Author Topic: Valve adjust V7-III  (Read 16138 times)

pete roper

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Valve adjust V7-III
« on: October 16, 2018, 11:27:05 PM »
Cylinder head cover.



Remove screws holding on HT lead cover.





Then remove the cover. Suspenders-snappers will be overjoyed to know it's made of aluminium rather than plastic adding weight and cost to something that ideally should be made of plastic!

Pull off the plug cap and hang the HT lead out of the way. It sits in clips at the top of the head and needs to be popped out to be pulled out of the way.



Undo the three cap screws retaining the rocker cover and remove it.



Remove the spark plugs, (You'll have to remove all the HT lead dross from the other side to achieve this.). Now the best way to proceed is to tie down the front of the bike and jack it up under the sump to get the back wheel off the ground. Once you can turn the wheel stick the bike in top gear and pull the engine over with the rear wheel. Turn the wheel in the direction it rotates when going forwards and watch the inlet valve rocker. You'll see it open the valve and then close. The piston is now on the compression stroke. Pop your finger into the plug 'ole or use a drinking straw through the hole onto the crown of the piston and keep turning the wheel until the straw starts to descend again or air stops pushing past your finger. Jiggle the wheel back and forth until you are confident the straw is very, very close to its highest point, (Achieved when the piston is at TDC.). Note it doesn't have to be exact. A few degrees each way won't make a blind bit of difference. As long as the tappets are on the base circle of the cams it's all good.

Grab yer feeler gauges and adjust the valves by loosening the locknut on the adjuster and turning the adjuster until the gauge is a smooth sliding fit in the gap betwixt rocker and valve.



When you're happy re tighten the lock nut while preventing the adjuster from turning.

Repeat for other valve and then go round the other side of the bike and repeat the entire procedure for the other cylinder. Remember TDC on onecylinder is NOT TDC on the other. Treat each cylinder as a separate entity.

Once adjusted put the rocker covers back on, put the plugs in, reattach the HT leads and replace the lead covers.

Job done.

Note the obvious provision in both head casting and rocker carrier casting for a central spark plug. 4 valves are just around the corner. Why they aren't launching the V85 with the 4V engine is beyond me!





Pete

Offline Muzz

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2018, 12:03:39 AM »
I don't have one, but it basically covers them all. Beautifully done thanks Pete. :thumb:
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Offline Rick4003

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2018, 12:11:29 AM »
Nice write up Pete!

But the hole in the casting for the central sparkplug isn't actually in the center of the cylinder is it? Can it be a provision to make the v85 twin spark instead of four valve.

The hole looks to be the same center distance as the normal sparkplug if you look at the valve position.

-Ulrik

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pete roper

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2018, 12:39:20 AM »
It's not in the centre of the 2V combustion chamber, no.

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2018, 12:39:20 AM »

Offline Rick4003

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2018, 12:45:51 AM »
But a four valve combustion chamber should be on the same centre as the 2v shouldn't it?

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pete roper

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2018, 01:14:19 AM »
Depends what they do to the motor dunnit?

Pizza Guzzi

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2018, 01:19:55 AM »
Thanks Pete for an excellent tutorial.
Clearances 4 and 6 thou ?

Glenn
« Last Edit: October 17, 2018, 01:25:09 AM by Pizza Guzzi »

pete roper

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2018, 03:33:31 AM »
Never found the need for anything else in the last thirty years.........

Offline greer

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2018, 04:26:05 AM »
Thanks for the nice and easy step-by-step, Pete!

Sarah
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Offline mechanicsavant

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2018, 10:59:20 AM »
Well done.question? Has anyone verifyed it as a true "hemi" head. Seeing the success GM (Holden) has gotten w/ thier 2 valve heads a well engineered two valve head may (from a financial & engineering ) point adequate. Just wondering?

Offline Rhodan

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2018, 02:05:55 PM »
Thanks Pete for an excellent tutorial.
  Ditto!

Offline TimmyTheHog

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2018, 03:02:14 PM »
Thank you sir!

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Joe A.

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2018, 04:15:59 PM »
Mucho  Appreciado :bow:

Offline PMDMN

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #13 on: October 17, 2018, 04:34:38 PM »
Very nice.  Thanks.

Offline M0T0Geezer

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #14 on: October 17, 2018, 06:22:05 PM »
Well spoken pete:
"Remember TDC on onecylinder is NOT TDC on the other. Treat each cylinder as a separate entity."

And, now for those analistic literalists like me who want to be sure everyone also understands that it is only the Compression Top Dead Center that should be used for valve-clearance adjustments. 

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Offline DaSwami

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #15 on: October 17, 2018, 09:22:50 PM »
Pete,

Awesome, man.  Can you tell us the size of the box end wrench used to loosen and tighten the locknut and what is the best tool for the adjusting screw. 

