Probably screwed up my bike

[Jim C]

Anyone want to buy an almost brand new V7 II?

I probably screwed  up the head re-torque, since I got tired and I
have NO idea which bolts I unscrewed after the top one. I tightened
one nut (wrench worked fine), and now I can't get the wrench to work.
I  probably over-tightened one of the nuts (lower right, I think) because
the wrench did not click. I'm afraid I might have over-tightened one or
two nuts.

Anyway, I knew I was in over my head. As it stands right now, all the
bolts/nuts are currently loose on the left side.

Jim

[guzzisteve]

Don't sweat it, stuff is strong. Start all over and see what happens. Besides it can be fixed.

[oldbike54]

 Take a couple of deep breaths Jim , you haven't destroyed your motorcycle . Loosen the tight bolts and start all over again , sounds like either your torque wrench is wonky , or you are simply freaked out . It will be OK , trust us 

 Dusty

[rodekyll]

As long as you caught it and stopped before starting and running the engine you should be fine.  Those head studs can take a lot of torque.

[Kiwi_Roy]

Tighten them gradually, just take up the slack first go round then set your wrench to about half the final setting and go round again.
Normally the heads are tightened in a pattern swapping from side to side.

[sign216]

I wrote a tutorial for the older V7, there should be a few tips for you.  Double click on the photos for the text.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548

[Tom H]

Take a couple of deep breaths Jim , you haven't destroyed your motorcycle . Loosen the tight bolts and start all over again , sounds like either your torque wrench is wonky , or you are simply freaked out . It will be OK , trust us 

 Dusty

All have great thoughts, but this quote above seems best.

If your torque wrench seems to have had an issue. Try your local auto parts store. Many rent tools like this. Then when ready, you can check yours, or buy a new one.

Good luck!!!!
Tom

[fotoguzzi]

Why did you do this to an" almost brand new V7 II?"

[tris]

A couple of thoughts in no particular order to the sage words above
Check that the torque wrench is set correctly on the correct units
Grip the drive from the torque wrench in a vice and pull it steadily until it clicks. This will give you a feel/listen what you've looking for.
Print Sign216s' picture of the studs off and write the cross cross tightening sequence on it. I tend to tighten one stud and leave the wrench in place while I look at the picture and point at the next stud to tighten before moving the wrench

[pete roper]

Why did you do this to an" almost brand new V7 II?"

Beacause re-torqueing the heads is part of the first service regime, failing to do so will lead to leaks.

[fotoguzzi]

Beacause re-torqueing the heads is part of the first service regime, failing to do so will lead to leaks.

OH,
note to self, you don't really want a Small Block..

[pete roper]

In theory the big blocks were the same when they used kingerlite gaskets. It was only when they went to the steel laminate gaskets that a re-torque became redundant.

For whatever reason since the mid eighties the big blocks haven't seemed to need it ex-factory. Perhaps they were over tightened? I dunno. But the smallblocks will tend to leak if the head nuts aren't given a tweak. Usually once is enough but my 'Racer' needed another touch-up recently as the gaskets had compressed further.

Pete

[bigbikerrick]

I wrote a tutorial for the older V7, there should be a few tips for you.  Double click on the photos for the text.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548

Nice looking assistant you got there Sign 216! 
Rick.

[Kev m]

OH,
note to self, you don't really want a Small Block..

Well if you change your mind it seems that the V9 and V7III hemi heads don't require a retorque.

[n3303j]

<SNIP>
Anyway, I knew I was in over my head. As it stands right now, all the
bolts/nuts are currently loose on the left side.
Jim

From my FWIW Department:

When doing a head re-torque NEVER loosed all the bolts! Doing so will allow parts to shift out of original location. It will upset established seals and parts relationships.

Using the specified tightening pattern, loosen the first fastener about 1/8  turn. Then using a properly calibrated torque wrench bring that fastener smoothly and slowly back to the specified torque.

Repeat this procedure for each fastener in the specified torque sequence.

You will preserve the original relationship between parts. You will produce the desired results.

[rocker59]

I use a torque wrench so infrequently, that I don't use the clicker type.

The one time I did, I stripped a bolt.

Much prefer the old timey beam type torque wrench.

[oldbike54]

I use a torque wrench so infrequently, that I don't use the clicker type.

The one time I did, I stripped a bolt.

Much prefer the old timey beam type torque wrench.

  :1: Unless you are willing to spend the money for a Snap On or similar high end torque wrench , a beam type is much more reliable .

 Dusty

[sign216]

Nice looking assistant you got there Sign 216! 
Rick.

I say she's worth the price.

Unlike my exwife....

[Sasquatch Jim]

 Your toreue wrench is not wonkey, you are wonkey.  If you are using a click type set the click below the required torque.  Tighten in the proper pattern.  When done reset the torque wrench to the required setting and torque again in the proper pattern.  When done, retorque again in the required pattern.  Now go ride.

[Antietam Classic Cycle]

  :1: Unless you are willing to spend the money for a Snap On or similar high end torque wrench , a beam type is much more reliable .

 Dusty

Don't agree. My 10 year old Craftsman clicker consistently checks out within 3% of setting when I have it checked/calibrated each year. <shrug>

[oldbike54]

Don't agree. My 10 year old Craftsman clicker consistently checks out within 3% of setting when I have it checked/calibrated each year. <shrug>

 No argument from me , the older Craftsman tools were fine . But more and more really cheap clickers are showing up and aren't very reliable .

 Dusty

[Triple Jim]

Much prefer the old timey beam type torque wrench.

I've been wondering why everyone seems to have the click type.  All I've ever owned is the beam type, so it's hard to compare, but there's just about no way it can go out of calibration.  If you somehow bend it out of calibration, the pointer won't read zero with no torque, so you'll know it.  You just have to understand the pivoting handle if you want to be really accurate.  Also, it's accurate throughout its range, none of this stuff about not using it at the low end, etc..

The only drawback I know of is that you have to be able to see the scale while you're torquing.  There was a time or two I had to place a mirror so I could see it, in some odd location.

[guzzisteve]

I wonder what happened? Did the OP just tarp it and walk away, or did he get some help?

[mtiberio]

get a torque wrench that deflects, not one that clicks.

[Kev m]

I don't even own a beam type torque wrench.

Been using nothing but click-types since the 90s.

[Don G]

Yeah try torqueing the head bolts on your 460 Ford with a beam type.  DonG

[n3303j]

...or winding up 170 ft/lb on a flywheel while watching the needle. At least that click is very positive.

[Bill Hagan]

I wonder what happened? Did the OP just tarp it and walk away, or did he get some help?

He was here over l(EST) lunch hour, Steve.

As for the sub-thread on torque wrenches, beams are fine, IMO, for every Guzzi application I've encountered.  OTOH, I do avoid difficult encounters.   

Bill

[guzzisteve]

He was here over l(EST) lunch hour, Steve.

As for the sub-thread on torque wrenches, beams are fine, IMO, for every Guzzi application I've encountered.  OTOH, I do avoid difficult encounters.   

Bill

What? He's from ATL area?

[Bill Hagan]

What? He's from ATL area?

By "here," I meant this forum, Steve.

Think OP's from Idaho.  Pretty much same as Atlanta.   

Bill