progressing as it has, I hope get to meet some of you at the San Diego Guzzi rally. 

[guzzisteve]

I think you got the Guzzi bug.

[rodekyll]

How many miles are on the engine?  That sputtering under "light" throttle and overrun could indicate a worn timing chain or tensioner.

[Muzz]

I think you got the Guzzi bug.

I don't think there is a cure for it either.

[JoeB]

FWIW:  some bookmarks I have used for my 98.
http://www.armory.com/~marina/service.html
http://archive.guzzitech.com
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi.html
http://dpguzzi.com

[fotoguzzi]

you seem to have solved the running issues.. I'll just note there is a fuel trim dial on the computer box. this trim dial can turn about 2-3 revolutions if you do adjust it try 1/2 turn either way then run for at least 10 minutes for CPU to set itself.
I think there are some directions in the Guzzi FI supplement (see thisoldtractor.com for the manual)

[John A]

At some point you'll want to replace the "S" shaped hose for the breather while the tank is off. Best to use a Guzzi part there, no suitable substitute .http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/28157450.jpg

[Tom H]

For the breather hose I used 2 90deg plastic heater hose elbows and heater hose. I have only replaced so far the elbow section at the engine, still need to do the section under the tank. So far it works fine and looks decent. Not as cheap as I had hoped, but when the hose sections need replacing, the hose is cheap.

BTW this was on a '04, you may have the cheaper stock hose, my stock hose would have been about $30 or something like that.

Congrats again! Almost there!
Tom

[Edgo897]

Enjoying this thread. I too just picked up a 98 V11 EV. It runs great but I don't think it was well maintained. So I'm going through everything now. I have a question, can the brake line that screws into the calipers be replaced with a banjo bolts set up? I want to get Stainless steel lines and possible go with a true double disk front brake. The little unit under the left swingarm that activates the rear brake with the front let is rusted beyond use. I don't think it is functioning.

Thanks,
Ed

[troyhamilton]

my 850-t has a ! ev1100 motor. i love the motor and i wish id had more  money or id not missed out on last summers riding!

[rodekyll]

Enjoying this thread. I too just picked up a 98 V11 EV. It runs great but I don't think it was well maintained. So I'm going through everything now. I have a question, can the brake line that screws into the calipers be replaced with a banjo bolts set up? I want to get Stainless steel lines and possible go with a true double disk front brake. The little unit under the left swingarm that activates the rear brake with the front let is rusted beyond use. I don't think it is functioning.

Thanks,
Ed

Welcome!

Yes, you can use banjos/bolts instead of the direct screw-in fitting.  Standard 10mm brake stuff.

That thingy under the swing arm isn't the proportioning valve.  The proportioning valve should be near the left shock/left sidecover area.  Follow the line in that direction and you'll find it.  What you're looking at is the "jack valve".  This trims rear brake when it senses the swing arm jacking upwards.  Don't mess with the valve.  That spring and plunger stuff is calibrated at the factory.  Messing with it will change its operation, possibly in a negative manner, if you know what I mean.  If the lever is moving and the rear brake works, you can assume the valve is also working.

[Steph]

Congratulations, great choice!
Personally, I think the various Californias series bikes between '98-02 were the best Guzzi ever. Real workhorses, exotics that can be run a shoestring too. In 20 years from now they'll be worth more than a Ducati bevel desmo 

[fotoguzzi]

Welcome!

Yes, you can use banjos/bolts instead of the direct screw-in fitting.  Standard 10mm brake stuff.

That thingy under the swing arm isn't the proportioning valve.  The proportioning valve should be near the left shock/left sidecover area.  Follow the line in that direction and you'll find it.  What you're looking at is the "jack valve".  This trims rear brake when it senses the swing arm jacking upwards.  Don't mess with the valve.  That spring and plunger stuff is calibrated at the factory.  Messing with it will change its operation, possibly in a negative manner, if you know what I mean.  If the lever is moving and the rear brake works, you can assume the valve is also working.

if yours is not working I "might" have one you can have for free.

