Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kiwi_Roy on September 15, 2021, 12:35:54 AM
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I thought It might be better to split this off into a different topic.
While working on the RH switchgear I found the return throttle cable had rusted through the inner core.
(https://i.ibb.co/RBW3FJT/DSCN0968.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MGLcvJk)
This bike is about two and a half years and 27,000 km, it spends its life in a warm dry underground basement although it does get ridden in the rain.
Today I took the broken cable off, it was actually rusted through in two spots, I pulled both ends out and laid them alongside the outer, there is 18 inches missing so the chances of removing the broken section are not very good.
I called the dealer to see if they had new cables, of course they didn't and couldn't tell me what the delivery would be so I decided to get the materials needed and make my own.
The cable was completely dry, it broke at a spot under the tank where its a straight run, rusted through actually, I figure the water was just laying there eating away the inner, I just hope the the other cable lasts while I make up new ones, I plan to ride it with just the spring return until I make up the new cables.
I feel this wouldn't have happened if the factory had added some lube, obviously whoever made the cable didn't bother.
Its a little difficult getting oil into these cables but I suggest it's worth spending some time doing it, the alternative is $60 + tax for each cable
I'm not worried about the clutch cable it gets lubed on a regular basis.
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Most modern cables are Teflon lined i.e. they don't need lubrication to function any lubrication will provide corrosion protection only.
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Most modern cables are Teflon lined i.e. they don't need lubrication to function any lubrication will provide corrosion protection only.
MG Cycle confirms that OEM cables are not Teflon coated (I have an email from them).
I’ve seen others say “most are Teflon-coated.” Is that an assumption or legitimate, because I’ve instead seen “some cables” cited more often.
To lubricate or not to lubricate for fear of damage seems like something we shouldn’t just be assuming.
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Most modern cables are Teflon lined i.e. they don't need lubrication to function any lubrication will provide corrosion protection only.
Thats what I thought, apparently Guzzi didn't get the memo or their supplier short changed them.
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I took the old cable to show the dealer Service manager, he seemed quite interested as did his sidekick.
Although its out of warrantee he gave me a generous discount on a new pair, in the meantime I will probably make a pair and decide if I want the OEM ones when they come in.
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The best thing I’ve found for cable lube is cable lube for mig welders. It is conductive so on carbs where the cable goes into the top if you get excited and use a little too much it’ll short out the spark plug. It’s not sposed to hurt any kind of liner, which it doesn’t. Usually comes in a half pint can so I use the balloon method to get it in the cable which is why it’s easy to use too much. Course on injection the cable terminates outside of the intake tract so it’s not a problem there.
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Making up cables is a most useful skill - do you plan using stainless wire? And Teflon lined sheaths? Or the easier to solder & cheaper ordinary steel? If you intend lubing them, you mIght as well go old school & just use the steel ones.
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Making up cables is a most useful skill - do you plan using stainless wire? And Teflon lined sheaths? Or the easier to solder & cheaper ordinary steel? If you intend lubing them, you mIght as well go old school & just use the steel ones.
I only use lube on older cables, not when they are new and not in need of it. As they age, water and dirt can create a need for some kind of cleaner/lube.
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Making up cables is a most useful skill - do you plan using stainless wire? And Teflon lined sheaths? Or the easier to solder & cheaper ordinary steel? If you intend lubing them, you mIght as well go old school & just use the steel ones.
I purchased the only cable readily available, steel not lined.
I thought I might be able to use the old nipples but they were just lead or similar obviously cast on with a mold, just turned to mush with heat.
The other nipples I have are brass or similar with a grub screw, the guy where I bought them said just apply some red Loktight and they never come off
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If I don’t have any I make my own out of the shank of a bolt. Drill the hole for the cable prior to cutting the length, it’s easier to hold while drilling
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If I don’t have any I make my own out of the shank of a bolt. Drill the hole for the cable prior to cutting the length, it’s easier to hold while drilling
John,
A steel bolt or do you use brass
What do you use for solder, acid core?
Do you fan out the strands to get a better grip?
Counter bore the cable hole?
Its a long time since I made my own cables.
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A steel bolt, grade 2 but any will work with plating removed.I countersink the holes which need to be a hair larger than the cable to give the solder room to flow. I don’t splay over the ends, I used to but it’s not necessary and you have to trim it to fit in it’s slot on the throttle. I use silver solder with its flux and an oxyacetylene jeweler torch just cause I have that stuff. So I’m not sure what flux you’d use with tin/lead solder but I’d probly try acid based