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Does the rear gearbox needle bearing use an inner race? I found the correct size comes with and without the inner race. The parts book does not show an inner race and Guzziology does not specify. 40mm 55 mm 17mm skf nao list both types with the same dimensions. I am rebuilding the gearbox on the 2000 Quota. After finding all the other bearings in poor condition from a life time in Florida sand and silt. The input pinion taper bearing failed and I replaced them. Then big seal leaks, due to my own fault in installation. I figure if I am going to do this repair over, I should do the whole gearbox. Worst part is getting the cover off. Guzziology say's to push it out from the inside the front opening with the pinion housing out. Any other suggestions on popping the cover off?
I just ordered this one for a Jackal I working on.https://www.ebay.com/itm/165712097538I've bought them on Amazon before as well.To remove the cover I use my small three-legged puller with the legs reversed so that the tips point outward. I hook the tips under the splines, center arbor against the axle spacer. Fiddly but works every time.
Found all the bearings and seals on Amazon. $93.00 delivered. Read somewhere to drop a socket into the hub for the puller screw to push against.
The 2000 Jackal rear drive I'm resealing now has gaskets and so did the '98 EV rear drive I did a few months ago. Never found one that just had sealer.
https://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical_bevel-box.htmThis may help
If the big bearing is seated fully in the cover, the inner race does not seat against the shaft flange on the opposite side. It has .050 inch clearance. Allowing the shaft with the crown gear to push away from the pinion gear as it is pushed through the inner bearing race toward the cover side. Increasing clearance.
You are correct that you should load the crown wheel away from the pinion when checking contact patch. But you don't want to introduce a preload on the big bearing when it is in service.I'm also used to finding the big bearing being an intimate fit on the ring gear and in the housing cover. None of the assembly is floating.
The "brass thrust bearing" is only there for the roller needle cage, nothing else. If you add more than the original one, the outer race will be protruding from the housing. I'm puzzled as to what you're trying to fix. Assembled the way they come from the factory, a properly shimmed and maintained rear drive will last 200k miles or more.
The brass thrust bearing is there to stop the crown gear and the pinion gears from being too tight or loose. The two gears are not suppose to be the side thrust stop when meshed. The inner race on the big gear and the thrust ring are.