[Edgo897]

if yours is not working I "might" have one you can have for free.

The thing is so rusty that I can't see it being functional. The little rod is rusted away. If you have a spare I could use it. Thanks

[AaronH]

How many miles are on the engine?  That sputtering under "light" throttle and overrun could indicate a worn timing chain or tensioner.

It just turned 28,000 miles.  I wouldn't normally have faith in that number given the tendency for speedometer failure in this generation of Californias, but I bought it from the original owner and he had decent maintenance records with no unexplainable gaps in time/mileage.  For now, the sputtering issue is gone and fueling is very smooth, but I will keep the worn tensioner or chain in mind next time it exhibits low-speed erratic behavior.  Is there any nylon in/on the cam or crank gears?  I have had several 425/472/500 engined Cadillacs with nylon-lined factory cam gear teeth, and when that lining breaks down, it can jump time and block the sump, not to mention cause various running problems.  I didn't know the 1100 had a cam chain tensioner; I want to learn more about that.

FWIW:  some bookmarks I have used for my 98.
http://www.armory.com/~marina/service.html
http://archive.guzzitech.com
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi.html
http://dpguzzi.com

Thank you for the links.  I will save them to my favorites and go through them. 

Enjoying this thread. I too just picked up a 98 V11 EV. It runs great but I don't think it was well maintained. So I'm going through everything now. I have a question, can the brake line that screws into the calipers be replaced with a banjo bolts set up? I want to get Stainless steel lines and possible go with a true double disk front brake. The little unit under the left swingarm that activates the rear brake with the front let is rusted beyond use. I don't think it is functioning.

Thanks,
Ed

What color/mileage is yours?  I've considered "delinking" the brakes, but mine work well right now so I've left them alone.  My left rotor is slightly warped, so using the brake pedal gives an annoying pulsation.  I found a couple good used rotors, so when I have the front apart, I'll replace it.  The right rotor is good, so there is no pulsing with the brake lever.  I'd also like to do braided lines eventually. 

At some point you'll want to replace the "S" shaped hose for the breather while the tank is off. Best to use a Guzzi part there, no suitable substitute .http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/28157450.jpg

You are right; I already had to replace the breather hose.  It had about 20-30 small cracks, and really let me know when I had overfilled the crankase by I'm guessing 1/4 to 1/2 of a quart.  Now that I've replaced the hose, there are no more leaks that I can see. 

you seem to have solved the running issues.. I'll just note there is a fuel trim dial on the computer box. this trim dial can turn about 2-3 revolutions if you do adjust it try 1/2 turn either way then run for at least 10 minutes for CPU to set itself.
I think there are some directions in the Guzzi FI supplement (see thisoldtractor.com for the manual)

I've considered adjusting the fuel trim and may in the future, but for now have decided to leave it alone.  Thank you for letting me know about the 10 minute set time.  I haven't read that before, and not having that piece of information would make adjustment very frustrating. 

Congratulations, great choice!
Personally, I think the various Californias series bikes between '98-02 were the best Guzzi ever. Real workhorses, exotics that can be run a shoestring too. In 20 years from now they'll be worth more than a Ducati bevel desmo 

They are really underappreciated, but that's ok with me.  You are right about the shoestring budget part.  If anything seems expensive, like an OEM TPS or fuel pump, the aftermarket has affordable alternatives.  Although the factory fuel pressure regulator is no longer easy to find, I like the serviceability of the external pump fuel system as well as the rest of the motorcycle.  I wish my '08 KTM Super Duke R was as easy and affordable to work on.  Aside from the very good overall performance of the 1100 California, one of the things I like most is how easy periodic maintenance is. 

[Kiwi_Roy]

Don't forget to check the tank moat drain, if that plugs up it will send any rain or wash water into the tank to form rust.

Dribble some light oil in there once in a while, its a pigtail tube that extends out the bottom of the tank.