And I'm guessing the right piston position is right after the intake valve closes, and you can measure the lash on both intake and exhaust at the same time.  If you wait until right after the exhaust valve closes that is incorrect?

Thanks!

Offline notbent

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #16 on: October 17, 2018, 10:05:04 PM »
Never found the need for anything else in the last thirty years.........

So would you use four and six thou on a LM5?

pete roper

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #17 on: October 17, 2018, 10:08:47 PM »
So would you use four and six thou on a LM5?

I use four and six on everything post roundfin. The roundfin I do at five and seven because they have a cast iron rocker carrier with a lower C of E.

Offline notbent

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #18 on: October 17, 2018, 11:28:16 PM »
Cheers for that.

Righteo then.

I'm adjusting.

Offline Kiwi Dave

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #19 on: October 18, 2018, 01:08:40 AM »
Can you tell us the size of the box end wrench used to loosen and tighten the locknut and what is the best tool for the adjusting screw. 

Most Guzzi rocker locknuts are 11mm (wot an odd size), and a small crescent spanner is what I normally use for the adjustment screw.  The secret is to keep the wrenches small, so there is more feel.

pete roper

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #20 on: October 18, 2018, 01:19:15 AM »
11mm for the spanner, anything for the adjuster. I use my fingers or a pair of pliers, this isn't an operation that requires enormous leverage or force. No doubt a string of 'Experts' will come boiling out of the woodwork and say this method isn't satisfactory. They are wrong, it's just fine. I would advise young people to wear gloves because oil and stuff is nasty shit and it really is best to avoid getting it on yerself. I'm older than dirt and have been wallowing in carcinogens all my life so I'm buggered by now and can't be arsed with them but I still bark at youngsters if they don't take precautions because I'm a raging hypocrite! :evil:

Pete

Offline DaSwami

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #21 on: October 18, 2018, 05:47:27 AM »
OK, last question, for adjusting the lash, lefty loosey righty tighty?
« Last Edit: October 18, 2018, 10:00:30 PM by DaSwami »

pete roper

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #22 on: October 18, 2018, 06:01:00 AM »
Standard thread.

Offline twowheeladdict

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #23 on: October 18, 2018, 06:57:02 AM »
 :thumb:   :boozing:
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Offline rdbandkab

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #24 on: October 18, 2018, 07:59:49 AM »
 :thumb:

Thanks Pete! 
« Last Edit: October 18, 2018, 08:00:26 AM by rdbandkab »

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #25 on: October 18, 2018, 08:36:11 AM »
Standard thread.

Uhhh, I DON'T THINK SO.....












































If THIS was a Standard WG Thread there'd be a hell of a lot more bitching, some politics, it would get locked, and maybe deleted, and 250 people who don't post regularly would email the admin to bitch about both sides of everything.  :boozing:
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Offline Rick4003

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #26 on: October 18, 2018, 08:48:50 AM »
Uhhh, I DON'T THINK SO.....












































If THIS was a Standard WG Thread there'd be a hell of a lot more bitching, some politics, it would get locked, and maybe deleted, and 250 people who don't post regularly would email the admin to bitch about both sides of everything.  :boozing:
Not that kind of standard thread, the kind of thread you put nuts on. Standard right hand thread [emoji16]

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Offline Rick4003

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #27 on: October 18, 2018, 08:54:02 AM »
Depends what they do to the motor dunnit?
Just to bring it back to the standard WG thread drift level [emoji16]

I agree it depends entirely on what they do to the motor, but changing the whole cylinder layout to being able to reuse one rocker carrier casing seems a bit of a stretch even for Guzzi.

I bet the casting was made in preparation for a second sparkplug, it fits with the location, keeping the 2 valve head and in line with what they have done on previous motors. Both two valve big block and the 1400.

So again, I don't think it has ever been intended as a center plug hole for a four valve head. It just doesn't match up with the proper location.

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #28 on: October 18, 2018, 09:15:42 AM »
Not that kind of standard thread, the kind of thread you put nuts on. Standard right hand thread [emoji16]

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Awwww hell yes, a whole lotta nuts too, we got standard nuts and loose nuts...
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Offline Socalrob

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Re: Valve adjust V7-III
« Reply #29 on: October 18, 2018, 10:37:59 AM »
11mm for the spanner, anything for the adjuster. I use my fingers or a pair of pliers, this isn't an operation that requires enormous leverage or force. No doubt a string of 'Experts' will come boiling out of the woodwork and say this method isn't satisfactory. They are wrong, it's just fine. I would advise young people to wear gloves because oil and stuff is nasty shit and it really is best to avoid getting it on yerself. I'm older than dirt and have been wallowing in carcinogens all my life so I'm buggered by now and can't be arsed with them but I still bark at youngsters if they don't take precautions because I'm a raging hypocrite! :evil:

Pete

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